Framing your bus conversion subfloor is a mistake, do this instead

You cant build a home without a solid foundation! In this episode I cover all my favorite methods for building the strongest, highest performing skoolie subfloor possible.
My name's Chuck, I've been professionally converting buses for the last 7 years and was director of operations for a charter bus company before that but it's time for a change.....
IN THIS SERIES, follow along as I build a skoolie for myself, sharing my knowledge of buses and off-grid bus conversions along the way.
Follow me on instagram for more info
/ chuck.cassady
For paid consults, skoolie advice, solar help, and more, email
[e-mail]
Check out my shop
www.chromeyell...
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#skoolie #offgridliving #busconversion

[@1sheinz]

I really love the This Old House vibe on the intro and outro's. Very well instructed and " scoolled " video. One TIP for you from 35 years experience gluing glass and mirror to walls and ceilings INSTEAD OF LAYING OUT YOUR CAULKING LIKE A ROPE squeeeze out BLOBS A NICKEL ROUND IN A POLKA DOT FASHON ABOUT 8-12 INCHES APART AND STAGGERED. This will SAVE you 50% in caulking and give you about 400% better adhesion . After years of pulling out others work proves that DOTS OR BLOBS will STICK 100% OF THE TIME and ROPE WILL STICK 20-30% OF THE TIME. The reasoning for this is that when gunning out the caulking in a rope the thickness of the bead is so inconsistant only the thick parts will make contact and the thin parts will not stick to both sides of the objects. You will acheive a better and more level application. With mirrors the reflection must be perfect in order to look good, you dont want to see a reflection of a door ,window or the room itself being crooked . Dots will spread out making perfect contact with both sides and be better to level between each other. Even though you add weight on top there will still be a 1/16" or a 32 of an inch of space between them and some areas of the rope design just dont make contact.

[@57z]

Game changing comment 🎉

[@DaveDrawing]

As a former tile-setter, I think using a notch trowel to spread the adhesive would make for a better bond, especially between the foam sheets, and between the foam and the subflooring. If there were 4'x8' ceramic tiles, that's how you'd do it!

[@jeeper426]

i was thinking the same thing "this old bus with Chuck Cassady"

[@smileyginger1]

I think maybe one of the differences is they are placing a LOT of weight on the boards to ensure good contact and spread of the adhesive, whereas with hanging tile or glass you can only put so much pressure on something vertical.

[@wodinsc]

He even looks like a young Bob Villa.

[@tammychilders9237]

As a single female building out her first bus to live in, I've researched ea. Step and watched 1000 of hours if videos.. and I wish i came across u sooner!!! ❤

[@auntiem75]

76 y/o female and I just found this. Luckily before I started my build. 😁👍

[@PaulaScarcelli]

Same

[@joeblow1942]

SUBFLOOR MATERIALS: 1) Chassis Saver paint on rusty but clean floor. 2) 11:24 Owens Corning Foamular 250 NGX Extruded Poly Styrene insulation sheets, 4 x 8 x 2” thick X 2 = 4” thick. (This is very dense. Not to be confused w/ Expanded Poly Styrene which has little balls like styrofoam.) 3) 16:05 Advantek Engineered OSB, 4 x 8 x 3/4”. (This is tight and highly weather and warp proof. Not to be confused w/ cheap flaky OSB.). 4). Everything is glued down w/ big tubes of Loctite PL3X. One tube per 4 X 8 sheet. (Dries much faster and is stronger than Liquid Nails.)

[@mollyfitzsimmons9220]

Thanks! I was just looking for this info ;)

[@walttramontana8320]

Great summarization. Thanks!

[@samuelfox8126]

The foam is XPS.

[@joeblow1942]

@@samuelfox8126 Yes. Owens Corning Foamular NGX 250 Extruded Poly Styrene is XPS.

[@AM50red]

@joeblow1942 what about the final primer on top the osb?

[@LifeinaBus]

Man, I’ve watched this one quite a few times now. So damn valuable Chuck! Thank you dude. An in depth video on how you do your cabin area would be massively useful and popular in the bus conversion community. Nobody covers this in depth, and your wealth of knowledge would generate the best version of that build video. Even just an overview and explanation of your methods would be so freaking useful. Just throwing it out there, man! Thanks again for all that you do!

[@missingegg]

I find all of Chuck's advice tremendously helpful. However, he left one thing out, and I just did it wrong! When laying the Advantek subfloor, you want the exposed edge of your first panel to have the side with the groove exposed, not the side with the tongue exposed! Sadly, I've just come back to glue down my second piece of subfloor, and discovered that it's going to be very hard to slot the exposed tongue into the groove of the new panel coming in. Once I realized I didn't know how to do it, I went and found a Huber educational video about their product, and they make it clear that I've got it flipped around. My sorrow, but maybe someone will learn from my mistake!

[@NomadicHooker]

Great tip to bring to light. I can see how it can be easy to make this mistake if you're not mindful of it before you lay your first piece or making your cuts on your following pieces. Those can be VERY EXPENSIVE mistakes using Advantech. I was luck enough, I scored by Advantech for $32 a sheet. It's back up to $50 a sheet now but still far better than $100 a sheet.

[@PrairieGypsy]

Thank you, I would be that person who missed that detail.

[@paulmryglod4802]

This guy has hands-down produced the most informed build/teach programs related to all things rubbertramp

[@chase9558]

Great video, I used a rust converter on my trailer frame, it was pretty cool watching the brown rust turn black..then paint with a good paint you like.. But you are showing options, and that’s the true value in you’re videos🙋🏻‍♂️ keep up the great content 👍🏼

[@IppiopaidFEEDBACK]

10:23 What a smart man! I agree 100% with this,I never understand why people frame out the subfloor in bus conversions. I’ve seen this foam as the underlay the ramp going down to the garage just before they pour concrete over it. They also use it as a base in swampy areas so they can drive trucks over it. I’ve been doing construction for years, we put this on basement subfloor’s before we pour concrete over it, or put it on a concrete subfloor and put plywood over it, and we never frame it out. I never understood why people did that during RV builds.

[@endlessautonomy]

I bought a 40' BB All American from Tony at AAA Bus. I'm in the process of doing the build. Your videos have been INVALUABLE to me in this process. THANK YOU ! ! !

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Glad to help

[@magnoliathebus]

revisited this because we're getting ready to lay down our floor and I knew you had talked about hatches and such for access later, and the best way to build them in. I remembered correctly. You're a rock star, Charlie!

[@b-rok7174]

I've said it before and I'll say it again... This guy is THE AUTHORITY in all things skoolie. I learn so much with every video! If you want it done right... watch how Chuck does it and follow his instruction.

[@EffieG-ez9tf]

I’ve started keeping a “Chuck Says” notebook to refer back to on each step such as electric, solar, plumbing, etc. Sometimes I wonder how he manages to keep all this knowledge in his head at one time! Then I remember, oh yeh, he’s just a youngster….they remember everything. I’m 74 and lucky if I remember what I ate for breakfast!

[@jeffreyharville1918]

You may already do this, but, cut a plug out of your 2 inch foam, that will fit tightly in the fuel access hole. Then glue that to your cover. Adds a bit more insulation to a cold-well, and will help with rattle sometime down the road. Great Job! Good Ideas and execution! Thankyou for these methods of flooring.

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thanks! I'll be using a piece of 4" i have laying around, thanks for watching! subscribe and stick around :)

[@1truthseeking8]

​​@@ChuckCassadyYT question: do you plan to LIVE 24/7/365 in this or just two weeks a year? Are you designing for ALL climates/seasons or a targeted range? WHAT are you doing about Moisture/CONDENSATION? Dead air spaces versus rotating air columns inside insulated or non insulated spaces? MOLD? it seems most people that do these do minimal insulation AND sell between 3 to 5 years --- which is the time frame where most major mold is BOOMING ... have you looked into "VIP" (Vacuum Insulation Panels), ceramic vacuum sphere paint?, wool, and external insulation such as spray foam on the outside and then coverings with a skin/shell... EDIT: also in terms of full time living all seasons... : how do/do you insulate water tanks/ water tank compartments and control for moisture AND thermal bridging &, Condensation?

[@jenpen1022]

​​@1truthseeking8 he has other videos addressing most of what you are inquiring about

[@stantissue2065]

Advantech is an awesome product. Looking at a piece right now. It has been in the weather since 2021. Still good. I am also wearing PL right now, and it has been almost two years since I first installed it on my pants. Do not settle for anything less, everything else washes off eventually, but PL remains. It is also on the bottom of my work boots, which have actually been working. They recently helped put out a forest fire. PL is still there. I rest my case.

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

hahaha that is one of the best comments ive gotten in a while. i also have a piece of advantech in my backyard since 2021--still looks fine! thanks for making me chuckle

[@1980JPA]

Thanks for sharing this stuff man. Great job. Tiny tip from a contractor, whenever I've had to do similar glue-ups I spread the glue with a notched trowel after squirting it everywhere. Probably wouldn't make a huge difference, and yes, it's messy. But like you, I like to take any chance I can to over-engineer, or go the extra step when creating something intended to last for years. BTW, even with all my experience I'm learning so much from your vids where the general materials I use everyday intersect with bus building. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us. I'm always looking to learn more from someone who has already been where I'd like to go.

[@bettyteh7745]

He is so meticulous, careful and detail. Great job and I just love watching the work done.

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you betty!

[@G_Fresh_]

I wish I had seen this before I tested like 10 different adhesives to painted metal/xps/wood. I arrived at the same conclusion! I glued my van floor in with that exact Loctite PL 3x. Holding strong for 2 years now!

[@richwalsh6510]

Best bus builder on KZbin

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you Rich!

[@robertkb64]

Best use for polyiso: the inner layer on your ceiling. This is especially useful where you have unlimited height (ex: you raised your roofline, but aren’t coming close to the height restrictions where you live/drive) as it allows you to use less expensive bulk insulation (like batting) and then have a single polyiso layer on the inside which will both even out your temperature and let you get the full benefit of it as you’ll almost always keep the inside of your bus (or tiny home) above the degradation temperature.

[@elijah_thornberry]

I love this approach and the critical thinking involved. I'd like to apply a lot of the processes and ideas here to the installation of a subfloor to my sprinter van. Unfortunately the floors of my vehicle has a series of ridges and troughs that are about 1 half inch each at different levels. I would love to put XPF right on top, but I'm afraid that although it's compressive strength is adequate for your purposes, that the unequal pressure applied by the shape of the floor could compromise it either by cracking it or compressing it in unpredictable ways where heavier objects placed above it will compress it more. I THINK this might be why some van converters use battens, even though it introduces such heinous thermal bridging. I can think of a few approaches to address this potential issue: - sandwich XPF between two layers of plywood product (I already have the OEM one I could use for the bottom layer) - Get a more compressable XPF and let it mold to the contours of the surface below it - Put a layer of XPF in between structural battons and another over the battons and the first layer of XPF What I'll probably do though, is buy Advantech and some XPF 200, jump on it, and see what happens! Would love to know what you think about how XPF would behave in this type of situation

[@elijah_thornberry]

​ @dariuszmrowca1177 still repainting the floor, but I have been able to handle some XPF and it may actually be up to this task. I have tried to find van-oriented videos about this, but I've only really found instances of people filling in the “valleys” with microcell. This seems fine, and may be optimal because structural issue I mentioned before, but thermally, I don’t think it’s necessary because of the thermal bridge of the XPF contacting the high points of the van floor. So you might as well just provide that support with any other material, like wood (although it probably does have some really solid sound-deadening properties). On another note, the R value of (non-ventilated) air is about the same as that of XPF, so if you could successfully seal it off it would be even more pointless, but I guess pointlessness is absolute so that doesn’t really matter. Then again, that might create a sort of drum, where the reverberations of the floor would bounce around under the XPF, and be noisy.

[@RollingLiving]

I'm right there with you on the floor sandwich and we also like the PL polyurethane adhesive...and I've used that on lots of bus floors. But we've recently switched to the foam polyurethane adhesives, after some strength and coverage testing. Foam cans, used with a screw-on gun, like the Dap SmartBond or Advantech seem to fill voids better and give better coverage per $$. You might look into those. 🙂

[@REGRETLYSS1]

These highly educational videos of yours are truly improving and enriching people's lives. Thanks for another great video Charlie. :)

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you Alyssa. Your videos are so real and honest...they enrich people's lives, I'm sure❤️

[@wesm3915]

Quality work on the floor. I'm on my sixth 40' motorcoach, and currently have three 40'ers, one 35', one 33' and one six window 6x6 bus.

[@brennonmorning9682]

this man speaks with so much wisdom yet humility. forever grateful for you videos Chuck 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Well shucks thank you so kindly!

[@kittywampusdrums4963]

Honestly the BEST weatherproofing I've used for years on chasis and metal has been to take a gallon of tar and thin it out with gas or mineral spirits and brush a couple layers on. NOTHIGN gets through tar and it NEVER leaks. Cheap and best. Treat your metal with acid then throw some tar over it and your done. Lay some 30# felt paper down between your subfloor and steel too.

[@kevinacronin]

Claim the term "World's leading Schoolie conversion expert" - seriously, it's yours for the claiming & your willingness to display & share this knowledge is evidence to support it. Thanks Chuck. Really inspirational & informational. Hey, everyone Chuck is the World's Leading Schoolie Conversion Expert. (there ya go)

[@tiffanywilkins4239]

I love your work! Your voice, presentation, expertise, and knowledge reminds me of great times watching This Old House when I was a kid.

[@lifeisagift.cherisheverymoment]

Charlie would be great in This Old Skoolie. :)

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you soooo much!

[@mdkern0438]

The Bob Vila of bus building.

[@57z]

You're a fantastic teacher. Excellent content. I've watched many many many building videos in many genres of construction, hobbies, gardening, auto, etc. you're a top quality instructor. The "why" you give is salient and reasoned Please keep up the videos

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Appreciate this comment a lot! Thanks for watching

[@idelect]

This series is fantastic. Please please keep them coming through this project completion and beyond!

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you! That's the plan

[@NeverPutInWriting]

I really appreciate that you go into detail and the WHY's in your videos. I also appreciate that you give budget friendly options. Thanks so much for taking the time to share your insight and experience

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you! I get a surprising mix of folks like you and folks who think I am too detailed....I can't help myself!

[@BenFortner]

I'm sitting in my new tour bus, a 1999 International Bluebird 3800 T444e, listening to the rain patter against the steel. I'm staring at this floor again that I haven't taken any action on because I was sure there was things I needed to know but was worried I would only get them from experience. Thank you sir. You just simplified everything by sharing the full experience.

[@natalieritchie3128]

I just bought a bus a week ago and glad i found this before building

[@FatigueZ]

If someone were deadset on filling the floor holes, rather spend the time and tedious work welding, purchase rubber grommits that size and apply the chasis saver over it to create the seal! And anytime you weld you should corrosion protect both sides. That chasis saver should ideally cover both sides of the floor!

[@roadsouzinkie]

I really appreciate the time you take to explain the products you use.

[@sacredcowbbq1326]

You are an innate teacher. Excellent explanations. This is an amazing education. Thank you so much. You should have 1 million subs!

[@petedude2lu3]

the floor hatch tip is now.saving my life, my party launched for burning man and got 90mi before fuel pump failure. they are now unloading bus, i had to build a bed frame (removable) atop the pump.

[@scottj103]

Another awesome and very informative video, Charlie! I am so thankful that you started these videos right when I started gutting my bus. You have become my goto person for the best bus building info. Thanks for doing what you do, Charlie!

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you Scott! I'm making these exactly for folks like you!

[@boris552]

You're a natural! Another really helpful video. Thanks for making this series, I'm learning a lot!

[@tonverfall_studio]

Just want to say 'thanks!' for this video series. I will be adapting a lot of your ideas and materials to a cargo trailer conversion I'm planning out right now. This flooring video and the one on doing walls to avoid thermal bridging have been real eye-openers. Thanks!!

[@karylm23]

Pro job, Charlie, Dayum! I appreciate that you explain the 'whys' of your build. I'm also appreciating you explaining why you choose certain materials and tools.

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you so much! I want to share it all

[@adventuresofsoulmanandlitt4573]

Chuck, I think I would watch your videos even if I wasn't shopping for a bus to covert! I really enjoy them, thanks for your hard work.

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Wow, thanks! i appreciate that :)

[@smileyginger1]

getting caught up on your videos after having not watched in a while and as always, a wealth of information. Particularly interested in checking out home applications for the Advantech as I, too, have always thought "OSB is garbage" especially in our rather humid summer/damp winter climate. I keep seeing other build videos where they continue to do the 2x4 framing on the floor and I don't understand it. Seeing your builds makes it pretty clear that it's more economical (both in total materials and heat transfer) to do it your way. Plus not having to cut the foam in a bunch of small pieces to fit in the wood framing to me means less waste and a faster floor - and while faster's not always better, in this case it makes total sense. thanks for continuing to share your knowledge!!

[@Lozenhimer]

these videos are GEMS!!...thank you for all you do to pass along this information!

[@lifeisagift.cherisheverymoment]

This video is a wealth of information, experience, and advise. Excellent job, Charlie.

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Appreciate that james!

[@stanmarion550]

I am so glad to see a floor done right in a bus build!

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you!

[@justmike1529]

Not only a how to but a why to Video. Very generous of you as a true craftsman to share the hard earned knowledge and experience. Thanks. As a former Framer if there is one suggestion I could make… Please wear some knee pads. After years of crawling around laying out and nailing out I only wish I would have worn what we considered to be back then those Sissy kneepads. So happy they make spare parts I’ve had both knees replaced and crawling around all that time was a real factor in their deterioration. Thanks for taking the time to make this very practical and informative videos.

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thanks just Mike! And you're dead on. I have some great kneepads, but in the heat of the filming I didn't get them. You should have seen this case of bursitis I got a few months ago....my pants barely fit over my knees!

[@teddyrivas1082]

just Love your concept. and it work perfectly! great professional job! if I decide to get a Schoolie your the person to look for , for putting in the floor, and probably the electronic systems as well, excellent job!

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Please do! Thank you so much for watching

[@chrisdaniel1339]

Great job explaining why you build the way you do in your skoolie builds. You may achieve the most consistent bond between layers by blobbing on the adhesive and then using a 1/8" V notched trowel to give a perfect consistent layer of PL adhesive. I was going to use 3" of foam insulation in my overlander build, but to see someone using 4" of insulation - I am impressed!

[@JamesEDennison]

Hello Chuck, I found your channel a few months ago and have been watching your videos, I started my bus conversion almost 8 years ago and have enjoyed watching you and your team work, my bus is not a schoolie but a 1971 MCI MC7 which I stretched to 45 feet, raised the roof 12 inches and built 3 slideouts in, which is part of the reason it's taken me 8 years to get this far, while I didn't do everything the way you have for various reasons, I can't find anything you have done that I disagree with, though there are things I wish I had done the way you do, MCI buses have a sloped floor so to level that out I did run stringers across the bus in different thicknesses to compensate, not necessary if no slideouts are involved but definitely easier with slides, I've been living in it and continuing the build for the last 3 years in southwestern Canada in temperatures ranging from 115 degrees to -30 degrees and can confirm from experience that your construction methods are sound, I've worked in the custom car industry as well as tugboat industry and we used the same construction techniques in those industries as well so can confirm they are valid, Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge.... James.... Oh, and I have my build on a KZbin channel as well if you wanted to check out everything I did wrong...😊😛

[@ZWill07]

An absolute masterclass. Thank you, Chuck.

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Very welcome

[@tylersmithking]

This information is invaluable 🔥 You provide so much information with key details explained thoroughly. Thank you thank you thank you 🙏🏼

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you for watching!

[@elizabethireland6320]

again no thumbs up icon, excellent tutorial! Thank you!

[@BasicallyNomads]

Watched the whole thing! Learned a ton! Love to see your dedication to doing things right the first time. I know it’ll come in handy at gutted haha

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Hell yeah I'm really stoked

[@daviddring8692]

Brilliant video. I'm in England & have told many KZbin van converters. Silly screwing battens down. Glue pir (UK called) down. They're not bus's like yours. Sprinters/crafter etc. With corrugated floors. No one has listened to me. But now I have a professional guy who I can refer to. I watched your conversion of Allyssa. Great. But too be honest. I did not like the door. Looked really odd. But as I'm sure you know, she's sold it now. Hope she finds a husband. As I really feel she needs one. Only just found your channel. I've subscribed..

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you!

[@daveparizek]

Thank YOU! All the detail is hugely appreciated!!

[@functionalvanconversion4284]

Wow, you cover so many important topics related to housing/materials/chemistry. Thanks 😊

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

My pleasure 😊

[@godseeker7628]

You do such a great job of educating others! Have you thought of sharing your knowledge via a school, maybe even skillshare?

[@kevineyster1ify]

When you do what you love and spend years perfecting your craft it's not a stretch to be good at teaching your craft

[@smileycamel5635]

Damn ....i im watching your vids in prepatoey for my truck camper build.....now , ya basta , you got this me wanting a skoolie.....hell fire damn!

[@lamh5265]

That was great. I rest on Sunday. OR I will watch you monday. You made it look effortless. But, it wasn't you are just a methodical patient person. That personality makes for great musicians too.

[@mikefranks4528]

Thank you for sharing the AdvanTech subfloor. Just read up on the specs. Picking it up tomorrow for my van.

[@michaeldeckert6023]

You are a great teacher!! Outstanding job ...

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you!

[@shawnmolden5541]

Looking to build a Skoolie and so glad I found your content. Honestly the most valuable information and such clear and knowledgeable content. Thank you for making these videos!! Will be watching all your videos i can!

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Welcome aboard! thanks for tuning in

[@tedwaruszewski2652]

Charlie, have you ever insulated the underside of the floor? If so, what would you recommend? I realize the downside of cold transfer of floor joists. The reason I am thinking of this would be to avoid doing a roof raise (I’m 6’4”).

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

I haven't, for many reasons, but you will want to clean the undercarriage extremely well first and top coat the foam after install. My main concern would be creating moisture pockets that lead to rust

[@ochjoo77]

Wish I had this video available when I did my boxtruck, so many usefully tips and informations!!

[@Story_Rice]

Brake air lines don’t like slag either!! Great info and video!

[@YeshuaKingMessiah]

THIS OLD SKOOLIE Keep ‘em comin!

[@JakeTownsley]

These videos are f**king awesome please keep these going!!!

[@MrZaddock]

This is the channel ive been looking for

[@bussolar]

I Love your videos, cause I’m Brazilian and I can understand everything. Your English is awesome

[@glenngray3119]

I believe if you are going to do much more adhesive laying you might want a Milwaukee rechargeable caulking gun. I bought one to do a subfloor and will never go back to using my fingers to squeeze a caulking gun again. Really easy to just press a trigger and let the adhesive flow. Takes a bit of getting used to but WOW what a difference. The tool has done probably over a hundred tubes and is still going strong.

[@DaveDrawing]

Love your videos, liked and subbed! I was pricing the foam sheets, and found that not only is the four inch stuff impossible to find, two 2" sheets ($42 USD each) cost less than one 4" sheet ($107 USD) , so, aside from the glue-up, it's cheaper! Keep up the good work, I've learned a lot from your videos.

[@trevorrisley5419]

@DaveDrawing, what city and state do you live in, brother? The Foamular 2” XPS foam board is over $60 on my market. ☹️ If I purchase enough, it may be worth it to travel to save money. Thank you!

[@DaveDrawing]

@@trevorrisley5419 I'm in Richmond, Indiana. Our local Menard's sells the 4'x8'x2" for $41.33 USD, even eight months after I made that comment! Where are you?

[@nateboer]

Pennsylvania $54 @@DaveDrawing

[@DaveDrawing]

@@nateboer well, it IS a year later...

[@caveone-365]

Big can is basically knock off version of Por-15. Definitely great stuff, and it does prefer 'seasoned' metal. The older and more exposed metal, the better it'll adhere. Coffee scooper or something equivalent is the best to use to scoop it out of the can into a disposable container. That way you keep the paint from getting into the seam in the can where the lid goes. This will make it so you can reuse the can/ paint and get it off again. If you spill enough paint in that groove you'll have to literally destroy the can to get it open again. Not a big deal if you're using the whole can, but as you said, a little goes a long way, and at the price of it, it makes sense not to waste it. I know this as I've used it on track car chassis and rust repair situations over the years. It's really great stuff, and definitely good to use if you live in the rust belt. Good video, I enjoyed it. 😎👍

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

thanks for the tips and watching this video!

[@zoochdjz]

I’ve been looking for a video just like this. Informative and great job. Thank you! Excellent video

[@reddsmorris7053]

Thank you for the help in deciding on what I will do.

[@2krazy2handle]

I just bought a 2006 ce 200 int with the dreaded 6.0 VT 365 medium bud out of Texas got it fully inspected and it purrs just fine and no rust. Anyways after looking for the right person on KZbin to teach me valuable information on my build. You sir are now my teacher. Green or red apple?

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Haha thank you! Green!

[@mmsmits2868]

Excellent. Just excellent - as usual. Thank you!

[@hmcfadin]

Wow Charlie! What a great video - full of useful tidbits of information, product recommendations and skilled demonstration! While I don't have plans to convert a bus at the moment, I'm sure I will use some of these tips, techniques or products on some of my other projects soon. Thanks for making and sharing these videos! Such a great teacher!

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thank you!

[@julioaguirre553]

The chassis saver takes 30-60 days to fully cure, so that window of time while curing allows for whatever you're putting over it to stick better.. Great video by the way!

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thanks for watching!

[@kaleidiatrikos]

Knowledgeable and generous. Thank you, thank you.

[@derekog2090]

This video is so much better quality and has extensive thought process

[@henryhanson505]

Having a industrial painting background I'm with you on the floor demo.. I took it a step further and sandblasted the floor and up a foot on the walls.. the best paint is a industrial bridge paint called Wasser moisture cured urethane.. mio zinz for prime/ two coats and two coats of luster from Wasser.. I also did the under carriage..

[@jasminemccrory3143]

Hey, Chuck can you do a detailed how to on how to do the roof & side walls please! I’m trying to convert my bus into a spa bus but I have little help & this floor video gave me all the knowledge I need to do my floors! Thank you!

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

I have a whole series

[@johnnylightning1491]

First off thanks for the heads up on the Chassis Saver. I need to touch up some spots on my RV and chassis saver sounds like the way to go. My only other comment is I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to radius the corners on the access panel. I realize there is structure underneath but square corners are just more susceptible to cracking. All in all a great job. Anybody want to buy a pint of Black Rust-o-leum and some rust converter? Keep the good stuff coming.

[@Albert_206]

Hi Chuck, most of the time I do not like google using it’s algorithm on me, now I am glad, I saw another video on insulation and now this one and now I know my doubts on wrong insulation methods and insulation in general. Hopefully the paint product you showed is sold in Europe as well. Many thanks, Albert 🇳🇱

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

thanks for watching!

[@17STREETDMV]

Thanks for the Intel !!!

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Any time!

[@Regionzen]

Best Skoolie content out there. Keep it up!!!

[@dianakim6190]

The best, most comprehensive build video I have seen so far! Two questions: 1) Does the paint on top of wood act as vapor barrier or do you not subscribe to the need for a vapor barrier? 2) When you don’t patch holes in the floor, I assume you mean the tiny screw holes, but how would you patch up larger holes from coolant/heater hoses and such - assuming you’d want to patch big holes? Your videos are so helpful and I can’t thank you enough for making these!

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

im not worried about a vapor barrier yet as that will be a part of the finished floor when i install that. this bus has none of those holes but on the ones that do, we use a scrap piece of sheetmetal and glue it down! great questions, thanks!

[@karylm23]

Question: what do you do if your metal pan isn't perfectly flat but has channels? Do you fill the channels with wood? Foam?

[@theresadunn6857]

I'm a total Newbie currently in the research stage of purchasing a retired shortbus from a local transport company and doing a simple yet functional build for camping and short excursions... My question is: After watching your You Tube on Installing a Frameless Subfloor,which looks to be doable, How do you secure cabinetry? Futon to keep them in place? I'm going to purchase my cabinets from my local Habitat for Humanity RESTORE.

[@pamzanon6599]

i know this is a schoolie video but im converting a van and love your videos. is there a followup video to this where you finish the floor?

[@michaelmanphotography5013]

Wonderful tips, thanks! It think that window and door conduction, and convection from inevitable air leaks in windows and doors, will offset a lot of gains from the extensive work to achieve R20 in the floors. A couple of inches of insulation (to at least match the double pane window R value), a good heater and lots of warm clothes for the winter, and lots of air movement for the summer, would be more practical, especially for tighter builds than a spacious school bus. Nonetheless I like your no nonsense approaches.

[@carolineblew9046]

Great soap box...I always learn so much

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thanks for watching

[@rvgalpals7245]

I have been wondering what paint to put on the chassis of my old motor home renovation. Now thanks to your video intro I’m on the hunt for Chassis Saver.

[@acme511]

I also agree with not using framing but instead of the OSB I used Coosa Board, never rots.

[@regmiles]

Here in the rainy Pacific NW I noticed the first signs that the windows of my 24' 2009 International six window bus were in need of some sealing, where the exterior sill met the sides of the window frame. That's where there was some minor leaking on a couple of the rear driver's side windows, while it was parked. I have no garage to park it in. So, I'm hoping to keep the weather out. There's also some sort of vent on top just forward of the front emergency hatch. I wonder if that might become a place for the weather to enter.

[@holty2604]

Another enjoyable masterclass 👌🏻👌🏻

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

Thanks Paul

[@Lowlitstudio]

Hugely appreciate your valuable information

[@sasquatchskoolie8081]

Love this....it looks fantastic!!!

[@MrGundawindy]

I walked out of the room while watching this video. Came back to hear you talking about some hot slag. I thought, that's no way to talk about a lady. Then I skipped back and heard the context. 😜😂😂

[@ritah.6752]

Professional looking subfloor! I will definitely follow this method when I start my build. New subscriber!

[@davejones3878]

Love it. Learning lots. Thank you! 👍🏼🙏🏼

[@dancarter482]

On another planet ; I'm restoring my '98 Mercedes bus and welding the internal bulkhead structure. Had planned to weld a giant cage within the shell structure, but hadn't figured on the cold-bridge aspect. There IS no floor pan, it's an open frame that I was going to weld vertical steels to. But now it looks like I'm going to have to assemble an insulated floor beneath all structural supports - big project just got bigger!

[@ChuckCassadyYT]

They have a tendency to Do that!