Chypre Siam by Rogue Perfumery & a Primer on Chypres

[@dhoakohime]

Darn... I would love if you had a channel about perfumes....I live your taste and how deeply you review each perfume...

[@TheHoodedLid]

Thank you! I do have a perfume playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLNLcrtv31aesLoDbL8Bfj49lfZFOd1CQA

[@nisipici]

I found Rogue/Manuel Cross when I was trying to find non-IFRA compliant indies. I own Chypre Siam as well as his Jasmin Antique. Great perfumer and I’m so glad you are bringing attention to the brand.

[@Lee-ofar]

Great review, thank you! I just got the rogue discovery set and can’t wait to try them all

[@debrashulman362]

I also love chypres. My first adult perfume - that I chose when I was 14 - was "Crepe de Chine" by Millot. I also wore "Halston" in my early 20's. In my 30's I wore "Niki de Saint Phalle," another chypre. (I have worn many other perfumes through the years, of course!) I have just discovered Chypre Siam and planning to purchase a bottle. This is the first video I have seen of yours and will now subscribe, although I am not really interested in make-up.

[@TheHoodedLid]

I have a dupe of Crepe de Chine by Long Lost Perfumes! So pretty. I LOVED Halston as a teen and bought a couple of older bottles on ebay a few years ago. Niki de Saint Phalle, sadly, I never ran into and you know, if you can't have the first formulation, you'll never know what it was. I think you'll enjoy Chypre Siam. Let me know what you think!

[@dantopster]

Revisiting my comment below - since then I did buy Chypre Siam, also Bon Monsieur and just placed an order for Mousse Illuminee. Rogue Perfumery can't do wrong. I hope you make more fragrance videos soon.

[@elkedenny]

That is why N0. 19 is my all time favorite since 40 years now.. Sycamore is also very interesting for the winter time. Interesting video!

[@TheHoodedLid]

I love 19 in summer...but there's no real oakmoss in that - I think of it as "Chypre lite"!

[@sprivate1333]

Such a well done video. thank you. I will now be looking to try a few of these.

[@TheHoodedLid]

Wonderful! Thanks for watching!

[@tiffanybrady8936]

My absolute favorite was Diorella by Christian Dior. I didn't know it then, but most of my favorite perfumes were chypres. Sigh. So many good ones. Thank you for this video; I must get a sample of Chypre Siam!

[@TheHoodedLid]

I love Diorella and have a smidge of a vintage of it.

[@sunsetandmoonlight5479]

I'm usually not attracted to chypres at all but your video makes me want to reconsider and explore this genre. One I found interesting is Chloé Nomade, even if I'm not a fan of the house, this one caught my attention, but I don't think I'll ever be able to wear since it is a floral chypre, and that's not something I associate myself with at all for some reason ! Also, I too was very surprised to see so many makeup KZbinrs suddenly find themselves a "passion" for perfume, I guess they want to branch out and expand their influence but honestly I can't stand seeing House of sillage and other supposedly luxury fragrance brands anymore ...

[@TheHoodedLid]

A girl after my own heart! You might like L'Temps d'une Fete from Parfums di Nicolai. Chloe Nomad is first commercial perfume I've bought in years and I think it's very impressive. If it's too much for you, Chypre might not be your thing - but it is more of a fruity chypre, so maybe give a floral a try.

[@sunsetandmoonlight5479]

@@TheHoodedLid Thank you so much 😍 I searched for the sample I had of Nomade I had somewhere and I'll test it on skin tomorrow 🤩 After watching your video I went on Nicolaï's website and their line looks very promising but unfortunately Le temps d'une fête is not listed anymore :( The notes I read on fragrantica sounded fabulous but I think it's discontinued ?

[@TheHoodedLid]

@@sunsetandmoonlight5479 Yes, I mentioned this in the video...Le temps d'une fete is no longer in production - but they will make it for you. You have to call them to place an order. I emailed a few years ago and never heard back from them

[@sunsetandmoonlight5479]

@@TheHoodedLid Sorry 🙈🙊 I heard that but I thought you meant they would recreate any other perfume as in from any other brand and I thought wow that's amazing 🤣

[@TheHoodedLid]

@@sunsetandmoonlight5479 that would be something! But, alas, just their perfumes no longer in production. A good think since the two I love from this line are no longer being made.

[@samelders3441]

Great video! I’ve never smelled halston or aromatics elixir but will now because of you!! I also really like Chypre Mousse by Oriza LeGrande that’s my first buy so far!❤

[@mariac1437]

Please do more perfume videos, I’m getting so into fragrance. I just watched Michele wangs video, loved it

[@TheHoodedLid]

I will! Thanks, Maria!

[@dantopster]

I own Jasmine Antique, super stinky indolic jasmine, and Champs Lunaires - in my opinion the best tuberose perfume ever made. I have a sample of Chypre Siam but I was never able to make up my mind and pull the trigger on it. I'd love if you made more fragrance videos!

[@ciganyweaverandherperiwink6293]

I wish this channel had more fragrance videos too, she does such a great job with them. So entertaining and engrossing.

[@cindydiane9791]

I’m new-ish to the perfume game. I do love learning more about the different components. I bought Mitsouko over a year ago blind, due to a rave review. Thank you for letting me know it’s a chipre lol.

[@TheHoodedLid]

You're so welcome, Cindy!

[@LifeWithFlowers]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🌿🌸

[@TheHoodedLid]

Thanks for watching EJ!

[@BeautyHasBeenX]

This sounds beautiful.. and you’re looking gorgeous as always 💞💞💞💞xx

[@TheHoodedLid]

Thank you so much!!

[@BeautyHasBeenX]

@@TheHoodedLid ❤️

[@ladykokob9149]

I adore Mitsouko and have worn it for 40 something years and the reformulation is fine over the time ( oh how I wish it was like it was in the 70's - thick and delish ) but poor old L'Heure Bleue is not like it used to be and what has happened to Caron's chypre called infini ... oh dear. I loved it and was my first "real" perfume when I was given it at the age of 16. I believe Chanel does not use natural Civet anymore in their scents. I used to save my "special ones" but ..... you know, life is short and we could get hit by a bus! lol I am using my Iris Ganache by Guerlain !! God its great . Oh.... so agree with you with the "I like it because its pretty!" and another one I hate is " really nice packaging" perfume review. lol

[@TheHoodedLid]

L'Heure Bleue is just a shell of its previous beauty - so sad.

[@ciganyweaverandherperiwink6293]

Mousse Illuminee WAS an incomparable masterpiece. It was out of stock all over the UK and Europe, and with Manuel himself for a long while. When he announced that it would soon be shipped and back in stock for his European and British fans I was so excited. I bought a bottle and when I smelled it I almost cried with disappointment. This is NOT the same as it used to be. And when you're talking about changes in chypres with VERY strong oakmoss in them, any change is incredibly noticeable and I'd say, dangerous. This new (repackaged in new bottle design) version is horrible. The original had this wonderful water-soaked pine forest invigorating 'lift' about it with a tailwind chaser running through it of an almost mentholated, spearmint and lemonade freshness. It had such dimension, was so bracing and verdant and full of morning dew... Now this new one has had its character punched right out of it and it's been flattened to a REALLY bitter, green, lifeless, bone dry nothing. I could weep, I really could. And the very worst of it is that it now generates the most EPIC nausea headaches in me. I know it's probably a change in raw ingredients, new suppliers, all sorts of variables. But I worry about anybody making a fragrance that relies so heavily on having to so finely calibrate unreliable natural materials that each batch cannot be relied upon to be the same fragrance. There's a great deal to be said for consistency. I really am so disappointed. I'll never buy Mousse Illuminee again and will avoid the Rogue house knowing now that I cannot buy a bottle and expect to know what it will smell like month on month. A shame because Manuel Cross is a genius of sorts. If he can sort these quality control issues out and find a way to avoid using such unreliable, volatile natural ingredients or just get better suppliers then I'll give the house a chance, but right now I'm a little gun shy. A tiny little hairline crack has formed in my heart. I wanted to love Rogue Perfumery and this fragrance for the rest of my life. Alas alas...😢

[@bmoneybby]

Was the "good" version the clear cap?

[@ciganyweaverandherperiwink6293]

@@bmoneybby I can't remember, but it was the packaging reviewed by Sebastian 'The Perfume Guy' many years ago. The other niche house that has had huge reformulations and not thought to communicate it clearly on their website is Fort & Manle. Their Bojnokoff, Amber Absolutely and Harem Rose are TOTALLY different. There are interviews etc online where Rasei Fort addresses this and explains why the new batch is different (again, with brand new gorgeous packaging-- a pattern I'm seeing here). Consistency is a real worry for me with certain indie/niche brands. Doesn't matter, but goodness me you've GOT to communicate changes very clearly on the website to avoid issues and return requests. Also, would it not be a great idea to send a small note and a sample vial with all orders so people can try the new version they've bought before opening the box?! Mousse Illuminee has a fantastically strong, deeply bitter oakmoss that according to one reviewer will 'knock your teeth out' it's so strong. I guess if someone is after an extremely strong, perfectly dry, very bitter green oakmoss, then MI is the best out there. Tsk tsk tsk.

[@ciganyweaverandherperiwink6293]

Chypre Siam really isn't for everyone, many chypre lovers would find it challenging due to the push and pull between the strong barbershop soap vibe and the strong animalic vibe:introducing strong, noticeable animalics into fragrances really changes things for people, introduces a tension and a discomfort where they have to work at enjoying wearing a fragrance that sends such conflicting information to the brain. I mean, am I squeaky clean, or have I been rolling around the zoo enclosure of a small incontinent furry mammal, which is it? That caprine aroma in certain fragrances works soooo well and in others it's nauseating. Only way to find out is to sample things and see how they work on the skin. Chypre Siam is too strong (WAS too strong: I haven't worn it in years) with the wet animal smell for me to fully enjoy it. Same goes for Haxxan by Parfums Prissana and most of the Zoologist offerings. I'd be embarrassed to wear them in public.

[@janicesharp7693]

Is Aromatics Elixir considered a chypres?

[@TheHoodedLid]

Yes!

[@kristieprice8842]

I am not familiar with Chypres. However, I appreciate fragrances and enjoyed your video.

[@TheHoodedLid]

I'm so glad to hear it!

[@jennyjenny293]

Well....wasnt govt regulators responsible for trying to "kill" oak moss? IFRA stepped in to come up with heavier restrictions rather than a full on ban. This is my understanding.

[@justStardust940]

Tom Prick! Lmaoo accurate

[@FragrantVenerations]

I would love there to be more real oakmoss in the modern formulations... But the civets and musks... May they never return as "real" in perfumery... Im all for chemistry and lab science when it comes to that 😅