The pattern is supplied with every roll of coil. If multiple pitches are needed, the pattern could be taped back together and recut. Pitches that are nearly the same may be able to be accommodated without cutting a new pattern. Alternately, you could request additional patterns with your order. If you have multiple pipe diameters, cut the smallest first, and then the larger. Thanks for the question.

More than one layer of underlayment may be redundant but can provide extra protection. Ice and water down the center of a valley is crucial if applied on bare deck. Some installers may choose to stop the synthetic underlayment short of lapping over the center of the valley. Plastic cap nails should not be applied close to the center of the valley. Thanks again for the question.

Please contact us with your email address and we will be happy to supply you with a link to the KasselWood Installation Manual. A standard speed square purchased at any home improvement store will enable you to easily replicate a desired roof pitch. Feel free to contact us at 800-543-8938 with specific installation questions pertaining to our products. We always enjoy interacting with conscientious installers!

Excellent question! The second 2” must be measured perpendicular to the second, diagonal, dashed blue line (whose base is 2” out from the edge of the chimney). Thus, the 2” is measured on the red dashed line. Sorry I didn’t make this clearer in the video. Thanks!

The dimensions on the hem and strengthening bend are somewhat arbitrary, depending on what looks good and is convenient for the slit width you are working with. I usually go with ½” for the under-turned hem and then up maybe an inch for the strengthening bend. Our sidewall flashings for our shingle products have a vertical height of 7-5/8”. This is chosen to accommodate a 5/8” deep kerf cut in the wall at 7” off the deck. A 7” kerf height is convenient in that most circular saws have a distance between the edge of the shoe and the blade of 1-1/2”. The height of a common 2 x 6 is 5-1/2”. A 2 x 6 can, therefore, be positioned against a wall and used as a guide for the circular saw to cut a straight kerf 7” above the deck. A 2 x 6 is a convenient guide for all four sides of the chimney. Because of the roof slope, the kerf in the front will be slightly below the sidewall kerfs where they meet at the downslope corners of the chimney. The kerf in the back will be a little above the 7” high sidewall kerfs where they meet at the upslope corners of the chimney. A 2 x 4 can be attached to the 2 x 6 in an “L” shape for temporary attachment to the roof deck through the 2 x 4 for the sidewall kerf cuts (but not for the downslope and upslope cuts). Thanks for your questions!

Hi Andre. Thanks for the pertinent question. It is best to run the ridge vent all the way to the gable edge to avoid having to step the ridge caps down to the roof deck for the length of the overhang. You obviously won’t be venting the overhang distance but if you don’t run it to the edge, it will be difficult to make that height transition of about 1” watertight as well as aesthetically pleasing. Thanks again for the helpful inquiry!

Hi, sorry for the delayed response. We don't currently have a video on this but there is a cricket section in one of our install manuals. Link is below and it starts on PG 49. drive.google.com/file/d/0B1F5HDe3cXg8VWQtc1N0enVTLW8/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-LsjXv86vQvkT8gOHR5CQhA

Glad you found it eventually!

Hi Vameej, please send an email to [email protected] and I will get you in touch with the right person. Also, if you could leave some details on what exactly you're looking for (guidance, product, etc.) that would help. Thanks!

Yes I am planning a 12:12 roof with metal shingles -- I would like to see documents on how to build a Cricket and Saddle behind a 6 foot chimney.

I have this style of trim and was trying to find another video of how then properly join to run water properly. Do you know of another source of info?

Hi Brandon. In my instructions I suggest running a bead of sealant around the entire circumference of the cone where it rests on the shingle and pan except the bottom 2” to leave any moisture drain out. There should be very little, if any, moisture under the cone, though, if the assembly is properly constructed and sealed. These instructions are printed on the cone pattern that comes with every box of coil that Isaiah Industries ships out, as well as in our newer manuals.

@@KasselandIrons right I ment at the bottom where you dont seal it shouldn't you cut a hole to let water get out or?

@@Brandon-no3vc If necessary a little material can be trimmed off to allow for a gap at the lowest point of the cone where there is no sealant.

@@KasselandIrons is it nessisary in this video? You can see @ 11:33 it is tight to the boot flashing

@@Brandon-no3vc Yes, in this case it would be wise to leave a notch or hole for any water to exit.

Correct. The taper needs to be same length as you want the overlap. You may even make a ¼” notch at the point on the drip leg that you want the second lineal to come to. You can then cut your taper to the top of the notch and have a stop for the next lineal as you slide it into place. If you put sealant between the pieces, 1-1/2” overlap would even be sufficient. The same would be true for the ridge. It is highly unlikely that the water return channel of the gable channel will ever see any water if the roof is installed properly. Thanks for the thoughtful questions.

@@KasselandIrons you should update the videos

This is a steel shingle system so the trims and flashing coil are all the same pre-painted steel. The metal for this product is roughly 28 gauge.

@@KasselandIrons the coil and the shingle are both 28 gauge metal? Isn't the shingle a bit thicker?

@@Brandon-no3vc The G90 steel from which all parts of the system are manufactured is .0142” before the paint is applied. Most folks would consider that to be 28 gauge. We actually do prefer to talk in decimal thickness though as gauge is a range and it’s easier for folks to play games with ranges.

@@KasselandIrons why aren't the shingles as flimsy as the coil metal then?

@@Brandon-no3vc Because the press forming builds strength into the formed steel panels. Think of a paper airplane versus a sheet of paper.

Because of the natural taper of the shingle, the valley folds really should be tapered on an interlocking valley in order to make things look right.

Our standard underlayment is a synthetic underlayment. However, many areas of North America require ice and watershield over the eaves by code. So, we show ice and watershield installation.

@@KasselandIrons for the ice damns water will back up under the shingles? Would you run a full or half sheet or no sheet up the rakes?

@@Brandon-no3vc Our suggestion on ice and watershield is to follow applicable building code.

@@KasselandIrons why use ice and water tho will ice and watter back up under the metal shingles?

@@Brandon-no3vc When ice and water shield is required by building code, it must be used.

This can be made on a brake. We can send you a drawing if you'd like?

@@KasselandIrons ya sure

@@KasselandIrons I'm waiting for Seth to email me back about product availability in ontario

This is a standard part we make on a pressbrake for the Kasselwood system. We can send you a drawing of it if you'd like?

@@KasselandIrons ya sure thanks

@@Brandon-no3vc please send an email to [email protected] and he will make sure you get the drawings.

The KasselWood steel shingle is manufactured by Isaiah Industries. They offer a cast metal snow guard that works well with the system and can be installed while the roof is being installed or after the roof installation is completed.

The KasselWood steel shingle is manufactured by Isaiah Industries. They offer a cast metal snow guard that works well with the system and can be installed while the roof is being installed or after the roof installation is completed.

Thanks for the comment Al. Yes, the shingles will then overlap and cover the nail clips.

Hi Ricky. I’m not sure there is an easy way to continue the kerf all the way into your inside corners, unless, like you said, you go extra deep with your grinder. They do make a diamond carbide blade for the multitool or oscillating tool (whichever term you prefer) which will cut brick and mortar and get into 90 degree corners. I think what I would do is to transition the flashing at the point you can no longer cut the kerf to the desired depth (probably just a couple of inches short of the inside corner). At that point, I would snip the metal that is bent 90 degrees to go back into the kerf and bend the remaining distance down 180 degrees. Put butyl tape on this bent down portion, face- fasten this to the wall and apply silicon sealant along the top edge of the flashing and against the wall. For extra pressure against the wall, and therefore a better seal, you could put a rigid piece of metal between the screw(s) and the flashing metal. Hope this helps and your project goes well. Thanks for your question.

that's why you pay the man what he's worth

Are you referring to the large gold and silver hand brake? The 24” hand brake is around $700 and Isaiah Industries, if you give us a call at 1-800-543-8938, has these in stock.