Changing Brakes and Rotors on Audi Q7 (2005 - 2015) 2007 upgrade

My Q7 had terrible brake wobble when we bought it. Swapping in new brake pads and rotors and it is as good as new. Maybe even better as we put on sport rotors with a bit more stopping power.
The project is not too hard but the one exception was the two bolts that hold on the caliper for the rotor change. On my car they were so stuck I broke two sockets and ended up needing a impact wrench socket of hardened steel and a large breaker bar. But with that out of the way the rest of the work went quite smoothly.

[@elvismendoza8060]

I just did this job on my q7, and to think i was gonna pay a shop 1k just to replace rotors and brake pads 🤣 spend 73 dollars in brake pads and 120 on front rotors and the job is so easy! the guy in the shop wanted to replace all rotors when only the front ones were the damaged ones crazy how some shops just wanna rip you off

[@FarReachFR]

So true. And solid work Elvis. Getting it done!

[@DavidJones-rv5kw]

Im in the same boat they told me 2,600 for my Audi q7

[@AutoTechWorld_DIY]

Great video. I'm about to change the rotors on an Audi the first time. That makes it a lot easier than I thought. Thanks for posting the video.

[@cryptol6842]

Great video although you should make some few steps to make your future replacement way easier. When you push the pistons back, you should open brake fluid reservoir. Fluid can overflow so just check the reservoir while pushing pistons back or open bleeder valve to remove old fluid from caliper.. Its good to clean this holding pin and this metal clip with e.g. sandpaper. Then put some grease on it (e.g. ATE Plastilube). These pins can really stuck. Same with pads. You should put some grease between pistons and brake pads surface. Change your brake fluid for better results.

[@jeffsloane8628]

This video is great please add tools used to the description. For help I saw 1) Small flay blade screw driver. 2) 13 mm socket 3) Large flat blade screwdriver 4)Another large screwdriver or wedge to hold pad back when compressing pistons 5) ?? mm socket for 2x caliper bolts 6) t50 torx driver 7) String or hook to hold caliper

[@Salsa_Shark]

I had an absolute bitch of a time getting the pins out, front and back. I’m assuming it was a long while since the brakes were changed, but Great Scott, I am not happy.

[@odanne29]

Awesome man, just what i need to see, have a Q7 -07 too..

[@Russellrks]

After doing mine the same as yours, I also believe the rotor is on the wrong side. The cooling vanes are directional and they should be grabbing air as the rotor turns. I was told to stick a small screw driver in the vanes on top of the rotor and it should stand straight up for non directional rotors and it should lean forward towards the front of the car for directional rotors. Other than that, your video gave me the confidence to do the job myself. Thank you!

[@FarReachFR]

Hi Russell, thanks for the kind words!! As for the vein direction, as you see here is correct. If you did it like me, you are in good company. The veins should angle back away from the direction of travel. There are lots of references on the topic, but I like the image layout of this one for simplicity. www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6515 Also if you look closely you can see the original Audi vein direction at 7:16 matches the vein direction of the installed rotors. And as an added plus, the manufacturer sticker can be almost made out at 7:43. It reads " Front Pass Side. In any case, directional veins tilt opposite the direction of rotation to get the most powerful effect. (you could think of it as pumping the air/heat out of the rotor.) for a visual reference of this effect in action, kzbin.info/www/bejne/e5TXoJmgadqqrM0 shows the centrifugal power difference between trying to "scoop in" versus "fling out". Hope this is of interest and Thanks again.

[@scoobyflash9768]

Great detail and good camera focus. I hate when I can't see small details in videos. I'm doing a 2018, but I think this is very similar.

[@garethschoorl5719]

Thanks for this, watched this and it massively helped me do mine today. I did have to laugh (sorry) about the discussions you gave about which way up to place the oafs for the sensors given you can't do anything to alter it. But really useful and thank you so much for posting

[@ExpertaGroup]

very nice post ****** TOP excellent Job

[@bryanhill894]

Great video. Thanks

[@FarReachFR]

Thank Bryan, Glad to help

[@mattscheele4954]

Best practice is clean down the hub before fitting the new rotor….

[@MichaelCosky]

I had a mechanic come to my house to do a brake change. The right front brake was different than the left front. The brake pad wear sensor was part of the ABS wheel speed cable harness. There is no clip to remove the brake pad sensor. Have you ever seen that before? Now I am driving around having to look at the indicator that the break needs to be changed because I cannot find an ABS wheel speed harness that has the brake pad wear sensor hard wired into it. ???

[@MrB33happy]

Great video sir thank you

[@FarReachFR]

Thanks and welcome!

[@mickyanic5100]

Thanks mate!

[@FarReachFR]

You're welcome!

[@123ruls]

Did you reuse the two caliper bolts? And the brake disc screw that holds the rotors in place?

[@FarReachFR]

Yes

[@tareqzakarneh221]

good job

[@user-jo7ry9cq3c]

プレミアムSUVの頂点に位置する高性能4WD

[@anthonymcfarlane3014]

I just noticed you made a mistake I e made before. Those front rotors are directional the middle vanes are for cooling that right side rotor belongs on the the left side.

[@FarReachFR]

Hi Mark, I have good news for you. If you did it the same as me, you did it correct. Directional veins on rotors are designed to arc (or point) opposite of the direction of rotation. In this case the main video is of the passenger side and it is arcing to the rear of the car. Which is the way to go. Also you can check it against the rotors that were removed as well. Also with the vein pumps arcing aft. So no worries, you did it right.

[@jjhunter01]

So wish way is the right way I just don’t want those rotors to be screaming??! Thank You

[@arkjiang]

what are the 4 metal cylinders on the brake pads ? I see one was quite close to hitting the rotor on my car

[@FarReachFR]

It sounds like you are talking about the pistons that squeeze the brake pad down on the rotor to stop the car. Those pistons should always have a brake pad between it and the rotor. -- Funny story, when I was a teenager, I ran my brakes until I used up all the pad, and then a burned through the pad backing, and then started using the piston itself to brake (Very bad).... and then I wore through that and the system popped/exploded. All the brake fluid gushed out and then I had ZERO brakes. I could not stop. It was like in the movies where someone cuts a brake line. Boy that was really really bad of me. total neglect. :) dont let that happen to you. Good luck!

[@Oscar99929]

Just a question - is there a torque value for the rotor bolt and / or the caliper bolts?

[@notebender]

I didn't see a torque wrench for the caliper?

[@edwardramos190]

Are the brake pads the same for 6cylinders and 8cylinder models?

[@johnkay4952]

Did you change the sensors or reused it. Does a different brand sensor with any brand? Can I reuse my sensors?

[@FarReachFR]

I changed out the sensors for brand new ones. (they came with the brake pad kit). Now to your question of "Can I reuse my sensors" the answer is Yes - so long as they are not worn through. If the sensors are still intact and fully in cased in their original rubber/plastic housings then you can reuse them. But, if the sensors have worn to the point where you can see exposed metal, then you should not reuse them. Another easy way to tell, is if your Audi is throwing a code that says you need to change the brakes. The way it knows your pads are worn is that the rotors are cutting into the sensors. If that has happened, then you need new sensors. Once they throw that code, they are basically toast. But if you changed your brakes prior to the low wear pad sensor being triggered, then you can still reuse your sensors just fine.

[@johnkay4952]

@@FarReachFR thank you

[@brettneuberger6466]

Wow. You made that look so easy, I’m almost tempted to give it a shot on my Q5. Think it’d be similar?

[@FarReachFR]

Yes, I think it would be similar. Brakes and rotors are generally not too bad to work with. Biggest thing is just getting the set screw out of the rotor. If you get that, you are good to go. .

[@myathletesbody]

Did you get a squishy pedal after this change of pads and rotors? Or did you also bleed the brakes ?

[@FarReachFR]

No squishy pedal, so long as you dont introduce air into the system. I do this by compressing the pistons while still on the Jeep. You ca see this technique in my neon brake pad change video. I use a screw driver. But if you do it the old school way, then yes, you will need to bleed the brakes if they feel squishy.

[@khairulcharles]

Hi sir... are they using 6 pot caliper?

[@FarReachFR]

Yes.

[@everyone_knows_itsbutterst7808]

The tort or bolt is a T50 correct?

[@wafi3187]

18z brembo brakes

[@kalboJeff]

Did you have to activate Jack mode before lifting your car up on a floor jack?

[@FarReachFR]

No. I did not. but I also lifted the Q7 from the control arm so there was no way for the wheel to over extend.

[@gabrieldominguez1398]

How much NW for the calipers?

[@ashleytrover3157]

is the a TDI or a gas engine? I have a 2012 q7 TDI. was told I need a heavy duty rotor and pad compared to the gas engine model. wanted to see if you had experience. they are twice as expensive.

[@FarReachFR]

Hi, Mine is a gas engine s-line. While I dont have a TDI, From what I can tell, the same brakes fit on both gas s-line and diesel. Also looking at the curb weight, while the TDI does weigh more, it is only 155 lbs more than the gas s-line version. That is minor. Its like you carrying a single passenger.

[@olegk455]

Have you seen the size of those six piston calipers? Just buy a Zimmerman brand rotors from your store of choice and some HAWK pads of your choice and you are good to go.

[@IsraelSuede]

What is the trick to remove the pin from the caliper. Because it is not as easy as shown. The pin is seized.

[@AndreAguiar]

I’m on the same boat. He made it look so easy. I’m over an hour in and I’m still on the first wheel with a frozen pin. Have tried lubricating, heating and wacking it with a mini sledge. Not budging at all.

[@garyalcorn3831]

Use a small socket just big enough to fit over the bolt and use with extension piece and hammer

[@AndreAguiar]

Tried that and no go. Not even with some heat. Had to bring it to my mechanic. All good now.

[@garyalcorn3831]

@@AndreAguiar next time plenty wd40 turn wheel full lock left so give u space to reach in hammer there then use hammer chisel in middle to push pin out is a Bastard everything on my q7 2006 everything rusted and seized even the brake disc holder screws hammer and chisel on that to lol

[@giopaps1]

I’m about to do this to my 07 Q7. Are they factory rotors or aftermarket? If aftermarket did you have any squeaking issues or any issues. Was debating going aftermarket v. Factory

[@FarReachFR]

Mine are aftermarket. drilled and slotted. No issues on mine. Stopping power is improved as well. I am sure there can be variance though depending on which aftermarket parts are used and brake pad composition. All that said, I would go aftermarket again if I had the choice again, simply because it has been good to me and cost much less money than factory OEM pieces. it was a win-win. Good Luck!

[@giopaps1]

Appreciate the quick response and input. What brand did you put on I think I will do the same cause the Audi ones are crazy in price

[@FarReachFR]

@@giopaps1 I purchased mine from BrakeMotive. The exact ones I purchased are discontinued but these are similar. (4 drills versus 3 drills). I can't say there are the exact same though. about $135, for front rotors and pads and sensors. www.ebay.com/itm/Front-350-mm-Brake-Rotors-And-Ceramic-Pads-Audi-Q7-VW-Touareg-Porsche-Cayenne/391785368623?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[@giopaps1]

Perfect. Thanks for the info. Appreciate it.

[@DavidJones-rv5kw]

Does this work 4 the Q7 13??

[@fponceci]

What about brakes oil?? Do we need it?

[@FarReachFR]

For Brake fluid, if you use this technique and compress the pistons, (and not bleed out the fluid) then no additional fluid is needed. If you do bleed the brakes or release the brake fluid, then yes addition would be needed to bring the level back to proper spec. But this version is faster and no need to add or clean up brake fluid this way.

[@OffRoad-jh1do]

What size M (triple box ) socket takes the rotor off? Thanks

[@FarReachFR]

I dont recall the size off hand, but I do remember using a TORX and not Triple Square in this instance.

[@OffRoad-jh1do]

@@FarReachFR Thanks

[@olegk455]

Its T-40 Torx people whoever is wondering.