Chimney Apron Flashing

An apron flashing is the first piece of flashing installed along the bottom side of the chimney. Mark shows you how to markup the layout for the proper bends and cuts on a piece of coil stock to form the flashing and then how to install the finished piece.
Please visit www.KasselWood.com for more info on the KasselWood Premier Steel Roofing System.

[@bazdmegd]

Nicely done. I like to use sealed ice guard under the flashing as extra protection

[@giodazip]

This is by far the best video I've seen on this subject! Although I have a few questions. 1st. what's the heaviest gauge material you can bend with a typical brake like your using? I have access to one like yours, and I don't want to use regular trim coil, like is norally done in my area. 2nd. does the angle where the roof and chimney meet have to be figured out, when you bend? Or is is it flexible enough to bend to the right fit.

[@johnnybear111]

beautiful work

[@KasselandIrons]

2. The coil is normally flexible enough to adjust the angle of your bend after you have made it - especially if you leave one end clamped in the brake. In the video I did make the one bend too sharp (I think I had the uphill flashing in mind!) but I had no problem adjusting the bend in the 29 gauge steel (.0145”) for the chimney application.

[@frankvasquez9091]

Very technical. Great job

[@giodazip]

Part II: 3rd. the piece that tucks into the bricks, wouldn't a 1inch return add a little extra security? 4th. do you think sealant alone is enough protection? I mean, wouldn't a combination of sealant on the inside, and mortar on the outside be a good combination? Your professional opinion would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your video. JOE S~

[@dawsonfoley1094]

This some quality work

[@KasselandIrons]

3. A 1” deep kerf would be acceptable as long as it didn’t compromise the integrity of the masonry work. 4. Sealant alone should be enough protection but using two beads is not a bad idea. I like to recommend putting a bead of good silicone sealant in the kerf before the metal is inserted. A second bead can then be applied afterward. We appreciate you desire to be thorough in your work! Happy flashing! - Mark T.

[@libtrs838]

What sealant do you use?

[@KasselandIrons]

@@libtrs838 Any quality silicone sealant is acceptable. Butyl does well in areas not exposed to the sun but is not recommended where this is a concern.

[@gregl2249]

Great video thx

[@aros007z]

Awesomeness

[@qmax-en5ry]

I been doing roofing since 1995, I haven't meet more than 3 roofers that can install a proper edge flashing ,wall flashing, chimney or skylight flashing.

[@copperworks]

qmax1969 you’re right! Ive been doing roofing for 33 years and there are plenty of roofers that never saw a soldering iron

[@douglasquaid1711]

I love how in the comments of every single how to video there are arm chair commentators bawling about how wrong the guy is doing the job.

[@robertkwiatkoski1292]

That is because a lot of the people in the videos are doing things incorrectly. 1/2 way through and this man explains things well .

[@Adrian-my7re]

That’s an awesome little brake, what is the brand and model?

[@KasselandIrons]

Hi Adrian, the brand is Van Mark, Model M2, Mark I series. That's a lot of Mark in one video!

[@Astromyxin]

I am not of the school that the base flash should also be the counterflash. This is a mistake. The base flash out to attach to the roof deck and the counterflash ought to attach to the chimney as two separate units to minimize wear and eventual buckling due to seismic expansion and contraction. Also, we round our corners where we're from.

[@sahmadi1000]

It looks good but it will leak. As soon as caulking wears out, water will get under the flashing. It would be better if you cut through the brick and push the flashing in there that way you don't rely on caulking.

[@qmax-en5ry]

There is a cut on the brick, thats why He bended the top about 1/4"

[@RalphGrochowski]

1/4" is not enough. It should be 1".

[@qmax-en5ry]

@@RalphGrochowski 5:34 min

[@GeorgeMinton-jb8ky]

how do you secure the apron? with construction adhesive? or Henry clear sealant? or ?

[@KasselandIrons]

In practice, the rigidity of the flashing along with nailing the tab to the deck (in the video at 0:30 and 5:50) will probably supply sufficient down-pressure but a bead of sealant under the edges of the flashing is a very good practice. It is possible to rivet or screw through the shingle but I like to avoid penetrating the shingle unless persuaded it is really necessary. The best scenario is to be able to hook the flashing back into the top lock of the last full course of shingles below the chimney but this may not be aesthetically desirable depending on how far that last course falls below the chimney. I would still seal the edges of the flashing. Thanks for the good question!

[@redsresearch]

what is the other mesurements?? like the underturn hem and the extra strength bend and the kerf height and the kerf n back????

[@KasselandIrons]

The dimensions on the hem and strengthening bend are somewhat arbitrary, depending on what looks good and is convenient for the slit width you are working with. I usually go with ½” for the under-turned hem and then up maybe an inch for the strengthening bend. Our sidewall flashings for our shingle products have a vertical height of 7-5/8”. This is chosen to accommodate a 5/8” deep kerf cut in the wall at 7” off the deck. A 7” kerf height is convenient in that most circular saws have a distance between the edge of the shoe and the blade of 1-1/2”. The height of a common 2 x 6 is 5-1/2”. A 2 x 6 can, therefore, be positioned against a wall and used as a guide for the circular saw to cut a straight kerf 7” above the deck. A 2 x 6 is a convenient guide for all four sides of the chimney. Because of the roof slope, the kerf in the front will be slightly below the sidewall kerfs where they meet at the downslope corners of the chimney. The kerf in the back will be a little above the 7” high sidewall kerfs where they meet at the upslope corners of the chimney. A 2 x 4 can be attached to the 2 x 6 in an “L” shape for temporary attachment to the roof deck through the 2 x 4 for the sidewall kerf cuts (but not for the downslope and upslope cuts). Thanks for your questions!

[@christopherhummel1904]

What's the name of the bender and how much are they

[@KasselandIrons]

Are you referring to the large gold and silver hand brake? The 24” hand brake is around $700 and Isaiah Industries, if you give us a call at 1-800-543-8938, has these in stock.

[@dean3583]

How lomg those nails will stay down untill they pop up or cut through nail's holes? I saw them poping out halfway around my chimney. Why don't chimney guys use nails with a rings or screws instead of nails, are they trying to save few dollars while charging you thoudsands of dollars for the job.?

[@vivimu]

Yes

[@wipidipipaku]

Doesnt the moisture get inside the building by the chimney brick wall? Don't they absorb humidity?

[@KasselandIrons]

Most masonry does absorb moisture, some more than others, and it is wise to keep your chimney properly sealed and tuck pointed, including the cap.

[@wipidipipaku]

@@KasselandIrons thanks for the quick reply! Cheers

[@KasselandIrons]

Thank you, Joe, for your interest and thoughtful questions. I will attempt to answer your questions in order: 1. We have a product that has matching trim coil of 26 gauge steel (.0165”) and I don’t have any problem bending flashings for the chimney pictured in the videos. I’ve bent similar coil the length of our 8’ brake acceptably.

[@Jp-mk6hj]

Big muscles. "Rigidity"

[@altanduagi6818]

Reparatii acoperis

[@bruinwiebe1424]

American construction - built to break, British construction - built to last 100years +.

[@ivansanchez309]

nasty job no good