Clamp Knurling Tool, Mounting Bracket and Back Plate, Part Two

[@rickl.orchids]

...you have a natural born talent for explaining.....simple, to the point, and easily remembered. Thanks...

[@billbuckalew9497]

Tom: Thanks for this excellent series. I finished the tool and got my knurls in the mail yesterday. Your excellent tips and drawings made the job successful as could be. Just finished my first knurl and it turned out to be absolutely perfect. Thanks again, and look forward to more videos! Regards, Bill

[@TomsTechniques]

+Bill Buckalew Hi Bill, It's pretty bad that you guys are finishing the project before I've finished the videos. :) It's great to hear that your knurling tool is performing as advertised. That style of tool is hard to beat. Summer is starting to wind down around here, so I've been thinking about starting up the videos again. There are definitely a lot of interesting topics on the list. Tom

[@wwheros]

As usual, excellent video. Straight to the point no nonsense with great tips. Nice to see you back in the shop! Looking forward to the next video.

[@dennyskerb4992]

Great video Tom, I've never been disappointed.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Dennis.

[@jossfitzsimons]

Thank you Tom. I particularly appreciate the tips for corner rounding. I.e. concentrating on the 'big part' and then using the radius gauge.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Joss.

[@pookieass]

Hey Tom Hope all is well with you. Sure have missed your great videos. You are the best instructor I have found on you tube. Hurry back if you can. Doug

[@TomsTechniques]

+D. Hughes Thanks Doug. I had one ready to go last weekend, but life got in the way. Hopefully this weekend will yield better results. Tom

[@gilelicyd]

Many thanks again Tom,looking forward to the next.

[@TomsTechniques]

I should be able to do the case hardening and final assembly this weekend. Thanks for watching. Tom

[@BigMjolnir]

Tom, thanks for another interesting video. Good advice on the corner rounding. I've done lots of that with wood, but router tables aren't as easy to back off 0.002"! You really cracked me up with your comment at the belt sander: "no time to cut corners"...but not so much that I missed the technique for getting perfect corners. The radius gauge, the stay away from the tangent sides, and the unstated but just as important: practice it for a few years. -- Mike

[@TomsTechniques]

BigMjolnir There is nothing like a good pun to start the day, although I'm not so sure that falls in the category. Practice definitely helps. I probably made it look pretty easy in the video, but it takes a while to get the technique down. Like you say, I've been doing it for a few years and probably made a lot of bad looking radii before I started making good ones. Regarding the wood router; a piece of paper is about .002" thick. Tom

[@BigMjolnir]

Maybe not a pun, but it was still a fun play on words...even better if it wasn't intentional. Paper is a good gauge for small thicknesses...I've used dollar bills for setting table saw fence offset and bandsaw guide spacing for years. The problem with the router is getting it to change height by that small amount. Some routers can do it without too much trouble, others not so much...depends how you set the cutter depth on each design. -- Mike

[@daveprototype6079]

It is coming along nicely. I agree no time to be cutting corners... hahaha Cheers, Dave

[@morrisgallo2361]

Thanks for the helpful insights and no Bovine Scat look at how to do things efficiently.

[@SlowEarl1]

Tom, Some great tips thanks.

[@OldIronShops]

Tom I think you have got the audio levels spot on . What kind of Mic are you using now

[@TomsTechniques]

That's good to hear Chris. It's a Shure lapel mic, not sure of the model. Recording the vocal on a separate track allows me to move the levels up or down during editing to accommodate machine noise. It seems to be working out much better than just using the audio from the camcorder. Tom

[@daveticehurst4191]

Hi Tom, Your Swivel Jaw Vice looks to be a real pain, having to find the right size packing each time. Do you ever use the Swivel Jaw for tapered parts ? If not go for a Standard Fixed Jaw Vice as used as an industry standard. You were lucky with these parts being a standard thickness i.e 1/4 inch and 1 inch. Anything else would mean finding shims etc, real pain. Much easier to hear you now with the new audio set up, if you could get rid of your 3 phase converter noise it would be perfect. Great videos, keep up the excellent demonstrations. Get rid of all your tooling placed on your machine table, it will damage the surface, rattle about when machining and may even fall off during heavy cuts.

[@paulboon2285]

Hi Tom, thanks again for your videos! I've learn so much as I'm practicing! The "hands-on" projects really do help learning the intricacies of machining like sound, feel, visual characteristics of the cutting etc. Nothing teaches better than experience (both good and bad). Would you have another project that would incorporate the tools we've already made through your videos? (Maybe a another tool with knurled handle or knob etc) This is the first knurl tool of this design I've seen and it makes much more sense (As you've already explained in part 1). Would you have any plans or design ideas for a "ball" (radius) turning tool for the lathe QCTP? I've seen a few ideas but don't know which is the better design. Thanks again for your attention to details, explanations, and safety tips with each procedure. Your videos are awesome and adds invaluable knowledge to any machinist! Can't wait for the next one!

[@jeffm470]

Hi Tom, I'm a year behind you on making this project...but in the last video you talked about case-hardening the steel parts...did you ever make that video? If so where is it? Thanks for such excellent videos...I'll be starting to make your Clamp Knurler in about a month.

[@TomsTechniques]

I did. Here's the entire series on my website. It's a lot easier to navigate than KZbin. tomstechniques.com/clamp-knurling-tool/ Tom

[@Opinionator52]

Moving right along,,, Thank you for sharing Tom! Take care.... :o] O,,,

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks O.

[@NavyChiefPa]

Any progress on new videos? I have learned a lot from your videos and am looking forward to more.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Jeff Alfeld It's supposed to snow this weekend. Maybe that will inspire me to start spending more time in the shop. :)

[@Thunderbelch]

"Now's not the time to cut corners", he says at 7m45s when he is literally cutting the corners! :P

[@HangarQueen]

Came here to say that, as I watch this for the first time 7 years later.

[@whitecaps775]

Hi Tom, You were right about A2 being hard to machine. But having made the parts from this material are they hard enough without further treatment? Also I notice that you attempt to reply to all, Thanks for doing this.

[@TomsTechniques]

The hardness of tool steels in their annealed state is not much different than mild steels. The difference comes with heat treat. A2 for instance can be hardened to Rc63 from around Rc12 in its annealed state. It just depends on what you plan to do with it that drives how hard it needs to be. For something like this mounting bracket, Rc30 would be appropriate. That would be hard enough that set screws wouldn't mar it, but tough enough that it wouldn't crack. The reason I chose to case harden mine was because it would result in a tough part with a glass hard surface. BTW, if you have machining related questions, feel free to contact me on my website, tomstechniques.com. Tom

[@brandontscheschlog]

Where is the rest of this video series? Love your vids Tom!

[@TomsTechniques]

Case Hardening the Steel Parts was the last video I made on this project before life got in the way. The only thing left to do is the assembly. I see that final video was never added to the playlist, so I did that. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eXzLoYmLf8yWgMU Tom

[@mysteriousstranger239]

Just watched your video on threading would you use the same procedure with an insert tool

[@TomsTechniques]

Rick Seniuk The set-up is the same regardless of the tool used, but I do not recommend carbide for those on the steep part of the learning curve. High speed steel is less expensive, much more forgiving and all around better suited for light, low powered machinery like that found in hobby machine shops. Once you gain experience, carbide may be appropriate for some applications, but until then you are better off with HSS. Tom

[@lbcustomknives]

Hey tom hope your ok brother..

[@TomsTechniques]

+lbcustomknives Doing fine and starting to think about making some videos again after a busy summer. Tom

[@Paulmaddison2012]

Tom what is the best type of plastic rod to use on the lathe? i want to turn 50mm diameter rod. many thanks

[@TomsTechniques]

paul maddison That depends on what you want to use it for. Different plastics have different applications. Tom

[@Paulmaddison2012]

Tom the best to turn without almost melting, i want to turn/face/drill 50mm black plastic type bar.

[@TomsTechniques]

paul maddison Delrin (acetal) is one of the better turning plastics and it is readily available in black. As with any plastic, you need sharp tools with high rake and clearance angles. Tom

[@Paulmaddison2012]

many thanks Tom, ps great bunch of vids really helpfull.

[@yessodg]

Now is not the time to cut corners.. Starts cutting corners ;)

[@stxrynn]

Hope you are doing okay. Been missing your instruction.

[@Vickwick58]

You shouldn't cut corners when you're cutting corners. Got it.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Victor Stanwick Wow, you guys are a scream. :)

[@lkrueger9494]

:-)