Changing the Oil in my 1952 Ford 8n Tractor with Super Tech 20w-50 Oil

[@jacklabloom635]

I get the filter for my 8N at NAPA. NAPA also has points and condensers in stock. I use Rotella 15W40 in my 8N.

[@auntiefiat9769]

Oil analysis by eyeball!! You got skills son! Like that 8N!

[@DereksWorkshopAndProjects]

Lol, I mean, there’s an “oil analysis” and then there is “no metal shavings or bits and the oil flows fine and it’s not too dark or sludgy” by eyeball.

[@diyspeed]

One thing that comes to mind with these old engines is ZDDP additive. Flat tappet cams need the zinc to keep from eating themselves. Cool tractor man!

[@DereksWorkshopAndProjects]

Thanks, I'll have to get some and try adding it sometime.

[@teresajohnson849]

What is zddp additive ??

[@benkanobe7500]

@@teresajohnson849 Zinc. The older engine designs (about a billion engines) use flat tappets as stated above. The tappet rides on the camshaft lobes (the bumpy things) and as the camshaft turns, they ride up and down on the lobes, while doing so, they lift the pushrods up against the rocker arms on over-head valve engines or just lift the valve in flat head engines (like the 9N, 2N, 8N, and Model A Ford cars and trucks). On the overhead engines, that rocker arm is like an upside down "teeter totter" and as the push rod rides up on the tappet ("lifter") it pushes the valve(s) down against the valve spring pressure and opens the valve. As the cam (camshaft) rotates further the lobe height diminishes and the valve spring pushes back on the pushrod or tappet (lifter) and closes the valve. Round and round we go. That tappet (lifter) has lots of friction on its face where it rides on the camshaft lobe and Zinc was added to oils from way back to reduce the friction and transfer heat at that interface between tappet (lifter) and camshaft lobe. Modern oils due to environmental issues have substantially less Zinc in them and therefore older engine designs can prematurely wear out camshaft lobes ("cams gone flat") or tappet (lifter face) causing a very poorly running engine. Diesel oil does not have as stringent of environmental regulations regarding Zinc and so some folks use oil like Shell Rotella Heavy Duty Diesel oil in their gasoline engines to get back some of the protection offered by Zinc. Some other folks use Zinc additives, and still others use "Racing Oil" like Valvoline VR1 which has added Zinc. Hope this helps. PS Newer engine designs have "Roller Cams" meaning the end of the tappet/lifter have a wheel the rolls over the cam lobe which has much less friction. Originally those roller cams were for racing applications or for exotic engines but as manufactures were trying to squeeze every once of milage out of gasoline engines, reducing internal friction was targeted and "roller cams" became almost standard. At about the same time this was happening so was catalytic converters and other methods of reducing emissions and Zinc was targeted and reduced from engine oil.

[@sargepent9815]

AND lead substitute additive since these engines were designed to run LEADED gas. If you overhaul one of these and put in hardened valve seats and bronze guides, you can run unleaded. Of not, you need to run an additive or youll damage the seats

[@2ndamendment770]

good job , My "51" was definatly rebuilt correctly , and at higher RPM it shows around 40 , Idle RPM about 20-25 .

[@PurpleCollarLife]

That's a nice old 8N! We love ours - it's the earlier 8N with the front-mount distributor.

[@harlonlantz4094]

Oil pump pickup tube may be cracked.

[@sargepent9815]

Oil pressure is resistance in the bearings, not flow. Chances are they didnt spec the crank and if it was worn and they put stock bearings in, there is likely a gap between the bearing and the mains/rods. the pick up could also be clogged. Best thing would be to run an oil analysis at the next drain (if it makes it with only 5psi oil pressure) and check for wear metals. the GOOD thing is you can roll new bearings in without having to completely disassemble the engine by removing the pan. However, if it were my tractor, I would overhaul it now before it suffers engine failure and ends up costing even more. But, im 2 years late to this party and likely the situation has resolved itself one way or the other either way

[@garymccord4277]

Change that gauge one that only goes to 30 psi oil pressure. You will be happy that the gauge looks better to you when you look at your oil pressure and it reads half way.

[@ldean-du5im]

There is a drain plug on the filter housing' you can drain before changing.

[@diyspeed]

Yeah I would try a Lucas oil rebuilt on the old tractor. Might just bring the oil pressure around.

[@DereksWorkshopAndProjects]

I'll give it a try sometime.

[@terrancefitzgerald3942]

I use cheap supertech or Atwoods brand full synthetic 10W30 in mine, with a little Motorkote. I noticed you hit the ignition before the starter spun down. Did you do the starter upgrade with the retracting gear? I did on my 9N after shattering the gear in the old one trying to restart before it spun down a few times.

[@pondacres]

I got the same oil pan, love it. Toss me a hint sometime on TBN who u are on there.

[@DereksWorkshopAndProjects]

I think I’m under DerekF or something like that. I don’t participate in the conversation a lot. I used to frequent the DIY threads and garden/lawn tractor threads. I’m not a tractor head (yet) enough to regularly comment on those haha, I don’t know a ton.

[@benkanobe7500]

The engine could have been properly rebuilt but they didn't replace the oil pump. Add the LUCAS right away. But consider how inexpensive and easy it would be to add a new Oil Pump and see if that did it. If not, you now have your new oil pump for your engine rebuild.

[@bobkuboske6494]

Try cleaning out your oil line to the gauge, that fixed my oil pressure gauge.

[@benkanobe7500]

What temperature (in "F") was it when you started it for this KZbin. Mine floods if I use any choke above 50F (I learned the hard way). Otherwise mine starts just like yours with no choke which is excellent!

[@aloneinanearthship4010]

as I recall, oil pump isn't the easiest job on an 8n

[@waylonmccrae3546]

You only need 8 PSI for every 1000 RPM , they run cool also so the oil isn't baked all the time , run DELO 15Winter-40 & STP Oil Treatment .... you will be good to go !! 😎👍🏻

[@natemorlock2379]

I think that tractor is supposed to take 6 quarts of oil. Might be why your pressure is low

[@kylereynolds486]

Yup

[@kylereynolds486]

6qt sae 40 detergent synthetic blend something gonna do you good I bet don't get non detergent

[@chirodocheilman]

Baldwin Filters are very well designed and high quality. As long as the fitment is correct, you really won't find any advantage with going with Wix (even though Wix is a high quality manufacturer also) as they are similar quality construction.

[@DereksWorkshopAndProjects]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback.

[@BobSmith-ce2zp]

When the guy rebuilt the engine he may not have primed the oil pump (which is can be seen by removing the oil pan), that could be why you have low oil pressure.

[@DereksWorkshopAndProjects]

I’ll look into that!

[@moisesgarcia1495]

Róteles 15-40 makes this older 4 cylinder engines run like new u can see up to 24 lbs of oil pressure

[@DereksWorkshopAndProjects]

Hmm... I'll try it on the next fill up but I doubt it will be any different than the Super Tech being the same weight.

[@richierasmussen3086]

Figure out the size wrenches you need. Using an adjustable wrench/socket can lead to wear on the nut and eventually round them off.

[@keithwarkentin]

Something not right because you’re 8N has the upgraded oil pump I think they went from 5/8” to 3/4” gears in 1950 and up I also like to us an additive like STP or Lucas or Kleen-Flo Rocket oil they are all good but I was going to mention a canister oil filter I so much better than a spin on in my opinion because the canister acts like a sediment bowl. I usually take the whole canister off and give it a good look to see if there’s any metal or something that tells me that there’s something else I should do to prevent a serious problem. But anyway keep on trucking 😀🇨🇦

[@WaynesAdventure]

Awesome

[@countryhandyman1064]

Sams clubs oil is barley cheaper but they don’t have the best selection so super tech will probably still be my go to.

[@DereksWorkshopAndProjects]

Beats making the drive to the city to get it I guess.

[@oldretireddude]

Could your oil pressure issue be an oil pressure relief check valve spring issue?

[@DereksWorkshopAndProjects]

I need to check on that sometime when I have some time.

[@benmillard3755]

Bleed the gauge it may have air in the line

[@moisesgarcia1495]

Rotella

[@davidshipulski4532]

Your 8n has plenty of OP. Not to be rude but those chinese gauges suck. Get a Stewart Warner gauge. Made in USA. Thanks

[@DereksWorkshopAndProjects]

$90 for a gauge? Hard to justify that!

[@davidshipulski4532]

@@DereksWorkshopAndProjects Quality gauges. Its best to spend some money and see if your tractors about to blow up or not. You get what you pay for....

[@jacklabloom635]

@@DereksWorkshopAndProjects , my $12 gauge from Amazon works well. Shows 38 psi on my 8N. No need to spend a lot on an oil gauge. To verify your engine is getting enough oil, simply disconnect the line going to back of oil pressure gauge temporarily. Start tractor and run for a few seconds to see if oil squirts out the end of open oil pressure line. Your tractor needs a minimum of 5 to 7 psi of oil pressure, when at maximum operating temperature. There are different reasons for low oil pressure in these tractors. You should research possible causes and solutions, if you have not done so already.

[@ldean-du5im]

Bad gauge.

[@Shadow351c]

This guy sounds like Joe rogan..

[@DereksWorkshopAndProjects]

I’ve heard this on certain videos many many times. I think this is a first on this one.