Where are the mounting holes

It's NOT a final motion shaft, it's the FIRST motion shaft !

Hi Cole. Great video. Where are you located ?

You can replace all 6 bolts with these pins (3 on each leaf spring). In the rear, there’s two bolts you replace with these pins. The upper bolt of the two, you do have to trim a little bit but it works just fine (plenty of threads left, bolt still protrudes past end of nut, may be tough to get crush washer on but it works). Just make sure you thread the nut on before cutting the pin with an angle grinder so you can un thread the nut which fixes the messed up threads from cutting.

Life saver

Good details & easy instructions & nice video Thank You

This should have 1 million views bc it helped me A MILLION TIMES. Thank you 🙏

If the front wheel nuts start to work themselves loose, you usually feel it it in the form of very sloppy steering. Usually enough warning. If you just forget to tighten the nuts, then they can come off more quickly.

Thanks

Really nice job. It's really good looking. Would you share the model and the color of the seats you put in the car. Because i really like them and would like to buy them for mine.

perfect video. thanks for this one 👌

Thanks, very cool tool, and good explanation. I have k jetronic sistem instead of carburator. I am going to buy It.

They should just make it so that you can do it without removing the engine on all vehicles. Why do they make this shit so hard. Stupid engineers don't know anything about fixing what they design.

Just what I need, sometimes cant tell if it's half or quarter full

Cole 👍 Best Mini build up I have ever seen !

Yes Cole, Minis are different

Why don't you put a small rubber band around the rollers to keep them in place then just snap it once you've got the gear partly in position

IMPORTANT CORRECTION: Want to add a pinned comment to this, at the 23:27 timestamp youll see I put the washer on BEFORE the pinion gear. This is INCORRECT. Please note that the washer needs to go on after the pinion gear follow then by the nut. Apologies for the mistake in this video!

All the haters dont even own a Element

Great video 😊

haltech is mind blowing. i literally just watched them cook a bbq chicken with a haltech unit!!!!it literally can do just about anything with very few restrictions

I noticed on my 1965 mini moke the engine is very loose. Do you know how difficult is to replase the probably worn two engine rubber mounts at the bottom?

You would think they'd add a hole in the sleeve pin as well. Some have grooves in the bushing to allow grease to flow down the grooves and lubricate all the way around the pin. Since the pin is fixed are you worried a majority of the grease is just making its way to the edges? Ive been trying to find a solution for my tundra but unfortunately my shackles seem much larger than anything they sell as a greaseable alternative. In my head it doesn't make sense, you want a majority of the grease between the pin and the bushing. If the sleeve pin is just a hole with a bolt through it how does it go between the bushing and pin? Or are the hydraulic forces of the grease able to squeeze through from the outer edge?

I have that exact same master cylinder. I can't get it to start "squirting" at all, just can't get it primed.... Have renovated it so it should work. Anyone knows if this thing could get it going?

Works with an austin sprite?

How many miles did you have on the original ball joints? And what type of driving dod you do?

New to the channel, is this the first mini build you have done or very experienced? Love the channel from AUS. Saving for another mini (had a 850 as my first car)

Correction!! Nexus R3 + pd16 = more vs Nexus R5. For example R5 you have 4 25amp outputs, and R3+pd16 and now you have 8 25amp outputs

That blow off valve would drive me nuts, enough so that I would revert back to normally aspirated. Can you totally silence it?

A nice car, well done. The only fault is that you need to concentrate more on your focusing. You couldn't read what the parameters were on the lap top, nore the figures on the car's gauges.

I REALLY like that truck bro!!!

Awesome video, like many others. You are so good at this, man. Why would anyone replace a newer servo breaks that has a much better feel to a yellow tag?

Lol turbo wars heating up... Love the build mate.. good video

When I go uphill mine makes a grinding noise. Could this bearing be the culprit. If so this video is a great load of my mind.

Stuff my A35 van, if I weren't on a budget. HS2's for me. Pretty build, Sir.

Why pixelate the speedo when a mini can only ever reach 50km/h 😅 Hope youre doing well cole! All the best Luis

What is the sounds of air compressor every time you change gear?

Hi Cole, is the interior color the "autumn leaf" from Newton? Loving the mini, it's gorgeous inside and out!

I know it's blasphemy, but I would love to ELECTRIFY a Morris Mini. I've seen a few builds and the low weight + EV torque makes for a fantastic driving experience. I have sourced a 997cc Mk-1 Morris Mini with a dead engine, so I just need to figure out how to get and install the EV components ... it's the start of a BIG project.

looks like the speedo has steps. Not enough resolution?

Any reason for sticking with single line MC over doing a tandem conversion?

How you doing Cole

I`m just about rebuilding my radius arms for my 75 Inno 1300. Watching your video helped me finishing that job nicely - thank you for sharing! What I´m left with is the radial play that I found on both radius arms - that play is about 0,2mm, which I think is too much... From the theorie the tolerances of radius arm + shaft + xxx sum up and you need to "adjust" the installation somehow. My idea is to install the roller bearing NOT fully home, but stand off a couple of x/10mm and press that bearing home with the actual used shaft. This results in Zero axial play. Question to you: how do you set your axial play?? Thank you for a breif response.

This is just what I need. I have a 76 classic mini. I have very basic skills, so your explanations are perfect. Thank you

I like this, however, something I cannot find ANYTHING about, is the rod change selector box maintenance and refurbishment. Wher the rods go in and out, there are bushings? But are they replaceable or not? the bushings in back are not easy...and just in general, I see nothing about it, just removing it as a unit, putting it in as a unit. I would like to see a teardown and restore job on a unit. I have two that are 40+ years old and I have no idea if they're serviceable or not because of that "bushing" if there actually is one?

Great video. As an alternative ..Petrol/Gas is great to clean and soak parts overnight...use a small paintbrush to cleN. Also ...a good idea to set the float level after fitting the needle valve and check the float itself is not punctured.

Awesome video thanks so much for your explanations 😎🙌

Honestly , Cone drives better

Thanks so much for this video. Will try to rebuild mine very soon

I like what you did with the hubs