1962 Triumph TR4 Engine Rebuild Series, Assembly, Part 1

We have been slowly working on the 1962 Triumph TR4 Engine Rebuild when time permits....its taken a little while to get things back together, but we are getting closer to firing her back up!

[@MrMikeyspfx]

Good video guys,was wondering where you had gone Cheftush,great to have you back.

[@DavesTR4A]

The engine block looks great! Waiting to hear some noise👍

[@davidwarr8600]

Nice build. I must have missed the thrust washer measurement. Looking forward to the start up.

[@cheftush]

Didn’t actually show the measurement, just wanted to mention that we were doing it and that it’s part of the process not to be overlooked.

[@crasbee]

Nice to see you're back at it again :)

[@TR4Ajim]

I think I know why David works more at the Rusty Beauties shop. Ever since he made his garage so pristine, he doesn’t want to mess it up!👍😉

[@cheftush]

More likely I can’t find anything 😉

[@barry6274]

Nice job getting together and in place. Looking forward to itrunning well

[@jamcdona]

I think I may be more upset than you are about the camshaft, Dave! I really want you to have the fast road cam :( But even more, I want the company to fix their mistake so others don't get screwed also. I need to calm down LOL :D I've noticed that for an old technology engine, the TR4 and TR6 engines need more skills to work on than later engines from Germany or USA. Math and measuring is involved :P Anyway, thanks for taking the time to document this build, I love it!

[@jamcdona]

Oh yeah, can you clear something up- are the piston rings supposed to be part of a set, already gapped for you to the liners? It sounded like that was the case- great idea but...did they get it right? Sounds like they are gapped to wide? Your intuition is better than mine, so I'd like to know your thoughts...

[@cheftush]

@@jamcdona hi John, yes, these rings were included in the Piston and Liner set as a boxed package. You’d think that they were be better right? The gaps are far too wide…about .05 too wide so pretty disappointing. I didn’t want to wait for two weeks to get another set, so we went with these.

[@rickdaniel8478]

Great job guys! Zoom zoom 😂

[@6isenough161]

Looks great. Measure 50 times and install 20 times. Nice work.

[@craigwiest772]

Great to see you’re back. This is a great project for me to watch since I have an engine in need of a rebuild. Can’t wait to hear it run.

[@peteredwards9147]

Great content and team work you guys. The car still looks good

[@holger5555]

I think Cheftush is living in the Rusty Beauties Garage, he more there than at his home. 😂 The engine is good now, only the body is bad, I hope it will fix some day. I´m not a fan of red cars but this is the right color for this car, it looks great.

[@cheftush]

Agreed…I’m either at my real job working or in the rusty beauties shop…occasionally, I go home to cut the grass 😉

[@holger5555]

@@cheftush 😁👍

[@alanm.4298]

I haven't tried it yet, but have seen it suggested to use Lucas Oil Stabilizer as an engine building lube, especially when engines are being gradually built over days, weeks, or months. That's the thick, gooey stuff, which is what makes it ideal for this purpose since it stays where you put it... doesn't drain off the way thin engine building lube or plain engine oil does over time. Plus the Lucas stuff mixes well with the break-in oil once the engine is started. Of course, thanks to the design of the Triumph engine, using a drill to turn the oil pump and push oil throughout the engine before start-up probably makes this much less of a concern. Anyone used that Lucas goo this way? My only concern is how the cam/lifter breqk-in might be affected (I wouldn't use it on the cam lobes or lifters themselves... but it will circulate there fairly quickly). P.S. I don't really believe in using it regularly in engine oil. Once it mixes with the rest of the engine oil, it seems like it would just increase viscosity. Why not just use a higher viscosity oil?

[@cheftush]

I’m using the red permatex assembly lube that’s pretty thick and sticky. I have used a cam “ zinc paste” before as well on a TR6 engine build.

[@graemelliott3942]

Let’s get crackalack’n❤

[@indyme2]

Happy to see you back on the TR4 and making progress. Did you have the crankshaft machined for the different rear seal? Any kind of sealer between the jugs and block? Did you install the engine and tranny as one unit or separately? I just picked up another TR3. It's a good parts car and very complete with side wings and a roll bar, lol. The part time day job has been full time since Spring but should taper off when schools start again in late August. Keep the videos coming Tush. Can't get enough!

[@cheftush]

Howdy! There are a couple of types of conversions for the rear seals. This one keeps the stock scroll, so no machining required to that area. That figure 8 gasket, plus aviation form a gasket on the jugs and the block surface are all that is required. We installed the engine and trans as 1 unit, but it can be done either way…if you do it as one unit, you will need a good tilting mechanism on your engine hoist ( I have an oberg tilt lift). I’m looking forward to your TR3 videos! Can’t wait.

[@indyme2]

@@cheftush Are you tilting from to rear or left to right? Do you have a part number for the seal you used? Moss item? Thanks!

[@cheftush]

@@indyme2 no, tilting front to back…the engine needs to go in at a very steep angle to clear the steering rack and then the rear bulkhead if you are installing the engine and trans together. Let me look for the seal number.

[@cheftush]

@@indyme2 mossmotors.com/837-160-t24-t5-rear-main-seal-conversion-kit?queryID=ed12a3bb18a0b9fb6cbb02237a7de87e&objectID=410492&indexName=live_default_products

[@indyme2]

@@cheftush Thank you, Sir.

[@Michaeld-jk4kv]

You guys work great together. Engine is looking good! Do you have the part number/source (Moss?) for the over sized head gasket? I've always had 87mm in my TR4A (and used the copper gasket), but decided to try the 89mm this time. Never had any overheating issues with the 87mm driving it in SoCal. Hope I don't experience that with the 89mm, but I thinking about running an oil cooler this time, so maybe that will help.

[@thierryl0]

hi Cheftush what is the difference between standart crankshaft and fast road for exemple ?is the camshaft degreeing process is different ?thanks

[@cheftush]

@@thierryl0 higher lift and duration on the fast road vs stock camshaft. The same principles apply to timing. Each new cam should come with a “cam card” that will tell you the specifics of your cam and the values at which you need to set it up..

[@thierryl0]

@@cheftush thank you for reply!you and elyn do very good work....i've got A tr4 coming from canada !and lot of work on it because of rust ...kind regards

[@craigwiest772]

Is there a reason you chose 87mm rather than 89mm pistons and liners?

[@cheftush]

Absolutely..the larger liners bring more issues as far as overhearing is concerned, especially the 89’s.

[@craigwiest772]

@@cheftush good to know.

[@remcotissink]

Love your vids, love the cars but you got to work a bit on your music choice...

[@cheftush]

What would you prefer?

[@remcotissink]

@@cheftush Oscar Peterson, Marcus MiIler, Charlie Watts, Bird... Hope you get the inspiration haha... 😉

[@cheftush]

@@remcotissink ok. I’m a big Oscar fan…I’ll see if I can get some non copyrighted material….

[@remcotissink]

@@cheftush That may be difficult but looking forward anyway ;)

[@BruceBoschek]

Nice engine. Seems a shame to put it in a car with a ruined plaint job😢. 😅

[@RustyBeauties]

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