Classic Mini Suspension Adjustment & Ride Height ( Hi-Lo Kit )

[@jacksonsmith5490]

Looks awesome

[@ClassicCarCave]

Thanks very much it goes awesome as well I have a video of the first time on the road legal 🤔 Cheers Dave

[@mandst5466]

Brilliant thanks, I am about to install HiLo units on my sons Mini so this has been really helpful 👍🏻

[@ClassicCarCave]

thank you so much for your kind comments I hope the video helps in some way. Cheers Dave

[@rbirdi900]

Dave, Excellent video, great timing I need to adjust my mini also, so some great tips..

[@ClassicCarCave]

Raj, Thank you, I hope it helps and gives you a heads up. Cheers Dave

[@madjockprojects7707]

Nice informative Video Dave have been thinking about hi lo`s for the thirty but want to keep it as original as poss keep up the good work

[@ClassicCarCave]

Peter, Thanks, The Hi-Lo system is good if your using with none standard wheels and tyres as the adjustment is huge. If you use the standard system you really need to have new rubber cones all round as using even a slightly old or worn cone will make a big difference to the height of the car. Cheers Dave

[@SimmJimm]

Very useful and clear video. Thanks for that Dave. Greetings from another Brit in Switzerland this time…also with a RHD mini. Same silly MOT rules here…I’ve fitted grooved front disks as the ‘original’ ones overheat coming down the mountains…kept the old ones incase the moan on the next MOT 🙄 Had to overtake a tractor and trailer last night…thankfully because of the curve of the road, height of the tractor and lowness of the mini I could see underneath the trailer to see what was coming the other way 😂 Cheers Simon

[@richardwhatton1249]

A very neat job Dave. Well done. Kind regards, Richard.

[@ClassicCarCave]

Richard, Thank you. This is the first time we have ever built a track or race car so i think we did OK. Cheers Dave

[@johndavey72]

Hi Dave. Just noticed it's RHD .....nil points for observation ! When l worked in a crash repair shop air guns were never allowed for tightening wheel nuts. We had a wheel torque chart that gave all the torque settings for each manufacturers steel/alloy wheels settings . We would have lightening unannounced visits from inspectors who had the power to shut a shop down if it wasn't compliant .....and they did ! It went to ridiculous extremes . We had to start using 1/4 " and 3/8" drive torque wrenches for door fittings including door mirrors !!!! All the torque wrenches had to be kept in locked cupboards and tested for accuracy , if l remember , annually. All job cards had very detailed "methodology" instructions for how to fit replacement panels , welding techniques , spot weld removal and again if you diversed in any way from the "methodology " the inspector could ,at the companies expense , make you remove and replace that panel . I often had to do this on vehicles that had been "incorrectly" repaired at other branches . To be fair there were safety reasons behind this logic but as always it went to extremes , particularly if the inspector had a small penis . I was glad l retired when l could . I think l'd have lost the plot !!!!! Cheers Dave.

[@ClassicCarCave]

John, Fortunately it‘s rare you can over take in a mini ( No top end speed ) so it‘s no problem but it does make the passenger a bit nervous lol. I have no doubt that there was and still is some adhearance to torque settings in some garages but generally the quick lube type places don‘t even do the basic stuff they are charging for. The main dealers are the worse for over charging customers for the simple reason is there overheads are greater than a smaller shop plus there greedy and I‘m sure the staff are told to find extra work to make money. Cheers Dave

[@andywhitelaw6957]

Another great video Dave!

[@ClassicCarCave]

Andy, Thank you very much. Cheers Dave

[@douglasrichardson8525]

Hi Dave, good work but I have never fitted the hi-low conversion to any of the coopers I have had only adjustable shocks, my 1966 Coop S has spax all round set to a mid to stiff setting which I find for me is fine, but I am almost at the end of my engine refurb (thank God) it has been a bit of a long haul but everything is done now, bored, flat top pistons, head done, ported, crank ground and new shells, new high torque cam, gearbox rebuilt, lightened clutch assembly, plus all the other stuff like bearings, seals, gaskets, hoses, etc, when you start where do you stop...... just remembered plus new 3 into 2 into1exhaust manifold and BIG bore exhaust system with single box, (I have the original exhaust here but thought a new one would be nice) so just fitting new oil seals in the diff output flanges and it is almost ready to get the Crane out and put it back in the car........... Regards to you all

[@ClassicCarCave]

Douglas, SPAX are a top brand but for value for money I think the GAZ shocks are a good option. Sounds like our engines are very similar but my race engine was highly modified to the point it produces 113 HP & 112.07 ft/ Lbs of torque at the wheels not bad for a 1310cc engine. I wish you the very best and I‘m sure it will put a big smile on your face I know mine has lol. Cheers Dave

[@nevhath]

Great video...and very useful.

[@ClassicCarCave]

Neil, Thanks, I have to say this is only my take on the ride height and it depends on so many factors and parts you use plus how soft or hard you want the ride to be. Cheers Dave

[@richardstamper5630]

Just for balance, Kwik-Fit in the UK do all their wheel nuts up with a torque wrench and then another member of staff comes over to double check. That aside, the video worked for me as I have a very similar setup. The thing is, my cones have been in the vehicle since 2003 so I am replacing them, The ride up to this point has been excessively hard and the car sitting very low on adjusters (all prior to my ownership). I intend to raise the car up and I was advised that after adjusting the height I would need to adjust the tracking as the rise / fall of the suspension makes the wheels either toe in or toe out which is mainly caused by the steering rack pulling on the knuckles. I am also unsure if I should upgrade the shocks from oil to gas? any views and advise is welcomed.

[@ClassicCarCave]

Richard, Sorry I just saw your comment, There are different colour spots on the cones for road & track and level of ride when the cones are they lose the elasticity and give a very hard ride. I have gas shocks on both my minis and the adjustability can make a huge difference to the handling. Cheers Dave

[@LoneStarMini]

The 4-post Jack will be my choice! Love the ‘put’ Jack.. have never considered the fact that you would still need to Jack up the car to replace a tire when on a 4-post. So the distance from top of wheel to arch will vary depending on arch setup. Will be interesting to feel the difference in rude by changing up the suspension. Good stuff Dave.,

[@ClassicCarCave]

Randy, The four post lifts are the best all round. It‘s a Pit or Beam centre cissor jack a must have extra with and four poster. Cheers Dave

[@stevebyrne272]

Good info Dave looks a lot better and maybe you will lose some more whit a couple more K’s on it fuck it sounds great mate and not to harsh on the eyes also thanks for the mini content mate not that I don’t look at all of your stuff keep up the good work looking forward to the sand blasting

[@ClassicCarCave]

Steve, Thank you I try my best to be accurate but it is only my opinion but I try to steer away from How To videos as there is many ways to do things. I wanted to do a follow up on the race mini suspension and specs but I don‘t know it will get the views ? Cheers Dave

[@BMCWorkshop]

Great video Dave. Much easier to adjust on the ramp

[@ClassicCarCave]

Sean, Well you have used my ramp on a number of occasions so you know.I still think it was the best purchase I ever made in the garage. Cheers Dave

[@BMCWorkshop]

@@ClassicCarCave absolutely Dave and your setup is well thought out

[@ClassicCarCave]

Sean, I tried to get it right from the get go as I have worked in some pretty grim places around the world. I wanted to make it a place where I wanted to be if you know what I mean. In the not summer days it‘s lovely and cool lol. Cheers Dave

[@ethelmini]

Dunno about spring in a mild steel wheel, but if you overtighten a wheel stud so it goes in to yield it won't be holding as well.

[@andyclapham4688]

Great video, many thanks. I have an issue where if I adjust the rears anywhere near fully in, then I get a lot of movement on the metal tie-bar at full suspension droop. I worry that going over speedbumps and the like it will damage the suspension, or even come disconnected. Hence my suspension is running too high to stop the bar moving. I can't be the only one with this problem, any hints? Ta :)

[@ClassicCarCave]

Andy, I don‘t know what kind of shocks you have on the car but they will stop and small unweighting of the radius arms. Are you using a HiLo suspension set up or the original trumpet and ball ? The only suspension that you can have trouble with is changing the rubber cones for springs as they can unseat and twist in the subframe. drop me an email on [e-mail] and I can give you more information of my WhatsApp number. Cheers Dave

[@andyclapham4688]

@@ClassicCarCave Hi Dave I've emailed you. Many thanks 🙂👍

[@robinsmit3218]

Hi, i have the same issue, using HiLo’s witg KYB gas ajust shocks standard height, if i want to go to lowest setup of the hilo’s the wheel can drop too low ( as the shock allows this, disconnecting the rubber cone from its position. Should i buy lowered rear shocks if i want to go any lower? The mini is still way to high on the rear

[@santafranz1060]

A Niederösterreicher 😮

[@ClassicCarCave]

Franz, Sorry I don‘t understand your comment 🤔 Cheers Dave

[@petefroud5308]

Dave good job. Did you convert from a wet system .

[@ClassicCarCave]

Pete, Thanks, No it is a brand new rear subframe and they all come with the hydro elastic option for the pipes. Cheers Dave

[@petefroud5308]

Remember now Dave wad a long while back.

[@simontemplar4093]

The rear brake lines are strange …! Please have a look on an other Mini. Dangerous chines brake calipers on front axle, why not the quality ones from AP lockheed ?

[@ClassicCarCave]

Simon, AKA The Saint, The normal rear brake lines would have cunifer hard pipe to the radius arms were they connect to rubber hoses to the brake cylinders. I have used Goodrich braided lines from the bracket on the subframe. The callipers are BF Goodrich and there not cheap Chinese rubbish ? If you look at my videos on my Hill climb mini they are 4 pot Minisport alloy. I have been working on classic minis for nearly 50 years as I bought my first mini at 17 yo. Cheers Dave

[@paulhotson5820]

9" at front and 91/2" back for 12" wheel's.

[@ClassicCarCave]

Paul, Sorry do you mean 9 inches or 9 centimetres and measuring from what point ? Can you elaborate as i‘m not sure where you are taking the measurement from. Cheers Dave

[@paulhotson5820]

@@ClassicCarCave 9 inches from floor to middle of cill seam by A panel and back 9 1/2 inches by rear arch!

[@ClassicCarCave]

Paul, I will check that out but I will have to convert it from cm to inches and I will let you know. Cheers Dave