Tom, a question about your .025 cut on your steel plate jig. What did you use to make the cu?. The bandsaw blades that I want to repair are .035. and 1" in width.

Wow that is real talent and skill. Thanks for sharing!

Hello, sir. Is it true that filtered kerosene is the most effective chemical for cleaning gauge blocks?

Wouldn’t a table lock prevent the work from being pulled into the cutter

Thank you for your reply I would never think that tin snips would be able to cut that hardened steel.

คัตเตอร์มิลลิ่ง

Milling cutter

Thank you for a very effective video. What is the best way to cut the blade from a bulk roll?

Hello Tom I hope all is well!! I’m a big fan of you and ur KZbin videos and was wondering if your are ok since you haven’t posted anything in awhile??

You don't get Chinese import spiral flute taps in the US? And, there's nothing wrong with carbon steel except it goes blunt quickly. New out of the box, higher cost HSS gives no advantage

I second the notion of using a honing stone or something similar to form the nose radius.

Very nice

I doubt the original was constructed so beautifully. God bless the folks that know how.

Gotta love the talented machinists that strive to build something worthwhile.

Good video. You have a few nicks in your cutter. Look forward to watching more of your work.

Cool! BTW "You can't make 'em over again in the past! ;)

thats literally cutting corners!🤣

*well done sir*

Looks great but not sure how to cut a nice taper on my lathe without using the crosslide and feeding by hand which leaves a crappy finish or throwing my tail stock out which is tediously long in getting it back in line. Any suggestions anybody ? I also always indicate on the round part that I'm machining. As I'm laying out bolt circles, it always works for me. I don't see how this method allows one to avoid indicating the part.

*_Tom has since passed away. He went to the great machine shop in the sky. RIP Tom._*

Welcome back, Tom! I hope to watch more of your videos soon!

Hope you are well been 7 years since I reached out. I have always wanted to ask what allows your table and vise to freely move around? I have motor drive on my X axis and Y is handle but either have the floating motion yours show. Always found this interesting. I am having fun in retirement.

Жаль, что ролик без перевода на русский! Было бы понятнее! Спасибо.

Very good video, do u have a drawing on how to build it? Good job.

Comparing Climb Milling over Conventional is irrelevant when you don't even know how to hold the piece you are cutting.

Excellent idea 👌 Going to make one today Thank you sir 👍

great video, thank you

👍🏻

Thank you Tom! Love to see the lathe that giant bit came from😁 Just picked up an old Unimat to build a roller skate wheel regroover, for my wife and her skate friends😎

Beautifully explained, thank you for taking the time to make the video - much appreciated.

This only works if the part is clean from the start and not bumpy like a brake disc might be, still gets close tho, I use this method often

Fly cutter speed, I always run it very fast... And remove small amount amounts of metal at a time...

Great tutorial. Very good, clear explanation/examples.

I never knew how to calculate speeds & feeds when I ran manual machine tools. I’d look at the spinning cutter or workpiece and figure that’s a good RPM to start with. I’d adjust my speeds & feeds from there based on the surface finish, rigidity of the machine and workpiece setup and horsepower of the machine. I did have to calculate speeds & feeds when I learned how to program & run CNC machines. The actual speeds & feeds to cut are put into the machine program.

Who knew it was that simple to sharpen a parting tool? WAY easier than shaping a square piece of tool steel. Thanks for sharing. And yes, I'm still learning. 🙂

Been 2 years. Still making chips?

Third year Apprentice Millwright comin here 10 years after your post!! Much appreciated but I’d love to know the RPM you ran at

I totally disagree with his assessment of the Light House tool post. The parting blade is held in a rigid cast iron Armstrong holder. It's also on center with the bolt that holds the entire assembly. The tool is also Not hanging off the side like ALL QCTP's do. Even the 4 way turret type post is more rigid and has much less overhang than the QCTP. Yes, I know I'm old fashioned. I still like to Face Plate turn. Wakodahatchee Chris

thank you so much for the excellent explanation and demo

Awesome video

Beautiful shop!

Perfect! I was going to remove my crank and fit a 5v stepper motor with remote control but this is much simpler.

Very good demonstration and instruction! Thanks!

Great tutorial! Thanks

One very well done video. And the process was explained very well also. A true professional

Couple of weeks ago I bought a 6 tpi blade for cutting aluminium and it snapped on the first cut. I complained to the seller and got ignored, but today I watched your video, I made a jig and silver soldered the broken blade back together and it is better than when I first got it, Thank you Tom!!!

Hi, I've used a simpler "no calculator" method for a long time... (40 years) it depends upon knowing a few metric conversions, but you and I came up with a very similar answer to the spindle rate for your 5/8" cutter... (16mm is 0.63" no appreciable difference...) For a 100 FPM cutting speed, divide 100 by the cutter or workpiece diameter (so it applies to mills, drills, turning) then multiply that answer by 100. So, worked example- 100/16 = 6.25. Multiply 6.25 x 100, you get 625... Not so different from your 645? And the calculator was redundant... For a cutting speed less than or greater than 100 FPM, just pro rate... 500fpm? 625 x 5 = 3,125 RPM 50 RPM? 310 rpm 1/16" drill = 1.6mm 100 /1.6 = 96, 96 x 100 = 9,600 rpm. As you say, a starting point... But 40 years of using my simple formula tells me it works... And... 100 FPM is 30 metres/min, so you can do a fairly rapid mental approximation from metric to imperial (calculator free) When I started work, the old guys recommended these spindle speeds for drilling... 1,000, 500, 250 rpm for 1/4", 1/2", and 1" drills, respectively, pro rated for bigger and smaller drills, in mild Steel, run wet. I think some of them started out with high carbon steel drills. HSS and Super HSS, we could use 1,600, 800 and 400 RPM, wet. 60% of that speed dry... And none of it needs a calculator... (or pi)

Super valuable info even 10 years later. TY

Very informative. I almost broke everyone around me with climb milling lol

Is the pdf still available?