Changing Citroen BX Xantia XM Hydraulic Suspension Spheres Xantia 1.9 TD SX

[@WorivpuqloDMogh]

Seems like such an easy fix. No hassle with springs and struts. Citroën was ahead of its time with this suspension

[@spidiq8]

No problem, your english is far better than my Portugese, trust me, :) Yes, lowering the suspension depressurizes the spheres, the only one you have to depressurize manually is the accumulator in the engine bay which involves slackening a bolt whilst running the engine with suspension in it's lowest setting.

[@spidiq8]

I ran mine for several years, it was an excellent car, very comfortable, good performance, decent fuel economy, (mine was a Turbo diesel), nothing to complain about, you have to remember to sit and wait for the suspension to raise before driving away on the first start of the day but otherwise just like any other car to operate.

[@bokicar1]

Hi spidiq8, I just changed front pair of spheres today and car now drives fine. I am sorry I didnt make the video of it as it would be very useful as your video is. BTW one sphere unscrewed easy but second not a budge. But after light chisel action it worked. Many thanks for your video and email.

[@chrsiaubert]

Thanks very much for that.That's who I got them off.Set of six delievered to Jersey for a £160. Hope they're are all ok.I was going to have a go myself but some forums say that the accumulator and back centre can be tricky.

[@spidiq8]

@buckegit Accumulator sphere is dead front of the engine behind the radiator, if you delve down there you literally cannot miss it, it's the big green round thing same as the suspension units, the bit it screws into is where the 12mm bleed screw is.

[@MiaOnline]

Thanks for the video, it helped me a lot and now i already changed the spheres of my car, thanks again

[@spidiq8]

@MrMike657 If you watch the video from 2:18 onwards you'll hear the procedure for depressurising the system, written it is: Start the engine, height adjuster to max, rear of car on ramps or over a pit, break the seal on the rear units, (both) with the wrench but only 1/2 turn max, set height adjuster to min, alow it to sink fully, let it run a little to make sure it's settled, engine off, unscrew and remove the unit, clean refit the new one with seal, tighten hand tight only.

[@spidiq8]

Electrics are not my forte on vehicles but i'd say it has to be a fairly straightforward connection problem, speakers are connected by twin core wires which correspond to the rear of the stereo. Check your wiring to the speakers and then locate the corresponding wires on the rear of the stereo, if both connected check the wires for continuity / breaks, hope this helps

[@spidiq8]

@f1carl Start engine, lift to highest, LOOSEN about half a turn ONLY, (rear units), set to lowest setting with engine running, switch off then unscrew them fully using a plastic bag to catch the unit and any fluid. If you lose a deal you'll need to check the level and refill after you've replaced all the spheres and cycled the suspension a few times up and down to re-pressurize the system. This is done in the big square box under the bonnet. Hope this helps a bit.

[@spidiq8]

@glup2glup It is if the diaphragm inside is ruined, also, recharging them is not straighforward as a valve needs to be fitted to the sphere, nor is the equipment required cheap, easy or straighforward and the spheres do have a finite lifespan, the rear ones on this were totally shot! For a home mechanic completely changing the spheres is the easier, more guaranteed option.

[@spidiq8]

@ash7990 You would need to break the seal by cracking them open while the system is under pressure, get the car up on ramps or over a pit, set the suspension to highest with engine running and using the proper removal tool, crack the seal on both, no more than a full turn on each though, then depressurise the system as per the manual and remove as normal. If you cannot move them with the proper tool and system under pressure then a specialist garage will need to address it. hope this is helpful.

[@chrsiaubert]

The job went ok.easier to get them off than I thought.Thing is I didn't change the anti sink as GSF didn't send the rubber seal that goes inside,they said they dont do them anymore.Would you know who does? Thanks again youv'e been a great help

[@spidiq8]

I'm not 100% sure what part you're referring to, is this in the rear portion which holds nitrogen gas or the front which screws into the suspension unit? I'm pretty sure it'll be some kind of flow valve system for smoothing the action, like a motorbike fork assembly, they have springs and oil for damping but the oil is forced through holes in a damper assembly to cushion the motion

[@spidiq8]

@scottylad79 No video for the others. They have an Accumulator sphere, front of engine and a 6th one mid way along the axle at the rear, (I think this is for levelling / rear ride height purposes). This one requires a 9mm spanner, or flare nut wrench, if a spanner, a very good quality one!, undo the pipe going INTO the sphere FIRST like a brake line, then unscrew the sphere. Accumulator is bled with a 15mm? if memory serves, bolt then unscrewed much like the others, read the manual for procedure

[@spidiq8]

Accumulator is fiddly but only due to access. Self levelling one in the rear centre is easy you just need to remember to undo the brake union going INTO the sphere before unscrewing the sphere or it will break and you'll be replacing the brake pipe, a 9mm flare nut wrench is your friend there. The spheres are great, easily as good as OEM but (as you've noted) way cheaper. Label each box if you're fitting them, the four corners are the same but the others both differ. Saves fumbling underneath!

[@spidiq8]

Hey, it's a practicalities thing, the cars 15 yrs old and it's a box on wheels which gets me from A to B and allows me to carry stuff, my passion on on the 2 wheel side of things, having been a mechanic i do as little crawling under cars as possible these days, it's worth about £600 whether waxoyled or not :) Re the chisels, I just don't like the idea, like hitting a hand grenade with a hammer for fun.!!!!

[@spidiq8]

If you were determined enough, then yes, you could blank off the hydraulics and replace the system with macpherson struts, coilovers or similar but you'd need to fabricate mounting points and source appropriate units, the time and expense would be great for what would ultimately be a much worse ride, I cant imagine why anyone would. The hydraulic system is good and very reliable and easy to maintain and you'll never find better suspension on any car for comfort.

[@spidiq8]

@magialogica Glad to be of help Carlos, and all the better if it encourages you to do the job yourself and save some money in the process, garage labour fees are pricey indeed, if they're just changed you should be good for 2-3 years though. Certainly don't be put off, the only special tool you need is the wrench you can buy or make them easily enough, only thing to reiterate, be careful under the car and use ramps to raise it.

[@spidiq8]

Well I can't pretend to be all knowledgeable about the internal workings of the spehere buti'd guess it's for damping assistance to restrict and measure flow of fluid and maybe also to prevent the inner seal from blowing out under the pressure of the gas? I'd be interested to see the inner workings, have you posted up a video of your modified one or have any pics?

[@spidiq8]

I'm assuming the red one on the floor above and to the left? That's a Stilson wrench, often referred to as a Monkey Wrench. It has wide enough jaws and enough flexibity to grip the mounting point of the rear spheres seen at 4.52, it might not be necessary but because all the crud underneath coats things the first few turns after breaking the sphere off under pressure can be stiff and you can fracture the brake pipe which you'd then have to replace. Hope that helps, fronts are much easier

[@HGreen-le4nc]

well done and thank you spidiq8 on all your helpful advise. kind regards.

[@spidiq8]

+H. Green You're welcome, hope it'd useful to you

[@HGreen-le4nc]

yes indeedy thank you. merry christmas and a happy new year.

[@spidiq8]

Thanks, you too

[@ARCANOE]

Dear Gentleman: Thank you for the video, is amazing, thanks for share you experience, i got a question for you, would youn please tell me when i must replace the espheres?. Thank you.

[@scottylad79]

great video for the spheres but have u got one for the 5th and sixth sphere`s. i have a Citroen Xantia 1.9 TD LX estate 2 wheel drive and they all need replaced. if its 4 wheel drive do u have 6 spheres and 2 wheel drive only 5 spheres. thanks in advance

[@chrsiaubert]

Hi, me again .thanks again youv'e been a great help.Trouble is you can read so many comments you don't know where you are.All my spheres were changed six years ago (10,000 miles) the car has only done 27000.reading your other comments i think the fronts are ok.On the push test the backs are hard.Can I just change them and not touch the antisink or the accumulator?

[@videoeditors]

Hi, great video, but I am not touching it myself. Could you advise what is the average cost to replace all spheres in Xantia HDI? Thank you.

[@spidiq8]

@videoeditors I honestly couldn't give a precise amount, it depends on labour costs plus the garage getting the parts. bear in mind that a Citroen garage will insist on OEM, twice the price per sphere of aftermarket, they put their percentage on the part before they add labour which can be anywhere these days from 35 to 60GBP per hour. You're probably looking at 2 to 3 hours for changing all 6 spheres with no hiccups encountered, maybe a little longer if changing LHM fluid.

[@totaltwit]

the bleed valve, where is it? a pik would be good, on each sphere top or just one on the pump? I think I missed the undo the bleed a turn with the engine running procedure. So is it, set to low height position, let the engine run for a minute and then with engine still running do we loosen the air bleed? sounds messy.

[@spidiq8]

Technically, they are, they have no cover on the rear ones but considering some people remove these thing with a cold chisel and lump hammer, i'd love to see the flung up rock that could pierce one, :) They are incredibly thick, I've owned a BX and the Xantia and family members have had the GS, CX and various others throughout the years, I've never yet known a sphere to give out, ever

[@spidiq8]

I believe so, as far as i'm aware a lot of the BX range didn't have he anti sink, just the 4 for the roadwheels and the accumulator.

[@ash7990]

Cant remeber if I have already commented or not, as I know I have seen this video before. Great video anyway. What should I do if I cannot remove the rear spheres? Its on a newer Xantia (year 2000) but the rear spheres havnt been changed for absolutely ages - like 7 years + and they are seized!

[@spidiq8]

Not at all, the most complex bit is the combined hydraulic system, but it's reliable and with a Haynes manual and commonsense approach no harder than any car. Go for it, they're a great car, very comfortable.

[@spidiq8]

@f1carl Sorry, no tutorial on that one, however, hydraulic sphere and pipes aside, it shouldn't be anymore complicated than changing something like a macpherson strut

[@spidiq8]

@natntaz1 Depends exactly what you mean, the hydraulic Citroens are supposed to be bouncy and float, if the suspension doesn't move when you press on it the spheres are shot, if it travels and bounces it should be OK, maybe post a video so we can see what it's doing?

[@spidiq8]

Another comment without explanation? I'm not sure what you think is wrong here. I show the whole process and explain it quite clearly, do you really want to see a blow by blow on every single sphere? Bear in mind too I don't have a cameraman, I have to film and do the job myself which is tricky enough and impossible to film me doing work in any awkward areas.

[@MrMike657]

Hi Sir,On this video you send something about depressurizing the car but you did not tell which bolt or nut should be remove or doing it with the normal suspention lever.can you please give me a little on that side

[@abraxis6080]

You should never use 'grease' when refitting a sphere seal - always coat the seal with some LHM fluid or LDS (For Citroen C5 & C6)! Failing to do so will potentially increase the risk of contaminating the complete hydraulic system, which will be very expensive to fix. Citroen are very clear on this.

[@spidiq8]

To just do the spheres, no, you may have to top up the reservoir, (which is huge so it stands a lot of use), the spheres are self pressurising, if you've lost a lot of fluid, a corroded pipe for example you will have to bleed it through but it really does the job itself, the only one you bleed off like the brakes is on the accumulator sphere in front of the engine, the system feeds the brake calipers too, these are bled normally but again you only do these if the calipers or pipes are affected.

[@bokicar1]

Hi spidiq8 and others that read this, Wandered if you can help. I have xsantia and recently ride became bouncy, and its bouncy on all 4 wheels. I thought may be the problem with suspension sphere or two, but it wouldnt be on all 4 wheels at the same time, would it? Hope you would have some suggestion. Regards,

[@oldschoolcars96]

Hi there, i am a potential new owner to acitroen bx 14 re with suspension problems, is the process quite similar, are there any dramatic differences betwen the bx system and the xantia system? cheers :)

[@spidiq8]

@videoeditors I'd have a rethink on doing the job yourself, it's really not as complicated as you might think but i understand fully if you're wary, after all it is the hydraulic system. At the least however, i'd recommend you purchase your spheres from GSF car parts, (google) and have the garage fit them, you'll save lots and their aftermarket spheres are every bit as good as OEM. Check with your preferred garage on their hourly rate, if they'll fit provided parts and estimate. Hope this helps.

[@CSSSOLIVEIRA]

Hey, very nice video, very helpful. It's very simple! I live in Brazil and here almost all the Xantias have bad spheres. They are very expensive to change. Before starting the change, does the car need to go to lowest position? Or did you change them during normal position? Thanks.

[@Monstermagicmayhem]

hey bud i couldnt see or hear what the other tool was after ur removal tool/strap wrench? thanks mate

[@bababooey7576]

how often do these need replacing? mileage? are these things just over complicated suspension junk or were they actually a decent invention?

[@spidiq8]

@CSSSOLIVEIRA Put to highest position, (rear on stands or over a pit), slightly loosen the sphere while it's under pressure but only a thread or so, with engine running, set to lowest and once settled fully, switch off engine and remove fully, be careful on last few threads just in case the diaphragm has split as it will have a lot of fluid in.

[@bjerina]

The floor underneath the car looks completely rotten and in very bad shape ( at app. 3.40 min mark) Is it really as bad as it seems? Does it pass MOT?

[@spidiq8]

@KleenezeDon Could you clarify that statement please? If I am missing anything essential i'm unaware of the fact and certainly cannot rectify if I don't know!

[@spidiq8]

@negermord This has also been mentioned by other people and I do in fact say this in the video, this being the method I used, check 2:16, you can also utilise a hefty stilson wrench to hold the hydraulic fitting while undoing the sphere.

[@spidiq8]

If it started before replacing the spheres it's likely something else entirely then, this would only become apparent after replacing spheres that were solid. First thing to do is try to pinpoint the source and ascertain the type of noise to get an idea what it might be. A rear seat passenger willing to hang out the side windows is useful here. If it only happens when turning and it's at the front could be bearings, (squeak/rumble), CV joint, (Click/knock), even a loose wheel, if rear cont.......

[@spidiq8]

..Cont from second: to settle the suspension and work the linkages, (you should do this at least once a month BTW, just once or twice), check the brakes carefully on a slow test drive afterwards, any hesitation in operation, bleed again. Final mention, lower the car to Lo, switch off, place to normal ride height position, start and time the lift, if longer than 12 seconds to normal height and accumulator cutoff, this is another pointer to the accumulator needing swapped.

[@yorrickwi]

hey i have got one of these spheres and i wanted to make a demo model so i drilled a hole in the gas compartment and then one in the fluid compartment but i had a question in the bottom is this valve type thing is it like a shck absorber or something with big and small holes to iron out bumps or is it just a complicated looking hole it is really weird :P

[@spidiq8]

@thierryanna Glad to be of help

[@szmajh]

hi xantia owner here. recently i noticed that the rear of my car is more bouncy than it used to be. on speed bumps it really shows a great deal. rear only. wondering if spheres need replacing or it's other problem?? Thanks mate! Cheers!

[@johnlakey7451]

Hi The front suspension on the 1.8i auto petrol I've inherited is very hard, the nose bobs like a 911, but the rear seems soft and fine. Can I just change the front spheres, presuming this is the problem or would you do the lot?

[@spidiq8]

Thanks, I can't help much with that problem, they can take a few minutes to settle back down but something worth doing is dropping the car to the lowest (servce) position, this should drop all four corners, then raising it to standard ride height, I wouldn't recommend driving it with the rear high and the front low.

[@spidiq8]

@ARCANOE The spheres need to be replaced when the suspension fails to work acceptably well, push the corners (as you would to test the suspension and shock absorbers on another car), it should sag quite easily and return smoothly with no repeated bounce, if it bounces or is very hard and cannot be compressed easily you need to change the spheres. Typically they'll last 2 to 3 years depending on how the car is used

[@buckegit]

Hi you say the 12mm nut needs slackened ..... you dont actually show it .... I am fairly good with spanners but i dont know where the accumulator sphere is ??

[@spidiq8]

I use GSF car parts for pretty much anything Citroen (French car) related. Good prices, good reputation, good service.

[@skog77]

Great video, thanks! Question: My Xantia gets stuck in high position in the rear, have to drive a bit for it to come down. Is there any point in the back there that can be greased for this to get better? ps: i just ordered a similar sphere removal tool from ebay, looks exactly the same as yours :)

[@chrisaubert243]

hello,I need new spheres and I'd like to know who you get them off? I've had a quote of £150 for the six of them for my xantia. It seems too cheap but a few on the frenchcar forum site recommend the supplier

[@Spurdospaerde692]

I'd recommend loosening the rear suspension spheres slightly with the suspension in the highest position (i.e. with MAX PRESSURE). This will prevent the hydraulic cylinders from turning with the spheres, which results in broken pipes and other expensive nastiness. Then lower the suspension, de-pressurise, and twist off the spheres completely. If you don't do this, then you'd better have some(thing/one) that can hold the hydrocylinders completely fixed while you fight the spheres!

[@spidiq8]

@bababooey7576 Additionally, the only reason they need replacement is that they go hard rather than conventional systems going soft, you've likely been in several cars whose suspension is well past it's best and in desperate need of replacement but been unaware as weaker springs, more sag and wallow and knackered shocks are not as evident as hard suspension units.

[@yorrickwi]

the front with the thread on it has a ingenius looking valve type thing (the thing a 3rd sphere doesnt have) yeah the dampers from motorcycles are somewhat the same as car scocks but car shocks thave a system where you have a series of valves i was wondering if this was the case in these spheres

[@spidiq8]

Yes you can but if they were all changed the same time originally it would be advisable to swap them all as they are subject to internal wear on the diaphragm, external appearence isn't a good pointer as the fronts can look new and the rears seriously corroded. A rule of thumb re the accumulator, (this is a very important one as it pressurises the entire brake system too) is wait for the clicks indicating pressure build up, time it till the next set (at idle), if it 's occuring: cont...........

[@rabelius91]

You dont have to bleed the system? is that corect? i thaugt it was like in the braking system. :)

[@spidiq8]

A misunderstanding I think, you DO have to depressurize but you don't have to bleed the system, to remove any part you have to depressurize, but you don't have to manually bleed them through afterwards, they're self bleeding when you restart. Hope that makes sense?

[@jayjaykruger8463]

do you have more videos on other maintenance on the citroens would like to learn more

[@spidiq8]

Jay Jay Kruger Sorry I don't, I posted this one way back when I had my Xantia because there were no useful tutorials at that time, other tasks were simple maintenance which is common to most cars. Other parts of hydro pneumatic suspension for example are the same as any suspension in respect to pivot points, bearings and such.

[@Barnacle825]

0:25, the forehead wrinkle looks like Citroen logo ?

[@spidiq8]

Haha. It does a little. Maybe that's why I like Citroen?

[@Barnacle825]

@@spidiq8 , you're funny, I like your style man

[@spidiq8]

@@Barnacle825 I'm happy if people get something out of my videos. Whether that's helpful info or a laugh. Thanks man.

[@Barnacle825]

@@spidiq8 , cool. No problem man

[@migzon1]

Apreciate your work, I wonder if all the 6 spheres are the same part No.? Pls Advise

[@spidiq8]

No, they weren't. The front and rears, (if memory serves were the same part number), it was a while ago so I can't be 100% but I think they were. The accumulator is a unique one on it's own as is the ride height/levelling unit in the middle rear, this one has a visually different threaded opening which is apparent immediately but the numbers are stamped on each unit so it's impossible to get the wrong ones in the wrong place.

[@spidiq8]

If you mean to just replace the spheres then if memory serves these were about £28 each but are non OEM, the price of all 6 was comparable to replacing the spring/strut assembly on a normal car otherwise it depends on the work required, if it's everything including struts, pipework etc it could then bcome very expensive.

[@spidiq8]

Has this just occurred since replacing the spheres? If so and it's from the rear it's your radius arm bearings in the rear trailing arms that are worn, what happens is they allow the wheel to tilt inward at the top (camber) which rubs on the rear inner wing, jack up the car to it's fullest height and get a torch in there, look for crescent shaped rub marks, if you see that thats your problem, it's caused by leaving the spheres hard for too long, the bearing takes the brunt of the shock and wears

[@PanccoVanilla]

What is price to repair complete hydraulic suspension?

[@delphinepascaud5857]

Comment s appel la pièce qui est accroché à la sphère de la roue arrière ? Xantia année 2000

[@spidiq8]

Do you mean the wrench which I loosen it with?

[@delphinepascaud5857]

@@spidiq8 non c'est la pièce qui fait monter la voiture, il y a 2 tuyaux d air. C est là que j'ai la fuite hydraulique

[@bjerina]

I know that it is. But if it was my car like that i would probably freak out :D So no chance of having Flintstone vehicle any time soon? :P (sorry for my english, i am not from UK)

[@spidiq8]

You can, but odds are the rears will start to go hard before too long, i'd just replace the lot and you're good a for a couple of years or so.

[@bababooey7576]

@spidiq8 Thanks for the info. interesting stuff. Haven't seen a Citroen here in Canada for ages. I remember the old skool ones. saw it raise up at the gas station it was at. eons ago.

[@leemacdonald7141]

hi ,do i have to loosen 12mm bolt next to accumulator sphere if im only doing front?

[@spidiq8]

Lee Macdonald Yes, this allows the system to bleed air as it pumps fresh fluid through to the new spheres when you re pressurize it.

[@spooktasticaparanormal]

May I ask where I can purchase the sphere removal tool?. Thanks in advance.

[@spidiq8]

Paul Erroch It was from eBay, I don't recall the seller.

[@spooktasticaparanormal]

Ok thanks for your speedy reply. I'm having trouble removing the rear spheres on my c5 estate. Any suggestions?

[@spooktasticaparanormal]

Tried ebay and everywhere else can't seem to find one anywhere.

[@spidiq8]

Paul Erroch Do a search for GSF car spares, they took over a citroen specialist some years ago and sell spares, (my spheres came from them), they may have one. I'd offer to sell you mine but I'm nowhere near it currently and not even sure where it's at.

[@spidiq8]

Paul Erroch The rear ones can be a pain and honestly the only safe manner is the tool, some have used cold chisels and mallets but I cringe seeing it.

[@Toza85]

First sry for my english :). I have question about front sphere. Is there any ventile i need to release when i'm changing only front sphere

[@spidiq8]

If you mean the accumulator sphere at the very front in front of the engine then there's a bleed screw or bolt you need to undo a turn or two, do not take it out, it has a spring and ball bearing in that can be lost! If you mean the front wheel spheres then bleed the system as described in the video, hope this helps. Also, the English is just fine, no apology needed. :)

[@Toza85]

Yes i mean it on wheel spheres. Tnx for fast answer :)

[@spidiq8]

+Toza no problem, just de pressurise the system with the engine running as per the video, use a large plastic bag as you unscrew the old sphere, if the diaphragm is damaged there could be a lot of fluid leak out and better in a plastic bag than all over the engine bay and components, while it won't damage your paint like brake fluid it's very messy

[@spidiq8]

No, the image is deceptive, it has surface rust, (this is a coastal village), but is solid underneath.

[@leemacdonald7141]

hi there wonder if you could help me again.my citroen xantia has become very bouncy at the front end only ,does this mean that it is just the front spheres that need replaced?

[@spidiq8]

Lee Macdonald Yes it does, the gas inside will have gradually disappeared and the sphere will have become ineffective. I'd recommend changing all at the same time though.

[@leemacdonald7141]

spidiq8 thank you very much ,when you say all is that all six or just the 1 for each wheel ?the front ones look much easier than the rear lol

[@spidiq8]

The front ones are incredibly easy compared to the rear, but really it's only access, get it on the highest setting on ramps or over a pit, crack the spheres 1/8th of a turn, (there's a lot of thread, they won't blow off), then lower and bleed the system and remove as per the video. Remember to undo the pipe with a flare nut wrench or very good quality open end spanner on the levelling sphere before removing it. I'd personally replace all 6, the three at the rear will have had the same amount of road salt and grit abuse so daft not to, the only one that you could decide to leave till later is the accumulator in the engine bay, if it's ticking frequently, change it, if not and it's maintaining ride height and braking pressure it should be OK, but frankly it seems daft not to do it with the others.

[@spidiq8]

If you look on GSF website you can get a set for probably what OEM would cost for a pair.

[@leemacdonald7141]

spidiq8 thank you very much for all your help.

[@AndrewHubbardBadger]

Hi great video thanks :) could I ask how to change the fluid ( flush clean filters etc) maybe u already have done a video on this? have fun, Andreas

[@tommccullagh7158]

Hello, i had some cleaning fluid put into my BX's suspension system and the time has now come to put LHM back into it. Does anyone know of any videos that show the procedure so i don't have to take it to a garage? Thanks

[@spidiq8]

tom mccullagh I don't know of any videos showing the procedure but essentially if you're flushing out cleaning fluid and replacing with LHM it's the same procedure as bleeding first the brakes then the accumulator, it's exactly what would have had to have been done when putting the other fluid in.

[@safieemohamad9407]

hi sir, my rear suspension stayed at "height" position even there are no more passengers in board (unload) its took over night to go back to normal position, i wonder Y, please advice regards

[@spidiq8]

Your accumulator sphere may be getting close to needing replcement, your rear height regulator sphere possibly and also it's worth checking the mechanism that operates the rear ride height adjuster underneath the car near the rear central sphere, they can stick and need freeing or replacing occassionalt

[@safieemohamad9407]

dear sir, thanks for ur advised, i'll check the said "height regulator" (rear) later, as you said its might be stuck some where else.. regards

[@spidiq8]

Good luck and let me know how that goes.

[@safieemohamad9407]

I still could't find the rear corrector,sir..please help regards

[@spidiq8]

Best way is to get under the car and track the actuating rod assembly from the switch near the gear lever and back to the assembly near the rear ride height corrector sphere

[@spidiq8]

@f1carl Do not remove them fully with engine running and suspension at top as they are under an enourmous amount of pressure.

[@spidiq8]

The process for changing the spheres is exactly the same, the most important thing being that you depressurise the system before taking them off. The only difference, depening on model will be the number of spheres, your BX for example may not an an anti sink sphere at the mid point of the rear axle.

[@theAteamgirl]

Hi, A very technical job made to look easy ! ? my current transport is 2001 Fiat Brava 80 SX, Until recently, a very reliable car, problems ? ecu light on, said coolant temp sensor = replaced, then, throttle sensor = replaced, then, it said the above items again !!! Clean out throttle control unit, problem gone .... touch wood !, got at 55,000, now 69,000, 1242 cc 55mpg on a run, 31 in town ! passed 3 m.o..t.'s worth the £790 I paid 3 years ago, water leak in boot - tail light seal fixed xx

[@jmmobile1]

Is it the same procedure for Citroen C5 2002 ?

[@spidiq8]

Johnny Mikkelsen I couldn't say for certain but it'll definitely be very similar if it has hydraulic suspension, you may have additional spheres or have the accumulator and levelling one in slightly different locations.

[@glup2glup]

@spidiq8 As your spheres are available, you can use them many years, like many owners of Citroen in France,like me, specialy wich are marqued by chevrons, diaphragm is made by Michelin with very good quality. The system Tecnosir C720 is considered here very reliable and cost is less 150 euros + azot. Watch it on youtube

[@yorrickwi]

i am trying to collect info so i can make a video explaining how the whole thing works i also have a piton an cylinder of the suspension so it makes quite a nice set

[@leemacdonald7141]

hi wonder if you could help me ,my 1995 citroen xantia suspension isn't going back into normal mode at the front .it can go right up and down but wont sit in the middle .help please.

[@spidiq8]

It sounds like the height adjustment mechanism sticking or damaged, the easiest way to check is to get the up in stands or over a pit and track the lever and mechanism from the selector lever assembly behind the bulkhead, (from underneath). trace it back to the rear axle and check all of the rods and connecting pieces are OK, it helps to have someone operate it while underneath so you can see if anything is sticking or not moving. This was fairly common with the BX models and it was a component that coupled the front and rear slector rods together that failed, this left the front on the floor and only the rear portion lifting, Do not drive the car any distance or over rough ground like this, you have no front suspension and can cause damage. (Make sure the car is well supported, you don't want someone lowering the suspension onto you whilst underneath)

[@leemacdonald7141]

spidiq8 thanks very much ,its just recently fixed its self .hopefully its ok .thanks again for your advice.

[@spidiq8]

Always a good thing, do check the rods and connectors underneath however when you can. It's easier and cheaper to free off and clean and reassemble now than replace and odds are if it's sticking it'll need doing sooner rather than later.

[@jayjaykruger8463]

getting my gs club tommorow how do i depressurize the system to replace the spheres

[@spidiq8]

Jay Jay Kruger I'd assume the GS is the same as this Xantia and you depressurize the suspension spheres by setting to the lowest setting with the engine running until it sits low. The accumulator needs to be bled and there's typically a bolt head on or near the accumulator sphere connection point in front of the engine, do not unscrew it completely though as it has a ball and spring pressure valve inside and you can lose them.

[@jayjaykruger8463]

thank you i appreciate the advice and help

[@spidiq8]

Jay Jay Kruger You're welcome, sorry I couldn't assist further.

[@spidiq8]

LOL, no Your English is fine BTW, better than many english born people I know, :) It does look quite corroded on the video, but like I said is very solid, MOT tester always commented on how solid it was underneath for it's age. I don't own it anymore but it's still plodding around

[@spidiq8]

@thierryanna Non OEM are fine, get them from a reputable source like GSF though, gsfcarparts(dot)com I personally wouldn't risk something like this from ebay unless it wasa boxed sealed unused OEM part, don't forget, the hydraulic system covers everything, brakes and all. The most essential component for making this job easy is the sphere removal wrench.

[@spidiq8]

I can't really do that for you just now, (we're in Scotland in November, need I say more), also I changed the anti sink at the same time as the spheres. I can however send you a mail explaining the process, the A/S is slightly different but not too much so and the accumulator is pretty much the same procedurally.

[@spidiq8]

........ cont from prev: more frequently than every 2 to 3 minutes and more than 3 seconds of clicking the accumulator is overdue a change anyway. Honestly, my advice, if they haven't been changed in six years, despite mileage, is change the lot and while you're at it, replace the LHM and bleed the system, odds are that's well past it's best, it should be a bright clear emerald green, any darker or slightly cloudy it's overdue, susp at hi for brake bleeding, cycle lo to hi 4 or 5 times, cont..

[@lezbriddon]

ha ha i know what you mean, i find crawling round under them to be thereapy and the chisels are stress relief...... not been on two wheels since about 90, i may try three wheels next, i have a 2.1td motor in the shed just need a front end and maybe....

[@spidiq8]

That's a shame, sorry but I don't know where you'd get just a seal other than a Citroen main dealer, (they should still stock them) Good to know it went well otherwise, it's not as daunting as it looks is it.

[@lezbriddon]

how much rust? you not heard of waxoyl! apart from that 5 stars for doing this, and dont knock the chisels (no pun intended) i've managed to break a sphere tool before now removing a rear.

[@spidiq8]

Also, what you're seeing in the top of the screen at 3:40 is the spare wheel carrier, not the floor of the car.