CLARINET HACKS WITH JOCHEN: Episode 1 // How to clean and oil your Instrument

[@leonply]

In this video, as well as the clarinet bulletin boards, the comments are always "NO linseed oil" coming from the Americans. To answer this: In Europe, there is food-grade linseed oil, which is available in markets everywhere, and it is used in cooking and on salads for a stronger flavour, as walnut and almond oil can be used. This linseed oil is not toxic, it does not adversely affect the wood, and it is 100% natural and non-damaging. It is not the linseed oil which is used by the paint industry, which has completely different properties. And to head off any verbal attacks, I'm not attacking Americans, as I'm half-American; I'm simply giving facts. Cheers!

[@sakudoo]

Thank you for the episode. - I use some cling film or aluminium foil to wrap the keys and to prevent any oil from going to the pads. I guess, with the lower, big holes, you should protect the pad in some way otherwise the fibres of the brush oil the pads too...

[@mattmeyr3066]

As a hobby woodworker, I would like to add some facts about linseed oil: indeed, linseed oil does dry. It just takes about ca. 4 weeks to do so... actually it is a chemical reaction between the oil and the oxygen in the air, which makes it hard. Having that said, this means if you have a liquid film on a wood surface, it will dry from the top - and the bulk of the film will never dry out completely. Therefore, you have to apply only so much oil that it can be soaked up by the wood (which is only few oil, as Jochen points out in the video). The surface should look like a shiny but solid wood surface. If it looks like there is a liquid layer on it, it is too much! In that case, you should wipe off the residuals . About quality grades of linseed oil: the edible one, which you can buy in the supermarket, usually contains some other natural components that make the oil smell rancid after some time. For technical purposes (woodworking), this oil usually is purified and pre-boiled (boiling is done to enable a somewhat faster drying of the oil). However, this oil, used for woodworking, is often given some additives (called "siccatives") that make it dry even quicker. These are usually substances containing cobalt, manganese, or lead. I would not want to use this on my clarinet either - just the pure version without additives. The German word for the version with siccatives is "Leinölfirnis" - the English translation is just "boiled linseed oil", I suppose this is what leads to some confusion on the topic...

[@TFindteisen]

Prima! Endlich mal eine professionelle und verständliche Anleitung. Zur Häufigkeit des Ölens und Aufbewahrung des Flötenwischers habe ich zwar eine etwas andere Auffassung, aber das ist sicher legitim.

[@hudsoncampos2201]

great video

[@matthieuvankints3343]

Very interesting channel thank you, I assume this explenation is specificall for wooden instruments. Personally I wouldalso be interested in theproper maintenance forhard rubber instruments:D

[@softreedsonly]

Grettings! Is it possible to make a video about patching a outside crack temporarily and stopping the crack of spreading, commonly the upper part of clarinet, and all kinds of clarinet wood patching techniques ofcourse? Ich danke Ihnen im Voraus

[@danielhuertasconductor]

Very good video! When are you uploading a new one?

[@1cleandude]

Very good video thanks! After practicing is it ok to swab it put in case and leave the case open to help dry it out??🙏🏻🙏🏻 Thanks again for your time and expertise!🙏🏻

[@seggelkeklarinettenbamberg6327]

sorry for the late answer! if it‘s cold outside it‘s better to close the case until the instrument is cooled down.

[@robertopucci4450]

Molto interessante , il suo clarinetto è veramente bello .

[@harrw3168]

The sample clarinet you have there seems to be made out of boxwood which is a more absorbent wood. Most modern professional clarinets are made from Grenadilla wood which has much more of a tight grain. I would never, ever use linseed oil in any woodwind instrument. Linseed does not dry completely and would take much too long a wait for it to dry. There are plenty of other bore oil products in the marketplace. However, I use pure almond oil instead. I find this oil dries much quicker and leaves the clarinet smelling rather nicely. Some clarinetist don't ever oil the bore, however, if you decide to do it, use an old swab instead of the brush, less chance of scratching the bore, and only twice a year.

[@Feragamotv]

Hello , thanks for video : Let me know please , how to can clear in clarinet black color and coloring same witch one have video on clarinet : and what is firm Bore Oil is good ? Thanks , sorry for bad english

[@whoitisnot]

You seem to be drying out the sockets with your swab. I always use a different cloth for this to avoid getting cork grease on the swab and thus in the tone holes.

[@partticle2222]

👓Das ist alles sehr gute Pflege. Danke Meistertechniker⚙🪙

[@jerrykorten664]

Linseed oil? We were always taught not to use linseed oil. Is this boiled linseed oil? Or raw? Linseed would build up and change the bore dimensions over time, no?

[@gilagababa]

If you use edible-quality oil and do it only once-twice a year, not using too much of it there shouldn't be any problem :)

[@jerrykorten664]

@@gilagababa Thank you Gilaga I have always used raw edible almond oil. Sounds like Linseed may be similar? Or should I switch?

[@gilagababa]

@@jerrykorten664 Almond oil is also great! :D

[@jerrykorten664]

@@gilagababa Thanks!

[@emjay2045]

Organic Almond Oil 💯

[@lillyvanloy]

Do you oil every part of the clarinet or just the upper and lower body and bell? What about the barrel?

[@seggelkeklarinettenbamberg6327]

you can oil the barrels, too! sure!

[@lillyvanloy]

@@seggelkeklarinettenbamberg6327 thank you so much!