Cheap Chinese Crankset ⚠️ Is failure inevitable?

2 years ago, I got a lightweight crankset from AliExpress. How is it holding up, and will aluminium fatigue lead to failure…?
SIROKO CLOTHING LINK:
srko.co/tracevelo
I have been using my cheap aluminium crankset from AliExpress nearly every day for the last 2 years. It is branded CVR and produced by a company called Zrace, but Sensah have also provided them with their Empire groupset. The crankset is nice and stiff, rides nicely, shifts well, looks good, and only weighs 711g. So what’s the catch?
Well, it’s a Shimano hollowtech compatible crankset, so the axle spindle is 24mm in diameter. To my knowledge Shimano only ever use steel for their axle spindles. The potential issue with my cheap crankset, is that the axle is made of aluminium.
One difference that steel has compared to aluminium, is that after repeated loads, aluminium will fatigue, whereas steel has an indefinite fatigue life.What does this mean for my crank, how much longer will it last, what are the risks, and should you be concerned? Let’s find out!
New Siroko Film:
• THEY CALL US CRAZY - S...
New Senicx Crankset:
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Timestamps:
00:00 - Start
00:30 - Sponsor segment
01:08 - Intro
02:18 - Crank arms & chainrings
05:52 - Aluminium axle
08:15 - Broken axle examples
09:18 - Steel bearings vs aluminium axle
10:01 - Final thoughts & advice
10:35 - SRAM DUB axles
Intro roll:
Created by Dev Joshi - www.go2dev.co.uk
Music:
Birocratic (birocratic.lnk.to/allYL)
Fresh Healthy Perspectives
Lakey Inspired ( / lakeyinspired )
The Process
Noir Et Blanc Vie ( / billyocean2185 )
Still Not Rite
NoMBe ( / @nombe )
Take Me Down to The Fashion Show
BioDrive (biodrive.bandcamp.com/)
Waves of August
About Trace Velo:
I love cycling, and I love getting pro cycling kit for less. If it’s cheap, from China, and made of carbon fibre, I’m interested!
Instagram:
/ tracevelo
Email:
[e-mail]
Please note:
With the exception of Siroko and Senicx, all other products demonstrated in this video have been purchased by me, and I have no affiliation to any of the sellers or vendors shown.
In addition, I am not a professionally trained bike mechanic. There can be risks associated with using products that are unbranded, untested, or come from sources where the provenance is unknown. Please talk to a qualified bike mechanic if you are in any doubt.
In essence, be careful, do your research, and cycle safe!!!

[@TraceVelo]

So after perusing the comments section, a few engineers, including Hambini and PeakTorque, mentioned that the broken axles I demonstrated could be due to a shear failure (due to torsional overload), potentially amplified by internal defects within the aluminium. This theory could well hold up, as the broken axles were not particularly old, so aluminium fatigue is unlikely to be the only suspect, and the QC on some of these cheaper parts is definitely a little questionable. Anyway, appreciate all the comments on this one, every day is a school day folks!

[@Hambini]

To explain my reasoning, aluminium is a ductile material so you typically get a ductile fracture. The stress on the crank is predominantly torsion, the bending stress is not that high through the crank axle because it's supported by the bearings. If you assume the bending stress is very small (you essentially ignore it) and then look at the torsional loads. Typically in engineering, you would refer to solid shafts for reference so the fact this axle is hollow makes the analysis a bit more tricky. HOwever, the failure mode exhibits similar characteristics, the most noticeable one is the failure occurs at an angle and there appears to be some slight necking. I would emphasise the caveats associated with the statements written and that being it has not been visually inspected - going off a photograph is not conclusive.

[@bobwilliamson5574]

@@Hambini did your hairdresser write this for you ?😄

[@drivemenuts3011]

From the images, it looks like fatigue failure (i.e. very slow crack growth over many months probably from a manufacturing fault or flaw). Fatigue crack growth can occur under shear or torsion. Two thirds of the surface in the image is smooth indicating fatigue crack growth. I can't see it in the photo, but the smooth surface should have very small close together parallel lines (a bit like a nail file). Each line represents the fatigue damage from one cycle of the crank arm. The remaining third of the cross-section of the shaft is very rough. This is caused by sudden and final plastic collapse failure which occurred over perhaps a dozen cycles. This due to the torsion loading of what remains of the cross section and is what Hambini is referring to. Any Aluminium component under such large stress cycles is a statistical ticking fatigue time bomb (i.e. will your crank could last 10,000 km or 100,000 km. It will fail sooner or later. Steel at the same stress will be 100,000 - 1 million km. Increasing the diameter and thickness of the shaft helps a lot. But if I were to spec a bike to ride around the world on (i.e. Jenny Graham and Mark Beaumont), I definitely wouldn't go with any Aluminium shaft. Remember that the Tour De France Pro's throw their near new chainset in the bin at the end of each year. If you were to sell on the bike, the new buyer won't know what they are getting with Aluminium. The best bet is to take the weight penalty of steel.

[@davidgarza2267]

Someone pointed out what looks like a crack on the spindle at around 11:34 of the video. Can someone confirm whether thats a scratch or potential crack?

[@TraceVelo]

@@davidgarza2267 So i had a look last night, fortunately it's not a crack, just a scratch in the Aluminium. Its also not super deep either, but ill keep an eye on it either way!

[@Jayneflakes]

That is dedication to your viewers, risking a broken axle, torn open flesh, a horrific road accident, being fed on by zombies and the calamitous end of the world, just to prove that Aluminium is fine for a crank axle! Good work as always, keep it up because your videos are always lovely and fun. 😁

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks Jayne! Yeah maybe it's foolish, but I LOVE testing out new gear and pushing the limits a bit, time will tell if these fail on me :S

[@bradsanders6954]

@@TraceVelo Once I was launched over the bars and broke a thumb from a crankset breaking...................my thumb will never be right again....all from riding questionable parts..

[@klcbsoft]

@@bradsanders6954 It's always a shame when something breaks, and it's twice as bad when ppl are injured (like you). But fatigue can happen everywhere. Last year the splines on my Ultegra-set broke on the left crank. Also last year on another bike with FSA-crankset the chainring broke. Which brings me to my conclusion: if Ultegra or FSA can fail, then so can Chinese parts (at a third of the price)

[@bradsanders6954]

@@klcbsoft I tend to think,and to hope,that a big company like Shimano does more testing than a no name cheapo chinese product....my crankarm broke as it was cracked and I didnt catch it before it broke....it was an old Gipiemme.....inspect and clean all parts and who knows what you might find?

[@Hambini]

Those failures don't look like metal fatigue they look like torsional overload or shear overload.

[@TraceVelo]

Hambini keeping me on my toes! I think you might be right here, so I’ve pinned a comment to this effect. Anyway, thanks for the comment dude, always good to be challenged on this stuff!

[@Hambini]

@@TraceVelo I'll reply to your pinned comment.

[@shannonparker7404]

Like a five year old to point out the obvious! :-) :-)

[@bennettturk3206]

Or it's possibly from bearing deformation from contact between parts.

[@Medievalfan94]

Engineer here: Those machining marks in the middlesection kind of worried me back in the originial video about that crankset and now my worries are proven right by the mode of failure shown. The rough machining results in troughs and spikes in the surface, similar to a threaded rod, just not that deep. But it is apparantly enough to cause stress spikes in those throughs that go right around the part. Just a recipe for cracks forming and finally failure in the part. Hence shimano HTII axles are smoothed in the middlepart. If they maybe sandblasted the surface or went over it with a finer feed rate at the machine those axles would be way more reliable. Also the axles shown for SRAM are smooth and plated all around.

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks so much for the comment, really insightful! I think you might be onto something actually. Looking at the photos between the 2 failures, they both broke at prety much the same point too... Ill def keep this comment in mind when reviewing cranksets in the future!!!

[@ruudboek]

@@TraceVelo I've got the exact same crankset, the axle is aluminium as well, but the axle has been anodized black. Would that prevent the fatigue issue then?

[@phynex5555]

That might be the case too. However, I think the main reason the aluminium crank snapped at the same spot because of the nature of aluminium itself which is much softer than steel. In other hand, when I was doing a research on lubrication application on aluminium rod using pin on disc machine, I found that different type of lubrication also plays important role in reducing friction especially at those wear marks. When I looked the wear marks under SEM machine, the crack propagation is much wider on unlubed aluminium rod compared to aluminium rod that were lubed with conventional lubes.

[@two-eyedRoy]

@@ruudboek Whilst anodizing is a form of layer or case hardening (can be 3x harder than the raw material) it won't stop fatigue. It will put it off for longer, but by how much? How long is a piece of string? It kind of depends on where and why these failures are happening. Is it from the outer diameter under tension failing, or the inside diameter under compression when the spindle flexes under load? It is an improvement regardless to material rigidity. Compared to an identical piece of material that is untreated (and barring imperfections) it should last longer. Note: The harder you make something, the more brittle it also becomes. It can be a bit of a trade off. For a constant given load, lets say a motor running a generator and the driveshaft is aluminium, with anodizing that shaft could be a lighter item from less material lasting just as long as an untreaded AL shaft. BUT that's for a constant loading through that shaft (the drag from the generator unit), our pedalling on flats, up hills, away from standstills isn't a constant, it's always variable loading. A very slight possibility of anodizing also being detrimental though if the inner diameter is also anodized. As you pedal and the spindle flexes, the inner diameter compresses whilst the outer stretches, ever so slightly but still happens, hardening those layers will make for a stiffer axle... for a while, then long term fatigue will catch up at some point. An essence of stretch and elasticity are good properties for longevity, not something aluminium is very good at.

[@Medievalfan94]

@@two-eyedRoy from the pictures of the failures at 8:20 I would say that it looks like the crack formed on the outside where the alloy yielded under the stretching induced by the torque of pedalling, benefitted by the surface finish. I come to this conclusion because the outer edge is very clean, almost 90 degrees into the material with crystaline looking surfaces which is typical for strain hardening in aluminium, while the inner edge looks more fuzzy and broken out like the material was twisted apart. I know that I might succumb to my conformation bias right here but I strongly think that the outer surface gave way first.

[@godlike30000]

I was wondering when you would make an update on this crankset and it finally came! This is why I always consult your channel in regards to these chinese parts. I have the same crankset and it feels so great to ride! The bottom bracket was kinda iffy tho so I got that replaced quickly but seeing how much punishment yours was able to take just gives me peace of mind that I'll be able to ride my bike without worrying about my crankset. Awesome stuff as always Luke!

[@mbrennen]

Great to see a follow up review long term. Really enjoying the videos.

[@tomermahlis12]

I am glad ur been transparent with all the products you review

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks Tomer, I try my best 😎

[@hisdadjames4876]

For me, that is one well structured, honest and entertaining video. Thanks. 👍

[@ALJ1466]

Another excellent video Luke. Both educational and entertaining. Kudos for making these whilst holding down a day job. I am still putting off editing my own GoPro videos from last year! May your subs continue to roll in and the sponsors keep sponsoring 🙏🏼

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks Aneirin, really appreicte the comment! Yeah, with these videos and a fulltime day job, free time for me nowadays is an absolute myth 😛

[@icklegrangeplombier8051]

Yet another excellent video, glad to see you're settling into your new pad. Would be interesting to see what some non destructive testing would reveal on your crank. Would make a really nerdy metallurgy video. Keep them coming.

[@danielbum912]

I remember you promising to report back on the aluminium spindle's durability back then. Top lad!

[@byrondixon4648]

Love the teaser for future videos!

[@vazione5410]

I love these update videos on parts from China, keep up the great work Luke! You’re my favorite bike content creator. 👍🏼

[@TraceVelo]

Awesome! Thank you Vazione!

[@AndrewScottHome]

Fully agree Vazione, Luke's videos are brilliant!

[@ilikewasabe]

Great video as always Luke! Your videos are the ones me and my mates look forward to. Esp for budget options. Your coverage and review and update on the ltwoo and sensah groupset helped us allot on the decision. Thanks for all your hard work luke truly

[@TraceVelo]

Awesome, thank you Wasabe, really pleased you enjoy them!!!!

[@two-eyedRoy]

Great vid as usual Luke! :) I can see the failure point in your crank spindle. 11:34 - 11:36 as it rotates through the light you can see a hairline crack including a couple of pits in keypad 8 (break the screen into 9 [3 rows, 3 columns, 8 is the bottom middle square]). Can't say when it'll go, but when it does I'd put money on that area being it. I doubt changing the machining (from that fast rough cut that's almost a thread to something smoother that takes longer) would make any difference as that hairline looks to have been present during machining (evidence being the little facets either side of the crack that glint in the light) That does also imply the the bar stock was not forged and possibly not extruded either (could be wrong on the latter, not entirely sure). Like the '80s Castrol ad. 'Oils ain't Oils', metals are no different. AL 7075 cast is rather inferior (crystaline structure) to extruded 7075 (crystaline structure uniformity) and then forged 7075 is slightly better again (crystaline structure uniformity under compression). Those three states are also increasing in cost to purchase. A note on advertising jargon: A 'billet' is just a single piece or chunk of material. It doesn't define any level of quality. A billet of junk material, is still junk. It's a fad term from the car wheel industry that since got picked up by motorsports and now any manufacturer wanting to hype up a product now faps into their own face about billet this/that in their advertising. The term/phrase you want to read/hear is 'Billet Forging', because the Forging gives the material it's best structural properties.

[@chrispeach85]

Thanks for the video, Luke. You're always very helpful 👍

[@vlogsbyakkas343]

youre a godsend mate, so underrated - hope your channel grows massively!

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks Akkas!!! 😊

[@Duell-850R]

As always a fantastic episode. Entertaining and informative.

[@TraceVelo]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@Angel-wo8gv]

Luke maybe you won't read that but i want to let you know i'm an avid (and subscribed!) viewer from Spain that really enjoys your vids. I value inmensely your honesty and dedication to this sector of cheap bike stuff. I own a cheap mtb kinda converted for road use but i plan to build myself a proper disc brake road bike this year using a frame and parts reviewed in your videos. Just wanted to let you know you have active viewers from all around the world that find tremendous value in your work. Take care mate, and keep doing this forever please :D

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks so much Angel, what an awesome comment! I put alot of effort into these vids, and comments like these really make my day!

[@venomsnake1142]

I really appreciate this research review, it tooks a long time to know what happened. And I see Micronew brifter is still attached on your bike.

[@tds397]

Excellent video with scientific background to go along, cheers mate 😉

[@TraceVelo]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@ramrod2k]

great Video, you really improved your Video quality! Perfect Mix of Entertainment und Science

[@TraceVelo]

Awesome, thanks!!! Yeah I'm always trying to improve my stuff, so glad it's coming across 😄

[@harrymaccycling]

Great as always, for someone who's about to build a bike just off parts from Ali express it's really helpful 🤝 my g

[@markphillips5800]

Great video. When I did my build last year I used the same crankset (I also used the same 'Speedplay' pedals). I'm a heavier rider so I'm going to replace it with the steel axle version. Your updates are much appreciated.

[@CR250noob95]

I'd love to see a similar series focused on mtb or gravel bikes. Keep up the great work!

[@dinodaniel2237]

Great video ! I ride a steel frame roadbike, the only carbon fibre on it are my brake levers. Always look forward to seeing your videos .All the best!

[@dickenscider4677]

Cant wait for the fully carbon brake caliper video. Been in my shopping cart for a few weeks now.

[@grantnyenes3742]

Great video, interesting to see a crank failure from trace and a Dura ace crank failure vid by Hambini on the same day! It seems the cheap ones no worse than the most expensive…

[@Fluxyzabc]

Great work again and again

[@markk527]

great video. Thanks. I just checked all of my chinese cranksets. I’m glad to report that SMLLOW, iXF and Claw cranksets have steel axles.

[@TraceVelo]

Nice, thanks for the comment Mark, good to hear you are running steel axles, will def help with longevity!

[@markphillips5800]

Thanks for the heads-up; I just ordered the steel axle version of the crankset. I'm a heavier rider and I really appreciate the follow-up on your videos. When it's all said and done I probably haven't saved much money over Shimano (new steel axle crankset was $31, $20 shippng) but I like the look of these better, setup was easy, and shifting is no issue. And the faux-speedplay pedals are still going strong - that was a great purchase!

[@NextMerckx]

Luke killing it with the ELI5 for fatigue limit!

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks Chris! Yeah I tried to keep it as quick and simple as possible, metal fatigue is a massive rabbit hole once you start researching...

[@hafermilch7278]

As always, a good video, thanks a lot.

[@otaviopohren5998]

Nice work. Your editing is really good. Ciao ciao

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks Otavio😅 I've been trying out some new editing techniques recently, so I'm glad it's coming across!

[@chriscross5689]

Another top video Luke.. love.your content... Whats the pedals on your disc bike?

[@tomcruz3774]

I think imma cop the steel axle version. Also can't wait for the rim brake video

[@JibbaJabber]

Great vid and technical discussion. Nice research🤗 BTW, have you got pedal a extender on your Senicx crank?? The pedal axle looks unusual/long🤔

[@LukeRichardson1981]

I'm running a cheap Chinese crankset on my bike as well, though not this exact one - mine is made by Litepro and I use a 1x drivetrain. But your video made me check the specs and I'm certainly happy to see that the axle on mine appears to be steel, so I don't need to worry (although I'm not a masher by any means, especially as there are basically no hills to speak of here in Shanghai).

[@TraceVelo]

Awesome, always good to check!

[@thomasalison6188]

More good stuff from Trace Velo!!​👍

[@baemapip571]

I bought the same wheelset and crankset after watched your videos, thanks a lot dude

[@njm3211]

Enjoy your videos. Ciao from Sicily.

[@mrT-gx5bq]

Wow you are releasing one video after the other recently, is it already christmas?^^

[@TraceVelo]

Ha, glad you noticed! I've been pushing myself to step up the pace recently

[@sotirbg]

I was going to say the same thing. You sir beat me to it

[@martynfairclough5013]

thank you for the video luke

[@TraceVelo]

No worries!

[@MrLambik]

@TraceVelo : Smoother surface will increase the resistance towards fatique. The 'lines' of milling will increase the chance of tear or rupture. Smoothing it with sanding paper will increase the durability in regard of fatique. The initiation of the cracks are on the surface, smoothing it will decrease that initiation of a crack.

[@relativist]

Great video! A have an Goldix crankset, with steel axel. Hope it will be ok to ride. Cheers from Moldova!

[@philg6757]

Great video,I see the ZRACE Rx road crank has a 28.99mm like Srams which is great to see. Thanks for the info and what to look out for, I really appreciate it.

[@andreianderson2507]

Thanks for another great vid Luke! Just wanted to ask though, how does the new Senicx chainset compare with the CVR one weight-wise? Hoping they're still in the same ballpark 😅

[@TraceVelo]

So the Senicx crankset is a little heavier, maye by 40g, but the chainrings def seem more robust

[@simplyxuan779]

Hi Luke! Just wanna share my experience here on this exact crankset too! I had 2 of this exact cranks in 165mm. Both had the same problems where the GXP mounting surface on the crank is slanted/offset, such that my chainring doesn't spin in a straight-line. It cause my chain to rub both sides of my FD even in 50-11 gear. For the #1 purchase, I told the seller about the issue where my chainring doesn't spin straight. The seller kindly told me that the chainrings are CNC-ed to a good tolerance, and it must be the cranks that have issue. With little questions asked, the seller sent me a new crank, and the problem is solved. For my #2 purchase, the slant/offset seems even worse. Worse part is no reply from seller yet. So kinda hit or miss

[@TraceVelo]

Wow interesting. Maybe in your case, the parts were damaged/bent during shipping, which led to the issue. The packaging on some of this gear is a little hap-hazard for a 3 week shipping period from China... Thanks for the comment tho, always good to hear other peoples experiences!

[@simplyxuan779]

@@TraceVelo still worth it for the price! Risk it for a bicsuit!

[@sepg5084]

I had a ZRACE Hardrock MTB crank where the left side arm was held only by a single aluminium bolt that goes into the center of the crank. Unlike Shimano it had no pinch bolts, and kinda looks like a GXP setup. After almost a year of use, the bolt snapped it's head. A similar crank to this is the Fovno Ghost. I now went for a Prowheel MPX-11 crankset where the left crank arm has pinch bolts Similar to Shimano Hollowtech. It's a bit heavier but it looks like it will last longer.

[@simplyxuan779]

@@sepg5084 oh damn, I'm familiar with the Fovno and GXP stuff, and always thought the crank bolt torquing to like 40Nm makes it bombproof

[@JimbobB1978]

I had the same problem here. They sent me new rings hoping it would solve the problem but was the same. Turned out the axle wasn`t bonded in straight with the arm. They where kind enough to send a new arm out also and this one has been fine.

[@Jampolito]

nice new upload luke

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks! Been working my nuts off on this one after work over the last week, hope you enjoy it!

[@Jampolito]

@@TraceVelo i really enjoyed your videos luke, i already watched all of your videos

[@nicokilla11]

Luke you should try our the EE Brakes that are on AliExpress for sale. I picked up two pairs and love them. The ZTTO brakes that you've picked up are really light but are extremely narrow (rim width has to be less than 24mm). Some people who bought them say they are based on the old Ciamillo Lekki8 brakes? Would be great for you to confirm that info in your review.

[@Kacavida11]

Hi there. 5:30 Your right knee reaches more under the handlebar then you left, from top view, as if you have 175 mm crank on you right and 170mm crank on you left. 8:20 Fotage reveals cranks break toward the non-drive side sugesting the load was applyed on the left crank uppon breaking. To hinder axle break, try applying a pull on the drive side while applying pressure on the left crank. That is, help your left crank spread the load buy pulling simultaneously on the right crank, ballance the load with opposite load.

[@BigMut91]

I do enjoy the videos and have purchased wheels from your reviews, both sets which have been amazing! Just ordered some siroko cycling gear as it seemed reasonably priced compared to wiggle comparisons. Could of told us it was foreign though, €25 delivery 😂 hope it fits! Keep up the good work

[@Warmanbd]

Great Video! I had the exact same problem on the exact same cranks. Axel snapped as i was pushing off from a red light. I'm 6'2", 210lbs and had about 4500mi on the cranks. Company replaced with the steel axel version under warranty and so far ok. I will give it one more year and if there are any more shenanigans, I may just spend the $$$ to go Shimano or explore the larger DUB tech as you suggested. Thanks again!

[@MrBubba3494]

From which store did u get the steel versión? Could you give me the link if you have it please!!

[@llrl1061]

Great video ! Could you try Fovno aurora ?

[@neyfidelrosario]

I'm glad I stuck with my factory cranks, I was thinking of getting some but I'm going to stick to mine

[@varunthevar5034]

Luke could you pls do a video on cheap cycle computers? Love your videos

[@richardharris8538]

Thanks, Luke. I'm gonna check my ONIRII ATTACK crankset before I ride it. (Not that I put out much power.)

[@bennewton]

Legend. Best of KZbin.

[@arnaudseynaeve9266]

Yesterday I was watching Hambini's video about Ultegra and Dura ace crankset problems. Today is yours. I'll start to wonder if I can put a sail on my frame

[@cpkmemes1243]

Can't wait for the new crankset and full carbon caliper review

[@louielindenmayer6653]

Just got my 165mm Senicx (BSA68) to try out shorter crank arms on my tri-bike. Comes with pre-load adjuster. Smooth finish on axle. So far, worx well enough.

[@stop223]

Bought these cranks because I was in need of new cranks in the summer of last year and you recommended them and well...they fit my budget. Since I saw this video I was a little worried so I took my cranks off my bike and checked the axle and it looks good. But it kinda looks like steel to me. So I took a magnet and my axle is 100% magnetic. I googled 7075 and it is basically alloy with zinc neither of these materials is magnetic. So am i right assuming my crank is actually a "newer" model and made of steel?

[@TraceVelo]

Yeah sounds like you've got a steel axle, so you should be golden!!!

[@blakeszkoda5732]

Luke, you mentioned that the axle for these is now made of steel at 10:03. Do you (or Paul) have any idea WHEN the company made that switch? I bought one of these in the fall of 2021 and it's been good. Obviously I could answer my own question by taking it out and checking it with a magnet, but maybe youtube is faster haha

[@J.P.1.]

I sheared a Cdale SI crankarm right off the spindle a couple years ago, and had replaced the crankarm bolts because they tended to strip easily, for me.

[@11robotics]

There was at least one generation of Shimano road cranksets having aluminium axles - in particular, the 105 FC-5600 ones. I did have one and it did have an aluminium 24 mm axles, but with somewhat thicker walls. It was one of the first generations of Hollowtech II axles I think and the crankset weight as near as makes no difference the same as the next generation of 105 (FC-5700), which came with steel axles. There were some reported cases of Shimano aluminium snapped axles, but then again there are just about as many featuring steel Hollowtech II axles. I guess there are other factor in play there, such as the parallelism of the bottom bracket bearings or preload force.

[@mickchaganis6607]

I looked at the Rotor style crank set on Ali and was going to buy them but an original set came up on eBay for £120 so I bought those. A few days ago my carbon Sensah Empire pro 2 X 12 shifters and derailleurs arrived.......they look beautiful and silly money £238 including import duty and shipping for shifters, derailleurs, lightweight 11/34 cassette and a KMC 12 speed chain....how do they do it?

[@tomalbert3299]

What about the lightweight steel cassette? I'd love to hear news on that.

[@misterscagnetti]

Never thought I’d say this but Campagnolo is looking like my next Groupset.

[@kris4645]

Shimano HAS used aluminum axle! 12 years on my Shimano DEORE LX crankset,and those are still running! The stiffest cranks that I ever used! Excellent cranks! Greetings from Croatia 😊

[@woody9382000]

Goldix chain rings, was it Nut brake calipers? Got a pair of those.

[@lukesanders768]

Something similar happened to a guy here in Chile, he bought a new gravel bike (sunpeed kepler) and the aluminium steerer of the fork broke, like it split in the middle of the whole shaft within 2 weeks of use. Not common, but pretty scary anyway.

[@DavidtheDoom]

You are my favorite youtuber but also my Cheap Carbon Fibre hero. I will keep eating full grain in hope of achieving my own Chinese carbon bike soon.

[@haroon420]

Dude. With those hand movements, you should become a magicians assistant!! 😂😂

[@carlsiveyer7164]

Great content as usual Luke. Thanks for your hard work. One quick observation, at the end when you pointed out your DB road bike, did I spot some 20mm pedal extenders? Do you notice a positive difference in comfort? Power output? Cheers

[@TraceVelo]

Carl, you have some EAGLE eyes! So yeah I've always suffered with some slight knee pain in my left knee (usually sets in after about 30 miles). I've tried SO many different setup changes, and not much has helped. I think I have some slight hip impingement at the top of my pedal stroke, so I’m giving these a go. Not sure if it's the silver bullet I have been looking for, but so far, def seems to help… Time will tell though!

[@carlsiveyer7164]

@@TraceVelo ah cool, usually if pain is on outside of the knee they will help, invariably though, most issues are caused by excessive saddle height. I'm considering the spacers as I'm 6'5 and makes sense I don't have same q factor and stance as a 5'3 chap that has same crankset. Also when gym squatting, the body naturally wants you to put your feet wider. So I figured spacers and cleat rotation to slightly heel in toe out would be beneficial to biomechanics. Also may help your knee pain if you walk toe out but ride toe in, or straight 👌

[@TraceVelo]

@@carlsiveyer7164 Saddle height is something i've tinkered with SO much, but I think i have it pretty spot on. I've had a couple of bike fits in the past, so I know it's pretty much where it needs to be. But yeah give the spacers a go. They are only a few quid, and I definitely feel as if i sit a bit more squarely on the saddle now. I've actually got some 16mm spacers in the post, so will be giving them a go too.

[@carlsiveyer7164]

@@TraceVelo great yeah 16s for me also One last thing to look into is "mid-foot cycling " many many reports of people SOLVING their knee issues with the patrol cleat adapter, also solves metatarstalgia and hot spots in the feet. Also saves the achillies and calfs from fatigue, no loss of power, but a slower sprint transition. I don't work for mid-foot cycling by the way, just it solved alot of issues for me, and for £30 it has to be worth a punt for you. 3mm stack height and 24mm of possible cleat movement rearward. Commence googling mid foot cycling and hours of rabbit holing that will probably surprise you. Thanks again for the content, I'm running 3 sets of elite wheels, the BWS being utterly bomb proof and more lateral stiffness than I have ever felt 😀

[@tobingj]

@@carlsiveyer7164 lots of specifics there about various cleat adaptions etc I don't know about. But I'm 6'3 and had knee issues. Put in the spacers and all good. Hit 50 miles ish cycles and no pain. 👍 They are a cheap option to try first. 👍

[@sylvaingilson7091]

About the 'all carbon fiber' calipers, i've had 2 sets, first one was too narrow for my 26mm width winspace rims, other set was ok, i had to add an elastic on the caliper to help it get back to its open position, and there's a lot of flex in it when braking, so i can't wait to see what you have to say about these 🤙

[@VIEultimate]

Not quite the topic of this video, but interesting to see you've chosen to stick with the MicroNew brifters. How's it been holding up on that bike?

[@pscoop]

Repeat again what Luke said - because of the failure mode aluminium it's hard to be sure that the crank I have is fine, but so far so good. That caveat out the way, I got a Zrace DUB crankset as part of my Sensah "groupset". This is a fairly standard 5 point spider bolted onto the cranks (same SRAM style as Luke's) with individual aluminium rings bolted on to a spider. I was getting a lot of BB creak which after a lot of messing about I realised was not the BB at all but the bolts on the spider. No matter what I tried the creaking always came back so I got the "Zrace Hardrock" one piece replacement - ie both chainrings and the spider machined out of one piece of aluminium. This comibination so far is really good - done 1000+m on it. Also it's much easier changing / replacing chainrings this way than the traditional 5 point spider - just 3 torx screws attach the one piece chainring to the cranks so it's quick and easy to swap. I'm a heavier rider (98kg) but I don't notice any flex in the crankarms and the Hardrock chainrings are showing little wear. Hopefully because it's DUB axle it is less prone to this sort of failure but who knows.

[@TraceVelo]

Yeah hopefully that wider axle diameter will make the difference. I certainly havent heard any stories of Sram Dub axles breaking, so fingers crossed!

[@not-a-raccoon]

I've looked into cranksets lately, but I have a 9 speed set.. unfortunately there aren't a whole lot of options for lightweight sets out there. I think I'll wait until I do a full build or I upgrade my groupset.

[@charlcoetzee93]

Good vid. Nice to include a bit of materials science.

[@TraceVelo]

Glad you liked it!

[@FrVallC59]

Hello friend, I wonder if you can help me with a question I bought this crankset to upgrade my Sora octalink crankset. I'm running Sora on my bike except for the BB and Crankset, however, the right crank (since it's straight like yours) rubs the front deraileur when I change to the big front ring. If I adjust the limit screw so it doesn't move as far then the chain won't change into the big ring. I wonder if you came around the same problem and what your solution was 😋

[@guandasin3099]

I can see you are rocking the Micronew Shifters on your Rim brake Roadbike. How are the shifters doing so far?

[@TraceVelo]

Yeah still really happy with them actually!

[@Peo_Sahlin]

I had mine FSA SL-K Light 386EVO chainset for seven years without any problem. The axle is forged AL7050 aluminium.

[@Markyba47]

Hi Luke how was your experience with the senicx crankset? Is it a good alternative to a tiagra crankset because I'm having a hard time in looking for 165mm cranks

[@yspegel]

I often watch and appreciate your video's. Also often wonder how these parts would fair with my 85kg and 1800watt sprint....... Still having a campa group set and don't dare to try these (critical) parts on my drivetrain

[@Lezz015]

some old shimano ht2 cranks like Fc-m580 had an aluminium axle Ride it for a few years even in winter without any failures

[@harrybowman1843]

what are these crazy bib shorts youre wearing with pockets at the front? 0:43 I want a pair.

[@jamesrescar3094]

Wassup, hope you doing fine. If that crank fails on you should you try other Chinese/Taiwan Cranks? like the Sagmit system one or Weaopn Omega (I do not know if this is easily available in your country tho). Im kinda curious if those will instantly fail when ridden by a massive block of muscle haha 😂

[@ninonayad64]

Can you do a review for Avian Carbon Wheelset. Thank you!

[@NoBuyNoSell]

Can't be too bad if you're sticking with it for the time being, thanks for the entertaining and informative content, looking forward for more. I especially like the budget bit. I had my bike nicked; a felt 2014 mountain bike £475. Went to cash generator and found amongst the others a boardman 8.6 mtx, it was scruffy it was stuck on the middle crank out of 3x and tektro hydraulic brake, 700c. Because I've been riding in middle crank for 12 weeks I'm thinking I don't need 3 up front just a single 9x, then you're content popped up and it's energised me to shave off the weight even more, the boardman cost me 300, new in the shop 575. So it's kind of screaming out up grade me, I'm starting with the front crank then elite wheels then a 1000w electric motor! Just joking

[@user-sy1md6jm5b]

hi loves your videos i am looking for cheap and light weigth crankset, do you have any for recommed? I am a heavy rider 😅😅

[@auto6547]

I worked at a bikeshop in highschool. There was a old man who rode his bike 365 days everywhere and its a was a old alu raleigh frame for commuting and he told us that when he was making a turn down a hill he felt the crankset area loose and he couldnt transfer power. As it turns out the frame gave at the bb area due to fatigue and only the top welds where holding it. Nothing bad happened since he has braked already. That was a cool experience.

[@nmunthe]

How about quality for brand racework or cruzbike brand? They looks like similiar Luke

[@teunluijbregts2533]

Those carbon rim brakes look interesting 💪🤘 Wonder how they compare to a set of Shimano (relics I know, but still worthy of being a benchmark for good braking). Thanks for the vid

[@franklyescala934]

Can you try a cheap road bike fork

[@DDGB08]

What size bottom bracket are you using for the Zrace crankset?

[@stevesnailfish]

I've got a cheap IXF 1x crank on a 29er hardtail I have.....Been on there 3 years and doesn't appear to be crap as yet....I haven't a clue whether it's an aluminium axle or steel as I just fitted it when I got it.....It runs well with a SRAM GX setup.... I even stuck one on an old 26er hardtail last year (1x11 conversion), when I couldn't get hold of a Shimano kinda thing, and it's been pretty damn good.....It also runs very well with a SRAM NX setup..... I do check my chains regularly with a chain checker and just replace parts when necessary.....On a 1x chairing, it's just a piece of piss to stick another one on....Just keep your bike clean is the best advice.... Saying that, I don't really put much load on the pedals as I'm pretty ancient and only weigh 9.25 stones and it's pretty flat around here in Peterborough UK.. Good video again fella.

[@mdbourne]

Any update on the Senicx pr2 crankset? Thanks

[@curt5288]

I really thought this channel had 200k+ subs because of the production quality

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks so much dude! Maybe one day I'll get there!

[@sebastianm2381]

I think apart from the smaller diameter of 24mm (compared to DUB at 29 or BB30 at 30mm) the material on this crank is of inferior quality, despite supposedly being made of the same 7075 aluminium as more expensive cranks. It looks like it's cast instead of forged. Which would explain why the grain structure won't be able to cope with loads as reliably. It would also explain why it is that cheap bc it's obviously cheaper to produce. Getting the steel axle version is probably a better idea. The manufacturer seems to agree.

[@Ob1sdarkside]

I had a shimano alivio crank arm fail when taking off from lights. No indication it would fail either at the previous 3 lights