Choosing cloth for a Savile Row tailored suit.

Savile Row tailor, Tom Mahon explains how to choose cloth for a made to measure or bespoke Savile Row suit.

[@patrickmeehan1536]

It’s always impressive to listen to people like this who are absolute masters of their craft.

[@seancoop83]

Excellent broadcast Tom. This is perhaps the best broadcast I have seen on KZbin regarding cloth selection from a bespoke tailors perspective. You are very kind and thank you for sharing your expertise with us. Sean

[@savilerowtales]

Thanks Sean. My pleasure.

[@southernsartorialist5245]

I've always appreciated the heavier weight English cloths over the trend towards these featherweight Italian fabrics, love your illustration of why you generally want heavier fabrics when going bespoke.

[@joe1112007]

I'm in Hong Kong, and my suits made when I was in NYC become a nightmare to wear ...

[@joe1112007]

Although I have to say the heavier suits do hold and look much better

[@jeffhreid]

@@joe1112007 it’s true the heat can make a beautiful suit intolerable to wear.

[@arslongavitabrevis5136]

Mr. Mahon. It is unlikely I will manage to commission a suit from a Savile Row tailor, but if I could, I would choose you with my eyes closed. The way you explain and describe the virtues of different clothes tells me that you and the people of Redmayne are BY FAR the best. I cannot help but watch your videos and make notes hoping that one day I may go to England and commission a pair of suits from you (MTM, of course, bespoke is out of the question for me!). Wishing you and all the people from Redmayne all the best. Yours sincerely, Claudio.

[@kingyeung914]

One of my favorite videos on KZbin! Thank you Mr. Mahon.

[@savilerowtales]

Too kind. Best, Tom.

[@bharatc.sampat6406]

Absolutely marvelous. Extremely helpful

[@paata799]

Thank you Mr. Mahon Amazing video

[@riff2072]

Very nice Mr. Mahon. Thank you for the informative and enjoyable cloth video.

[@peterj.farnsworth2606]

Excellent, a lot of good information put across in a simple to understand way. Many thanks

[@savilerowtales]

Glad it was helpful!

[@thedustykeratometer8570]

Thank you! Lots of good information there.

[@jeffhreid]

I love the feel of flannel. Trousers in flannel is the cat’s pajamas

[@ForTheLoveOfSuits]

Great video, thanks. I am a big fan of British cloth and I love flannel and mohair. however as I live in a very hot climate in the summer I do have to go light on some fabrics. But as you say there are plusses and minuses for every cloth.

[@Rei2140]

Great material, both in the video and the sample books! A lot of good information, thank you for going into such detail. I hope you kick the cold soon. Regards, Steve.

[@savilerowtales]

My pleasure Steve. In fine health now :)

[@jeffhreid]

Excellent information, subscribed

[@arvandvagharifard3032]

Thank you for the interesting information. By the way, I'm your thousandth subscriber :D

[@savilerowtales]

I owe you a pint! Thank you , Best, Tom.

[@southernsartorialist5245]

Additionally, I and I'm sure others would love a video dedicated to flannels and the various ranges from the merchants with Fall approaching very soon. I placed an order for the Minnis flannel and really am looking forward to seeing how it compares to the Italian lighter weight flannels

[@savilerowtales]

I'll try my best. Thank you for watching.

[@audiophilear698]

Thank you very much Mr. Mahon for this informative video. Is it possible that you talk about the difference in quality between handmade and machine made garments. In today’s world it is really evident that machines have advanced far and are capable of doing such high quality work, they have machines for all the tailoring chain starting from pattern cutting to finishing the garment. It is a sad that this will eventually make many tailors out of work, and I think it is an important topic to know why bespoke can not be imitated by machines. Thank you

[@davidfoster4066]

A great advisory......thank you.

[@savilerowtales]

Thank you. You're very welcome.

[@tritonus4564]

Dear Mr. Mahon, like all of your series this volume is lovely to watch and offers a real treasure of information. I believe to have understood correctly that the DB you are wearing is made oF Minnie’s Fresco III cloth. I was wondering what’s the weight of this particular fabric? I do have the Fresco III bunches book at hand, which contains only a few 14/15 ozs samples. The majority has 8/9 ozs and a couple have 9/10 ozs. Which weight do you prefer? Again, many thanks for your valuable contributions to the sartorial world. Cheers!

[@BobbyReed]

Have you ever seen Jhane Barnes' Japanese cloths? Something to behold, I must say.

[@McSnacks930]

I loved this video! I hope for more! Would you be able to cover good fabrics for the American South? I hear seersucker with a wool silk blend is great but haven’t known anyone who has used it

[@vinicius_]

This video is gold. I wish i could give it 2 likes!

[@seancoop83]

Same here!

[@savilerowtales]

Too kind :)

[@francisharding8528]

Most enjoyable and certainly informative Thank you Sir

[@savilerowtales]

Glad you enjoyed it :)

[@oscarhuynh8066]

Enjoy your videos as usual. I always learn something new... actually several things new every video. I would commission a suit from your shop if I was in the vicinity.

[@antoniopl9555]

I wish I lived there also to order a fine bespoke suit from Redmayne. Here in Spain it is difficult to find a good bespoke tailor with the exception of Madrid and some other cities but sadly on most cases we lack the magic and the elegance of British bespoke tailoring.

[@savilerowtales]

Dear Antonio, You're very welcome to try out made to measure service through the suit copying system - redmayne1860.com/pages/suit-copying-service?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1PSDBhDbARIsAPeTqregk4hfGZU02-DZ-Sr3u9ePFihouFHQP15F-W6XVIPTR4Z5eBte2F8aAu-6EALw_wcB Thanks for watching. Best, Tom.

[@antoniopl9555]

@@savilerowtales This is very good Tom. I will contact you vía email. Thanks.

[@alt5494]

Excellent advice thank you. It would be interesting to see your first opinion looking at premium Japanese cloth samples. As a outside view is useful gauge of quality.

[@savilerowtales]

I'd love to...Pretty confident it'll be good :) Best, Tom.

[@kevinnipal1012]

Hello Sir, Great video and very helpful. I was curious to know your thoughts on Harrison’s Grand Cru super 150s cloth. It is 11 oz and 330 grams. It’s a super number but has some durability with weight

[@josefk5659]

I’ve been to the largest fabric market in the world (in southern China), I have spend days pacing the corridors looking for suiting fabric. I have never seen a suiting fabric I would put on my own body. China has lots to offer for manufacturing and inexpensive textiles but for premium suiting material, it just isn’t there yet.

[@FaisalMalik-A355]

Nice

[@AlI-zk6em]

Thanks for this video! I'm enjoying your channel a lot. I would like to know how do you pad stitch those sheer lightweight wools, how do you avoid exposing the canvas? I also wonder if you use any thicker woolen fabrics. like felt, for example?

[@savilerowtales]

Best advice is not to sell sheer lightweight suit! Thanks for watching. Best, Tom.

[@rovercoupe7104]

I have an Alfred Brown suit from Marks & Spencer. M.

[@jalzola]

Mr Mahon, which Fresco is best for summer suittng, the lighter 'Lite' weights or the normal weight?

[@Justin-zw1hx]

This guy tells all the truth, if you don't know anything about fabric, just follow his advice.

[@savilerowtales]

Blimey..I do try. Thank you. Best, Tom.

[@ABC-rh7zc]

Please don't keep it so short next time. I could happily learn from you for hours! Any chance you could discuss linen/wool mixes?

[@annenominous7220]

what do you suggest in linen? I need a linen suit for a wedding, thoughts?

[@Achillez7]

What is the cost for a bespoke suit ?

[@Yoututu]

I really liked your video, where are you based?

[@savilerowtales]

Thank you. Central London and Cumberland. Best, Tom. redmayne1860.com/pages/contact-us

[@strictlyyoutube6881]

Thank you Tom. If I wanted a wardrobe of suits to take me into the next 30 years, how much would I be looking to invest? What would you recommend?

[@savilerowtales]

Dear Sir, Thank you for your comment. As we don't know you, we cant judge what you need. If you drop Redmayne an email or call then we'd be better able to help you. Best, Tom.

[@tjphalen1336]

I'm a new fan from Florida. In central Florida it's 80'f almost year round . Could you recommend a cloth for a sports coat. I would like a soft cloth.

[@savilerowtales]

Thanks for find and following us! There are many different suggestions that we could put to you but top of Mr Mahons suggestions was Holland and Sherrys Mesh and Hopsack Blazers. There are also new collections that have a similar look and feel as that from Huddersfield Fine Worsted and Standeven. Do get in touch with our office ([e-mail]) if there is anything else that we can help you with.

[@sumittiwari1387]

Good evening sir .whats Your opinion about Taylor and Lodge cloth And Schofield and Smith Worsted wool cloth ?

[@savilerowtales]

Thank you for asking. To be honest I haven't made that many of T&L and Schofield so I really can't comment. Smiths on the other hand I've used for years and its a great cloth. Best, Tom.

[@Brillions-International]

I've had a Holland & Sherry Swan Hill Super worsted 160s 8.5oz double breasted, I must say 8.5oz can already give you a very good drape yet the mobility is incredible. Why so strict on staying above 10oz?

[@savilerowtales]

Hand made , full canvas. I'd still stay above 10. Sounds like you've a lovely suit though. Best, Tom.

[@arbeitslos4247]

Which cloth do you recommend for a navy suit, for war?

[@savilerowtales]

A classic navy from Smith Woollens or Dugdale would be one of our top choices. Works for almost any occasion.

[@adrielrowley]

If don't mind, I have a couple of curiosity questions. Are there any mills still producing Super 80? Why is cloth weight becoming less and less? By the way, I have worn my Opa's late 1940s DB, of sturdy wool (maybe a 14 ounce), has a texture unlike modern worsted that I find appealing, and have worn in 100 degree weather, wasn't bad though wouldn't go for a stroll.