Changing Hydrolastic Fluid on a 1970 Austin America

After years and years, Hydrolastic fluid can use a change. In this video, I depressurize the suspension system on a 1970 Austin America with the Churchill Hydrolastic Pump. This is the unit that dealer service departments used for BMC/British Leyland cars here in the Unites States, as well as abroad. They pump allows for depressurization as well as pressurization. In between (cut out of the video) I evacuated they system using this tool. While Hydrolastic replacement fluids are still available, I chose to use a mixture that was recommended by a former British Leyland shop foreman. He instructed me to use a 50/50 mixture of Methanol and Antifreeze. The methanol recommended was Air Brake Antifreeze, and this container was under the Gunk brand name. Feel free to comment if you have any other mixtures or suggestions. And please, don't drink the suspension system!

[@misterfishisme]

I had several 1100/1300s in the seventies - very nice ride with no vices, even four up. I remember the Hydrolastic pump; even small workshops had them, good to see one has survived!

[@oldertechsw]

That's what I've been using for years. If "real" Hydrolastic fluid isn't available, this is a workable alternative.

[@peterpopken7699]

Heb ook een oude Austin Victoria in Spanje. Tengo tambien in Austin Victoria en espana. Ben bezig deze te restaureren.

[@johnwebstet8132]

Still learning never knew this with this car amazing!?

[@americodelperu9655]

Hello i am from peru. I have the suspension problem. If you can help me . I really appreciate. My car is Austin 1966. Here nobody knows about these system. I need the bumping hidrolastic fluid machine. If you can send me a picture of your machine..

[@yakacm]

The suspension is probably still more advanced than most American cars made now, lol, only joking obviously.

[@yentafourstours3090]

I would like to know the distance from the front hub to the wheel arches. Approximately how far is it? Thank you.

[@MrArtisticsound]

Hi, I am interested to know if you are suggesting that the hydrolastic fluid can be replaced with a mix of the two products 50/50 (Interesting) Mervyn

[@supaSPROK]

What type of pump did you use? I am struggling to find one for my 1971 Mini.

[@oldertechsw]

In my original posting, I mentioned that it was a Churchill pump like the dealers used. Check out these folks. facebook.com/groups/Hydrosuspension/about/

[@supaSPROK]

oldertechsw thanks!

[@Daikenboy]

I see you measured it 0.34. What should that be as I think mine may need pumping up..

[@oldertechsw]

I missed this comment years ago. I'm very sorry. Did you get your suspension sorted?

[@Nesboy85]

Can't find any leak but every 3 months (and that is amazingly aqurate ) I have to add fluid cause the car lowers in the drivers side. Can't find why ! I have a 1969 MKII 1100 .

[@oldertechsw]

+HarryKritikos That's certainly a mystery. Make sure the Schrader valve is tight with a Schrader valve tool (like used on a bicycle). No fluid shows on the ground or anything like that?

[@Nesboy85]

+oldertechsw Yes it is! Actually I just came back from the shop and put more fluid . Also we checked the car underneath and saw nothing of a leak ! I have the car parked in my garage and apart from a small oil leak (fixed a couple of months ago) nothing was on the floor . Few months ago we took all the hydroelastic units out, changed the interconnecting pipes valve core & caps because there was a major leak from the interconnecting pipes. I have to add that all the hydroelastic units are still the original from factory since the car was always extremely well maintained from my late grandfather and low mileage (66.800km since new - 41500miles) , so after sitting 2 years it was logical to have a huge leak from the pipes . Since the repair the car behaves great apart from the fact that every 3-3,5 months I have to add more fluid !

[@VauxhallViva1975]

I have had this happen to one of my 1300's a few years ago. There were no leaks that could be found, and I even parked it on top of several bits of white paper roll that were arranged side-by-side, so that I could instantly see if anything leaked out over night. Not a single drop, but the car would still sink very slowly over time, and I would have to get more fluid pumped into it. Eventually decided it had to be the displacers, so I removed and replaced both the front and rear one on the side that was sinking, and the problem went away. Further investigation indicated that the displacer units might have become porous and were allowing the fluid to bleed into the rubber. Not enough to make it actually leak out, but enough to allow the pressure to drop off, which allowed the car to sink on that side. Replacing the displacers is not an easy job, so you probably don't want to do that. The book says you have to drop the rear sub-frame to remove the rear displacers, but you don't have to do that. You can usually lever the rear-wheel arm out of the way with a large, strong pry bar and an assistant. Don't get too carried away with leverage, but you can remove them this way and then you don't have to drop the whole sub-frame which is a major job.

[@michaelh3109]

oldertechsw Enfield page to motoring

[@AntsPlants]

How do you know when it's enough?? Pressure or. Night of car??

[@oldertechsw]

FlyingAmbo Height is your ultimate guide based on the measurement at the front wheel to the fender.

[@peterpopken7699]

In Spanje the check the back week to vingers is good for a Austin Victoria

[@peterpopken7699]

Week is tire

[@peterpopken7699]

Back wheel 2 vingers beteren tire and side of the site of the car

[@alward9901]

O k mr Bean , got it