Choose fabrics like a designer.

PDF Download "Fabric Basics":
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Join me as I explore the basics of fabrics and how as a designer I consider fabrics when making garments.
Further reading:
"Fabric for Fashion. The Complete Guide"
www.amazon.com...
"Textilepedia. The CompleteFabric Guide"
www.amazon.com...
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Patterns in order of appearance:
www.fabricgodm...
www.fibremood....
www.etsy.com/u...
theassemblylin...
www.stylearc.c...
www.stylearc.c...
merchantandmil...
www.trendpatte...
vikisews.com/v...
www.amazon.co....
jaycotts.co.uk...
www.minerva.co...

[@Lighthouse1852]

You have my rapt attention. Fabric/pattern compatibility might be the most underappreciated factor in home sewing success. Since many of us buy our fabrics online, learning more about how to rule fabrics in or out by description is tremendously helpful. For example, you just showed that a bit of stretch in a cotton woven may seem harmless or even nice - but isn't. As I've found the hard way, elastane is a disadvantage in some patterns and certainly affects how much ease to plan for. I'm not sure what to request next. Would you care to describe approx fabric weight (ox/gr/descriptive) ranges for various garment types when it comes to shirts, drapey woven dresses (rayon, viscose, silk, linen), tailored pants, stretch pants, tailored jackets, and wool(like) coats? Of course there can be successful exceptions, but a range would give some idea whether it's worth ordering a swatch first, and to think harder about how the opacity and drape of the outlier fabric might change the garment result. I'd love to know what keywords to use to find whether a linen is structured vs drapey, and matte vs glossy? All types have their uses; I'd just like to make sure I'm getting the type I want for each specific project. Another idea: how to choose the most suitable knit fabrics for different projects. I still don't fully understand tricot vs jersey vs interlock vs doubleknit vs ponte de roma. Fleece vs sherpa. A primer would help. All woven and knit tech fabrics for athletic gear - hot weather, cold weather, rainproof, UV protection, pros and cons. Or your recommendations for linings. Which garments you line never/sometimes/always, and why. Which fibers you prefer as linings, especially in hot weather garments, to achieve opacity and clean finishes, without turning a garment into a traveling sauna. Washability, coolness, friction - decisions can stump me. A few projects that require large amounts of fabric expense are on hold as I dither over lining choices. Honestly, I'll listen to anything you'd like to talk about. You could go to a good fabric store, pet bolts and tell us what you'd use each fabric for. I'd enjoy that, too. Oh. Pantone Mocha Mousse is right in your wheelhouse, judging by your jumper. That means 2025 will be a great opportunity to stock up on pinky beige/taupe fabrics and garments.

[@gemimalondon]

Hi, thank you so much, there are some great points there to explore in future videos, I find it hard to judge if subjects are interesting - so this is really helpful to me and in turn others who may also be very interested!

[@jodikasper7995]

This is helpful. I have chosen the wrong fabric more times than I can count😂

[@gretabrown8320]

I have been disappointed by choosing the wrong fabric so many times so I do appreciate this presentation

[@gretabrown8320]

Please do another episode about fabrics I loved this

[@moyagreene9590]

This is so helpful. Thank you. Hearing your suggestions on what to make with specific fabrics and more information on fabric weights would help us when ordering online. For example momme for silk and other weight indicators for fabrics like wool or cotton or crepe. Also there is so much variation in fabric quality.. how to be a savvy shopper . I greatly appreciate your vlogs.

[@rosey_ie]

Would LOVE to bear you do more of an exploration of the sustainability or otherwise of fabrics too! Thanks as always for a very informative video 🙌🏻

[@gemimalondon]

Hi Rosey, thanks, I would love to explore sustainability in a future video, it's on the list!

[@KarenScott6]

I actually found the talking about how fabrics are made and woven very interesting and would love to hear more about it. I spent the first 4 years of my life in Walthamstow, and great a fair amount of time in later years as my grandparents and aunts, uncles and cousins lived there. But now I live in Somerset and to visit would be a serious trek. However, you make me feel that I need to do so. 🙄

[@stephaniethomson9531]

Thank you so much. Choosing fabrics to pair with patterns is the thing I struggle with the most in the whole process.

[@gayprendergast7102]

Great video. Thank you.

[@georgielewis4180]

Hah! I was sure I was going to hit FF to your midpoint, but truly found the explanation of woven fabrics really interesting! I have just discovered you via this video and will now be plunging into your previous videos. Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom with such humility and intelligence!

[@thenorthernsewist]

Very interesting, thankyou Rachael 😘

[@cherylmccutchan1282]

The discussion of different weaves was fascinating! I'd love to see more about the way that fabric choice affects the drape of a garment. I'll often use the same pattern with different types of fabric, such as cotton lawn versus drapey silk, to make garments with very different feels. Sometimes it works, sometimes it's less successful. Thanks for your great content!

[@suebrown5500]

Really interesting! Would love to learn more about design in terms of what types of print suit different styles e.g. strips, checks, paisley etc. Thanks so much ❤

[@julia-nc6ox]

Thank you for this video (and coming series). I am absolutely interested in what someone who had success in the industry has to say!. Textiles are very important to learn and boy I always wondered why that awful polyester satin would pull if my fingernails weren't perfectly manicured! It is the floating weft strands!! Now I can visualize the problem, I love it!

[@veragiles981]

I wondered exactly the same!😅

[@tkalaski]

Super interesting and very helpful!

[@geraldinegorman9597]

Thank you that is very helpful. I make a lot of things in viscose as I am afraid of cotton being too stiff and stranding away from the body! I love your navy top. Amazing shape! ❤

[@gemimalondon]

Thank you!

[@evanick823]

Enjoyed the video. I like silk, maybe something about pairing silk with patterns, or how sustainable silk fabric is. Anyhow, look forward to more of these.

[@MaryReiss-j1e]

Such an informative video for a “mature” sewist. I have been making garments for 65 years and continue to explore new techniques and knowledge. I recently made my first coat with double faced wool - the Bella Kaia coat…it is beautiful and sewing with the fabric was magic! Your perspective as a designer is a gift to your viewers. Thank you!

[@barblawrie9328]

Thank you so much for you videos. I absolutely love them. Yours are my favourite sewing videos. I find them so interesting and informative. Your knowledge as a fashion designer is amazing and so helpful. And I love love your aesthetic ❤❤❤. Thank you so much

[@gemimalondon]

Thank you so much!

[@kylieinnocente242]

Your videos are brilliant. This was so informative and interesting. I'm sorry I haven't commented on your videos until now- I've bought patterns you've recommended and been thrilled with them. I'm so glad you are here in the KZbin space. I don't usually leave comments but it felt important to let you know how helpful I find your channel.

[@gemimalondon]

Hi Kylie, thank you so much for taking the time to comment. The best part of having a KZbin channel for me is the feedback I get, KZbin is still quite new to me but it's something I hope to continue with X

[@leonabraithwaite8881]

I’m loving this video! I would love to know where In Walthamstow you get your fabrics from.

[@cpemg]

Very interesting thank you. I blunder at times with fabric weight when sewing especially when enamoured with the appearance of said fabric

[@gemimalondon]

Hi Catherine, thank you! I still choose fabrics that don't behave themselves sometimes! it's not an exact science and you never really know how a garment will turn out!

[@kathycondello75]

So I have the fabric but need to find a pattern that would suit the stash fabric. I enter the fabric into the site question box and sometimes I’ll get patterns. I’m loving what you are doing ! Thanks!😊🇨🇦

[@carolesterner5313]

I loved this vlog. So very interesting and informative. Please give us more of these fabric/pattern matches. Understanding what to what to look for when selecting patterns for particular fabrics has always been somewhat of a mystery to me. I learned so much from you in just the few vlogs of yours I’ve watched. I definitely subscribed and know I will learn much more. Thank you so much for sharing your vast knowledge and expertise with us.

[@gemimalondon]

Thank you Carole, it's great to receive this feedback and to hear what is interesting and ofcourse useful 👍🙏

[@Riderules73]

Its clear you speak from true expertise! Thank you. I’m beginning to sew to honour my late Mum’s big passion - your clear and structured approach really helps me and takes my fear away! 😊

[@elaineevans6278]

Thank you. I loved this. My plan is to go through my stash and patterns and marry them, so this helped me immensely with my thought process.

[@char1949]

Thank you for your explanation of how fabrics are different and choosing patterns where they will work best. I have never been clear about what to choose, so I am very thankful for pattern suggestions. I like your mid week video idea!

[@Martine-d2n]

Thank you for this very informative video. I struggled when choosing fabric for projects as I mostly purchase fabrics from online retailers. I will watch this again next time I am looking for fabric to go with a particular pattern. I have subscribed so I do not miss out on future videos. Thank you once again.

[@gemimalondon]

Thank you!

[@janepiriou-mm7rc]

Very interesting thankyou. Ive been sewing for years but can still choose the wrong fabric for the pattern. Had a coup de coeur for pattern vogue V1863 on your blouse vlog. Managed to get the pattern here in France and am looking forward to making it. A warning for any non uk residents: if you order a pattern from a uk company from Europe, you will have to pay customs duty before its delivered. I found out to my cost. 14 euros French customs on an £18 pattern from the Fold line. Pand P £5 very expensive all in all.

[@jennifercunha553]

This is such an interesting video. I would LOVE to learn more about fibers and weaves and sustainability as well. Your videos are always worth watching!

[@becksinbits]

Great info ❤ I love technical detail and nerding out regarding fabric types! I've just finished the Bella Loves Kaia Coat which is a great intro to double faced wool. I would be interested to hear thoughts on wool crepe... I'd love to make a blouse with it but don't know if it's sturdy enough as it's quite an open weave and slightly sheer 🤔

[@debbievictoria-seale7817]

Thank you so much. This was helpful. I enjoyed that you matched the fabric with patterns. Just a suggestion, I would've enjoyed it if you stood up and draped the fabric over the dressforn and showed how it moved also. I enjoy your videos. I'm learning so much!

[@gemimalondon]

Thank you Debbie!

[@pinkpaulasews4929]

Super helpful and interesting vlog thank you

[@geraldinefraser1998]

Thank you Rachel.This was so interesting and informative.I have made a few things that just didn’t work and now I understand why.This was a brilliant .I would love you to do a fabric sustainability video.

[@gemimalondon]

Glad it was helpful!

[@donnac5201]

I love your channel! I’ve been sewing for a long time and find the matching of fabric and pattern- the hardest part of it.

[@civilizeddiva]

12:37-12:42: I appreciate this level of detail about fabrics. Gaining insight into how fabric structure influences the behavior of garments-whether they’re more structured, drapey, or something in between-enables me to make better-informed choices and helps me save money.

[@dbdesignsandsewingaustrali5668]

Great information, thank you

[@MichelleConnolly-x4n]

Thank you, so useful and interesting, perfect level of detail 🎉

[@gemimalondon]

thank you

[@craftymystic4868]

Thanks! All good. You have to know the rules to break them! I once made a sweatshirt and joggers out of a cotton lace. Was fun.

[@rosariobecerril1473]

Hello, this kind of content is very very interesting because a succesfull garment depends not only in the construction but in the fabric selection. A good design is only to be perfect with the right fabric. In my humble opinion.

[@gemimalondon]

Hi, yes fabric choice is so important!

[@AnnettePetavy]

A very interesting video, thank you! What are your thoughts on buying fabric without a specific pattern in mind - how many meters/yards?

[@jennetthamilton971]

I remember learning about how different fabrics are made when I took home ec in high school way back in the early 70's. I found it fascinating then and find it fascinating today. I would love to go to Scotland to watch both tweed and tartan being woven. I did learn during menopause to stay away from many synthetic fabrics. I do love pairing fabrics with patterns that are not usually put together, sometimes it works, sometimes not. I'm always intrigued to see what you will bring to us next.

[@SueTownson]

I found the warp and weave fascinating - very specialist yes but interesting and you made it very understandable😎❤

[@1maryangela]

Thank you for sharing your insights into the detail of fibre and fabrics. I am so excited to explore your videos!

[@gemimalondon]

thank you!

[@rondabellefontaine2759]

This is a great video that I will watch more than once. Thank you!

[@melaniekelly5421]

Love your videos .Have you thought about doing sewing tutorials? I think you would get a lot of interest x

[@julieinnis2219]

A fascinating presentation - thank you. 🌸

[@sarahbowman9329]

Thank you for this, I consistently get my fabric choice wrong and it’s so disappointing when you’ve made a garment to then not want to wear it, really appreciate this video

[@melenelewis2955]

Thank you! This was just the type of information I have been needing. I did like and subscribe because this information is Very helpful. I live in Johannesburg SA so I don't have access to some of the name brands of fabrics and patterns that you refer to so the information on the fibres and combinations and weaves will help me a Lot. Thanks again.

[@gemimalondon]

Glad it was helpful!

[@junelowther9611]

Fascinating information! I, too, would love pointers on selecting fabrics for specific types of projects…..when you don’t have the advantage of seeing, touching and feeling- such as when shopping online. I find this challenging and, at times, laborious! Also, your visuals on fabric weaves made it easy to see it, and remember.

[@civilizeddiva]

Video content request: Considering printed fabrics for sewing projects. For example, a while back, I bought two Lady of Leisure style blouses from H&M - one in black and the other in white. Later I found the same blouse in a blue stripe while traveling. Normally, I would not go for stripes, but bought it because I loved the blouse. The stripped version became my favorite! I think I avoid prints because I am uncertain how to select what looks flattering. There is a line between interesting and over the top😅

[@gemimalondon]

Thank you, I like the idea of a print focused video!

[@meganshipley235]

I really enjoyed this. I always struggle with matching fabric with patterns. Thank you!

[@katiebrady9422]

So helpful! I’d love to hear more like this, especially different kinds of wool and linen and what kinds of garments work best with each.

[@sewsew100]

I really enjoyed your video. I realise now how much I don't know about about fabrics. I need to be more careful when choosing a fabric for a project and not just go for a pretty print.

[@robyn3349]

Thank you!

[@elayjayudny9741]

🧵Hi there Rachel - I just had this video recommended to me on UTube and I’m very glad that I did 😊 This is all very interesting to me, having been sewing for sixty years. I have never seen a video online presenting the reasons for differences in fabric - I knew what they looked like and felt like, but I didn’t know why. Having looked through your other videos I immediately subscribed because you have such varied and interesting content. I also really like your understated but clear presenting style. Having given up on terrestrial TV, I now have hours of happy viewing ahead. Thank you 🙏 With best wishes from a Granny in Aberdeenshire. 🥰

[@EileenR11]

I really enjoyed this. One of my early learnings when I started making my own clothes was to appreciate the work of designers of commercially made clothing. It can be really tricky to match fabrics to patterns. Especially in the beginning, but even now there are grey areas. Would love you to continue this. Maybe slightly shorter deep dives into specific examples as and when you feel inspired. Or occasional analyses on the practical implications of interesting designer choices seen on catwalks. Thank you. ❤

[@janfranklin2114]

Very informative, I learned a lot . Thank you for the PDF I’m going to put it in my makes book along with a PDF I found on fabric weight/ gsm and oz . I unfortunately have to do a lot of my fabric shopping online and it’s so hard to figure out what to order.

[@gemimalondon]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Kate-wf6hh]

I really enjoyed this but I do have a degree in textiles, so not a surprise. I also really enjoyed the fabric/pattern match up. If you haven't already bought the Style Arc Joy waistcoat pattern, have a look at Maison Fauve as they have a gorgeous waistcoat pattern on there and it is free. Even though I wouldn't wear leopard print, simply because it doesn't suit me, I love the cotton drill you bought and think it would look fab for the jacket.

[@gemimalondon]

Hi Kate, thank you. I have seen the Maison Fauve Pattern, it's really lovely, have you made it? it's on my list!

[@viviennekeller-p5x]

So interesting. I will pay more attention to the fabric description now when buying online instead of just falling in love with the pattern! Thank you.

[@francinekirouac4729]

I really enjoyed the information love your style🇨🇦

[@michellem3899]

Really Helpful.

[@rachaelfenton9983]

That was so interesting, thank you! I would be very interested in hearing more about your industry experience and in particular if you have examples of your designs.

[@janicemiller6554]

Very good talk. I have shared it with my niece who is starting to sew her own clothes. Thank you.

[@moira7083]

Really useful - thank you! It would also be very helpful to have some guidance on weight v fabric v pattern - so eg., in broad terms when buying online, how do I assess cotton of 150gsm v 200gsm as to how they would each work fora particular look? Appreciate online suppliers don’t always give this info (and annoyingly, Minerva only use “light/medium/heavy”), but clearly RTW take this into account and so your tips on this would be really appreciated!

[@TheresaCooper-Pengelly]

Thank you so much for this video, such great information. I would really like to learn more, especially then pairing of fabric to pattern, etc. I am so interested in this subject, as I find it hard to choose the right fabrics for what I want to sew. Plus, I think the prints always attract, but aren’t necessarily the right choice. I am on a mission to buy plain fabric only. Am looking for a fabric now for tailored pants for Summer (Style Arc Spencer pant) that isn’t linen or synthetic blend m

[@civilizeddiva]

The choice of fabrics can significantly enhance or detract from a project. Looking forward to your suggestions.

[@christinemartin9449]

Thank you for doing this video, I found it really interesting and informative. I have been sewing for more yeaars than I care to remember but all my information has been deducted myself and so not necessarily the best. Information from someone like you is so helpful, thank you.

[@ahazuda2010]

Useful presentation. BTW, I think you would look FAB in head-to-toe leopard print.

[@janetlawrence4324]

Thank you

[@krimhildshutte2132]

Thank you for all your informations! It’s a very interesting video!

[@gemimalondon]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@MoiraFraser]

I'm very interested in sustainability

[@suzanmckain9256]

HI, enjoyed your video...what kind of fabric is British Worsted and what can I make with it?

[@celestebrown6170]

I loved this video, could you please recommend your favorite online fabric shops?

[@gemimalondon]

Hi Celeste, thank you, I actually buy most of my fabrics from retail shops. I but alot of Liberty print fabrics form Billow fabrics who offer good discounts.