How to flash and erase Amiga Eproms

[@bretttesdall2155]

Thank you very much for making this video! I was expecting that there might be a trick to doing the 32-bit Hi/Lo ROMS versus the single 16-bit ROMs, but it looks more straightforward than I had believed.

[@crumplezone1]

Thanks for telling me not to lick the UV bulb Chris as I was sorely tempted dude !!

[@lg.bus114-Mario.]

Haahahah .

[@cullmaster7361]

Wow! Excellent Video Chris 👍🏻 Many thanks for this upload 🙏🏻 This is great stuff. I have a few Amigas in my possession so this will definitely pay for me to get this setup. Glad you got sponsorship from PCB Way as well 😉

[@alanhaynes4576]

Chris, I just burned my first rom with AmigaOS3.2 onto an AMD27C4096. Similar setup as yours except my adapter is slightly different. I found with this chip I had to use the pin detect option for it to work correctly. Also had trouble with the Chineesium Big Moon eraser. One of the wires to the lamp was not connected properly. A poor solder joint. Fixed that and it worked. Thanks for your great and fun how to videos. I can now burn my Amiga Roms. Awesome video

[@nbdy32]

Do the 27c4096 eprom work in amiga, have seen the datasheet, and they are different than 27c400, but the 4096 are much cheaper than the 400 ???

[@DaneArcher]

Great video, although on a personal level I hate when a video points out how much money I've wasted on things like pre-burned roms :) Thanks for the demo!

[@MrLukealbanese]

Good vid Chris. Like to see more on the Flash ROM side next time 😀😀😀👍👍

[@corty1980]

As always great video Chris. 👍👍👍

[@andycraig7734]

UV-C is what erases them. Those other lamps tried are probably other frequencies. I erase with germicidal bulbs from other products: an electric toothbrush sanitizer worked but my favorite is an aquarium anti algae one. It's a beast and only needs two minutes on most EPROMs. Some chips need longer than others.

[@Snowcrash777]

Thanks for teaching me how to fish! ;)

[@ChrisEdwardsRestoration]

thank you !!

[@jase1438]

Thanks Chris, Love your work!

[@router5840]

Yes I learnt something again,nice video.

[@Snowcrash777]

(Edit) This tutorial is 100% IF you are working on 3.1.4 or higher (Hyperion) Kickstart and not on an older Amiga 3.1 (Cloanto) Kickstart or below. I first managed to burn Diagrom no problem because it was already in the correct format to burn like the Hyperion releases. It took a bit of searching and some trial and error (That's what the UV eraser is for lol). On an Amiga 500,600,2000, or CDTV your ROM files have to be byte swapped or you will end up with a confused Amiga. I accomplished the byte swap in my TL866 II Plus programmer in the File menu under Fill Block/Swap. I finally have successfully burned a 3.1 Kickstart ROM and the reward makes the roller coaster journey an adventure. Now I have the means to repair any model Amiga without wondering about the Kickstart version or functionality. You do this on purpose to make us learn for ourselves and I can appreciate that. Thanks again Doc!

[@andycraig7734]

I'm possibly OCD but I cover the erase window. You only need to erase one bit to render the chip useless. For phun try the outdoor test again. I bet you'll lose a bit within an hour. Don't put it behind glass etc- that may block UVC. Read it in the programner and use the compare option or use a file hash checker after saving the file.

[@krecikowi]

FYI: Glass protects from UV light, expose it to DIRECT sunlight :). I always leak my UV bulb. If you intend to burn ROM twice, it is cost effective. Considering Hyperion is updating ROMs... why not? PS. No reason, but swap byte it? BTW. Thank you for showing WHOLE process how to do it.

[@lg.bus114-Mario.]

The best ! Tnx Mr.Chris :)

[@AlenMarkov]

13$ for the Programmer was really an excellent price 2 years ago - now they are starting from 50 and above...

[@paulklasmann1218]

It's a very narrow wavelength of UV that is needed to erase the EPROMs. I left them out in direct sunlight for days and they weren't erased. I ended up getting the same cheap Chinese one you have.

[@ChrisEdwardsRestoration]

Well, I still have this units and it works OK. I ended up purchasing a spectroline from the mid 80s and that sucker has a nuclear fuel rod and will erase seven in one minute. It’s so powerful and buzzes so loud it pulls over 5 A at 120V and I have to leave the room because my eyeballs hurt internally.

[@Preview43]

Had to erase some eeproms back before I got the right jigger to do it. I had a brain fart and used the UV toothbrush cleaner I had sitting around. Wiped those buggers clean in around 3 minutes. Watching you eyeball the bare UV rays made my jaw drop. Yeah... don't do that.

[@lg.bus114-Mario.]

;) thx ,Mr . Chris.

[@T3000_retro]

Nice Video. Thanks!

[@ChrisFredriksson]

Oh also, would you be able to make a "short" video (make it as long as you want, would love a long one!) on how to program the flash version as well? Connections, setup in the software and perhaps try it out in a machine? A500/A600?

[@NorrisP]

Where do I get that funky puzzle pox screensaver???

[@ChrisEdwardsRestoration]

Its a standard linux screensaver package called xscreensaver

[@NorrisP]

Thanks dude :)

[@enigma776]

@@NorrisP There is a windows version too, as thats what I use.

[@ChrisFredriksson]

Awesome video! This comes in so handy also as I've finally - a week or two ago - decided to try this out. I'm really confused on the .rom/.bin situation but it is starting to clear up. Anyhow, just wondering, do you get all the rom/bin files with Amiga Forever? Like the 1.3 and such or only the latest, or not the latest or? Thanks for another awesome video!

[@ChrisEdwardsRestoration]

AF gives you the .rom files for use with emulators, you can convert them to binsby doing what is called "byteswapping" the program i mention REMUS does this for you, remus is located here: www.doobreynet.co.uk/beta/

[@ChrisFredriksson]

@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration Sweet, Thanks! I would love to see a video - if its "legal" to show it off of course 😁 Thanks for the reply!

[@fmlazar]

Have you made any hard versions of rooms such as 3.5, 3.9 and 3.X?

[@ChrisEdwardsRestoration]

i have a custom 3.9 rom. and wrote many others. no problem

[@mistermark8755]

Nice like how to vids great tutorial hope u have more ;)

[@combatdigiq]

1:22 Bruce Lee: "PCB boards don't hit back"

[@thomaswerner5447]

Hi I am wondering if you could flash am amigaone xe for me thanks

[@ChrisEdwardsRestoration]

With what?

[@martindianeclark7841]

Wish i could get the gear to do this at those prices, the programmer alone is £48 over here, even chinese prices are way more than $13

[@ChrisEdwardsRestoration]

dang, china junk is super cheap here., they own half our country if not more.

[@oscarmarsh29]

Bruce Lee was born in San Francisco and his parents were from Hong Kong and would have spoken Cantonese, not Mandarin Chinese. Sorry Chris.

[@ChrisEdwardsRestoration]

yeah but it was still funny

[@blekihun]

Hey, thanks for the video. Let me share some what i have learned about eproms and erasing eproms. To erase an eprom you need a specific wavelenght of UV light which is also called germicidal UV light. Those UV lights you tried will probably never erase an eprom because they produce much longer wavelenght UV light. Sunlight might do the trick, but only direct sunlight because glass is quite effective filtering out UV radiation. It also takes a stupidly long time so it is not so useful. Please : never EVER look directly into a germicidal UV light! It literally damages your DNA, damages you eyes, it is often used in hospitals to kill viruses and bacteria in the air. Actually they just loose the ability to reproduce but hey that's almost the same. I was about to buy one of those erasers but then i saw a video about it and the build quality is HORRIBLE! I would never leave it unattended if i need to use one of those devices. Crappy solder job, no fuse, exposed wires which might contact each other... I decided to build an eraser for myself then i found a robust industrial eprom eraser on a flea market for less money than those chinese craps. It is 5kg, 1000W power and has all the safety features and erases an eprom in minutes. Spectroline PR-125T/F if anyone interested. However i would recommend to anyone who wants to use phisycal roms use eeproms instead the old eproms. You'll need less gadgets and wrong eeproms can be erased simply by a click, no need UV bathing.

[@a4000t]

Dude,dont look into that UV light unless you are looking to get worse eyesight lol

[@stevelaminack1516]

All in 2022: $130. 😞

[@alanhaynes4576]

Australia

[@mollyslostsanity]

first

[@angrydove4067]

Aaaarrgh, the chinese devil PCBWAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You sold your soul, dude.

[@ChrisEdwardsRestoration]

Nah only when i actually use them for a product build