Classic Mini Cooper clutch release solution

This video provides one possible solution to solving issues with a clutch that doesn't release on a classic Mini Cooper

[@joemirizio2655]

Excellent description of a potential problem. I had the same issue appear, only when engine warmed up. Primary gear was too tight. Thanks for sharing.

[@petersaupe7455]

I already knew this,but you explained the problem much better that i would be able too.

[@karltoros8513]

Big thanks for this video. This solved the problem I had for a long time. Have the same lightened flywheel. Is machined down 0.35mm now and have no problem anymore with gear switch !

[@luissantizo]

Thank you for the time you take to make your videos! It is very appreciated!

[@davidjones1290]

Brilliant, many thanks for this video I think you have just explained the problem we have.

[@pinknblues1]

really well explained from someone who knows what theyrw tqlkijng about thank you

[@cristianluli5810]

Thank master. You safe my day.Saludos from patagonia Chile

[@gregwold7347]

My daughter hiked and camped Patagonia a year ago from Minnesota, MN. She thought it was beautiful!

[@mayjer1275]

Fabulous....thank you for this explanation. Question.: If you machine down the inner part of the flywheel as you mention....does this not mean that the flywheel can slide even further onto the crank? This is the only part I'm not understanding. Thank you

[@gregwold8889]

The taper alone on the flywheel determines how far the flywheel pulls up on the crank. The inside part I suggest cutting would only prevent the flywheel from pulling up the taper far enough if it wasn’t cut. The taper is long so cutting off the inside has no impact on the job the taper does. Make sense??

[@AGClassicCarTuning]

I've just finished and engine build, clutch slave and throw is all set etc, however when I press the clutch pedal to the floor the engine slows down significantly and I can't engage a gear. Could what is described in your video be a typical cause of this problem? It's a new clutch, flywheel, primary gear etc etc. Any advice would be much appreciated before I dig deeper and double check thrust washers etc etc.

[@TheGentlemensMotorRacingTeam]

Great video, and i have learnt something - thank you :)

[@jimf5160]

one reason, at least on race cars, it is important to set the primary clearance around .010 rather than less clearance as on a street car. We also have clearanced the flywheel as you suggest as a matter of course...to avoid possible issues.

[@ON4RW]

thank you so much for the info

[@dannyc9877]

Great video thanks Greg. I just finished restoring my car and am having trouble getting the car into first gear when Its running. I can find second without any trouble but first grinds. Could this be my problem?

[@gregwold8889]

Danny C Yes. This could very well be the problem. It probably is still grinding some getting into second gear too but not as loud. First gear is spinning faster which is why it will grind more.

[@dannyc9877]

@@gregwold8889 thank you for your response. This is our first time doing this and we were quite lost. We will give this a try. I will keep you posted.

[@cristianluli5810]

thank again Greg!!!

[@sprokthered]

Very interesting. I have a problem with the tapered end of my crank shaft. Its damaged. Looks like something metallic has been dragged around the tapered end its scratched - some quite deep. Dont really fancy an engine rebuild and crank replacement. Do you know if theres any repairs you know of for this. Im concerned if i rub it down with cutting paste it wont get the deep marks out and if i go too deep the flywheel wont tighten on properly ?

[@gregwold8889]

sprokthered The scratch most likely is from the flywheel wobbling on the crankshaft. The fit was loose and the rocking action caused the scratch. The scratch may be the start of a crack too. I am a “do it right” person. Take it apart and magnaflux the crank and make sure that you don’t have a cracked crank. If the crank is fine then you can use valve grinding compound and work the flywheel and crank taper surfaces together. Make sure to cut the inside of the flywheel as this video suggests because the crank will travel further up the taper.

[@sprokthered]

Greg Wold thanks for taking the time to get back to me.

[@bill3641]

So, if you remove the pressure plate and find the that clutch disc drags, then you have found the likely problem ?

[@gregwold8889]

Bill yes. Most likely the case

[@mafh60]

Hi, I have some troubles with my mini clutch. And I can't find why, can you show us while the preverto works? My problem it's that I can't put any gear when the car is running, i bought the car in parts and I'm assembling the car, and I'm putting a new clutch. Regards.

[@gregwold8889]

+Your clutch problem is exactly as I explain in the KZbin video... Pull the flywheel and machine off the inside to give clearance between the flywheel and the primary gear... Trust me here.... This should do the trick...

[@sgalano]

Hello, . Thank you for your video. What do you think is the reason why my mini vibrates everytime i shift gears, especially during take off. And at idle,everytime i (i have the long arm,which i think is a pre verto clutch. 1973, 1275cc). After changing the clutch kit (disc, bearing, seal, diaphragm) and also has been corrected and adjusted the Pressure plate and Ring gear. The car remains the same, trembling with single clutch at low revs. Please help. Thank you in advance. Nice greetings from Spain.

[@gregwold8889]

I wish I had a solution for you. It seems that if you replaced those parts, then you should have fixed the problem. First guess is that the clutch disc had oil on it, but you changed that. It could be two things. If the flywheel and pressure plate aren't matched, it is possible that the strap bundles holding the flywheel and back plat together are the problem. You should have at least three straps in each of the three strap bundles... So at least 9 total straps or 12 straps (4 per bundle) if you have them. If the straps don't lie flat when the clutch is in its normal position (the clutch is engaged, foot off the pedal), that could cause some vibration too. You need to set up the flywheel on the bench before putting it in the car to make sure that the straps are lying flat and just touching the ears on the back plate. If not you will have to ship the straps up or down with washers so they are perfectly flat and just touching the ears on the back plate.. Wish I was there to help out...

[@sgalano]

Thank you very much. Regards. Please, 9 straps ??? See 1strap in es.tinypic.com/m/j6jv5f/1 Thank you very much

[@infinitus3d204]

Vergataria la explicación. Gracias

[@cristianluli5810]

Hi Greg. Pls, I need the clerances in millimeter. Tk

[@gregwold8889]

About 0.25mm will be enough.. Hard to measure as you can't see in tehre to measure, but start by taking off 0.25mm from the inside of the flywheel...

[@chrisevans9917]

Cristian

[@cohenwhite5568]

Can this issue be fixed without removing the engine?

[@gregwold8889]

Possible, yes. Very difficult, yes. Pulling the flywheel while the engine is in the car is very difficult but possible. If the flywheel is hard to pull off which is often the case, there probably isn’t enough room to get a good puller in the space available to pull the flywheel.

[@cohenwhite5568]

thanks! I have just removed the fly wheel today and am looking to take to to a clutch specialist tomorrow. Is grinding these out something common that people do? What is the measurement I need it grinded too? Cheers!

[@gregwold8889]

Cohen White Yes this is a common thing to do, especially on engines that may have been taken apart a few times. Cut back the inside of the flywheel 0.020-0.025”. There is plenty of flywheel there so this amount won’t make a difference.