Chain grinding. I'm an idiot, matching the file shape

I have been doing this wrong this whole time.

[@timberandtools]

Makes a lot of sense! I don’t have a lot of time on the grinder but I’m messing around a bit now I have one

[@SawChainTheories]

I'm hopeless with a grind for the same reason, I don't really use it and the grinder I have is a bit crap. Hopefully now that I have the basics I might use it more

[@timberandtools]

@@SawChainTheories I was once not as proficient with a hand file so hopefully practicing will make improvement

[@elpolaco7654]

No, you are not. 🙂 Your comments have also been very helpful to me in better understanding the variables that in practice accompany the creation of cutter geometry and the impact of it on the results obtained especially in hardwood. I've certainly written several times in comments here (YT) about the importance of how low the grinding wheel goes. I've also written about 2 file/grinder systems designed for mere mortals, i.e. one _round file/rounded wheel_ system and at the moment the other: Hexa. Hexa has the advantage of being simpler and there are not many options there for fiddling. The traditional system, due to the rounded edge of the grinding wheel (or the file), allows more fiddling, especially if the grinder is equipped with a tilting or sliding vise. To get the (top plate) cutting angle equal to the arm tilt angle (e.g. 60 degrees) at the point where the grinding wheel first touches the top plate, you need to lower the wheel so that its "edge" where the flat part begins is in contact with the top plate. Phew, that was hard for me to describe in words. I hope it is understandable, one good drawing would be certainly better. I write about the point of contact because the grinding wheel, unlike the file, is, well, round. This "feature" is used in grinders with a sliding vise, where the offset makes it possible to achieve a greater side plate angle and a changing cutting angle. That is, similar to tilting the file or tilting the vise. PS I noticed that the heel rises when the wheel touches the cutter. I think it is possible to adjust the clamp plates so that the cutter link will not tilt. It works for me with a little patience.

[@SawChainTheories]

@@elpolaco7654 I have reached a point where I think I could square file blindfolded, but can't use a grinder. This is a huge step in getting better The chain vise moving is just one of many problems with this grinder, I now have to manually spin the wheel to get it moving when I turn it on. It's time for a new grinder. I'm looking at the Ama Maxx Pro

[@elpolaco7654]

@@SawChainTheories If I physically could, I think I could “fix” your grinder. Isn't it the standard Chinese version of 511A? Personally, I would not opt for the Maxx Pro. Too weird. If I really needed it, I could electrically change the direction of rotation for myself on a “regular” grinder - I'm not afraid of sparks.

[@nseric1233]

Fixing the clamp on the grinder is very easy. Take it apart and put thinner washers in it. They come setup for .080 chain and are sloppy with normal sized ones. On mine I took out the thinner of the two washers and .063 chain barely fits now but it works great on .050 which I sharpen often.