Changing Rear Brakes on 2013 Subaru Legacy, Outback, Forester, Impreza

Rear Brake Rotors: amzn.to/2yv0IiW
Rear Brake Pads: amzn.to/2zwjRkE
I am replacing the rear brakes and rotors on a 2013 Subaru Legacy which should be the exact same as an outback or legacy from 2010 to 2014. These should also be the same or similar to the subaru forester and impreza. The rotors are DuraGo and the Pads are Wagner. The car was rumbling before coming to a stop and this fixed the problem. If your car is shaking when applying brakes, it could also be the brake rotors or in extreme cases if the car is shaking on the highway. In my case the rotors were dished and one of the pads was worn to bare metal.

[@louisbellanca9293]

You should check the torque for those bolts. They are like the most important bolts on the car. Front: Caliper support brackets are 120 N-m/88.5 ft-lb Caliper pin bolts are 27 N-m/19.9 ft-lb Rear: Caliper support brackets are 66 N-m/48.7 ft-lb Caliper pin bolts are 27 N-m/19.9 ft-lb

[@Tundralifted]

You never cleaned the new rotor it still has the oils on it from the factory

[@president89]

THIS

[@TheThekapuka]

Men that was easy , now I don’t have to pay a mechanic for rotors and brakes replacement no more , thanks a million

[@riffedwood5597]

Good video. Never done rear brakes, thanks for the update

[@kris.monroe]

Thank you! I appreciate the work you put into sharing this video.

[@scottriggs4950]

At 3:00 I messed up and did alot of damage when forcing the rotor off. I didn't realize the emergency brake has to be OFF. I didn't know that. I couldn't understand what the F was going on when the Metric 8 x 1.25 bolts didn't just free the rotor and i pryed them off by pounding a regular screw driver behind the rotor which damaged the internal brake components. So turn OFF the emergency brake before changing the rotors!!

[@jpwiggins3725]

That hole and rubber gasket is for the e-brake adjustment. Sometimes you have to look in there and spin the flywheel a few turns to release the e-brake enough to get the rotor off.

[@cryptoisaac]

Would this apply for the 2012 Outback too? I have the same rear breaks

[@locker1325]

Finally a realistic Subaru Brake replacement video. Rusty parts and pads that don't just fall out or go in effortlessly. Love the filing tip as mine needed that badly as they resisted greatly. I was afraid to do this since other videos shoes them going in so effortlessly. I do have a question though. My pads cam with funny metal clips on each pad. Could not figure out what they were for. Any ideas? I love how you pounded the pads out. Very real world. Great realistic video. Learned alot.

[@andreygromov7224]

Hey, not sure if you found the answer to your question yet. Those are wear indicator clips, when your brake pads are thin enough that it’s almost time for a change, the little clips will start rubbing against the rotor and make a noise.

[@locker1325]

@@andreygromov7224 Thank for the information. Had a hard time figuring that one out. No videos mentioned them. Especially the position they are supposed to be mounted.

[@77cwayful]

Another very good video!! Thanks!! If you have a manual transmission make sure the ebrake is not engaged. Had a major issue with my rear rotor getting stuck and had issues getting the new one on which I thought maybe could be due to this?? Was almost positive it was it was not engaged but 2nd guessing my self after the issues.. Figured it was worth mentioning. Thanks again!!

[@CoolStuffGuysLike]

Thanks! The E brake could definitely make it just about impossible to get the rotor off! I have seen them stick pretty hard from rust but if it was also hard to get back on that would probably point to the e brake.

[@theword4501]

Hug ! Finally I get my Answer 😎 "Don't put on the parking Brake". Tanx.

[@markdionne]

The "jacking bolts" to force off the rotor are 8mm x 1.25 pitch.

[@janash1491]

Where can you get these? Home depot?

[@hugo.ouellette]

Very good video, don't you have to rotate the Piston while compressing it?

[@CoolStuffGuysLike]

Thank you! You do not need to rotate the piston on these cars. I think on some cars with a caliper style E-brake, you would need to rotate them.

[@marcoflores8004]

thanks for the video, next time could you plz show the caliper guide pins to see which ones got the seal, the top or bottom? does anybody know, asking for a friend ...

[@theword4501]

I discovered...if they are in the wrong female...it wont tighten.

[@rachaelholler6682]

Thank you for this video.

[@denospyridon3126]

I wish I could’ve done a better view of you pushing in the piston

[@andy8034]

Nice job, but u forgot to clean the rotor and pads with brake cleaner.

[@burrido111]

Thanks!

[@DarkBootsExorcist]

What do you do if the piston doesn’t compress

[@voodoo_chicken1]

Ki Knight remove it and relube it with brake caliper grease. If they don’t come out, take it to the shop to have them removed and buy new ones.

[@3May]

I was looking at this as a refresher... I'm a little disappointed. The caliper compression wasn't recorded, and you fouled the pad putting it back on the carrier. Man, I hate to criticize but those things bugged me.

[@rubengarza8108]

Hi, one question, I want to buy a Legacy subaru because of your experience, do you recommend it?

[@CoolStuffGuysLike]

The legacy has been incredibly reliable for me. No costs other than routine maintenance. It is not the most exciting car but still a great value and AWD which is huge where I live. It eats about a quart of oil per 2000 miles which annoys me but apparently that is pretty normal anymore with the super low viscosity oils that they spec.

[@theword4501]

Yes !! They are like Legos to repair...Im an old woman. I did grow up on a farm...but I never worked on a car before...of course...when I was younger there wasnt computers or cell phones 😎. I did the front brakes with my son last week. Now doing the back ones...the most difficult part is the heavy tire. Lol

[@theword4501]

Ummm. Did you have any air in your brake lines? Just curious?

[@bnellynel]

The Would how would he? He never disconnected any lines.

[@denniskelly4357]

Be careful not to touch the pad material with your greasy hands. Great video though.

[@president89]

THIS!

[@OSUbucknut]

Where can you find a bolt to insert into the rotor to pop it off the hub if its stuck on there?

[@CoolStuffGuysLike]

You can get one at the hardware store in the metric drawers or steal one temporarily from your radiator mounts. I believe they are the right size. If u are at the hardware store just get one of a few sizes. They should have a 10mm or 12mm head but I don't remember the pitch off hand

[@lauram5906]

FYI you're looking for a 12mm bolt.

[@the3rdbestnikkashopinyoura540]

@@CoolStuffGuysLike And when you pop the rotor off, put it or the new one back on in the same place, matching the bolt holes due to impressions on the hub face. Don't forget the Brake Clean.

[@ryanfahey640]

The bolt that holds on the brake hose bracket!

[@chaddickert7493]

M8 x 1.25 thread pitch bolt to thread into rotor holes and force off hub

[@everpresent1]

So you have to remove the caliper bracket to remove the pads?

[@pinkiepie1656]

To remove the rotor

[@indan383]

No. Removal only necessary for servicing pins and cleaning off crud, grease and rust. You can replace the pads without removing the bracket. Only recommend that however if:1-the shims are pristine and your new pads slide easily and 2-or your guide pins are moving smoothly in the bracket.

[@applesvt]

are they all disk breaks in the rear?

[@ericp3573]

yes but not breaks

[@sirhaney]

Wheels actually a 19mm- torque is gonna be 90 ft-lbs

[@unclealig]

good: you checked the free and smooth movement of the caliper guide pins bad: you placed the rotor wrong, the hole with the rubber should be in the same place as the old rotor, because behind the hole there is the adjustment for the parking brake; you did not use brake cleaner to get off the anti-corrosion oil of the rotors; you touched the brake pads with the brake grease

[@rustyshackelford9156]

Actually the rotor is not placed wrong. There is no need to orient the hole in the rotor to where it was before. Since the the rotor can be rotated and the parking brake assembly remains fixed, you would simply rotate the rotor until you had access through the access hole to the parking brake adjuster. There is no right or wrong way to orient the rotor or the parking brake access hole.

[@joecandoit5341]

Did your have an electric parking brake?

[@CoolStuffGuysLike]

Yes it does.

[@mds2465]

@@CoolStuffGuysLike so you don’t have to reset the electronic parking brake motor after doing that job?

[@tanovw]

Is that bolt you using a m8x1.25? Great video btw

[@CoolStuffGuysLike]

Thanks! I believe that is right if I remember correctly. You can steal one from your radiator mounts temporarily if you need to.

[@delladorey6560]

your upside down my friend now thats better

[@rustyshackelford9156]

These comments are cracking me up. A few oily finger prints on the rotor or pads, oh lord the calamity. Makes you wonder if these people have ever actually done a backyard brake job. Good video.

[@CoolStuffGuysLike]

Thank you! The KZbin commenters seem like they are always looking for something to pick about. I don't think the grease from my fingers is going to make any bit of difference and if it did, it would be burned off in the first couple miles. I'm sure most garages aren't spraying the rotors down with brake clean after changing them.

[@bruzote]

@@CoolStuffGuysLike - You might be wrong, you might be right. I would think that if grease is a problem, so is the accumulated grease and gunk from the road. HOWEVER, experienced people are saying you should not let grease on the pads. In fact, I was once nearly in an accident when my brakes failed to grip at first, though I believe they were simply wet. Yes, they eventually gripped. But if you get grease on the pads, perhaps drive around and ensure they functional for a hard stop before assuming the grease has no impact.

[@ericp3573]

not a good idea to have grease on you hand an touch the contact area of the pads, also a cheap pad pusher works better than a huge c-clamp. cap off is fine you are still pushing fluid into the master cylinder, you are better off opening up the bleeder screw with a tub and catch to ease pressure then simply top off the brake fluid

[@MrAhkhan89]

Didn't knew that legacy has both drum and disc :s

[@hammertime413]

Most cars have a drum for the parking brake

[@bnellynel]

Why buy a new rotor? Why not just turn the OEM ones? Waste of $50

[@robertfugate5827]

You put grease on the pads surface, you didn't clean the new rotor, and didn't bleed the brakes!

[@zalbedo]

He doesn't introduce air to the system so bleeding is not necessary.

[@piotrpaszak]

Why would he need to bleed the brakes???

[@smithgov]

Terrible...