Cheap & Easy T-Slot Waste Board for the X-Carve CNC Router

I've finally gotten a chance to put together my X-Carve CNC router and I'm starting with a simple, DIY T-slot waste board.
GET YOUR VERY OWN X-CARVE!
Use the link www.inventable... for your purchase and help me to keep making videos!
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TOOLS FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO
▶ Rockler T-Slot Cutter Router Bit: amzn.to/2z9bVoq
▶ Rockler 3/8" Diameter Straight Router Bit: amzn.to/2z9VTKU
▶ Dust Right Universal Small Port Hose Kit: amzn.to/2zWxhTb
▶ Pentel Side FX Mechanical Pencil: amzn.to/2xHo1BB
▶ Bosch Plunge and Fixed Base Router Kit: amzn.to/2gyZ1TE
▶ 3M Half Facepiece Silicone Respirator: amzn.to/2jcqkZk
▶ 3M 2091 P100 Particulate Filter: amzn.to/2kHTehr
▶ 1/4-20 T-bolts, 2-1/2" Long: amzn.to/2AaVPZF
OTHER NOTES
▶ The first set of slots that I screwed up would have
worked fine, but because my spacing was off, they interfered with the placement of the mounting holes. That's the only reason I remade it.
▶ Why didn't I have the CNC cut the slots for me? The waste board is larger than the cutting area of the machine. There's no way to cut all the way to the edge.
▶ Here's the information on making your own waste board for the 1000mm X-Carve: goo.gl/vA822E.

[@TheBravo364]

The Like button was hit the moment you took the time to demonstrate exactly how you centered your bit within the routed path.

[@AcrimoniousMirth]

Your brutal honesty is refreshingly charming. Keep being awesome.

[@Hazinclayton_007]

You are a Genius! I would have never thought to make that router jig!

[@rickmccaskill7888]

Clever idea with the router jig to cut the holes. Love it.

[@robsciuk729]

I will absolutely steal every bit of this ... *VERY* nice work.

[@larrystrayer8336]

I did the more expensive way. I used aluminum tee track I routed in mdf Work great and the 1/4 bolts slide good Love my cnc router.

[@johnware5312]

What I did on my home brew was basically screw down T-track to some 3/4 plywood. Next I sliced up some 3/4 mdf in strips to fit between it with a dato sized to cover the upper lip of the T-track and leave a slot a tad wider than the slot in the t-track then glued it down. That way i could cut at least 3/8 off the top without hitting any track or any other metal. As it got chewed up I simply routed out a pocket in it as big as i can go. Then I simply cut new strips of mdf sized to go from one side of the slot to the other and glued them down. Clamping was a breeze, just slide some clamps in the slots and tighten it down. Over the years Ive repeated the process a few times but I have NEVER had a need to remove the original filler strips between the t-track or the t-track itsself. T-track is far more expensive than just slotting mdf but you can get real serious about tightening clamp bolts down and NEVER pull out chunks of mdf like you possibly can do with just t-track type of slots in mdf. A trick that can prolong the life of any spoilboard is wood filler, either the commercial stuff or some made with glue and the mounds of sawdust you have to get rid of anyway. Fill up the dings and when it sits just do a pocket across the entire spoilboard at around a couple thou thou or so deep cut with a handy flat end bit. I use a 3/4 router bit but any end flat end bit will work, the smaller you use, the longer it takes. Just run it as fast as your CNC will go. On mine thats in the range of 350 IPM. What the controller displays can be off a bit from what the G-code says. Dosent take long to do a 2 foot square pocket running at 350 IPM with a 3/4 bit with an 80% overlap to do it. :) When it becomes more woodfiller than MDF simply repeat the above. Structurally my CNC is different as the spoil board is NOT a structural element like the X-carves are. By going this way there is never any need to remove the supplied spoilboard at all. t only removes around 3/4 inch of the maximum Z cutting depth. And you dont have to deal with resquareing up an X-carve again if it moves while the spoil board is not in place.

[@shannonwilliams7743]

Honesty finally!

[@onair2tv774]

A+++++, the idea is there AND IT WORKS, " HE'S POINT IS THERE " aND mR wESLEY YOU ARE A EXPERT .... tHANKS, VERY MUCH

[@danielgeorge5839]

LOL dude you are awesome

[@taylorwallgren5440]

Awesome video! Very clear and detailed instructions without dragging anything out. Perfect balance of humor too :)

[@josepenaherrera6354]

thanks, man. Saludos desde Perú

[@xyloidify]

I just used slot wall that is made.for store displays rather than pegboard. Way easier than making your own t slots. Great video, love your jig, check out the slot wall. I got it at Home Depot.

[@jeffiscool1805]

I'm using it as well. Aluminum inserts are available for the slots/slats. I got used 1/2 sheets dirt cheap and luckily they had them already installed. Should make it last longer as well as adding strength.

[@onlyychevys]

You can actually level the waste board with the x-carve. You will enjoy it, I know I do. Think I will sub to see how it goes, thumbs up!

[@spanksthx]

YAY!!! Good to see you. I have seen you IG. You have been busy. Looking forward to the next video!!

[@davidsphone8449]

Thank You for your work. BTW, I hope you kept your original T-slot as a spare. It's been my experience that the tool path does not care where the hold downs are, as long as they are clear... Aloha

[@johng8967]

Nicely done. Keep up that good work.

[@cradd00]

Great video! This will be my NEXT X-Carve spoil board! Love the humor, made me sub!

[@nyinfamous2k2]

Hey Wes, just subbed, love your work. looking forward to more videos from you. got a bunch of tips so far from your past clips.

[@samstinner]

Bravo! Great!

[@CryoGenUK]

Always a treat. :D

[@Pablogogo]

Sell out comment, best one yet! Great video

[@dleivam]

super awesome

[@engr.usmanzaeem3727]

4:45 Mechanist ✔️✔️✔️

[@hoold01]

Excellent work. Liked and subbed.

[@markadamarnold]

8:56....seems so familiar for my shop. :)

[@jfairplane8520]

Cool. I haven't think about making my own slot. I just put 2 ply of mdf on top of other. I just still don't know what is the best to bond them.. white glue.. but when i need to replace the wasteboard... ? humm thanks for the video.

[@josephthibault6999]

Would it be quicker and maybe cheaper to use 2 sheets of MDF and "mortise" the wider top of the T into the bottom and then just ripping another sheet of MDF into thin sections and attaching it to the bottom one? You could glue it or maybe even bolt the top pieces.

[@fstedie]

I've held off on using T-Tracks because once screwed down you can't level the waste board. However, depending on how deep you make your T slots here, you can level it quite a few times before you need to replace it.

[@WesleyTreat]

I recommend having a look at Phil Johnson's waste board, also: www.designsbyphil.com/dbp-x-carve-waste-board.html. That will probably be my next version.

[@UnderTheJelloMoon]

Any issues with the MDF delaminating under clamping pressure? The t track bit I have came with documentation recommending against MDF for its tendency to delaminate

[@WesleyTreat]

Not really, but YMMV.

[@holdemNE1]

I got 7 minutes into the video when I started to think that drilling all of the holes would have been the better way to go. It was then at 9:18 when you said you had to start all over when you confirmed what I thought.

[@WesleyTreat]

I had to start over because I messed up my measurements, not because holes were a better idea. I could have just as easily messed up the measurements on the holes.

[@WesleyTreat]

By the way, I'm not sure why it took you 7 minutes to think T-slots weren't a good idea. I was done with those at under 5. Everything after that had to do with mounting, which I'd have to do either way.

[@holdemNE1]

Dusty, nasty MDF. Don't crank down too hard on those T-slots or the thin "T" part will snap. Holes would have been much cleaner and smarter IMO. I did enjoy the process of you making them however. The mounted wood runner did make it much easier. I would have measured and mounted a straight edge each time. Your idea was very clever. Oh, and was it necessary that all of the T-slots were perfectly spaced from one side to the other???? They are just hold downs, not sure why it mattered other than aesthetics.

[@WesleyTreat]

I made sure to cut the slots deep so there's plenty of material above the T-bolt to grip. I can screw down those clamps really tight. As for spacing, as I explained in the video description, the first set ended up running into the mounting holes. The mounting screws could technically have been moved since they slide into a rail, but I preferred having them properly spaced as designated. Thanks for watching!

[@bogsdolics]

Hi Wesley nice vid, to take the pressure of your router could you have started to cut the slots with your circular saw then the router straight bit then the t-slot bit , I know it would be extra work but in the long run it might have speed-ed things up if that make sense , G

[@WesleyTreat]

The Bosch router I use is a champ. It had no trouble making it through. If it did, I would have just made three passes instead of two. Using the track saw first would have meant measuring for all the slots first. Something to keep in mind, though. Thanks!

[@imriestaffson9592]

Ok so my question is why not put the spoil board in blank and use the X-Carve to cut the slots as far as they can ?

[@WesleyTreat]

If the slots aren't cut all the way to the end, there's no way to insert the T-bolts.

[@mikepsych283]

Man I wish I would have seen this before I bought my waste board

[@fstedie]

Also, I'm wondering if plywood would have made a better material for the waste board...

[@catwildleon4368]

Just one simple question - since you have CNC (will have it once fully assembled) - why you didn't assemble the whole CNC on plain MDF, and then let X-Carve machine carve t-slots - way easier,,,

[@WesleyTreat]

The machine can't cut all the way to the edge.

[@catwildleon4368]

fair...thanks

[@toms4123]

Well, I jever have the base board larger than the working area of the router. You will find out why the first time you want to surface plane the board with the router to have an asolutely straight surface for engraving, vinyl cutting, accurate aluminium machining etc etc

[@richbuilds_com]

@@WesleyTreat Hi! Welcome back to a comment from 2 years ago! How much would you have lost cutting it on the router? Was it worth it in the end?

[@KPhil2713]

My favorite part... “Whaaat the fuuu” (VIDEO CUT) 😆😆😆 Subscribed! I’ll check out your other videos to see what else I can learn. Great video 👌🏼

[@BellyUpFishGarage]

How well has this held up?

[@WesleyTreat]

It was still working well when I upgraded about a year and a half later: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpK9mImrn7CGp5o

[@russveinot5754]

2 things, if you left the edge of the board with the rounded track coming out, you might make inserting t-bolts easier? 2nd, I am not a big fan of t-track, I am a dog hole supporter. your making your own t-track vs. buying it is an idea I support. I own a Legacy Ornamental mill which has the same hold down issues as a CNC. I used dog holes same as Marius Homberger's channel. my using bench dogs is a little different than his though. your hold down methods work when holding a piece flat to the table, but what about milling on the edge or on the end of the work piece? my table can hold a piece in all three configurations. I was hoping I could get you to review my video about my "New Milling Table". I only ask because I am interest in your opinion (and input) as a very creative maker. please let me know if you have time.

[@brocktechnology]

That X-carve looks bloody chintzy for two grand. Looks more like $299.00 on banggood to me.

[@WesleyTreat]

It's actually a really good machine.

[@donaldasayers]

What brand is that fancy ruler with the end stops?

[@Tj-oq2lw]

Love your video. Is the x carve worth the money and time you put into it ?

[@WesleyTreat]

Thanks! I do think it's worth the money for an entry-level machine. I can see myself upgrading in the future, but if you take the time to learn how to use it, you can get some great results.

[@Marcus_Caius]

Brilliant! But seriously, do yourself a favor and get a router with dust extraction :)

[@Everfalling]

the problem with using that jig for spacing is that if the jig is even a little off you will compound the error across all the slots you cut. so if you're 1/64th under then then next slot will be 1/32nd under, then 3/64ths under, and so on.

[@WesleyTreat]

+Everfalling True, but that's not what caused the problem in the first board. I just measured wrong.

[@gregbrodie-tyrrell3473]

Wes, you deserve high marks for creativity and workmanship. On the matter of compounding errors I agree with both of you. In this case it may well not be important because if you are using the T-slots just for down-pressure for clamping, positional errors don't matter. If, however, you were going to use the slots for accurate positioning, Mr Everfalling is correct, and track-related positions would become ever more inaccurate as you progressed across the board from the first cut track to the last one. This is why, in some ways, the XCarve baseboard is a good thing; its holes and layout grid are going to be accurately placed. That said, there is another issue which concerns me more, mate, and I apologise if I sound like the archetypal safety Nazi, *BUT* The adhesives used in MDF and particle board and all those composite materials are known to be carcinogenic. This carcinogenic property may also be a property of the small particulate size of wood dust produced in machining operations, but let us not worry about the details of why it is bad; that dust is bad shit! If you don't wear at least a dust exclusion mask, you may get to go to the big ole woodshop in the sky a lot sooner than you plan to. And we will have a shortage of your entertaining videos. See this for evidence, and Goongle for other sources. www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiI2IaQjarYAhVGVLwKHTfKDKMQFgg3MAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ewp.asn.au%2Flibrary%2Ftut_panels%2Fdownloads%2Fwooddust_q_and_a.pdf&usg=AOvVaw39SpyTriayLi7pUXI55I_S The last potential problem concerns the strength of the MDF between the T part of the slot and the surface of the board. Repeated use and/or high clamping pressures will cause the slots to fail upwards, This is why Larry Strayer's commebnt is relevant; aluminium T-track costs a bit more but it is more durable. I suppose it all depends upon what you intend to do with your machine, and how often you do it. For light duty work your solution is more than adequate. If, however, you plan to use high tool pressures or do large runs, Larry's answer might be better. Note that these statements are just comments, not criticisms, which is why I close with a "Just sayin'."

[@WesleyTreat]

I use the slots only for clamping. I can't imagine why I would use them for positioning. Also, I use a mask when working with MDF or any other wood. Thanks!

[@darktermi1993]

what wood is that?

[@AcrimoniousMirth]

What if all I have to hand is a CNC?

[@waldvogelreview7755]

I have to ask, Wouldnt the "Easy" way to be to get the thing setup and route the channels using the CNC? That way its guaranteed to be inline with the Y-axis as well?

[@WesleyTreat]

The machine's cutting area is smaller than the wasteboard.

[@waldvogelreview7755]

Wouldn't it only deny you to 2 outer slots when you are cutting at full capacity?

[@WesleyTreat]

The wasteboard extends beyond the cutting area on all four sides. You can't cut to the edge of the wasteboard.

[@XxFuzzballsxX]

Did you buy extra hardware to offset the removal of the Inventables Wasteboatd kit?

[@WesleyTreat]

I believe I did. Looking at my order confirmation, I added 2 each of items 25281-08 and 25286-15, which I think was all I needed to secure the board. I can't be absolutely certain because that was over a year ago, but I think that was it.

[@XxFuzzballsxX]

@@WesleyTreat the fact that you responded to me within 20 minutes is beyond incredible. Thank you kindly!

[@XxFuzzballsxX]

@@WesleyTreat would purchasing additional threaded inserts make sense as well? From what I've seen on forums, the parts you listed as well as the threaded inserts were recommended

[@WesleyTreat]

@@XxFuzzballsxX The threaded inserts are if you want to replicate the clamping system used with the standard wasteboard. They aren't necessary if you want to use T-track.

[@joeygonzo]

Why not just CNC the slots ?

[@WesleyTreat]

Answered in the video description

[@cbcarper9681]

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@Just_An_Idea_For_Consideration]

Why not just purchase slat board that stores use to hang products on their sales walls. It already has a T slot in it. And you can get metal inserts to strengthen the T slots in slat wall.

[@WesleyTreat]

I made that video in an alternate timeline and some wank commented, "Why not just make your own with some cheap MDF and a T-slot bit?"

[@evilutionltd]

Cheap, yeah, easy, errr.....

[@WesleyTreat]

I guess easy is relative, but it's literally just routing straight lines.

[@evilutionltd]

I finally bought and built an X-Carve last week. I made the standard baseboard myself with the 144 holes instead of buying it. Then I bought some aluminium T slot extrusion plate and bolted it to the existing baseboard when required. When I don't use that, I have a sacrificial board that gets bolted down and the CNC'd part is screwed straight to it. The 1st part of the X-Carve instructions were excellent. As soon as it got to fitting belts, it became very poor.

[@momobadilak]

YOU SELL OUT .. oh wait.. I just to the part in the video where.. well you know :) :) :)

[@phonotical]

Crotch dusting 😂 I have to ask, you didn't want to pay shipping on mdf... So the mdf you used, did you carry it home yourself? 😂

[@evonyking]

crotch dusting HAHA

[@justinsnoke7805]

You made the video with the "I'm a whore" comment. Lol

[@thognar]

if only there was some sort of computer-controlled router that could be used to do all that work. Might be easier, faster and more accurate. If only....

[@WesleyTreat]

If only the machine's cutting area extended to the edge of the waste board. If only you had politely asked why I did it this way instead of being snarky. If only you had bothered to read the video description before commenting. If only ...

[@errolfoster1101]

never blow compressed air on you body

[@hiwithaar]

And now throw it away.

[@WesleyTreat]

Why would I do that?