$$ CHEAP vs EXPENSIVE PLUMBING FITTINGS! $$

[@Valleymobwelding]

jesse, also they make valve operator extensions so that you don't need a 12 ft valve wrench. it's just a piece of poly pipe with a female bottom and a male top so you can access the valve just below grade in a box instead of 12 ft deep. just fyi

[@sindrome303]

Jessie I would like to give you 2 tips when putting this all together. No1 and most important Remember to use a flexible pipe where you join into your polly tanks. I have seen so many tanks split, because flexible pipe was not used. No2. Remember to use sand to back fill around your pipe. this is important because if a rock is against your pipe it can wear a hole in the pipe as the pipe expands and contracts at different times of year the temperature of your water will change, causing the pipe to expand and contract. I would love to know if these 2 things have been considered. good luck from down under Mate

[@purelivingforlife]

Already in the plan. Just remember we can't sure every last detail in our videos. People would fall asleep and go comatose. LOL :)

[@dennisalanvids]

He the more info you guys give the more guys like me, a few steps behind you, have in designing their systems :) Really helpful and entertaining videos! I look forward to your videos for both reasons!

[@cjandauntieyaya1446]

Actually, please bore us with the details! Construction 101 tips can be useful to remind us people before we make dumb mistakes.

[@justinwilliams7148]

...they didn't listen.

[@user-MRG1130]

Was it the flex ? They solved the rock issue, by using the same setup you see on Gold Rush. Found channel by recommendation, and it started me towards the end, so I haven't watched everything.

[@gateway8833]

The pressure a water system get when a valve is shut quickly is called Water hammer. This can blow water systems apart with ease. To ensure this does not happen in a household a devise called an Expansion Tank can be used. I would recommend getting a precharged tank but you will need to know your upper control limits of your system. There is another option, a Relief Valve that is built into the system so they open back to the tank are very cheep insurance to have, I put one in because I don't want to rebuild my system, also I am a retired Fire Chief and I've seen alot of destruction from water issues.

[@collinhowell2064]

Just a thought looking at your diagram, if you put the inlet fill pipe into the second tank at the farthest end from the outlet pipe, so that you don't stir up the sediment next to the outlet of the first tank, it also allows for some settlement before it comes out, otherwise every fill will put sediment into the outlet pipe.

[@stellarpod]

Excellent information (as usual). Having worked in the ball valve manufacturing industry for 40+ years I want to pass on an important tip regarding the use of said valves. Ball valves are designed for strictly FULL ON and FULL OFF service. Whenever you operate them, throw them fully 90° to the full on or off position - not anywhere in between. The quickest way to destroy the seat seals in a ball valve is to *throttle* or pinch flow with them. They simply are not designed to handle this. Pinched flow will cause impingement of the seat seal faces over time. Please, please, please do not give in to the temptation of partially opening a ball valve. If you need to throttle flow (as you would with a faucet) there are other valves that are designed specifically for that duty (usually some iteration of a globe valve). Thanks again for the wonderful insight on choosing piping components. Keep up the good work, guys! Steve

[@davesrvchannel4717]

great info. I think a gate valve is what you use to throttle with, I have been out of plumbing for 25 years.

[@dpower02]

Gate valve is for isolation. globe valve for throttling, ball valve for isolation (quick opening 90 deg open/close)

[@crownkevin6406]

Or a Butterfly valve will give rough throttling

[@Mrcaffinebean]

Interesting I never knew that thanks Steve.

[@RelentlessHomesteading]

Well thought out Guys!! Lots of nice details !! Sure is a deep cavern down to where the pipe is - wow. Good luck on trying to unroll the pipe - especially in cold weather. I struggled recently with a roll of 3/4" PEX in my pole barn - I put it in the HOT TUB for some hours to RELAX it -- you might consider that before you try to unroll. You can also quickly make rebar "wickets" - just cut, torch, bend, torch, bend and you have a hoop that can be driven into the ground to hold the pipe down. I can make 6-12 of them in about an hour. We have a few runs of 4" drain pipes going down our hill to reduce erosion (lots of landslides here) and use these wickets to stake the pipe down along its run. Poly is a great way to go - strong and resistant to freezing. That large size is wonderful to prevent drops in pressure. Our place has buried poly 1000' to well house, then 200' to the house, but they only put in 1", argghhh !! So it would be difficult to get much pressure for gravity feed (stuck with pressure pump requiring electricity), and too difficult for us to dig up and replace at this time. All the best in this battle for a hot shower. RH

[@elliottmanning]

Just looked at your new "Building" photos and video site this morning. You folks have really done your home work, love your thinking and planing. So glad to see that all of your plumbing is on inside walls!!! This will protect your system from the harsh Winter weather in the feature. One added comment; don't wast any time or money on cheap China nails. Out of a 50 pound box of China nails, half of them bent over on me! Get and use quality USA nails. Looking forward to following your journeys...

[@jeffery19677]

Go with the spigot at the hot tub. During the summer, you can rinse off with a shower head before getting in the hot tub.. A word of advice, put TWO shut off valves on every branch.. Just in case you need to rework that line or repair a faucet in the house or RV. "If you're cool enough to have a lady like this..." Smart man! MAKE SURE she knows you appreciate her. Many of us wish we had one that would share the dream like she does.

[@libertysbeacon]

We have a system like this we've been using for more than fifteen years. We used PVC, and suspect phantom leaks due to the many connections, so I second the idea of using one long piece of poly. Also, please take their advice and have a valve/spout which will quickly empty the tanks. We did this, and have been grateful many times we did. Over time, sediment will build up in your pipes, and having the ability to flush them once or twice a year keeps the system working. The newest addition to our system is the RasberryPi pump controller I built. Used together with relays and a sensor, the RPi controls the pump, and heat lamps in a couple places which can be especially vulnerable to extreme cold. The RPi uses less than 5 watts, and can be infinitely configured over wifi.

[@chadthorne9251]

I appreciate the effort being put into these videos.

[@purelivingforlife]

Thanks Chad!

[@TomNook77]

I feel like your guy's channel will blow up soon. Such good content, great quality, great personalities!

[@fentonvarney7469]

I would suggest that you put the fill line into one tank and supply line out of the 2nd tank. It will significantly reduce the turbulence in the supply line.

[@lauraleeg25]

You all manage to make what I would normally find educational ("boring", lol) light hearted and entertaining, thanks for the info and presentation! Love your channel 😀

[@MylesNicholas]

We have used the thick poly pipe for underground ducts between buildings. A draw rope of twice the length is used to add cables from either end. I remember pulling 32 copper pair cable so easily for a data link at one job.

[@kriskath7040]

Your poly compression fittings have two major drawbacks when backfilled over. 1. Seasonal temp changes can affect the fitting its self and lead to leaks .. usually small but over time can lead to washout or sink holes. 2. If you do get leaks in your system, roots will be drawn to that water source and penetrate into your fittings; damaging or even plugging them up.

[@hankumanszyski5463]

Should you have 2 main ball valves in-line in case one fails? I.E. Will you lose all you water if one gets stuck open?

[@andrewnorth2976]

I'd put the inlet in the left tank on your schematic and the outlet in the right tank, at the moment you have a danger of stagnant water in the left tank and also a risk of legionella

[@PlanePreacher]

I would suggest you fill in the top rear of the back tank and draw out as you have shown from the front of the front tank. Depending on how quick you fill the tank as you have it drawn you will be pushing/pumping old water back into the rear tank and continuing to do this over time the water in the rear tank will begin to get stale. Also did you consider NSF rating?

[@woodystrains3682]

Jesse, the first thing at the bottom of the hill should be a shut off valve. That way you can shut off the water to work in the distribution manifold or things after it without running up the hill to turn it off and then draining the downhill run of pipe. I made that mistake ONCE.

[@philipcooper4136]

I don't know if anyone else has noted this but your fill line connection should be on the second cistern to encourage a cross flow between the cisterns, it helps to keep he water wholesome. wishing you well with your project and regards from a plumber from across the pond...

[@elliottmanning]

You are really getting a lot of good advice on your projects from pros that have decades of experience in their fields!!!

[@tim_bbq1008]

yikes! Allysa, you are in a very dangerous place at 12:21. The risk of sidewall failure is great. Please don't do that again.

[@LumnahAcres]

I bet having a gravity feed system over a well with pump is going to be really nice in the long run. What is going to be your water source?

[@adambaldwin8692]

just an idea i'm an electrician...you might run some under ground romex in the trench before you cover it up...you may never use it but if you need b power at the top of the hill it will come in handy later.

[@pedcraftsman]

Thank you for you time and energy you place into the data you share. WOW

[@m4geman2]

very informative video, im not sure if this was in the schematic but on your overflow pipe you will want a screen on it just to ensure you get no bugs going into your tank

[@henk-janvisser3508]

I would put spare electrical wiring into the trench as well, for when you want to power something up there.

[@algray2604]

thanks for the schooling you broke this segment down very nicely.

[@diversifiedacreshomestead102]

I really hope that when your laying that pipe, you remember the trench falling in part of this video. When the temperature changes in the spring will cause it to fall worse. In that deepest part that you showed Alisa standing in about 10 ft deep trench. One would die before another could dig one out. In your area I would not take any chances in anything over 3 ft deep.

[@purelivingforlife]

Thanks for the concern and reminders. Every project around here comes with so much risk of injury.

[@extremepicks]

Diversified Acres Homestead nn

[@extremepicks]

Diversified Acres Homestead

[@shaniaa9287]

You explain the options so well, I really appreciate all the time and effort you put into your videos. Thank you so much

[@JCAJCA3]

I also appreciate the time, effort, quality and content. Great job, JC

[@ZeoCyberG]

Didn't see it anywhere in your plans but if you add rain water catchment then you'd need a first flush system added to filter out the sediments, debre, etc. While modern building codes are starting to require fire sprinklers for residential housing now... Would make dealing with fires easier if you plan for that as well... But things like kitchen range hood vents can also have fire extinguisher packs installed as well and are better for dealing with things like oil fires...

[@thomascrouch6135]

You made a great presentation, and it should help a lot of other people. Don't forget to put in an expansion chamber in the system.

[@TheSpindrift76]

hey great job again with the video. I gave a small back up system but it's nice to see your set up. I'm waiting to see if you talk about filters and grey water management later on.

[@richardsmith5001]

Fill the one on the left (Input) and your output should be on the one on the right, or vice versa. Prevents long standing water. Its how twin potable water tanks are linked here. Probably forgotten as gravity systems here have given way to high pressure sealed systems. Im sure you have looked into this but your main vent will need to be a good size to prevent vacuum if a lot of water is drawn out quickly. I do not know what ratio you would need. Ps I help a gamekeeper out here in the uk, a lot of his pheasant drinkers are plumbed with black alkathene (similar but may not be exact same science)as the pipe you show there and can say grey squirrels love to chew it. Thanks for sharing your video's.

[@MylesNicholas]

Pads around your temp sheds and cabin etc. of one inch rocks allows the rain and sand to pass through and voila no more puddles.

[@MylesNicholas]

Do you plan a snow harvesting pond? Just a pond that can have the water runoff from mounds of unwanted snow you have piled. BTW small country towns here have rainwater areas made from rolls of black plastic and covered with 1 inch rock pebbles. They don't have weeds as there is no soil. So they stand out from the forest.

[@hepeteresen3178]

Amazing, thought I knew something about plumbing. Guess not. Thanks for the info. You are some hard working people. Keep up the good work.

[@dpower02]

A couple of items to help, SDR 11 is a measure of the thickness of plastic pipe the SDR is the Standard Density Ratio and a SDR11 is plastic pipe comparable to schedule 40 steel pipe, basically the Outside and Inside diameters of the pipe are close to same. Also on the poly pipe check the temperature rating of your pipe the pressure rating drops as temperature increases most stamped ratings on pipe is at 60 degrees F, typical hot water heater is set for 180 degrees F at outlet. In order to stop water hammer keep your velocity flow of water below 10 feet per second. The real measure of static head is that 27.7 inches of water gives 1 pound per square inch (27.7 inches = 1 psi) that will give you your static head (change in elevation). You also need to account for friction against flow which is sometimes more than you think for a SDR11 3/4 inch pipe 100 feet long with a velocity of ~10 feet per second can have friction flow loss of 22 psi. (Reference - Crane Technical Paper 410-C Appendix B-14). Just happened to be using this info today.

[@purelivingforlife]

Sweet! Thanks!

[@gordonreed248]

You need to get a basic CAD. By the time I got around to planning plumbing I already had a decent CAD program. In my earliest days, I was using graph paper and pencil for simple floor plans but as time went by I found I was spending as much time re-drawing those basic floor plans as I was spending thinking about what features I wanted to have and what changes I needed to make. When you have a CAD you can take the parts of a drawing that you like and set those parts aside then take your new consideration, whatever it is, and tie it in with almost no effort. You end up treating the part of a design that you like as a component that you then tie in to whatever change you think you want. When I was laying out my drain system I found that the required cleanouts and such to be built on the system could be drawn on the system and then just be connected together. I even could draw to scale so I could know whether or not I had room both vertically and horizontally for the nominal drop in a pipe to ensure it drains properly. It beats the heck out of making connections just hoping that drain angles and such are good. I use a program called DesignCad but there are equally useful CAD programs out there that would serve the same purpose. I use that particular program because it still uses most of the drawing command keystrokes that I learned when I was using their DOS version back in the windows 3.1.1 days.

[@michaelstepp8883]

talking about making the system simple you don't need a seperate fill line you can fill it with the same 2 inch line you have coming down from the storage tanks. The only thing you will need then is a pump that will over come the head pressure which you will still need filling it with a seperate fill line and then the tank will need to be vented so that as you are putting water in it can push the air out of the tank. It needs to be vented for draining water as well... but planning for future expansion especially with your hill is a must but I do enjoy the channel keep up the good work

[@michaelstepp8883]

no it will actually work, I work for a water utility and we have 3 water tanks two of them are 500,000 gallons and the other one is 300,000 gallons and all three storage tanks are filled and drained with one line.

[@michaelstepp8883]

I have been nothing but a faithful subscriber watching all new videos trying to go back and watch the older ones, I click the like button for you, and I even click on every ad link to help support the channel. I love the channel, love the content and I am sorry but a comment like "False, Think about it a little longer" is uncalled for I know that there are people that post a lot of crap on your channel that is usless. However before making a comment like that you should see if it is true or not. I have been in the business for over five years and had my distribution license during this time. Now I am a part of only a small distribution system when you are talking water utilities and we only serve about 3,300 customers but I know for a fact it would work. Sorry I really try not to complain but this was uncalled for and kinda hurt...

[@rbphilip]

I have "city" water even though I'm semi-rural. Nonetheless this is more than fascinating. I can homestead vicariously through you two. :) Also, you sent me off into the weeds with IPS and CTS. I didn't know at all about that. Pipe is hard!

[@JohnSmith-yy8gk]

Will you go with a well or rain catchment? I hope you stumble across a spring or seep on your property, it will save you a fortune. Have you scouted for one? Often if it is on your neighbors property and you get along they wont mind letting you put a spring box in. Hope all is well with you and yours.

[@tropifiori]

Why not dig a well and put a solar or wind driven pump on it? You could eventually also bury a cistern near the house and run your gutters into it for gardens etc.

[@TheWatchit45]

You got to film the unrolling of the 2" snake. You think the trenching was hard. Tip; leave the pipe in a warm place for 24 hour ahead of the battle of the snake. Good luck and thank you for the detailed video.

[@thechronicgeneralist]

Awesome summary! I love the mood in your videos. Great job with the music & editing! :)

[@johngilbert9553]

This is informative on so many levels. thanks The breezy style is fun too.

[@TiBliRoN]

another thing to consider if you want to save money on outdoor plumbing, is plastic welding. for refrance; a 90degree 2" SDR11 T coupler is ablout 17 freedom dollars after 25% tax, at least in norway. it's super simple and the weld is stronger than the pipe itself (according to manufacturer). only downside is it requires a special machine, which is extremely expensive. however you should be able to find a dealer or a plumber that will lend you the machine. GF and plasson are the main manufacturer afaik. oh and btw PE100(HDPE) SDR11 is overkill for 30psi. it's rated for 16bar/230psi with a security factor of at least X1.5 when i pressure test a SDR11/PN16 system i test with 21bars/300psi!

[@MrRain-hk4zi]

Good job on the research and sharing of the information you guys gave in an entertaining and creative format. I have worked extensively in the water treatment and distribution field and this will be handy for the do it yourself-er.

[@kanel123boller]

You guys really put a lot of effort into getting the water systems properly built for your current home! Are you planning on using this water system for your future house?

[@kanel123boller]

If you watched a video of two Norwegians discussing something in Norwegian, how much would you be able to understand? I´m fairly happy with understanding 99% of what is being said in an English video. But thank you very much for letting me know where I can find the answer to my question. :-)

[@Valleymobwelding]

jesse, I'm a poly pipe fitter in the natural gas industry, if you want to butt fusion that poly together let me know I've got the tools and can help you. great video!

[@MrMarkraffaele]

Binge watched several episodes today. Great effort.

[@Davebaker364]

If you run it down to your present location will it have to be done all over again to your new house?

[@robertallen7106]

Only one quick question have you asked if this black plastic piping is going to have the plastic taste in your drinking water

[@canesrock82]

I'm still waiting on how you chose your property. Not to be critical, but water (i.e. spring, creek, river) I would have thought would have been a major buying point. Idaho, given time you can find with either or both.

[@timsjobring5456]

great question... i would love ask the same question? That would be close to the highest priority for me when choosing a property

[@TheRomanWolf]

Does it not depend on how much rain/snow water you can harvest? I presume (and I'm no expert) that you bore any piece of (large enough) land to get water, if you really wanted to. But interested in why this one, and how they are going to go for water long term, since there's no rainwater catchment area..

[@canesrock82]

Roman you never try to rely on rain or snow melt off. It is different every year. The area where they live there are plenty of land with springs, creeks, or rivers. Up to this point they haven't shared their thought process on their land purchase.

[@canesrock82]

You are going to pay for water either with the land purchase, or once you start developing it. You never get away from that. Its high risk if there is no spring or well on it to start with.

[@purelivingforlife]

purelivingforlife.com/finding-land-for-homestead/

[@jodeum2]

I don't think you mentioned this. Have you calculated what the expected water pressure should be from the height you'll be dropping down? I don't remember you saying the cistern's elevation before. Was just curious. Guessing you have since you talked about the different psi ratings on the poly and what you decided to go with.

[@bmxion]

How do I know if it is a quality bulkhead fitting?

[@alec4672]

If your actually serious about those warranties put some clear coat over those numbers and some painters tape or something to keep the uv light off them. a burst line is a crap time but not being able to claim the warranty is even worse.

[@kaymazurik5621]

You guy are so motivational....thank you for all your hard work! Do you worry about the taste of your water being effected by the pvc or poly pipe or do you plan on buying drinking water?

[@purelivingforlife]

Find me one house that has plumbing that isn't plastic. :) It's not a worry.

[@jeremystewart6199]

no plastic in my house, all copper and brass. so there is your one.

[@josemadrid.1112]

Hey how's ur back, r u any better? good luck on everything.

[@crisrose9707]

i reckon you should not only set up rain water harvesting but also snow that melts. given the flooding you guys had when all the snow melted you could easily fill your tanks and more with all the snow.

[@theineffablehomestead3378]

I am not looking forward to this stuff this year on my own property. I have to set up some sort of water cistern and water line from my pond to the cistern. A lot of no fun for sure. Especially since I am going to need to pump up to the top of a hill that has some nice rock out crops to deal with. I am hoping I can go around the hill to the other side for a shorter distance and use the decrease in elevation to use a ram pump to get the water to the top of the hill. But we will see how things turn out this spring. It doesn't help that I have moved my house building plans up to this spring either. It means I will be rushing and working a lot tighter schedule to get things done. Hopefully I wont run into too many delays and schedule problems.

[@purelivingforlife]

+The Ineffable Homestead Sounds like we won't hear from you for a while! Lol! ;)

[@theineffablehomestead3378]

Well, I will hopefully be posting a lot of videos of what I am doing. So there will be that. But I suspect I will make time to watch your videos and comment still. Last year I learned the value of going into town and relaxing at the Co op and watching videos from youtube. Getting a little down time as well as getting out and socializing is important.

[@GoodDayFarm]

Great video! Thanks for sharing all that information! Take care you two!

[@davidcasper8923]

Is this black poly pipe okay for potable water?

[@james6794]

yes, bottled water often has a HDPE cap "recycle code 2"

[@hisiderafter]

Check with your local plumbing supply and look into butt fusion welding on that pipe instead of the mechanical fittings / joints. Just to be informed before you do the install.

[@TheAwesomeHomestead]

man, I wish I had the money that you guys have. we're getting all of our water from a creak.

[@benallen2967]

Welding PE pipe is easy and fast if you rent the machine. You have a few fittings but its good to let others know.

[@dananelson3534]

Awesome videos guys. Love schematics, can even spell it without a dictionary. Hot showers indeed, that's how you get the cold out your bones, don't ask me how I know. Thanks for posting. Appreciate all the effort in making these. A lot of hard work.

[@wilcojuffer5940]

I like how Jessie make the drawings I do it also , later I look again and make some modificatie very nice. Greating from Wilco at Emmen the Netherlands

[@rafiqa11]

very informative. thank you so much. much love and god,s peace be with you both. and p.s. down the line when your main projects are finished...you may want to consider a waterfall, pond for those lovely rocks, which are very expensive in the city.

[@benlawton5420]

Why not have a air buffer type thing like on a ram pump to stop it from hammering.

[@johnschlich5505]

have thought of a good way to protect the pipe you have a lot of rock. are you putting sand around the pipe or something else

[@purelivingforlife]

Double encasing.

[@asfix1000]

you guys rock, thank you for your videos and ideas in them... greetings from serbia

[@chadmitchell4]

Hey Guys what method do you use for the pipe to Mains Tap attachment. Just noticed it was a plain non spurred possibly internal fitting connection. Do you need a activator/primer and glue? Cheers Looks brilliant by the way.

[@purelivingforlife]

I had that in the video but deleted it. It's a Saddle branch tee. Simple connection. No glue. The rubber seal completes the connections. VERY high precision fittings.

[@Prometheus203]

They actually sell a plumbing fitting called a water hammer or water shock arrestor to prevent water hammer shock from damaging your plumbing.

[@JosephClatterbuck]

Consider only joining the tanks at the top, twice, with one connections slightly above the other. Tank 1 fills, and spills over into Tank 2, which then fills, and has an overflow out the other side. this lets you keep a higher overall water head... Which doesn't matter because you're doing this at the top of a hill... I just realized this.

[@larryfromlincolncountywa3989]

And you guys haven't even gotten into the "house-build-arena" yet. ;) Its all an adventure, though, and I envy you the chance/ability to "go there". Gonna be following you as long as you choose to share that quest with your KZbin friends. Keep 'em coming!!

[@robeylemere]

That Altec bucket truck at 0:33 I might have worked on that dinosaur! It looks like it has one of my inspection stickers on the pedestal lol.

[@royamberg9177]

job well done. buy quality and it will last and work properly

[@Pprez.69]

Great and informative videos, thank you guys and great work.

[@joshabell9349]

Fun editing in this one! What happened with the trench?

[@damien88able]

you two are amazing KEEP IT UP!!!

[@ConorMakes]

Hi guys hope your both well. I'm just putting this out there as an idea. If your filling one tank from another surely you will get far less sediment in the second tank? Would it be better to have your outlet from the second tank? This is just what I'm thinking I'm no expert, you or maybe someone else could add to this. Cheers for the videos guys well apart from that music lol

[@purpguy69]

At twelve feet underground, you'll want that city valve in a cement access box to withstand any cave in pressure.

[@morrow.m]

That was so interesting. I'd never considered poly pipe in a roll like that. Good idea.

[@purelivingforlife]

Ask us once it's unrolled. LOL

[@morrow.m]

Pure Living for Life 🤓😬 yeah... That's true! Really enjoying y'alls channel. Thanks for sharing all y'all do!

[@bradandersen4811]

You are going to need some help for manhandling 2". I know you are in a hurry, but it is something you want nice and warm before trying to unroll. Even with using equipment to back fill, it still takes 3 guys on flat ground to get this stuff in the ditch. 2 guys on the roll and 1 to lay it in the ditch.. A propane torch is going to be your go to tool for heating and bending this stuff to your will. Once you get down to the 3/4 why use plastic compression fittings? Spears brand insert fittings and double hose clamps will out last you and I. I think 3/4 is undersized for any runs over 100 ft from your junction box due to friction loss. Could lose a lot of PSI which you don't have much to spare. I would only use brass Ts and elbows under any hydrants you are going to install. Plastic fittings at these spots breaks at the slightest tap with a lawn mower or ground settling. You have already invested in the materials, so its a bit late to go back, but I would have suggested PVC in your case due to the terrain you are dealing with. I saw you had an ATV with a winch, you might consider staking it at one end, rolling it out down on your driveway and then winching it up the hill already unrolled. All too familiar with this as my family is in the rural water business.

[@SheepyHollowCanada]

Water hammer is when the flow suddenly stops. The velocity the fluids flows is like a tsunami ... try stopping that with a value... boom!

[@purelivingforlife]

Could make a fun video! :)

[@eyesopenwideawake7057]

Thank you! I learned new things today!

[@jokurandomi778]

How will you build your system to stand up cold weathers?

[@ForwardGuidance]

The temp is the same all year just 40 or so inches from ground level so no freezing or anything. They can insulate the pipe coming out of the ground and into the house.

[@purelivingforlife]

BIngo!

[@theoldwizard998]

So where was the $8K savings ? What do estimate the water pressure will be at the bottom of the hill ?

[@TokyoCraftsman]

Maybe Brass vs Poly?

[@woodsyfeller5995]

figure .5 pounds of pressure for each 1 feet of rise. So if the cistern is 50 feet up the hill they will get 25 pounds of pressure at the bottom spigot. To get more pressure would require a pump.

[@ForwardGuidance]

Not just a pump, would need a pump and an expansion tank so every time one needs water the pump doesn't have to come on. I forget typical household pressure, easy internet would generate it surely, but I know pump alone isn't the driving force.

[@Prometheus203]

Typical pressure varies from 30 to 90 psi. The bladder tank does nothing to add to the pressure in the system, it acts like a capacitor storing pressure which was output by the pump. The primary purpose of a bladder tank is to decrease the pumps duty cycle and will make it last substantially longer if its sized appropriately.

[@purelivingforlife]

Head is 70 feet. .43 psi/ft = 30 psi. Savings is in choosing a pipe/connection system that is quality, but affordable. Equivalent brass fitting system would be approx 4-5x the price.

[@r3x2b0]

Why can't your drain line and fill line be the same pipe?

[@hdhptv539]

Hey Great videos!! I'm Just wondering are you guys Sponsored by Carhartt?

[@nathandean1687]

should treat the tops as vents to help with water flow.

[@mizzialmansoob6063]

Can't wait to see more new videos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@jeffryrichardson9105]

Put a valve instead of a cap so it is easier to go to the house. 👍🏼 ❤️ 🇺🇸 sorry I meant to say I would put a valve in not a cap! 😀

[@RogerGallant]

Great video, very informative.

[@stevelinbergbaby135]

ever consider a water tower?

[@Lochlee]

Another Great video guys! Thanks :)

[@benscoles5085]

as much as I like water rams, I am glad you have not used any of them, they actually waste water to produce the POWER effect, , and it can be a bit tricky to recover that water, , another ''just remember point'', the pressure of water can be adjusted in the trip to your house, by the fall, and length of the pipe, and reductions in pipe size, and restricting the flow within the pipe, big pipe to smaller pipe over a long length, will increase pressure, and that flow can be restricted in the pipe to slow the flow, , just the natural physics of this can get pretty complicated, , , turn on the kitchen sink faucet, and blow out the bottom of the sink or have more pressure than the innards of the faucet can hold back.

[@sandracunningham2689]

I hope your back is feeling better. Once you lose your back life s miserable. A lot of knowledgeable folks commenting.

[@samanthanicholson9015]

can you send me your video link about the adress you had to do your driveway for, thanks