Cheap Joe's 2 Minute Art Tip - 3M Scotch Positionable Mounting Adhesive

[@honestly8015]

Thank you so much, Julie, for this very informative demonstration of how to use the mounting adhesive. Your explanation was clear and concise and kudos to the camera person as well for such good shots. Look forward to more from you.

[@johngraham9878]

Very informative video - completely solved my dilemma on how to mount photos on mat boards for wall display. So great - thanks!

[@_WillCAD_]

I used to use this stuff a lot for mounting large format drawings for meetings and exhibitions. It's a great product. I used a different method for mounting large items, though. First, use a board that's bigger than the work to be mounted. Once mounted, trim the work and the board together to get the cleanest, sharpest edge. Instead of putting the adhesive on the artwork, put the adhesive on the board, then use the burnisher to burnish the crap out of it, with as much force as possible. I mean, really put your muscles into it. Once the adhesive is stuck to the board, lay the artwork on top and make marks at all four corners, then set the work aside. Use an X-acto to cut the adhesive's backing paper just a smidge larger than the artwork, no more than 1/16 of an inch. Also score a line about two inches from one end, forming a small strip that that can be taken off to act as a starter strip. Lay the work out again and hold it still with one hand (if it's a really large piece, a friend can help at this point). Roll up the end of the work over the starter strip, and peel the starter strip. Then roll the work gently down onto the starter strip. Check position one last time, and use a brayer roller with a protective slip sheet to press the work onto the starter strip. Now, roll up the rest of the work toward the starter strip. Peel the remaining adhesive backing, and slowly unroll the work onto the exposed adhesive. Once it's down, use the brayer and slip sheet to press the rest of the work into the adhesive. Start from the starter strip and work away from it, go slowly and move in the same direction always, to avoid bubbles and wrinkles. When mounting really large work like posters, or when mounting really thin work like cheap poster paper, it's best to remove the adhesive backing in small strips first, instead of all at once. After the two-inch starter strip, cut the adhesive backing with an X-acto about every eight to twelve inches, and remove one piece at a time, unroll the work onto the exposed adhesive, and bray it down lightly. Once the entire work has been unrolled onto exposed adhesive, go back and bray it down harder, starting at the starter strip end and working away from the starter strip. Don't forget the slip sheet, or the roller could damage the surface of the work. After the work has been adhered and well brayed, use a straight edge and a foam board or matt cutter to trip the board and the work at the same time. If the work is too valuable to trim, then you can trim the board exactly to the edge of the work, but that's a lot harder than it sounds. A steel straight edge is preferred, to prevent bowing during the cut, and it's often necessary to tape the ends of the straight edge to the table to hold it tightly in position while you cut, otherwise it will shift.

[@sparrowrabbit]

Thank you for that great lesson. It is wonderful to learn that I can dry mount a print without having to get a big heated dry mount press and iron.

[@hawaiirealmedia5610]

Thank you. Didn't know this stuff existed!

[@NeilShapiro]

Good video...the iconic instructions that come with the package aren't clear. But I got some of the adhesive stuck to the printed side of release paper, which will create problems using it for burnishing. Do you know where there are replacement sheets? Or substitutes?

[@keithgegg997]

thanks for the video!