Classic Mini DIY - Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

[@aussiebloke609]

I haven't seen tapered bearings for the rear before - but it's a great idea, especially if you're into some...ahem..."spirited" driving. :-) But I have to say, that is _not_ how to repack a bearing. You need to push the grease in through the sides of the bearing so that it pretty much fills the void areas between the rollers, not just try to get it inside by rubbing it onto the rollers - you'll never pack enough inside that way. That's why they make special bearing packing tools, although it can be done by hand also - here's a vid showing the correct technique: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJmvYqh3pcSKedk

[@andrewjames2932]

What's refreshing is actually having the description of how it should go and then seeing how you going to struggle. It's 80/20 that you are going to struggle with your classic mini no matter what. Most "mini guys" pretend like when they do mini's it's easier than Lego... Thanks for an informative, professional and honest vid bud, it's fantastic work.

[@gsxrpat6147]

About the tackle this job for both the front and rear of my Mini, I appreciate the video alot🫡

[@djlee841]

Thanks for the instructional. Much appreciated. To ease the install I had my race in the freezer for 12 hours prior and just before install I heated the hub gently. The race just fell into place.

[@MultiDopper]

Love your vids men, keep going, you are doing a great job!

[@classicminidiy]

Thank you! Glad you're enjoying them. :-)

[@TheSolitice]

Thanks for this video, I found it entertaining and very informative. I would love to see you tackle the front bearings too as its on my own task list to get done for the spring.

[@chriswalters8461]

Did you ever find a video for the front

[@classicminidiy]

I recently did a video about how to convert to disc brakes. If you search for that it covers tightening the wheel bearings on the front.

[@chriswalters8461]

Im having trouble getting the drum brake set up off in the first place

[@classicminidiy]

Are you in the middle of replacing yours with discs?

[@chriswalters8461]

No im just replacing ball joints and bearings

[@aforsloff]

I am in the process of restoring my classic mini and I’m working on the rear hub. My assembly came apart pretty easily. I pried it out as I was not reusing brakes. Is it a bad sign if the race is not super hard to remove or reseat?

[@JellyMeister]

Thanks man you got me through my MOT ;)

[@classicminidiy]

Wooo congrats!

[@SMOA5]

wish you did a video on putting the brake shoes back, basically how to do a brake job on a drum brake system. Thanks! I'm loving the videos, keep them coming!!

[@classicminidiy]

I will do a video on replacing those shoes this weekend. :-)

[@Kolmord]

I just did this to my rear wheel bearings aswell, but when i tighten it to more than fingertight, the hub becomes really quite hard to move, a lot harder than it should be. Do you have any clue what could possibly be wrong? I have checked that everything is correctly in place and the bearings are packed with grease. They are also a tapered set like you used in the video.

[@Tapedriverepair]

Either your bearing seats are not seated flat in the flange, or the bearing is over tight. The figure he quotes in this video of 60Ftlb is NOT for tapper roller bearings. Taper rollers are done up to feel. then adjusted just tighter or just loser to get the pin through the castle nut. That's why when he rotates his flange near the end, the radius arm actually lifts up as he rotates it up at the rear. WAY WAY to tight

[@Tapedriverepair]

Hi figure for taper bearings is WAY WAY WAY off. That is for the standard ball bearings when the centre of the two races mate in the middle of the flange

[@captrickeyw626]

All minis had taper roller rear wheel bearings. original models had two flat sided taper roller bearings and a separate tube spacer between them, when you tighten the hub nut the spacer gives the right clearance inner to outer bearing. the correct torque figure is 60 ft lbs. Some later replacement bearings have an extended inner race so that the two inner races butt against each other to give the correct clearance. If you were to assemble with flat sided bearings and no spacer , 60 ft lbs would destroy the bearings, so in this case tighten to about 10-15 ft/lbs and then back off one space on the castellated nut and fit split pin

[@chriswalters8461]

Hey mate, im about to replace front ball joints and wheel bearings a a 74 australian leyland mini with drum brakes, do you have a video that coukd help me with it?

[@classicminidiy]

My front disc conversion video covers front wheel bearings. 👍🏼

[@donnlee]

You said the hub was spinning "too tight" with the old bearing. When I watch you spin the hub with the new bearing, it looks like it is spinning with the same undesirable tightness. Did it feel as tight after the bearing replacement? if yes, what might cause the tightness? maybe the hub is not perfectly circular due to age? maybe the races were slightly deformed when they were hammered in? Thank you

[@franciscomelendez3894]

You keep each bearing with its corresponding race together?

[@classicminidiy]

Absolutely.

[@jakeminassian2692]

Hello, the castle nut on my Mini is not coming off it’s not rusted and it’s spinning slowly but it almost feels like it’s tightening. I know I’m not tightening it. Any suggestion?

[@joolstacho8114]

If it's the left one it's a Left Hand thread !

[@benjaminperez771]

The drivers side nut comes off Clockwise!!

[@ysbenjamin]

Just did my fronts and while confident in the races being set, and bearings packed, and seals flush with the edge of the hub...theres space between the bearing and the seal, which allows the bearing to come out of the race. Is that expected? Or do i push the seal so its flush with the bearings? Any intel would be appreicated

[@classicminidiy]

I always push the seal so its flush with the bearing. I don't like any gap in between the bearing and the outerseal. Just more space for it to gather gunk and crap if the seal every failed.

[@MrKurns]

Hi. Just wondering what size puller you were using? My local auto store has 75mm, 100mm and 150mm. If you quote in US imperial sizing that would be fine. Thanks from New Zealand!

[@bastiaanprijt9336]

I need to change my wheel studs. Can i take the hub of without replacing my wheel bearings?

[@classicminidiy]

Nope. When you take it off the whee bearing comes apart. You technically might not have to replace it but personally if it’s apart I would put new ones on there so I wouldn’t have to I. The futur

[@sailorbrand4957]

is there a video about the front bearing anywhere?

[@classicminidiy]

I don't currently have a video for the front ones out yet. Thankfully I have not yet needed to replace mine. When I do I will be creating a video. :-)

[@joolstacho8114]

That is the RH rear yes? OK, But the LH rear has a LEFT HAND thread. Ask me how I know! --- NOTE! NOTE! Should have mentioned this.

[@scottderuyter3812]

The backing plate hole is the same size as the spindle. So pulling your back plate off won't help. Some times a little heat will expand that stuck race and free it from the spindle.

[@MiniMattTV]

Scott Deruyter incorrect

[@ritukas2]

what year mini do you have? 1998?

[@classicminidiy]

1960

[@metalwright]

I put the new Timken bearings on, and the hub still doesn't spin super easily.. I wonder if they "run in?"

[@classicminidiy]

On the front or the rear?

[@metalwright]

Rear

[@Tapedriverepair]

No they don't run in. Either your bearing seats are not seated flat in the flange, or the bearing is over tight. The figure he quotes in this video of 60Ftlb is NOT for tapper roller bearings. Taper rollers are done up to feel. then adjusted just tighter or just loser to get the pin through the castle nut. That's why when he rotates his flange near the end, the radius arm actually lifts up as he rotates it up at the rear. WAY WAY to tight

[@GeoffreyHulbert]

Great video, but it’s not a 1 inch socket it’s 15/16

[@Slack3rDav3]

one thing I noticed is your greasy hands got all over the brake shoes, which would be undesirable. Change gloves when messing with brakes, unless you're replacing.

[@Tapedriverepair]

I did delete my comment while checking my original statement. And sorry you are wrong, and your bearings will not last long before the rollers grind into the seats. Having replaced them on many many classic cars and aided replacement on steam locomotives. How about you match the many many video's on here regarding setting taper rollers. This would be the most reliable from SKF one of the most well respected and used manufactures : kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKbKhmmEfcykjLs

[@classicminidetails8887]

You clearly are a know all that knows fuck all.

[@Dagowly83]

Generally the ideal operating bearing setting is near zero to maximise bearing life. Most bearings are set with a cold setting of end play at assembly. In the Mini's case, using a spacer allows the tolerance to increase if it begins to overheat, but also to maintain an equal pressure on the races. They're usually common in preset bearing assemblies. How about you read the many many engineering papers on this as well as preset bearing assemblies. Google Timken 2S, TDI, TDS, SR or TNA bearings.

[@georgeangus2645]

@@classicminidetails8887 WOW You clearly know nothing about the way different bearings work and how to set them It is clear to see it is to tight. Also the way the first seat was driven in was bad practice. When a bearing seat or outer race is not pressing in square, you stop, not hammer it home potentially damaging the outer and the flange. But hey, you clearly know a little about lot, and that is a very dangerous combination when you are given a voice behind a keyboard

[@georgeangus2645]

He is quite right a taper should never be tight or stiff to rotate, unless you want it to seize or crumble

[@Dagowly83]

Which for the Timken bearing application wont happen if the carrier is serviceable. It will actively give correct preload under cold and operating temperature conditions. Timken has a great piece of literature about all this.