Classic Mopar No Crank, No Start - How To Diagnose Issues - Dead Dodge Garage

[@frankensteinrules6511]

August 25/ 2024, this is still the best video on the internet or from any other source available anywhere!!!!!!!!! Thank you!!!!!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

No, thank you!

[@christoffertorkelsson7539]

In deed🤙🏻😎

[@jacobellis293]

I second this I reference alll the time

[@char1337]

Literally the best diagnostic video out there. Followed the ridiculously easy steps given and found my neutral safety switch on my 71 demon is garbage, fix it and everything is back to as it should be. Thanks for this video!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Happy to help! Hey, I have a ‘71 Demon too. Haha.

[@chrisdemarco2473]

Funny it was running when drop off. I just taped up wiring harness because it was a web mess. Painted valve covers. And now just cranks no fire. Also no ballast just a external condenser on positive side coil. Did not change anything. But I see videos with ballast . I think 1988 is one off year. It has til carb. And 3 prong connector for distributor. Blows my mind. I think they had a bad connection from key to coil. That's my chevy mind. This is my first 318 2bbq mopar engine. Don't the condenser do what the balist does drops voltage?

[@garrettherschlip9336]

I've replaced everything an still no crank

[@sinistersmallblock]

I was just saying the same thing. He literally helped me resolve my issue

[@stuckinmygarage6220]

​​@@chrisdemarco2473Condenser/ capacitor is not a resistor by function. It reduces pitting on your points and helps last longer. Watch more DDG videos before u mess up anything. Cheers!

[@bridgetb6698]

Yup! You're the BEST!! I'm a chick, and I even clearly understood your video, assumed turtle position under the dash, pulled out the relay, went and got a new one, put it back in, and my AP5 started straight away!! Chuffed with myself, and my partner is still in disbelief I did it myself 🤗 😁 Not to mention your sense of humour is appreciated in such a highly bleep-able situation... 😡

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Outstanding! Happy to help!

[@T5M_Snake]

I have a 63 dart and this has some of the best info I've seen about old mopar yet

[@mariosaccoccio1688]

I tried explaining this to a friend out of state via the phone, who was having starter issues with his 70 'Cuda. I came across your video which was perfect for him so I sent it to him. Also, having owned 2 Chargers, (a '66 & '67) and a '70 'Cuda, it was a thrill to see a glimpse your Charger! Thanks!

[@davidjones5729]

This is the most awesome mopar electrical video on the internet. I make a point of watching it every few months.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well… thanks! Haha. I did try to pack a lot of useful stuff in this one.

[@skinny7010]

Everything my 11th grade shop teacher should've told me! Thank You, sir.

[@eddie1199]

just bought a 74 scamp i know nothing about wiring especially mopar this is super simple!! thanks

[@kenpaynter2416]

Just fixed my cranking issues on my 1977 Winnebago Brave (Mopar 440) using your video. Very helpful. Thanks.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Awesome! Happy to help.

[@garytilley6510]

You helped me get my Charger started today, thank you

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Happy to help!

[@scottdeforge1331]

Thanks Jamie! You solved the problem on my 74 D-100, new starter relay due to failure at the neutral switch connection. Now it cranks from the key! #DeadDodgeGarage is the best.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Awesome! You bet.

[@joebuck6080]

this is the best description ever !!! thank you for making it easy to understand

[@fredschwarz9502]

Wow! Removed battery from my '73 Dodge (318? 360?) motorhome years ago. Hasn't run since. Both positive and negative cables are BLACK. Forgot to label the positive cable. Now: new battery. Uh oh! Which cable is which? Came across your INFORMATIVE video (subscribed to your channel, too). Starter relay diagram @ 7:53 was just what I needed. Thank you! Liked the humor, too.

[@stuckinmygarage6220]

You made that so easy to understand. Staring at the wiring diagram is not as fun. Thanks!

[@hugogeeboss]

I just want to say thank you. I really feel like you’re going to help me get my truck running.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I hope so! You bet.

[@petergrey7125]

Man, all this information is super helpful. You are a godsend. I love the information and how you present it. These are the exact issues I’m dealing with at the moment and being that I have an old Mopar, probably for some time to come. You are going to be one of my top KZbin channels from here on. Thanks again, to uncle Tony for turning me onto you. 👍 Some of the most positive positive channels on Mopar issues to come out on KZbin. ❤

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Outstanding! Happy to help! Glad you found me - and if you have any questions, you can always ask in the comments. Thank you.

[@ariesmight6978]

Dead Dodge Garage, you have provided the exact infermation. For the immediate situation that I had. Experienced with my 1973 Dodge Carger SE. Two days ago. Thank you

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Glad to help!

[@waynet6643]

Nicely done vid. As a retired EE with mopars I sometimes get a kick out of keyboard electricians, so your last segment was right on.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’m no electrical engineer by any stretch, I just… have about half a clue and can explain my thinking. Haha. Thank you.

[@SypherF]

After todays mechanical nonsense I cant thank DDG enough for explaining things to me like im 5. It was much needed!

[@IansGarage]

I really appreciate this video. One thing I just found was that a stuck relay gives no crank symptoms while the "oil" light dims. I figured something was drawing power, turns out it was the relay itself. I followed your diagnostic technique from other videos and hit the relay, more out of frustration than anything else. And it repaired itself. Given the power draw I was convinced at the start that it would be the starter.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oh, that’s very interesting. I have run into bad relays, but I can’t remember seeing that specific symptom. Anyway, glad to help. Thanks!

[@tylerclark8643]

Bought a 66 dart and about 1k in parts was in the back and I dried a relay when trying to start the car because I had accidentally left the air filter cover over the battery terminals and burnt the relay. Luckily there was an extra one in the trunk and this video allowed me to diagnose the problem. Thanks!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Nice! Happy to help. I once bent the crap out of a header in my Swinger, which then shorted out the starter connections somehow, which fried the relay (and positive cable.) I fixed the cables and replaced the relay, and all was well.

[@kcsavers]

Very clear diagnostic sequence. Concepts same for any vehicle. Thanks!

[@TheWolverine1333]

Thank you so much for your video working on a 1971 Dodge Charger with a 383 in it. Couldnt get it to start. Followed your instructions, found it to be the relay.

[@luisfonseca811]

Literally an amazing video bro!! I literally went through that whole beginning list almost and my mechanic was like nooooo look at this instead- I never would have guessed with the neutral switch 😱

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Awesome! Glad I could help. I haven’t seen a lot of neutral safety switches fail really. That’s interesting.

[@luisfonseca811]

@@DeadDodgeGarage update! Everything works after I simply swapped the entire relay!! Still gunna do the neutral switch just in case- thank you!!

[@theg1nger396]

Cannot believe wiggling the shifter didn’t cross my mind you’re a life saver

[@rmnixon14]

Excellent video. 50+. years of driving Chryslers has taught me that often tapping on the starter relay with the handle of screwdriver will often get the car to fire right up. Replace the relay. Problem solved. On later model vehicles with the relay a new small one it's possible that the cover on the box may be mismarked. I worked on one truck where this was case

[@jondickson75]

You have literally solved a 2 year issue I was having. The shunt wire saved me

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Outstanding! Happy to help.

[@1badombre82]

It is unbelievable how reliable these old Mopars can be after sitting. I once left my 318 74 charger sitting for over a year with a warn out civic battery in it. 1 day i just hopped in it, gave it seven pumps, turned the key and kept pumping. It fired right up on first try lol. It has currently been sitting for about 4 years and im about to give it a go with a cleaned out carb, new gas, and a borrowed battery. Will let you know in a few days if it worked ahaha

[@charleskeenom9481]

Thanks for the information, the very best I have seen yet, just went to the test myself, thank you

[@sarkisbarkil867]

Very good concept.. and as I am a Chrysler guy too, and insist on this fact the electrical system is very good just a little knowledge as u said to diagnosing and interfering in a good way: here is my experience: the Ammeter is the weakest point in the system but welding an additional Cooper sheet between its two poles to strengthen it, in addition to what u mentioned in a previous video regarding the shunt wire between the alternator and battery can prevent bad electrical issues from being appeared and prove that Chrysler electrical system is the best: simple, heavy duty and easy system to apply maintenence to it.

[@bigwrenchtech]

I have finally made it to the infamous video!!! I see why it got the views that is has.....WELL DONE!!!

[@damienmikkelsen6056]

40 likes including mine??? This video is WAY underrated. Thx great video

[@ramiram84]

You need to share it

[@damienmikkelsen6056]

@@ramiram84 I have no platform to share it to or I absolutely would

[@jamesblair9614]

That “ground” guy shows up on every electrical trouble shooting discussion. Can you imagine what the engine compartment on his car looks like, individual hard wired grounds for every single accessory, all running back to the battery negative terminal, it must look like the back side of a New York City telephone exchange building a hundred years ago.

[@robjcy]

Thank you for the video. It saved me today on my current project.

[@rickjansky1560]

Wow so glad you made this. Explains so much. Love the diagrams too. Thanks

[@BRTowe]

Not covered in the video, but I bought a 80s Dodge truck once that would crank but not start. They had given up on it. The small body ground to the battery had pulled out of it's ring terminal and fallen down kind of out of sight. I reattached it and the truck was perfectly fine. Ran like a top.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Interesting. I wouldn’t have included that as a rule, because I have had plenty of cars with a missing body ground that by all rights should have issues like that, and yet don’t. And sometimes the symptom is different. Our van, for example - it had (still has? I don’t think I’ve fixed it) a ground terminal issue where the body ground comes out because it’s a hair short. When that happens, it starts and runs fine - but doesn’t charge. Reconnect the body ground and it charges. I still haven’t figured out how that makes sense.

[@juneyshu6197]

Husby gettin his 68 RR goin after 23 years, wouldnt start with key. You saved him with the wire! He choked hard on the exhaust tho, time to pull it outside. Thank you❤👍🤠

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Awesome! Not the choking part. Haha. You bet!

[@dankdizzl3546]

It must be a sign from the Lord. Ive been looking at getting my first carborated vehicle. So Ive been watching these kinds of videos. Ive been looking at a few second gen B250 vans. And you go and show a couple at the end. 😂

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yeah they just kind of collect around here. Haha.

[@handlerpandler424]

Thanks for making this video you helped me out today with a problem I was having with my 66 dart.

[@idahofallssanta]

Thanks for this! Had the exact issue you are describing and was able to get my 76 W100 back up and running!

[@Witchboard1]

Found this video after I diagnosed my no start issue. The yellow wire coming off the starter relay was broken internally. This video is a great resource for a no start. I'm now looking at the fusible links, or possibly lack there of. The engine was swapped in this car and I don't know if they directly connected them or if they just aren't labelled as fusible links. Still checking into before I tempt fate.

[@jamesblair9614]

The curse of the occasional intermittent no start situation. No matter how many times you try and duplicate it in the garage, it doesn’t happen. What’s guaranteed to trigger it is being dressed up and out for the evening on a date.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Charging problems and flickering lights, too…

[@JakeStar-oe9ev]

I have one too. Yep, always does it only when my girlfriend is in the passenger seat. Thing is haunted. Note*** you can manually jump the starter

[@JakeStar-oe9ev]

Thankyou. Great video. My 1974 Dodge motorhome with the 440 V8 has that starter relay junction box on the frame in the middle right next to the transmission. I'm gonna try replacing it. Has anyone else replaced it and had the problem of the 'intermitate start' problem go away?

[@DwJ5188]

Great video, needed this for my 72 Challenger that just shut off mid drive on the highway at 65mph

[@richardellett906]

Thank you very much this problem is driving me insane. Own mopars since 1978 I never had one do this seems everything I check is not the problem. But I'll check out the stuff that you put in your video

[@CoconutGun]

I've been looking for this video for almost 3 years now. I have a 74 plymouth Duster that didn't start one day, and hasn't started since. I figured that there was no way to bridge the starter, because I knew they didn't use solenoids. When I ttied starting it the day it stopped working, a ground wire that connected the steering column to the body melted and burned my leg. Would this be a problem with a bad negative wire on the relay? I just tried bridging bridging the relay and the engine turned over for the first time in a few years.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Woah. No, that sounds like a bad ground elsewhere. Like the main ground cable. Somehow all of the load of the starter or other components is going through that one tiny ground.

[@CoconutGun]

@@DeadDodgeGarage thanks for getting back to me. I've been curious as to how I can find the ground. I'm not exactly smart when it comes to electrical, but when I pulled the steering column, the wires in the loom were all reading a good signal. I wonder if it has something to do with the electrical connection at the firewall?

[@johnzumstein4353]

Love that first Gen Charger

[@brandiegunn7615]

Thank you this is a major help on my 84 RC

[@anthonysantillo1358]

Thanks dude good job,fixed my 69 coronet,relay switch

[@thomasphillips5735]

Thank you so much this video. It was a life saver. God bless you.

[@jimfreeman5374]

Great job. Love the simple commentary

[@MyManx2]

This video was exactly what I needed Thanks so much

[@geraldjacobs2376]

excellent video. well done , easy to understand. Thanks.

[@jayo961]

I need to spend one day with you and finalized my 85 dodge truck this help tremendously though lol

[@rodsgarage]

This is right on time! Now I can troubleshoot it myself👍

[@salcantatore6140]

Thanks great detail and clearly spoken you absolutely help understand the potential problem and how to trace

[@MrCudaguy71]

I have a 71 E body all new wiring on entire car, the car cranks when I turn the key but won’t start. But if I use a remote start switch on the relay it fires right up. Any thoughts? Thanks

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

You are missing the “IGN 2” power circuit. It should be a brown wire that connects either to one side of the ballast resistor or directly to coil positive. If it is in place, you could have a problem in the ignition switch, or a bad connection in firewall, etc. If you are using an aftermarket ignition system, it is probably powered off of only the blue wire, and you will need to bridge blue and brown together to get this to work properly. I discussed how this works in my recent “big ballast resistor video,” and also in my “Classic Chrysler Ignition Systems” video. Hope that helps.

[@MrCudaguy71]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I’m looking at it now, there is double brown wires into one plug connected to one side of the ballast resistor and one blue wire plugged into the other end of the resistor. Thanks

[@MrCudaguy71]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I just made a jumper wire and it fired right up. I do have an Mallory ignition system installed. Thanks

[@nickshale6926]

Hi Jamie. I have a 66 Charger - all stock with 727 torqueflite. Was originally a non A/C 318 but someone dropped a 400 big block into at some point in it's life. I have the classic issue with the EL gauges. I have good 12V power coming from the battery. No issues with starter or headlights. Courtesy lights all work and have power, and same with turn indicator signals in the gauge cluster. But I have no power to the electroluminescent gauges, no power to the original AM radio and no power to the torqueflite shifter panel. I have replaced the transformer behind the glovebox and I've replaced the fuses - still no joy. Someone suggested replacing the headlight switch unit - I have a new one but haven't fitted it yet. I know with EL gauges, when one goes, it knocks the rest out. I wasn't expecting it to knock out power to the radio though. I have done some reading tests on power coming from the white/orange wires that connect to the power transformer, I've got 12v coming through the orange wire but nothing coming through the white one - that's not right, right?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The white wires are the various outputs to the EL accessories. As this output is AC, you likely wouldn’t get a reading with your meter on DC anyway, or not one that made sense anyway. Good that you’ve verified you do have power going into the transformer - on the orange wire. This is the standard dash lighting color code in classic Mopars. In the Charger, the shifter and radio back light are also electroluminescent. I assume you mean only the back lighting is out in the radio? An EL problem definitely won’t knock the radio itself out, just the lighting. As I’m sure you know, the transformer is a common failure. I have replaced mine twice… and it’s dead again. But obviously you’ve ruled that out already, assuming your new one is good. You could check the white wire for AC voltage, but I think it’s worth assuming there is none, as you have no lights. What you’ve likely got going on is a short somewhere. You are correct - If any of the EL circuits are shorted, it knocks out all of them. The alternating current can no longer alternate - or something like that. I’m a DC guy. Haha. Anyway, the diagnosis for this is as follows - disconnect the AC / lighting circuits one by one until everything else lights up. You could start with the shifter and radio, but I would guess your issue is in the cluster. It’s been years since I went through my cluster, but I believe you can disconnect the gauges one by one from behind with them still in the car. There may also be a disconnect for the entire cluster. The ultimate fix in my experience - if you do find the issue is in the gauges - is to pull the cluster and transformer, put them on the bench, and go through them one by one. You can power the transformer on the bench with a battery or with a bench power supply if you have one available. Remove each gauge, clean any corrosion and nastiness that you may see, and reinstall. This can also brighten the gauges if they don’t work well. I have used conductive liquid circuit stuff for the needles… with mixed results. Very difficult to repair with a solderer. Can do more harm than good.

[@jeromestrain]

I love your intro.

[@jeromestrain]

I told my wife: "see I'm not the only one that cleans that way"

[@christopherarmbruster6241]

Thanks...hope to get my 79 dodge rv running

[@danielweith1075]

Excellent Job!

[@lamm442]

Good job, very good explanation and simple helped me out a lot, thanks.

[@cray3027]

Really informative video. Thanks for keeping it simple

[@mikel4170]

outstanding easy to follow vid, going to use this on my 69 gtx, fingers crossed,,

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll help as much as I can.

[@MadMadMistress]

Thanks!

[@fullthrottlekindaguy]

Thank you for the trouble shooting tips; genius! Love your content.

[@sergiocarrillo2672]

Dude I need your help! I follow your videos. 1986 Ramcharger 360 royal se. Everything was working fine then all of a sudden. Headlights won’t turn on, no radio, no dash lights , no power windows. The blinker lights will still turn on. I’m stumped 😂

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Trucks like that have multiple fusible links. I’m guessing you fried one of them. I don’t have a whole lot of expertise on those later trucks unfortunately. The basic principles are the same but there is a lot more going on. There should be a fusible link pack near to the driver side inner fender. It’ll probably be like four red wires all coming out of one big ball. Look and see if any of those have melted. If so, you can replace it - but you’ll be left with the question of what shorted out and fried it in the first place.

[@allanperryman388]

I learned so much. Thanks

[@craigbowley6783]

Great video. Very informative 👍

[@user-wx3wc4bo7c]

The way you cleaned off the work bench makes me want to attempt that with the Acadian mechanics I work with but as you said it might not kill me but it may cause me great harm

[@allanperryman388]

I will stick to the points. Like your video " to the point" thanks

[@troyinater]

Thank you, this video is a life saver. I purchased a 1979 motorhome with a 440ci in December. Totally unfamiliar with mopar or motorhomes. There is no power to anything in cab, key, accessories or starter. After a few weeks I was able to find the relay mounted on inside of frame next to transmission. I reached up to check the wires and wondered why there was a vacuum hose in that spaghetti western. After further investigation it turned out to be a wire that vaporized on the inside only leaving the rubber jacket. I am presuming this is what you call the fusible link? The fuse is the wire about 4 inches long connected from bat on relay to another red wire going into harness? I haven't removed the relay yet as I wanted to get new one and research what else I should be replacing first as to not get wires mixed up but your video has made me feel more at ease now. What could be the cause of it melting? Thanks for your help !

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That sure sounds like a fusible link. Just like a fuse, they protect against dead short circuits to ground and excessive draw. So you may well be dealing with another issue that will hopefully make itself apparent with a new fusible link installed.

[@troyinater]

@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for replying....since posting I've watched a couple more of your videos. Process of elimination is key here. I'm sure I will be well educated on classic mopar ignition systems by the time I get this all sorted out. It wouldn't be so difficult if it was at least in a class c motorhome as the factory cab would be there but unfortunately the class a motorhome do not leave factory with anything except frame, suspension and drive train. All the things that would normally be found on the firewall and wheel wells is not on class A which makes it difficult to find where things are. Thanks again from southern alberta and I look forward to more videos.

[@704406bbl]

Very informative. Cleared up a mystery to understand the safety neutral switch. I have a 69 roadrunner that has a 3 pronged safety switch plug and I got a early style transmission with a one wire switch. Looking for a later model trans but no luck yet short of buying a rebuilt one from summit catalog. Thanks for sharing.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

You may have another problem with early trans and late engine - the pilot / hub on the torque converter changed sizes as well. I can never remember the exact change over year, or which size is which. I know there is a spacer available commercially to center the smaller hub in the larger opening. I think you’re out of luck going the other way.

[@704406bbl]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for replying. My transmission is out of a 68 roadrunner and my research tells me that early 68s had the single wire and later 68 and on has the 3 wire like my 69. If I can’t find one like I want I’ll probably just get a TCI Street fighter. That has the later one. I do appreciate you taking time too reach out.

[@peterpease5495]

Do you know how to bypass the seat belt interlock system on a 74 charger?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I should’ve covered that in this video. My bad. Anyway, it’s pretty straightforward to eliminate, but it would be hard for me to explain the connections to be made here. I don’t have a ‘74 here or this would be a perfect video. I seem to recall there is an emergency start button on the relay under the hood to use in a pinch.

[@peterpease5495]

there is a button, my car doesn't have belts yet so its a p.i.t.a to have to hit the button every time to start it to move it around lol @@DeadDodgeGarage

[@84koolkid]

Hi I tried starting my 1969 dodge charger rt sitting 30 year’s turn ignition switch nothing happens, have some accessories and head lights new battery. But the wierd thing is when hooked up the battery, the starter began to spin on it own wondering why that would do that

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Lots of possibilities you’re going to have to work through there. Wires on the big and small terminals on the starter relay making contact can do that. Same with the two wires on the starter itself. Or, the relay stuck closed, or a short in the starter itself. Starter relay being bad after sitting forever is not at all uncommon, but they usually just don’t work - not normal for them to stick on.

[@andyworgess8998]

Excellent video

[@jimmyharris6056]

new to mopar have a lindsay air compressor with a 360 with issues. The alternator wire is fried. it has no power to starter. Gonna try some of your ideas. any advice wood be nice.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well that’ll be fun. I wouldn’t know anything about the electrical system found in that - but I suspect the principles are similar. Have to wonder if it has a Chrysler charging system, or a GM as is so often found on equipment like that. Wonder if there was a short in the alternator and it cooked something important.

[@MarcS-mp1je]

I have a 1970 Chrysler Newport with fairly low mileage and it has basically the same electrical system that all of these 1960s-1970s era Mopars have and Ma’ Mopar knew there was a problem with their electrical system. On fleet vehicles (mainly taxis and police cars) Mopar addressed this problem with a “fleet style bypass” fixing the sub par factory wiring. The full electrical current of the vehicle runs through two of those packard style terminals at the bulkhead which are prone to overheating( for smaller circuits they’re just fine, but not for the alternator wire feed and return wires as there’s too much current passing through them)and that problematic amp gauge that I’ve seen melt a few times after several years on regular passenger Mopar vehicles. Even worse on a b body Mopar the firewall bulkhead connectors are right above the drivers side exhaust manifold which adds even more heat to this area which equals more resistance. Even on my low mileage Newport one of these packard connectors behind the instrument cluster was melting, the firewall bulkhead was ok however.I did this fleet style bypass a few years ago, bypassing the amp gauge in favor of a volt meter as well and haven’t had a problem since.

[@AnnoyedCoastalBeach-nl4tm]

My father had a 68 Dodge Coronet no start ,I checked everything I could think of. Turned out it was the Amp meter in the gage cluster first time I ever seen this issue. Removed the wires , spliced wires to an after market gage mounted at bottom of dash. Ford and Chevy don't do this.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I discussed that possibility in the video. Yes, that’s a special Mopar problem. Well, Mopar, English manufacturers, earlier Ford and GM products which totally did have an amp gauge… yeah…

[@countrybum3112]

Top shelf stuff

[@CarlosSilva-bl1ch]

I have a '66 Ply Fury and wondering how many volts come out of the yellow wire of the ignition when the ignition is solely turned to the "ON" or "Run" position without cranking the engine or engaging the starter?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Is it the same yellow wire at the starter relay that goes to the start relay that I showed on the Dart in the video (and is in the thumbnail of this video?) If so, that's the starter relay trigger wire, which should show zero volts unless the key is in the start position.

[@CarlosSilva-bl1ch]

@@DeadDodgeGarage It is the same wire as one you show. I pulled out my multimeter and tested each pin at the ignition switch. In off position I would get >> blk=0 volts, red=17.4 v, yel=7.4 v, brwn=5.8 v, dk blue's=0.2 v; in start position (no cranking) >> blk=17.4 v, red=17.4 v, yel=15.7 v, brwn=15.6 v, dk blue's=17.4 v & in Start position & cranking engine w/starter >> blk=0 volts, red=17.4 v, yel=17.4 v, brwn=17.2 v, dk blue's=0.2 v . Then after dinner, I was reading that a multimeter can result in higher volt readings if its battery is low and well, the battery symbol was on during my testing so my results noted above are jacked up but hopefully will be consistent as shown depending on position of key/ignition. I am such a novice at this but I'll get it. I installed a Pertronix Ignitor II with matching Flame Thrower 0.6 ohm coil.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@CarlosSilva-bl1ch That's all very strange. I don't trust those readings at all, but you may have explained most of that. Does your engine try to crank itself with the key turned to run? Why are you even checking this?

[@CarlosSilva-bl1ch]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I needed to make sure I would get 12v at the new coil which I am now that I am bypassing ballast resistor as highly recommended when installing these Pertronix products. Anyhow, I wanted to better understand the wires coming out of the ignition switch and checking their voltage before exiting the cabin and then after in the engine compartment with ignition switch to On-only (no engine cranking) and ign switch passed On while cranking engine. With some help from my son, I was able to verify the voltage(s) of the various wires coming from the ign. I think I'm all good for now. I apologize for any inconvenience and time.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@CarlosSilva-bl1ch Ahh, ok - very good. The only thing I will add is, I seem to recall that the Pertronix points replacement systems do want a ballast resistor still in place? I don't want to swear to that and give you the wrong information. I would refer to their installation instructions.

[@antoninoorfano8187]

Great video

[@toddthewodd]

I dig the stream by your pad.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I wish it was a stream. It's actually a tidal slough that is kinda nasty.

[@jordanbrown3332]

Any wisdom for a 78 trailduster that has no power in the cabin and no crank or start,but I can crank it by jumping by starter relay but no start just crank. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for the good videos.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The list of things to check may be slightly different than the basic muscle car stuff I was addressing here, but the procedures are the same. Get yourself a test light and start stabbing stuff. Fusible link will be a good one to check - and the amp gauge. But also firewall connector. One way or another, your main power feed isn’t reaching the important bits inside the truck.

[@greekmetaldoofus7810]

i love you man. thank you.

[@12footstroke15]

Just found your channel. Love it. I have an 85 ramcharger 318 all was fine idling in park shifted to reverse and it shut off. And nothing. Popped hood and ground wire to starter was melting. Any help wound greatly appreciated.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Ground wire to starter? There shouldn’t be a ground wire going to the starter… unless your main ground wire goes down there? My area of electrical expertise is in the 60s and 70s so I’m having a hard time picturing what that could be without seeing it. I have had shorts in the alternator fry main supply wires in the past. There are definitely many other possibilities. I wonder if you’re looking at a positive wire though. If you need more help you can email me pictures at [e-mail]

[@TrinityDestroyer]

Ok, so 1970 Dodge Dart. Multi meter shows power coming from key to starter relay. Neutral safety is showing grounded. Car starts when putting screwdriving between battery and starter connectors on relay. So, odds are relay is bad? I wouldn’t get power back to the relay from the key terminal if something was wrong along the way? Also, all accessories work. Electric fuel pump and fans, headlights, etc.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yes. If you’ve got crank power from key and ground from neutral safety, but no relay action, that’s definitely a bad relay.

[@raywinsett6798]

I like this video Here is my problem. I turn ignition switch on, all lights show up on instrument panel But no start no crank So I checked fuses, relays All are good So I disconnect the wire on the solenoid switch on starter S terminal Ran a wire up to battery and with switch on Touch the Pos on battery and she cranks up I also while I was under truck I connected a wire to the wire I took loose ran it up to top of engine so I can test to see if it is hot, ( that wire should be hot when you turn the switch to crank the truck) when ever I think I have found the problem SO now I can research my problem I found at the fuse box Starter Relay and Fuse were good So I pulled the fuse and noticed where the fuse plugs in (you have 2 male legs) only one side where the leg plugs in had a female clip So the fuse is not connecting I took box loose Flipped it over looking for a wire that is just laying there not connected to anything I have looked of and on for 4 days and have not found a loose wire Now I'm puzzled ILL keep checking and hope I find the problem

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I think you’re looking for a wire that isn’t there. Also, no fuse has anything to do with the starting circuit, so there isn’t much point in looking there anyway. What vehicle is this you’re working on? If it’s a classic Chrysler product from at least the mid 60s to the mid 70s, I have given you all of the tests in this video to narrow down which component is keeping it from cranking. Neutral safety switch and starter relay are the most common failures.

[@fubarmodelyard1392]

You've given me some things to try. I've been chasing an electrical gremlin in my 78 150. She'll start but not with the key or jumping the relay. I have to run a wire directly from battery positive to the small nut on the starter. Once running she runs fine

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

If jumping the relay doesn’t work then it must be a break in the small wire leading from relay to starter. Or bad crimp? Or bad connection at one end or the other. That is a direct connection to the small connection and it should do exactly the same thing electrically speaking. I’ve never seen that before, but hey, there’s a first time for everything.

[@fubarmodelyard1392]

@@DeadDodgeGarage it's new to me too. I was always able to jump the relay or the starter itself. Probably sitting for some time in Louisiana has diminished a few wires and connections.

[@stephenwest798]

Could also be bad contacts in the relay, if it pulls in and you don't get power out of the load side but have power on the feed side then most likely the contacts are bad.@@DeadDodgeGarage

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@stephenwest798 He said it wouldn't crank when jumping/bridging the relay, bypassing any potential relay failure in the doing.

[@stephenwest798]

Correct, I was just pointing out the fact that if the relay pulls in and you don't get power out of it then the contact are most likely bad, some people think a relay is good just because it pulls in, they can hear it click, we both know better than that but not everyone does.@@DeadDodgeGarage

[@jsherman385]

Glad I found your channel. Like your diagrams. My idea regards to amp guage: could a insulated bus bar be installed across the two poles to take some load off the Amp guage? Your thought?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I do think that would work. The trouble is, that doesn’t bypass the firewall connector - which is the bigger of the two problems… if you’re pulling more current than the amp gauge can handle, you’re definitely pulling more current than the firewall connector should handle.

[@michaeljarnagin7364]

Just tie those two wires together and bypass that fire hazard and put a after market gauge in the car

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@michaeljarnagin7364 Amp gauges fry, sure, but again - your solution doesn't address the firewall connector problem, which is as big of a concern on these cars.

[@josephnepsey3738]

Here's a question what about no start with a 1976 Dodge sportsman motorhome. Was told it had to be 300 engine in it not sure what that is. It isn't 8 cylinder looks like a four barrel carburetor. The headers have three lines on them for the exhaust headers have three lines on the exhaust manifold headers which leads to believe that it is a 318 motor. We have power coming from the battery to the firewall to the amp gauge to the ignition all the accessories work, starter has power and is not seized up and is working just fine. The carburetor and the tailpipes had smoke coming out of it clear when it was backfiring after messing with the firing order and gapping the spark plugs to 0.35 like they are supposed to be. I am going to the vehicle later today and will be checking the neutral safety wire that is on the steering column and I will also be checking the starter relaying and the carburetor.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

If you’ve already confirmed the starter is fine, meaning the engine is turning when you hold the key? Forget relay, neutral safety, and honestly forget this entire video, because a no-crank, no-start is not your problem at all. You say this isn’t an 8 cylinder, but a 318…is. I don’t know what you mean by “3 lines on the exhaust manifold.” I really don’t think I can help you here. I highly recommend you consult a mechanic.

[@richardellett906]

Thank you for all the helpful information! Still chasing down that gremlin. So a quick question if you have time I have a MSD blaster to coil reading 1.0 on primary and 11.57 on secondary is this coil any good?

[@dskinner59]

Very good thanks!!

[@Jaycenbanuelos]

Thank you 💯💯💯💯🙏

[@bluddynucklesgarage]

74 duster 318. No crank. Battery good-check, new neutral safety switch - check, new relay - check, power in car- check, power to relay -check, cranks and starts at terminals of relay -check. Disconnected neutral safety switch from relay and grounded to bolt - starter clicks like battery is dead, no crank or start. Checked linkage on transmission 100 of times - check. I need to check voltage from yellow wire from ignition key. What should the voltage be at that connection? Would the ignition switch be the issue? Just when you think your done, something else pops up. Gotta love old cars.😵‍💫 Thanks in advance. Love the channel 👍.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

74 only has a seatbelt interlock solenoid. Yours could well be bad… But first, put on your seatbelt and try again.

[@bluddynucklesgarage]

I never use the seatbelt 🤪🤣. I will check that and reply back. Thank you for the quick response. U da best.

[@troydavis8440]

100% awesome help. CHECK ALL YOUR FUSABLE LINKS AND GROUNDS.

[@cmscms123456]

Great video, thanks

[@dub944]

Thanks for great content! What gauge wire would you recommend for the shunt wire?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I usually go for 8 gauge. You bet!

[@dub944]

@@DeadDodgeGarage you’re the man! (Any forums you recommend for 1st gen Dodge B series vans? They seem scarce) cheers from Victoria, Vancouver Island Canada!

[@russmahar8853]

Great Video! If I have a push button with 2 leads to start car with hood open should i put leads to key and neutral safety switch or the starter / solenoid one? Thank you!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Not neutral safety switch, that would create a short. You would want to use the large stud for power, and the middle wire going to the starter would be your second wire.

[@russmahar8853]

Thanks so much. Trying to get the engine in in a couple more weeks and start tying up a lot of Luz sense. I’ve also been looking for a new positive cable for the 78 magnum. Mine has a large white connector about 10 to 15 inches from the positive clamp. Everything I see online is so much different. But I think I can get that wired up correctly but thank you so much. I appreciate it.

[@TomC-xx8dq]

Great video! 472 hemi, 5 sp manual, no crank condition. Have 12.6 volts at battery and starter. Have power inside the vehicle. If I jump the relay, get a lot of sparks but no crank. Bench tested starter and it works. Any ideas where to go next? Thanks

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I would be suspicious of the main power cable going down to the starter. If there are sparks, the solenoid is being energized. But I would also expect to hear it clicking/clunking as the gear kicks out. Also, make sure the engine turns by hand.

[@TomC-xx8dq]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Got it, thanks for the reply. Engine turns by hand. I'll have to check out / replace the cable, although its in like new condition.

[@TomC-xx8dq]

@@DeadDodgeGarage New starter did the trick. While the old starter passed the bench test, it apparently couldn't do it under load. Note there was a click previously and no crank. Thanks.

[@richardellett906]

Can you bypass the two wires on the back of a amp gauge in a Plymouth if you are using aftermarket gauges

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Absolutely. Splice them together in an effective way. If you add an external charge wire (shunt wire - alternator output to battery positive) then there will be very little load on those wires.