Choosing The Right Dive Computer

Choosing The Right Dive Computer
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A dive computer allows divers to extend their time and safety while in the water. Considered essential by most dive resorts around the world today your dive computer should be one of the first things you should buy. Since back in the 1980’s dive computers have been revolutionising the way that we dive. Before the dive computer came along you would calculate your dive time based on the maximum depth you were diving to. The dive computer changed this significantly by being able to calculate your max dive time based on the actual dive allowing multi-level diving. Modern dive computers update you constantly on how much time you have left, based on your current depth. Essentially this allows you to remain underwater for longer in safety with potentially shorter safety stops.
::Contributors::
- Simply Scuba
- Shearwater
- Scubapro
- Mares
- Suunto
- Mark Newman
- Shaun Johnson
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[@Migetsub]

gotta love my mares quad air, you guys actually had a partial influence on me buying the quad + air transmitter,

[@thesollylama130]

First is an honest assessment of how much diving you will be doing. If you are only making a few dives on the rare island vacation, then something as basic as a Mares Puck does everything you need. Most people will buy far more advanced dive computers but never use anything more than what a Puck puts on screen. If you are diving more than that, then any mid-price computer will still do more than you need. It's not until you get into multi-gas and tec diving that computers start having functionality beyond what 99% of divers ever use. Things like air integration are nice, but I found less useful than I had anticipated. And unless you spring for a higher end computer and multiple sending units, then air integration is tough for side-mount divers. Smaller size is fine if you are diving in warm water, but in cold water you will appreciate fat buttons for fingers in thick gloves. The trend has been hoseless, which is coming down in price and up in reliability. I expect that to only continue. Really the only reason to have a console computer is if it's air integrated and on a hose. Otherwise wrist mount is my suggestion. I think the next trend will be base computers and only the software will change along with pricing. Many computers already have wifi or bluetooth to connect for software updates. It would be easy to sell a computer with say- basic recreational functions. But if you decide to go more advanced instead of a new computer you just pay for a download of more advanced software.

[@delmanHD]

do you recommend any Dive computer for DNF or apnea? because I dont need any scuba features

[@ggukrzy]

Just purchased Scubapro G2 and love it...

[@Lex_chats]

Thank you for creating this video it is a big help

[@simplyscuba]

Glads its help you Gaming Help :)

[@Yggdrasil42]

I loved having an air-integrated computer (Scubapro Galileo Luna) but now that I've started sidemounting I'm going back to non-integrated. Those wireless transmitters are pretty costly if you have to buy extra.

[@douglasbrown8113]

I run a ScubaPro Aladin H Matrix which I love. It works great, is small, replaces my SPG, and it will bluetooth to my phone to download a dive profile for my divelog app. It isn't the best compass, but I don't use it for that. As a backup I have a Suunto Zoop Novo. It is super easy to use, easy to read, and I prefer the 4 button setup. I suppose it depends on whether or not you own your own regulator...or several, but I do have to say, I really like the look of Garmin's Descent Mk1.

[@dharmapunk5]

I have a Suunto Zoop Novo, and I love it.

[@terrybuchanan1]

dharmapunk5 - There is a "Personal" setting in the menus, with settable options 0, 1, and 2, which adjusts dive table compensation according to how fit you are. Adjusting this to a different setting may help to make it less conservative?

[@KimonFrousios]

I was looking for an air-integrated computer to help me get a better feel of my air consumption. I was considering the Scubapro Mantis2 for all its features (especially those out of the water) but its LCD screen is horrendous even by watch-sized LCD standards, both stylistically and practically. So I went with the Aqualung i450T with transmitter. Fewer features for similar price as the Mantis2, but much clearer screen and better aesthetics. It's a bit expensive for what it offers IMO, but it used to be on discount a lot which brought the price down closer to my expectations.

[@sillemot]

I got the Aqualung I750 last year when they were doing the deal with the regs. It's great in the water, nice and easy to read all the info. But on the surface in sunlight it is nearly impossible to see the screen. Also, it goes through batteries like I don't know what. I might have to look at something else when I emigrate to Austraila in October.

[@Djaj2000]

is the mares puck pro any good, I got one a few months ago

[@sayittrue9570]

interesting ,ive an air integrated dive console which is great,oh by the way Mark im gonna be popping down to your shop in a couple of weeks time to purchase a dry suit and a hydros bcd,hope youve got my sizes,hopeing youve got the hydros with the yellow fittings

[@cade8986]

“It’s just a lousy computer...” “It’s not just a computer... it’s a watch”

[@cristinasanchez7654]

Hi! What do you think about Cressi Goa? Is it good too? I've been told it is not very reliable, and I was looking for some advice about it.

[@ce6311]

Any suggestions for a air integrated dive computer with a gps? I’m looking at scuba pro g2 but not sure if it’s got a gps or not. I’ve heard it does but isn’t be advertised as having it.

[@pauls8799]

What do you think of the scubapro Aladdin a2? I can’t find any reviews on it which I find strange. I saw some negative feedback from people who purchased it at Amazon.

[@blindey]

I'm just starting diving, and the dive center is "giving" (Letting people use) a...I think it's the aqualung i300c? for the Try Scuba and the Open Water stuff. I asked to look at it the other day when I was buying some stuff and they're like sure. *shows it* "Hey can you turn it on?" "It is on". Couldn't see it at all. At least I could easily see the SPG. That was exactly what I was afraid of with the watch style dive computer. And having small font at all. That's why I tossed the entire idea of watch style out of my head when/if I intend to buy one.

[@SuperTighthead]

Can you change dive mode with Zoop novo straight after a dive, I’ve got mine stuck in gauge mode

[@dechlanbickers8673]

could you make a video of how to use the m2

[@Notrees]

Almost too afraid to ask, but isn't it unnecessary to have decomp stops between dives whilst freediving? I would think so, because the nitrogen saturation in the freediver's body doesn't change since they don't breath sub-surface. Sorry if I made some weird assumption, but I'm curious.

[@alexbitzan8747]

Under most circumstances, free divers do not need to worry about dcs because of lack of extended time at depth. However, when going to extreme depths, or when performing many repetitive dives to deep depths, enough nitrogen can be absorbed to cause decompression issues.

[@willsmooth45]

What upsets me a little is you show the suunto zoop novo in the thumbnail but you dont show it in the video

[@dikketwigt]

Are you Samwell Tarly from GoT?

[@simplyscuba]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/lZm1aWujrNSYbJI

[@michaelmoore4770]

Can you please review the Atmos Mission One Dive Computer? It looks like the best bang for the buck. It is priced like a enter level with a lot of the futures of the top priced units including Bluetooth and Smart Watch features. You can get texts and see missed calls while diving (not while under the water)

[@spelacekada8207]

Yes, please

[@Richfxx]

I’m looking at a shearwater Teric wrist mount with air sensor right now, nothing comes close in my opinion, if you have any advice please I’d love to here it

[@ultimateMGproduction]

Garmin mk1 but doesn't have AI

[@willsmooth45]

I rock the scuba pro g2 with air integration and a suunto zoop novo as a backup now I’m biting the bullet and investing in new first and second stage either the A700 or g260 or a cheaper regulator for my bailout that’s the reason I want a new one either I’ll buy a new primary for myself and use my current setup mk11 with c350 for my bailout and then buy the A700 or whatever what should I do Mark and shaun help me spend money #askmark

[@khaledwehbe4816]

طريقة فك mares ion hd

[@juan_sempere-valverde]

I do not recommend MARES SMART. It has a DEFECTIVE SOFTWARE. It got stuck in Apnea mode one month after the warranty was over and there is no way to reverse it. I was recommended by MARE to try the following: in ‘Set Dive’ select ‘Erase Desat’ and insert the code ‘1234’. Following this, go to ‘Mode’ and select the desired dive mode. I already found this tip online before I asked them and it did not work for me... If you read this try any other computer (e.g., I have a CRESSI EDY that is 7 years old now and works perfectly)

[@pablorivera376]

I don't like dive computers. I am going to continue using my PADI dive table and my diver's watch.

[@ericrollings]

I can’t be I Tim Allen kicked him off the show.

[@kimsiewers]

For free diving you only need a Pyle dive watch ($85). For a dive computer, you only need a Mares Puck ($145) TIP: the majority of diving fatalities are 1. run out of air 2. did not dump weights 3.had excessive weight.

[@kimsiewers]

Bogy 1 Kinoby I am correct for recreational divers.

[@johnsmith-sn1bs]

Dumping your weights is the last thing you want to do. Instead you should always dive with a buddy so you can use their alternate air source. If you can’t reach your buddy then you can do a cesa (Controlled emergency swimming ascent) I strongly encourage you to review Padi’s open water scuba course before putting out false information.

[@danh3017]

Think the only time to ditch weights would be if seperated from buddy or group and completely run out of air