Chevy Colorado How to Remove a Stuck Rotor, Hub, ABS Sensor, Calliper, Pads.. Everything! GMC Canyon

[@daveortiz352]

I've only watched 5 minutes so far but you're already my favorite KZbin mechanic.

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks David...that means a lot You Rock!

[@victoralcantar86]

@@cantletherdiediy1050 q

[@rebeckadoss4350]

I be sun of a gun. I've been two days trying to get that hub loose. Finally a video that shows something useful. Time to give this method a whirl. Thanks a ton man.

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Yes Rebecka, that hub can feel almost impossible to get off. I hope my method helps. Cheers!

[@jhonduque899]

Hi, i just want to thank you i fix a Colorado 2006 using your explanation it was so easy with the two screw and nuts as a puller. Awesome!

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

That's the great thing about KZbin. We can help each other. We are all in this together. Feel free to share your tips and tricks people :)

[@RonaldFrazier1]

OMG! You are a genius! I love the bolt technique for removing the hub. I changed one of my hubs 5 years ago. I spent 3 or 4 hours trying to hammer it free with both a mini-sledge and a slide hammer. Nothing worked. I finally called my brother (who does body work for a living). He used a hydraulic tool with a spreader attachment to break it free, pretty much the same way you did with the bolts. 5 years later, and now I'm having to change the other side. I went through the same insanity as last time. And I've been pondering my choices. Drive an hour to borrow his hydraulic spreader and then another hour to return it, or drive an hour to buy my own from harbor freight for $150 (which I'll probably never use again unless I do my hubs again). I decided to look for more videos and found yours. I only had to drive 15 minutes and spend $5 to get the bolts from Home Depot. I'll admit, the hydraulic spreader was easier than the bolts, but this felt more rewarding. Thank you!!!! Edit: oh yeah, and I loved seeing you do everything FOR REAL. So many other videos...you can see they spent all the time to get stuff loosened, and then when it's time for the video, everything just comes apart nicely.

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Hey Ronald, Thanks for the Great Comment! The bolt trick works well and its fun to watch it pop off knowing how hard it is to pound and pound with a hammer. I hear you about keeping it REAL. I agree 100%. Although it is humbling, I try to show my mistakes as well so the viewer will know how to avoid them. I'm so glad my video helped you out. It's nice to hear the feedback about how I helped people. Cheers my friend!

[@bobbywilson4732]

I have fought with removing my front rotor for 2 days. This video was awesome. Thank you so much very descriptive. Hope I never have to do this job again. LOL

[@ryancrisler5171]

Thank you sir!! Your videos have helped my son and I fix up his first vehicle. We got him a 2006 Chevy Colorado crew cab, our first project was accomplished because of your videos. Thank you!!

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Ah Man...Thanks. That is Great to Hear! They are nice looking trucks and the more you work on them yourself, the more the truck becomes yours. He has sweat equity in the truck now. Well done Dad!

[@dougheinecken6832]

Highly recommend the bolt trick, makes a world of difference. Just make sure you get quality bolts! They can get under enough tension that the threads may shear. Thanks for this vid, had a general understanding of popping these suckers loose from other cars, kept this vid pulled up just to check along my way! Well filmed, good information and tricks, good additional explanations!

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks for the bolt trick recommendation Doug! Yeah, it's kind of fun when the bolts do all the work and that rotor pops off. I've struggled hours on rotors before learning that little gem. I'm glad you liked it. Cheers!

[@georgiabigfoot]

I really appreciate you and watch all your Colorado videos. Everytime I think I’m done with my 05 Colorado I find one of your vids to help me fix it. I have 416,000 kilometers on mine. Your vids are enjoyable and you feel like an old friend to me. I know if I ever got rid of my OCC (old Chevy Colorado) I wouldn’t need to be watching your vids anymore and would make me sad, as such I plan to keep driving it until it no longer makes sense too. As you know they are so practical and reasonably economical, like you I’m a tall fellow at 6’ 7” but have more headroom in this than I do in a full size pickup. Thanks for your recent tent review, I’m starting my rotor project this coming week. Blessings to you.

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks so much for letting me know that you appreciate my Colorado videos. I'm impressed with your 416,000 kms. You've been a good owner to that Colorado. The headroom and legroom were two of the Big reasons I purchased my truck 18 years ago. The funny thing is...I still love it! I live in a high humidity region where rust usually takes out your vehicle after 10 years so our first generation Colorados are getting rare to see. around here. Its nice to drive a truck that you enjoy and not everyone has. Thanks so Much! Keep on Truck'n Friend. 😀

[@tedlivermore6955]

Hey kinda late to this show but great video man.I just did my 08 Colorado,pressing them out with the bolts worked great(I live in the rust belt).I found I could get those 4 hub bolts with a 3/8 drive ratchet as long you heat the hubs with a torch first. It,s a little easier to get in there with smaller tools.Cheers

[@mikedavid1867]

Just wanted to say thankyou for posting this vid,,, yours was about the only one I could find showing the Colorado 4x4 rotor removal vs the easier 2 wheel version,, your right its a tough job but your tutorial

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks Mike. Yeah the rotor replacement on the 4X4 first generation Colorado is very challenging. It is some sort of right of passage. Those of us that have done it feel your pain Mike. That being said, no one watches their brake pads for wear more than Colorado / Canyon owners who have replaced the rotors once. Keep an eye on your brake pads and you're good to go.! Thanks for the Great Comment!

[@elmerkerth3871]

This video really helps me do my left front man it's replacing everything too I want to thank you

[@michaeloneil433]

This video has helped me massively. Only problem is I couldnt find those dust shields for the life of me. Had to put the crappy rusty ones with more holes than metal back on. Also thankfully mine is only RWD, great video.

[@gregkirkpatrick5982]

Best method I’ve seen. Worked assume thanks.

[@matthewjansick]

This video was so incredibly helpful. Exactly what this DIY Dad needed.

[@chrisbowling27]

Thank you for making the best video on here and making this task alot easier for me. Using the 2 bolts to push hub out is the best way to do it. That's using your head on that. Just a GREAT video all around!!

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks so much Chris. It means a lot to hear comments like yours. Cheers my friend

[@dizzyroberts9789]

Fantastic video that really explains each step out, also appreciate that you don’t hide or edit out the tricky parts where things don’t go as per planned. Great job

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks Dizzy...I appreciate the Great Review

[@tonycotta6602]

Watched another video and made a hub buster worked out great.Saved some time

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks for the Great comment Tony!

[@andyjinkerson967]

I love your videos. I’ve got a 2004 Z71 2WD

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Awesome... nice truck Andy!

[@billnu]

Nice work. Mine is already disassembled, I wish I saw this video first! I did get it with only losing one bolt. And destroying the abs sensors, they ripped off when I hammered the rotors off one micron at a time.

[@rickbeckman2306]

Great Great Video......My 2005 Canyon 4wheel drive needs front brakes and rotors. I'm using this video to help me...thanks

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

I'm glad it will help you Rick. Good Luck with the brakes on your Canyon

[@mattrhoton9219]

I love these videos. You do a great job I have a 2006 colorado with 267k miles on it (about 430k kilometers). Love the truck so much I'm determined to hit at minimum 500k miles maybe a million if I decide to do a complete restoration and rebuild. I'm about to replace the hubs calipers rotors and pads brake lines and I might decide to replace every suspension and steering past up front probably going to get some ball joints and control arm bushings while I'm in there might as well. Anyhow thanks for the videos always a pleasure to watch.

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Hey Matt, Thanks for reaching out. Yeah, absolutely, you're on track to hit some big mileage there. I'm routing for you. Lots of work but lots of Fun too. Cheers!

[@kennethsemanchik2252]

i've been waiting for this video.... have an 08 same problems with the left front...

[@Romulan112]

Nice video here. I learned a few new tricks, like that bolt through the brake bracket holes. My 2011 Colorado has a little different hub configuation with external brake sensor. My major problem is salt damage. My spindle is losing cohesion. Seriously, the thick metal spindle is coming apart. Rust that bad.

[@lexner2828]

I had a great (that's a bit much) weekend working on my Canyon brakes. Your good humor and encouragement got me through the process. I shared your video with my daughter while we worked through the process. Because you came across so friendly and engaging I checked out your other videos and I see you have an MGB. Can't wait to see what you do with that. I have an MGA and maybe I'll pick up some good tips

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks Larry that's very kind

[@gregr1672]

Your choosing to get a new hub is a wise choice my friend! I like your using the bolts to press the rotor away from the knuckle. I am getting ready to do my 05 Canyon and am going to try the air hammer method . I ve talked to some mechanics who've done a lot of these with air hammer assist .They swear by breaking the hub bolts loose and then using air hammer to shock the bolt heads . The impacting pushes the hub away from the knuckle!

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Sounds like that seized hub will be no match for you Greg. Good luck my friend.

[@gregr1672]

Just wanted to tell you ,I did the right side bearing today ! Your method of using bolts to push against rotor did the trick .I tried my air hammer but it was too hard to get in back to hit bolts to vibrate outward .So I went to plan B ,your method ! Your method is going to be my go to method from now on . I got great parts from 1 A Auto on line .TRQ Hub Bearings with speed sensors ,heavy duty rotors drilled and slotted for reduced heat . Also got new TRQ Pads & hardware . I forgot to order new dust shields,my bad , so I m making due with the old ones . Just under 400 bucks for everything ,and life time guarantee . That seems pretty good for rebuilding both sides .

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

@@gregr1672 Great job Greg! I love lifetime warranty parts. I like to do it once the right way and never have to do it again. Thanks for letting us know the costs, type of hub bearings and rotors. Cheers!

[@gregr1672]

Where did you find new dust shields ? I was on line & the phone all day .None to be had! I checked junk yard they were all as bas as mine .The drivers side hub bolts were so rusted ,and one had rusted in half .I couldn't find bolts for the hub either .Chevy dealer could order them for 28 dollars per bolt. And no idea how long it would take to get them. So I went to junk yard and found a 2 wheel drive Colorado and got the hub boots out .They are the same .I used the 2 bolts to push the hub bearing out of the knuckle ,but dust shield was crap !

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

@@gregr1672 Unfortunately, I had to buy it from my Chevy Dealer. I remember paying more than I thought I should have. I think its important though.

[@tonyray4565]

By the way, it was a good idea using the bolts. I took one look at the back of wheel hub assembly on my GMC Canyon and I had tears in my eyes after seeing all the rust. Hope this works. Thx

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Hey thereTony, Yeah the bolts work nice. Good Luck!

[@normanhopfensperger4343]

Excellent video for the diy mechanics!!! Thanks so much for your info 😊 Norm

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks Norman. I'm glad it will help you out. Cheers!

[@j246802]

You're the kind of Dad everyone deserves. Thank you kindly sir, the video was a great help.

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks J246802, That was really nice to hear! I'm glad the video helped :)

[@j246802]

​@@cantletherdiediy1050 Can I clarify something? The bolts you used to get the hub off. They are supposed to about 5 inches in length, threaded the whole way, and a diameter of either, 3/8, 7/16, or of 1/2 inch (per comments below). Sorry to ask, I have to ride the bicycle to go get these and it's a bit of a long ride that I don't want to do twice. Also, are you at all concerned about the bolt affecting the thread for the hole it's going through? I noticed one bolt is slightly angled upward?

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

@@j246802 The hole that the bolts go through is not threaded. The threads are in the bracket that gets mounted through those holes. So no, I’m not concerned and the bolts, as long as they are not too big to fit through the holes you should be fine.

[@j246802]

@@cantletherdiediy1050 Sweet that really helps! Thanks. She's stuck really good. I really appreciate the videos!

[@j246802]

@@cantletherdiediy1050 Thank you so much honorary Dad. This worked great. What a wonderful trick. It was really stuck, like 150 hits with a big hammer did nothing. I'm thinking maybe 5 inch long bolts aren't needed though - it seemed like the length was little bit prohibitive when trying to manuver the socket onto the end of the bolt. Again, thank you.

[@ichigokurasaki8426]

What a badass man and video!! I gotta be careful when I throw my old rotators and brake pads……dynamite!!

[@622wesc]

Yes thanks for the bolt trick, worked great!

[@benmiller1865]

Excellent video! Super detailed and helped me greatly! It was also fun to watch!

[@53fan48]

Very helpful and detailed explanation.....love your videos! Keep up the great work

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks so much for the kind comment Cheers!

[@austinodom5272]

This video is a life saver well explained I appreciate it man

[@tombrochard6854]

great video! this really helps a lot on what is clearly a difficult job. Thank you!!

[@johansbejcek5605]

Very good video, very well explained. I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado 3.5L 4x4 and I changed the brake pad myself. I congratulate you. Greetings JOHANS BEJCEK. from CHILE - VALPARAISO - Muy buen video, muy bien explicado. Tengo una Chevy Colorado 3.5L 4x4 2006 y yo mismo cambié la pastilla de freno. Te felicito. Saludos JOHANS BEJCEK. de CHILE - VALPARAISO

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Johans, Thanks for giving me some positive feedback on my video. I like hearing how I am helping people. It is so cool that you are commenting from CHILE...wow! Muy buen comment :)

[@johansbejcek5605]

@@cantletherdiediy1050 No .. Thanks to you and your very good videos.

[@dannygoround1]

Thank you so much for this, I get big Steve Irwin vibes from you, so positive even through your mistake. Great video thank you!

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Steve Irwin?... Thanks Danny. That's a great comment. I like that guy, Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment my friend. Cheers!

[@dannygoround1]

@@cantletherdiediy1050 well I might be back with a question later! I removed everything yesterday except the hub (I got every bolt removed then had to do something else) so today I’ll be using your bolt trick, do you recall how long those bolts were?

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

@@dannygoround1 The bolts that i used were 4 inches long but the threads only went 1/3rd of the length of the bolt. I remember wondering if I had enough threads to pop off the rotor. I would estimate that 4.5 inch bolt threaded the whole length of the bolt would be ideal. Good Luck Danny

[@ibartucz1057]

Awesome personality and instructional video!

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks man...I really appreciate it

[@ericbuehler7858]

Great video! It helped me understand what & why my '08 Colorado 4x4 w/76k miles ABS Fault repair is costing $2000 at the dealership. "Front rotors are fine now but will be damaged & replaced as part of the repair". I can't get my head wrapped around that part. New hubs, speed sensors and rotors too?

[@kurtms1]

Good EFFN video...! Helped me Big time.. Thanks!

[@Tony-iu9ut]

Great video thank you. Do you know where I can get the backing plates at. I'm having a hard time finding them

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Unfortunately, I believe I had to order it from my Chevy dealer. I do not think after market parts dealers would have it. You can try Rockauto.com or your auto savage yard. I wish I had a better answer for you but sometimes you have to order from the dealer.

[@VIVACRISTOREY-]

Thank you Brother I appreciate your video. GOD BLESS

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks Gordo!

[@wandajames6234]

OK-- mechanic's tip-- contrary to what he says, the hub IS stuck on the CV axle shaft. You can help loosen it by holding a block of wood flush against the protruding axle shaft and give it some taps to shock it loose. This chap does not use nearly enough WD40 or PB- a mechanic's best friend to reduce the number of broken off bolts and time wasted pounding on things. If you are replacing the rotor it is ok to strike the back of it all around to help it seperate. Class A tech here-- spray and more spray and let it actually soak at least a minute. I have a 2004 Canyon and for once I'm glad it is a 2x4 when it comes to front brakes.

[@jimmiller8857]

What do you think of breaking the axe nut loose by applying the brakes-- before taking the brakes off, if you don't have an axe-handle-type tool in your quiver?

[@luigiprovencher]

This is going to be my 2nd time replacing the hubs on my 2008 Chevrolet Colorado. So I came here looking for the size socket I'll need to remove the rotors from the hubs. I think it's a 17MM if I remember right.

[@jpfoh]

Thank you so much for making such great videos. It feels like I’m hanging out with one of my good buddies when watching your videos. On a side note, where do you find all the torque specs?

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks for the Great Comment! Yeah, its kinda challenging to find the torque specs sometimes. I usually just google it. If you get the manufacturer and/or a couple of sources saying the same thing then its probably correct. I write them down in my maintenance log so I never have to look them up again. I hope that helps. I'll try to put them in my videos. Cheers!

[@jpfoh]

@@cantletherdiediy1050 Think it would be safe to assume all the specs you mention are the same for my 2008 3.7L 4x4? There have been a few times I’ve found inconsistencies with what I’ve found online. Thanks in advance!!!

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

@@jpfoh I would take the time to look the torque specs up specific for your own vehicle. Unfortunately, not all the torque specs would be the same as there are changes through model years. My engine is the 3.5 L 5 cylinder whereas you have the 3.7L 6 cylinder. A nice truck by the way Cheers!

[@jeffgossett416]

Hey there, do u remember what size bolts you were using? I tried getting my rotors off this weekend , no luck at all.

[@georged1497]

Just bought an 05 Canyon 4x4 SLE and need to do the brakes for safety. This helps a lot, thanks! Curious though since this is my first GM product does the z71 and the sle use the same rotors and wheel bearing?

[@jackchrisman2414]

Great video thanks!!!

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

You're Welcome Jack. I hope your Rotor comes off easily. Cheers!

[@jellopoolparty7112]

You said torque knuckle to wheel hub 96ft lb. ? Where did you find that info may I ask?

[@nibbz56]

Doing this plus Replace Cv axle and Seal......just got the truck and it is a PITA this job. those 4 inner hub bolts are a pita, now im having trouble getting the hub bracket out to remove the CV axle

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thats a Big Job. Good Luck Nibbz

[@normanhopfensperger4343]

What size bolts are used for the removal of the rotor and hub?

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Hey Norman, I used 4 1/2 inch bolts because that’s what I had in the shop. I’d get 5 inch bolts threaded the entire 5 inch length. Good Luck!

[@normanhopfensperger4343]

I purchased 7/16" , grade 8, alot less flex, in the through holes, thanks again 👍

[@j246802]

@@normanhopfensperger4343 Hey Norm - can I check the bolt sizes with you to clarify? The bolts should be 3/8 in diameter at the place where the nut attaches? And about 5 inches in length? Were you concerned about the bolt affecting the thread of the hole it was going through, was there any contact there? Thanks

[@sinistermind33]

Doing my 2012 4x4 for the first time, looked at the bolt holes for the caliper bracket mount and it's not on top of the rotor it goes further in so might have to get threaded rod don't think bolts would be long enough.

[@mobygodfrey4936]

I live in the salt belt in the up and none of the four bolts are 15mil i got a 13 on one and a 14 mil 9/16 on one not sure what you'd do but I'm gonna heat the snot out of em and pound an impact socket that's really close on and give er heck

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Giv'er!

[@theblondebastard]

where did you end up finding the 2 inch extension? can't seem to find it anywhere. great video by the way

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

The two inch extender came with my air compressor tool set. It is used with the Air Powered Impact Gun

[@normanhopfensperger4343]

What size bolts are used for pushing out the rotors? Thanks again

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Hey Norman, I used 4 1/2 inch bolts because that’s what I had in the shop. I’d get 5 inch bolts threaded the entire 5 inch length...that way you do not run out of threads as you tighten it down to push out the rotor. Good Luck!

[@normanhopfensperger4343]

They appear to be 3/8",is that correct

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

@@normanhopfensperger4343 Yes, they are 3/8 of an inch. You got it!

[@normanhopfensperger4343]

Thanks again for your help and support. I thought they were, didn't want to have her down, too long. Rear axle seals, I think I can manage, we'll see, thanks 😊

[@j246802]

​@@normanhopfensperger4343 Hey Norm - can I check the bolt sizes with you to clarify? The bolts should be 3/8 in diameter at the place where the nut attaches? And about 5 inches in length? Were you concerned about the bolt affecting the thread of the hole it was going through, was there any contact there? Thanks

[@raysno8367]

Do one on the replacement of the lower control arm !

[@raysno8367]

DoesThe 04 Colorado have access to remove the rear bolt on the lower control arm after removing the torsion bar ?

[@therealgabrielcash]

Thanks for another great video! Most likely have a hub bearing going now on mine, may be tackling this soon. What tires are on yours? They look awesome!

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks Gabriel. I got BF Goodrich Ko2 Baja Champions on the Colorado and the F150. I like them. The right amount of aggression for me without too much tire road noise. They wear well. I got over 110 000 kms on the F150 out of the last set and I am hauling a lot of weight over windy, bumpy roads. Unfortunately, I think COVID drove the price of tires up in Canada at least... not sure in your neck of the woods? My Colorado takes 15 inch tires and the tire shop said that size is getting hard to find. The tires I have are an odd size 31X10.50R15 LT 109S (metric I believe) which many people don't know fits my stock P235 / 75R15 rims. You may have to get your tire shop to search and order those in for you. Cheers!

[@therealgabrielcash]

@@cantletherdiediy1050 ive got TOYO OPEN COUNTRY A/T III 265/70 R16, they are nice but i like the look of yours better. But that size fits great, no rubbing or other issues. Incase you can no longer get the 15s (obviously need to get 16 rims though).

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

@@therealgabrielcash No rubbing except when salt/ice builds up on the front mud flaps and you turn sharp in a parking lot then the tire can touch the built-up salt/ice lump. The salt/ice lump usually falls off or is easily kicked off.

[@kh2140]

Great video. Helps me with my 2012 Colorado. Frustrated me why GM designed it that way! 😡. Why didn't you use a universal joint to get to that 1 tight spaced bolt? Also could you use a gear pulley to remove from drive shaft?

[@mike-yt4yv]

What's the size of the jack bolts u are using

[@batista2893]

Is alignment necessary after?

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Good question. No you do not need an alignment after replacing the rotor, hub, caliber and pads. If you were to replace the ball joints, then it may be wise to also get an alignment as installing them could mess up your alignment. I hope that helps Andrea.

[@littlenormy]

Thanks. good here now.

[@tonyray4565]

Any idea what size of bolts I should use as the “bearing pusher bolts”.

[@DTWCT]

Is it critical to put the dust shield back in? I put mine back together without it and now I can't get the caliper bracket back on. Not enough space between the rotor and knuckle

[@mchammer4841]

Got the same issue with the rotor rubbing on the caliper bracket I plan on sanding down bracket slightly to fix this

[@therealgabrielcash]

Turns out this is a different animal than an 09-12 Colorado! I am lucky that my ABS sensor is a totally different setup, just one bolt and it pulls off, no dealing with this type of setup. So if anyone is struggling to find hub assemblies with ABS sensor all ready installed, you wont find one because ours are not like the 04-08. Just buy a wheel hub and re-use your current ABS sensor.

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

That's great. I'm glad GM changed the design

[@therealgabrielcash]

@@cantletherdiediy1050 got her done yesterday! All went well except for forgetting that the dust shield goes on first before the assmebly when reinstalling! Job so nice, do it twice lol Also, if anyone has my luck, i snapped my deep socket 15mm unbolting the lower front bolt. Because my regular 15mm socket has a bump midway through, i couldnt get it to fit in between the axle joint and the lower ball joint. So to get the clearance needed i jacked up the a-arm and it gave just enough room to allow the socket to squeeze in.

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

@@therealgabrielcash Oh noooo...forgetting the dust shield...that's easy to do. Those sockets may have a lifetime guarantee. You may be able to exchange it free of charge. They should not break.

[@therealgabrielcash]

@@cantletherdiediy1050 yup, replaced today easy peasy. I'll know for next time dust shield first lol thanks again for this video (and the valve cover gasket) , im sure there will be more repairs down the line that i will be turning to your channel for help 👍

[@surfdonkey7584]

Thanks

[@kennethshelton9976]

The abs wire can be cut on old rotor, cause new one comes with a wire and all the clips. I cut mine and took out all the old wire holders.

[@markmedlinjr]

Nice!

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Thanks Mark!

[@anthonysalonek9462]

smaller bolt in caliper bracket hole, nut behind it, tighten down bolt, holed nut

[@scottyboy7462]

the o9 is different- the top of ball joint is higher making it impossible to get a socket on that bottom hub bolt

[@anthonysalonek9462]

don't need axe handle put screwdriver in rotor hole before taking off caliper. loosen all bolts on outside

[@carlossoto582]

I hope my rotors are still good.

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

Yes, your right Carlos. For the Colorados and Canyons, we need to pay close attention to our brake pad wear to avoid your worn pads from damaging the rotors. Replacing the rotors are a royal pain. Replacing pads are easy. Good Luck!

[@mobygodfrey4936]

I have been fighting rusted bolt's that hold the front hub in its a 07 Colorado and is so rusted I don't have a single working outer door handle anyway I've rounded out 2 of the 4 backside hub bolts im not impressed with this GM engineering those inner bolts are more rust than metal whod have thought a simple brake job would turn into a 2 day debacle ive tried heat penetrant the works much more and the cutting torch is coming out

[@jeffdenny8104]

I LMFAO after watching this video

[@dalemihocik4732]

I hope you didn't put all your tools away because when viewing your video at 41:41 , I noticed the seal between the CV axle and the differential is leaking . You should have paid better attention to detail because now you will have to disassemble just about 100% of what you did to replace the seal . Oh well , live and learn .

[@cantletherdiediy1050]

There's a slight leakage there. I'm watching it. The great thing is the vehicle is 15 years old with over 400,000 kms. Another video for another day. Thanks for your comment. Cheers!

[@CarbonGlassMan]

This Colorado truck is so stupid. A heavy duty style rotor/hub on a light duty truck. I f***ing hate working on my damn truck. Aside from it being a frozen up rusted together rust magnet, it's a stupid design. Box frame. Stiffer and rots out faster than C channel frames. Heavy duty 6 lug goofball rotor and hub design on a tiny baby truck. Fuel pump lock ring will rust off, making it leak gas and you get your choice of rusted solid gas tank straps that will absolutely break when you try to remove them, or you can take the bed off, which will break most of the bolts that holt it on. Plus the nuts that are hidden inside a boxed in channel on the bed, the nuts that are welded in place, the rusted welds will break, causing the nuts to spin so you have to cut a hole in the bed to expose the spinning nut to get it either rewelded, a socket on it, or cut it off because you're replacing these nuts anyway if you want to put the bed back on. Out of all the trucks I've owned, this is the one I hate the designers of the most. Just who in the hell decided to make you remove the axle nut and the entire freaking wheel bearing and hub just to replace a rotor? Rotors need replaced every so often, so mechanics will charge an arm and a leg to replace the rotors on this tiny baby truck because it's a lot more work for no practical reason. For people like us who do this work ourselves, it doesn't cost us more money. It just pisses me off. We also risk destroying the ABS sensor.

[@vinceferraccioli4661]

What a fucked system

[@dougheinecken6832]

Correct lol. Realizing just how bizarre this truck is made as I’ve had to service more and more stuff on it