Cleaning a bicycle chain with WD-40 and then relubing it

Every couple of months it is good to clean your chain and then apply fresh lube. This keeps the amount of wear down and keeps all the parts working properly. With this chain so far I've done about 2500 kilometers and the chain and gears look in very good shape :).
I am running a Shimano HG53 chain, Shimano HG50 cassette (9 speed) and an SLX M675 rear hub. Front chainrings are Shimano Deore on Sram S-1000 cranks.
I recommend using wet weather lube if you get sporadic rain and general damp weather and dry weather lube, when you are running in very dry conditions where rain is very infrequent.

[@JNOTECH]

Just some constructive comments for you @RoadsideCycles. I've worked on drivetrains for years as a bike mechanic for professional riders and my specific job was the drivetrain system itself, this was back in the 90's however. The wearing on chains isn't where you can see it, meaning it's NOT external. What causes chains to fail or wear is due to the pins wearing grooves or flat spots over time, that's what causes chains to stretch. When a chain fails, it's not because of the rollers or side (or inner and outer) plates. It'll be because one of the pins have failed. While it's good that you're demonstrating what I consider an quick, external cleaning, your method skips the most important thing which is to flush out contaminants and spent lubricant in order to set the stage for new lubricant to seep into those pins inside the rollers. The external side plates can show surface rust and not fail because it'll take a disaster level incident to make those fail, usually involving destroying something else at the same time. No lubricant to my knowledge maintains 100% integrity as it did sitting in the bottle, they degrade over time due to a combination of factors. WD-40 is a water displacing, metal oxide loosening product, however as a cleaner even pump gasoline can do better due to the detergents. I don't recommend using any petro cleaner without a follow up wash unless you're absolutely sure your lubricant choice is compatible with the cleaner. We use ordinary dish soap like Dawn or whatever we can get our hands on to wash out the degreaser before we apply lubricant. Ideally, the best way is to ultrasonic clean your chain in a degreasing bath mixed with hot water. Next best method is to use a chain cleaning device (such as the Park Tool CM-5.2) or something similar. In either case, it is best to wash the degreaser out using dish soap (because degreasers are often incompatible with lubes), then apply the lube of your choice. If you're looking for an option to clean and lube in one step, one that cleans incredibly well and leaves behind a very good lubricant, Rocklube makes the Gold and Extreme (Red is for road bikes) where you stream the lube over the cassette onto your chain to soak it (which is the cleaner), let it sit for a few seconds and wipe it off until the rag is clean. One tip I'll share is if you lube your chain properly, when you bend each link with your fingers sideways, you should see lubricant seeping out of the spaces between the rollers and plates. It doesn't matter if it's a liquid wax lube, ceramic, petro-based or otherwise. I see that you prefer Finish Line's Wet Lube, that's fine. However make sure to take your time and drip onto each link and not just in one area hoping to spread it evenly over the entire chain. You might be wondering, where do I get the idea that your pins may be taking a beating despite you not seeing any symptoms? That's a good question and to be honest, it's hard for me to convince you due to the following. Professional racers have access to mechanics and multiple chains, we don't invest just one chain for a the rider however during the off-season they may ride on the same chain without a mechanic's assistance. When we inspect their "training" chains, we often break apart the links just so we can take a look at the pins. While a chain checker tool may show little or no wear, we have seen signs of scoring on the pins, but not to the extent to where it'll affect the chain length. With ample lighting and a magnifier, you can also see corresponding wear inside the rollers where the pin makes contact. Pins are brittle, and the best way to look at this is to look at a car's disc rotor. From the outside the rotor may appear thick and solid, but what people cannot see is how deep some of the circular grooves are which can only be measured using a micrometer. Too deep of a scoring means it can't be resurfaced or jeopardizes the structural integrity of that rotor. Let me close by saying props to you sharing a nice video which may surprisingly help many because a lot of riders don't maintain their drivetrains much and even something as simple as your video can help a rider with a bad habit by doing a quick surface clean and relube, however please don't use this as a replacement for proper maintenance.

[@tonycampbell1178]

JNOTECH thank god for someone who actually knows from experience what is correct method. Thanks for posting.

[@thirdtrumpet4446]

great post, thanx!

[@pavelperina7629]

Great, I would like to see this post pinned on top. I guess using WD40 on chain is harmless, but it may have tendency to clean metal parts from other and more suitable oils. It may be worse to use WD40 on other parts such as fork and sealed bearings. But i'm not sure, some people swear it's best oil for everything except cooking, other swears that it damages everything else than metal. At least both groups agree it gets everywhere.

[@jayobrine8475]

WD-40® literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed the product back in 1953. Its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver. The lubricant-like properties of WD-40 come not from the substance itself, but from dissolving components. And the effect doesn't last. It does contain petroleum base oil. WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are: 50% "aliphatic hydrocarbons",

[@ontheler]

I arrived here and found a very good information (from the comment and the sub-comment). Thank you everyone. May God bless you and your bikes.

[@tiaretsnyheter6026]

Looking beautiful, and good to get some confirmation, since this is exactly what I've been doing from intuition and trail and error myself!

[@chocolate_squiggle]

Geezus the comments here and elsewhere while trying to school myself on this topic. I thought the drama around motorcycle chains was bad. It's a chain. Enjoy riding your bike. To RoadsideCycles - thanks this was the best quick demo I've seen so far - People can spend 30-40 mins of maintenance after every ride if they want but the fact is that's not warranted for my cheap hybrid nor is it likely to happen. I feel doing something like what you've shown, regularly, will suffice and is certainly better than putting it off and putting it off until I have a spare hour to do it properly. I made that mistake with motorbike chains in the past. Little and often regimen is much more likely to actually get done and this is just what I was looking for. Much appreciated.

[@gsum1000]

After you've finished spraying WD 40 towards your disk brakes the next stage is to clean the rotor and disk pads with acetone.

[@plutoplatters]

That's some pretty good motion !!

[@horse69outside]

Year round daily cyclist in Ontario Canada, on wet salty dusty dry freezing boiling and everything in between, I wipe-clean and lube-wipe with wd40 as necessary, sometimes every day. It only takes thirty seconds. Never have chain issues.

[@rickstokes2239]

Use a brush or chain cleaning kit with brushes and clean chain inside and out. You want to flush ALL grime from it. What sense does it make to clean the outside and then lube it when the places you're lubing are still dirty?

[@thedancingalien7766]

I put mine in the dishwasher now all my meals taste of oil it's a good job i'm Half robot

[@fionagallagher1084]

Lol 🤣

[@Eng586]

Your arteries ain't gonna be clogged anymore at least

[@slimpivot8188]

Hahahaha thanks half robot. Now I dont even care if my chain is clean or not

[@Greenjuiceman]

I use 3 in 1 - certainly seems much better than any bicycle specific lube - used it on RAB 2019

[@braulioperez181]

Nice video. I do use the citrus solvent first and use mineral spirits (less expensive than WD40) to remove it and the steel and dirt residues. Then, I clean it with a clean rag and use a quality oil. It works great for me.

[@christheobald6183]

Best way mate 👍🏻

[@norms3913]

I clean the chainrings and the cassettes with the chain so my whole drive system is cleaned

[@DanielleHalls]

Came here for knowledge. Comment section came through!!! 🙌🏼

[@danqodusk8140]

WD stands for water displacement. I doesn't absorb oil, it displaces water. I like your clean and lube method. Perfectly practical and easy.

[@bgm-1961]

You're only cleaning the outside of the chain. Except that the chain is wearing on the inside, which in turn wears your gears. Thus you need to also clean the inside of the chain, then relube. If you use a specialized chain cleaning tool as used by the pros, it's designed to run the chain through a degreasing bath with brushes that also scrub the inside of the chain.

[@chynataina1681]

Thanks! Great tips! What oil type do u recommend I use in humid Florida Climate? (and soon to be rain season too)

[@waedjradi]

I like how he said it's a rust-penetrant. Realistic.

[@LitNews]

From the WD-40 website: “While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.”

[@mrsubaru5367]

I think you missed the most important part,the inside of the chain... try it with a small chain clearer with brushes,works great.

[@bakachan3601]

WD 40 is a petroleum based solvent as I understand it. It removes oils, grease, and even breaks down wax. It's epic for cleaning bike parts.

[@DS-ff6ze]

Oils degrease other oils.

[@j3_designs_426]

@@DS-ff6ze oil civil war

[@rsrnsrwds]

I did just kind of cleaning and learned the hard way on 2 bikes years ago. I toasted two chains and destroyed two cassettes after less than 1000 miles. "Cleaning" your chain this way will only lead to a quickly worn out chain and likely a worn out cassette. As others have pointed out here - the wear that matters is on the inside of the chain where you can't see it. The black gunk you see on the rag acts like grinding paste between the rollers and pins. The pins wear and leads to what is called chain stretch. A stretched chain will destroy a cassette and chain ring quickly. An inexpensive, drop in chain wear checkers are great tools for indication of wear and it only takes 10 seconds to measure. Any wear over 0.5% and it's time for a new chain before your cassette is ruined. The very best way to clean a chain is to take it off and soak it in a solvent bath. You'll be shocked at how much gunk comes out of a chain that otherwise looks fairly clean. Wash off the solvents with water, dry, then re-lube each and every roller on the chain. Do this every 500 miles or after every wet, dirty ride and your drivetrain will last a long time. Speed links are awesome. Also, all chain lubricants are NOT the same. HUGE differences in friction reduction between the lubes. Some expensive and popular lubes are actually not very good at all. Believe only the independent testing labs.

[@randomescu]

compressed air after wd40 wouldnt do a better job? or even only pressurised air then lubed with wet or dry spray?

[@ponzie1647]

Very nice tips. Thanks for sharing. God bless 🙏

[@harveyjoneswoodsman5956]

Water displacement Catalyst number 40 look it up

[@derektaylor2845]

Soak in gasoline for 10 mins. Shake for two mins. Use degreaser to remove oil residue. Wash degreaser off with water. Let completely dry. Make a batch of 1/3 paraffin wax, 1/3 paraffin oil and 1/3 xylene and soak for 30 mins. You will see the grimy sand and metal pieces come out from in between the pins. If you are sceptical get a magnet after the gasoline soak and see all the metal particulates attach to the magnet.

[@Bigbossperson]

Just set on fire to remove excess gasoline

[@joemdawg]

do you have to put lube? or wd 40 is fine

[@supernoobsmith5718]

Naptha bath for cleaning. Dry teflon lube for lubing. No more dirty pant legs. If you ride daily then you should be wiping and relubing it often, wet or dry. I wipe and lube my chain every ride. Takes 30 seconds.

[@Thankful_n_Grateful]

#1 Washing: To clean my bike all over can i use: a. WD-40 Bike Wash? b. Dish soap in bucket of water? c. Simply Green diluted in water? I have Shimano RS81 Alloy Carbon Clinchers C35 wheel set and I believe both front & rear hubs are sealed; so will that prevent water & soap from harming the bearings in the hub during washing wheels with any of the three items above? Lube: Can use WD-40 All Condition Bike Lube to lube chain & brake calipers?

[@asafegous]

Lithium grease or silicone?

[@gladitor04]

your not cleaning in the groves just the exterior you also need to clean the interior,as in the inner chain..paper towels do not work people...

[@tandago7281]

Does this clean rust in the chain?

[@matosbruno6522]

That is what i do when i don't want to take off the chain, inside the rollers the dirt is still in doing damage.

[@kernowarty]

Yes but you would have got more dirt off with just the dry towel if you had moved the towel back and forth like you did when it had WD 40 on it.

[@Maggikhor963]

Can I use motorcycle engine oil for lubing bicycle chain?

[@RichyH1000]

Alternatively use a rag with some Morgan Blue race oil spayed on to it, and use the same technique.

[@polaris911]

why is there so much conflicting information on how to clean the chain? Should I clean after every ride? My last bike chain had rust on it after just 2 wet rides.

[@spoon7177]

Maybe try using wet lube if you’re not already? Dry lube tends to wash away in wet weather conditions leaving your chain oil-less. Wet lube resists weather better but tends to gunk you your chain a little more but it should stop your rusting problems just be sure to clean your drivetrain when it gets too dirty. Another tip for applying wet lube is to put 1 drop on every link and then leave it for 10 minutes so the lube can seep into the rollers, after that just go over the chain once with a rag to take off the excess lube. Hope this helps 😀

[@LitNews]

If you want to avoid rust after a ride in the wet you should (in my experience) spray some WD40 into an oily rag and run the chain through the rag soaked with WD40. This will protect your chain from rust (and wipe off the worst of the external grime on the chain). WD40 contains anti-corrosion agents (ie anti-rust), penetration agents (ie for carrying the liquid into inaccessible spaces), water displacement agents (avoiding rust formation), agents for removing soil, AND it contains LUBRICATING OILS.

[@hyungwonieee4795]

@@LitNews hi if i spray WD-40 on my rusty bike is it permanent?

[@LitNews]

@@hyungwonieee4795 No. you will need to re-apply it from time to time, like any lubricant.

[@hyungwonieee4795]

@@LitNews okay thank youuu my bike wasn't use for abt 3yrs and it's rusty I'm planning to buy this WD-40 to remove it, btw what parts of bike where i shouldn't apply this? I'm scared it may affect something

[@RVingTheCountry]

Nice and thanks. I really didn’t know WD-40 wasn’t a lubricant. I’ll look it up now but thanks.

[@bekanav]

WD-40 is a lubricant

[@jeffhayes2288]

WD-40 isn't a lubricant. It does not protect your chain from wearing down. It only removes the rust on the chain. I've used it for years and only used WD-40. After 3 days of riding for about 20 miles, the chain goes back to a terrible condition. Sometimes the chain gets hard spots after the new WD-40 got ridden in for 20 miles. I don't keep care of my bikes, they are free junk bikes. That's why I don't use anything besides WD-40.

[@jeffhayes2288]

Just to be more clear, I have been riding for decades, not years. Also, that's riding about every three days.

[@AndruComedy]

WD-40 is half oil half mineral spirits (ethanol) so yes it is a lubricant but too thin for chains.

[@BPoweredLove]

I don't think this is correct.

[@Curling_Rack]

need a narrow brush to clean the crap on the chain ring, gap between the cog gears and jockey wheels

[@iksanisme]

Are we don't need to clean up the remaining fluid of WD40 with water or something before we starting to lubricate the chain?

[@RoadsideCycles]

Hey Iksan, not really, since we are cleaning only on the outside with the paper towel. A little bit of WD40 will not hurt the oil that you put on there later.

[@noggin7313]

That doesn't get all the grit out of the rollers just pushes it further in

[@whidbeyhiker4364]

This might be good for a between rides, quick clean and lube but it isn't going to replace a real cleaning like when you remove it and use one of the tried and true methods. I rode today, when I was done I hit it with some WD40 and applied some lube for tomorrows ride but that I will be cleaning it properly sometime next week.

[@brianbassett4379]

"WD-40 is hygroscopic and will attract moisture to gears of any type." This is why listening to people on youtube can be so dangerous. Most are so far off the mark that following their recommendations/suggestions can cause more problems than they can help. "Every couple of months..." is over 1600 miles for me. It's not about time it's about miles and the conditions you ride in. The 1st thing, and most important is to get a good bike chain tester and use it regularly. The only way you can know you aren't doing damage to the gears is by testing the chain to measure the stretch. The 2nd thing is to wash the chain with solvent when it's dirty, 100 miles on hard dry surfaces or 5-miles in the mud ya wash it when it needs it, you clean (wipe it down) it after every ride. My 1st chain went over 3000 miles before I realized it was badly stretched. I never had a clue, it never skipped a beat. What it did do was to wear the rear gear on the Rohloff Speed-hub to the point that it needed to be flipped over before it would mesh with the new chain. Don't use WD-40 to dispel water but rather use ACP-50. "Wash" the chain well in solvent (I use a park tool with Pedro's Pig Juice) and rinse with hot water and then immediately spray/coat well with ACP-50. Wipe the chain down and then apply T-9 and let dry. I get approx. 750 miles to a KMC X8.99 chain before replacing it. Chains are relatively cheap compared to replacing worn gears and are easily checked. 10 May 20 - 100 miles. www.relive.cc/view/vMv85EGzYNO photos.app.goo.gl/9ZbuKQNWsHtRH3Ft7 prnt.sc/sw0igi

[@brianbassett4379]

@danchoikhongten 39 We aren't talking about huffing.

[@genie5731]

.

[@brianbassett4379]

@@genie5731 At least you took a swing, Ms. M.

[@genie5731]

@@brianbassett4379 🤦‍♀️ swing and a miss lolol not sure what happened to the original comment but I meant to say thanks for the detailed tips!

[@brianbassett4379]

@@genie5731 Try ACP-50 for waterproofing and a rust preventative and T-9 to wax the chain. Stay safe Gina.

[@whatsup_viral]

Wiping chain doesn't remove dirt. Most of he dirt is inside the chain. So take the chain out and soak it in the degreaser or kerosine for 5 min and brush thoroughly .then boil chain in the water for ten minutes. Add some washing powder in it. Then put the chain in sunlight .when it is dry ,u can put in back to the cycle or bike. This method will clear the dirt completely

[@edwardhasiak7961]

Years ago I would soak my chain in gasoline and brush it. Let it dry then lube.

[@jeffhayes2288]

@ edward hasiak When gas was cheaper, I would do it your way. But not with today's gas prices.

[@tomy2t0ne3]

Chains are cheap. I have two chains for my bike with quick release chain link. I throw dirty chain in container to soak and pull a clean chain out of another container. It's quick.

[@moonlalune8003]

Good idea

[@MindDrip]

What do you soak them in?

[@tomy2t0ne3]

Mind Drip I followed this guy's video on cleaning and waxing chains works very well! kzbin.info/www/bejne/bp7IpGWEr9l0b5Y

[@RelentlessC2C]

Ironically, WD40 now have a range of bike specific cleaning and lube products, which is a sly admission that WD40 was never very good at cleaning and lubing bikes.

[@casualguy393]

I wouldn't say it was an admission of being inadequate. I think it was more of a "Let's appease those who doubt WD40's capability as a chain lubricant by tweaking then relabeling WD40'S formula to make more money."

[@chenoko]

Wd40 is more of a solvent. When I work on bottom brackets, I soak the bearings in wd40 overnight. Then clean them off with a heavy degreaser followed by a fresh water rinse. Then I apply the grease. Also a wd40 marine grade grease. The same can be applied to a chain except applying chain lubricant instead of grease.

[@cs1992]

More of an admission that there is more $$$$ to be made by marketing their product for a new segment of buyers

[@The1richman4u]

WD-40 is a better solvent than a lubricant. It dissolves rust, corrosion and any dirt that can be dissolved wish is why it is called a penetrating lubricant. I suspect that half of the effect of the paper towel looking dirtier is from the WD-40 dissolving the greasy, oily dirt and smearing it around the towel and secondly, dissolving it off of the chain surface. Then you have WD-40 getting in the rollers interfering with and dissolving the new lube.

[@RoadsideCycles]

Interesting perspective and while partly true, I have never seen any mechanic ONLY put WD40 on the chain and send the customer on their merry way. Usually it's cleaning with WD40 and then either wet or dry weather oil after the WD40 has dried out. Thanks for the comment

[@The1richman4u]

Actually, WS-40 does not rinse away effectively with water. What I find that works better at taking off dirt and old oil from a chain is 'brake parts cleaner' or 'paint prep' both of which are very effective as they clean quicker than WD-40 and then evaporate away leaving no residue to wash away. Carb and choke cleaner may also work this way. I tend to stay away from the bike chain cleaner sprays on the market since they are either nothing more than or very similar to a can of automotive degreaser which needs to be washed away and thoroughly dry afterwards. For a lubricant alternative after getting frustrated with the properties of both wet and dry bicycle lubes and the cost, I started using pneumatic tool oil as it is very thin and slippery and almost a perfect alternative to wet lube. It just doesn't have wintergreen flavor like tri-flow, finishline or frog lube but then who is the idiot that is sniffing or licking his chain anyway.

[@jeffhayes2288]

I have only used WD-40 on my chains for years. When I wipe the chain with a rag like he did in the video, it's worse than what his chain put on the towel.

[@LuCi2708]

how to clean disc brake

[@moonlalune8003]

Mix alcohol and water then use paper towel or clean rag to wipe it

[@dragosxtc5233]

you didn't pour it on the chain and let it soak in, you only cleaned it superficially on the outside. while it looks clean, it isn't.

[@RoadsideCycles]

Dragon - The whole point of it IS to clean it on the outside - that's where most of the wear occurs. If you soak the chain is WD40, then you take most of the grease out of the pins and rollers of the chain and it is very very difficult to get it back in there(factory inserts grease in there so you don't have excessive wear). Only way to get oil back inbetween the pins and rollers is teflon oil, but that one has a habit of leaking out really fast and thus without any lubrication your chain will wear out really fast. Thanks for the comment.

[@Drayken]

Bullshit. You're supposed to use degreaser to clean the ENTIRE chain, you can either use dedicated chain cleaners or put a brush on each side to sandwich the chain and then roll it through. Once you're done with degreasing you should always take a sponge with soapy water and remove any degreaser left on the chain after cleaning. Then, you dry the chain and apply wet or dry lubricant. Once that's done you can take a rag and remove the excess lubricant on the outside of the chain.

[@Tonyplat98]

or you can use paraffin wax which is even better for your chain

[@BPoweredLove]

Drayken No offense, but go fuck yourself.

[@manuelluis5456]

Dragos Xtc why not use acetone , instead ? Or tholuene ?

[@johnbess7320]

Thought

[@ChristoferB]

I've used W40 as degreaser AND lube for years and I ride 12-15 hours per week. It's just a myth that it doesn't work :-) Some will say that a W40 chain won't stay lubed for more than a few miles. This too is a myth. I've ridden countless centuries. Some will say that while it actually is an excellent lube, it can dissolve grease in bearings. This may very well be true, so I am careful in this regard. Will it wear your components quicker? Nope. Not at all. One little tip that also CGN Network points out is that if you use W40 as a lube, don't combine it with a regular degreaser. Merely use W40. Now I'm sure that some of you will say, wrong wrong, using W40 as lube is a horrendous crime!. I honestly can't be bothered to listen since I know it works... :-)

[@colinfraser369]

LOL no it's not a horrendous crime, and used very regularly it is a relatively effective lubricant. You just have to be careful how you use it in relation to a bike chain, de-greasing and lubrication for most products are two opposing goals but this makes it very simple use one product to de-grease and clean then re-lube with a second. Because WD40 is a penetrating oil that comes in an aerosol it will effectively drive out dirt and grime along with any old/spent lubricant which is great, but also because it comes in an aerosol it has very low viscosity which means it won't hang around as long as a proper chain lube with a higher viscosity hence the very regular requirement to prevent unnecessary chain wear. I'm pretty sure GCN advocated this as a quick post ride and wash routine not a thorough de-grease and lube. Which is how I would describe this video although it is very poorly done cleaning only the outside of the chain then only lubing some of the rollers! There are plenty one can can cleaners and lubes specifically designed for bike chains on the market now including one from WD40, make up your own mind how different it is from the traditional stuff, but seeing as the price isn't much different I would go for that given the choice.

[@ChristoferB]

Hi Colin, Indeed. All you say is correct, WD40 is viscous and not as durable as a chain oil. However because it is so easy to apply (Spray and wipe) I do it a couple of times per week and therefore never reach the stage where it dries out. If I were to do some form of mega ride of 2-300 miles, then I would use something else. That being said, I have done Tour of Flanders and the Dragon Ride without any problems. Colin, go to point 4:35 in this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6fdh4Wuoa6IgpI I agree with what Simon says. Just give it a try! Chris Ps. Yes, I know WD makes a bike specific version. I've just never seen one on the shelf and since the regular stuff works so well I haven't gone out of my way to get hold of it. Speaking of which, before WD40 introduced this line of bike specific products, they themselves said that WD40 was an excellent chain lube.

[@manuelluis5456]

It works . But it kills all my bearings in the rear cogs and in the chain ring .

[@danqodusk8140]

The CGN people are credible. They know of what they speak.

[@ChristoferB]

@@manuelluis5456 Hi Manuel, I always avoid spraying near the bottom bracket and the rear hub for that exact reason.

[@danshady09]

wd40 is a water displacing spray. I don't know why people use it as a cleaner, it'll leave an oily residue because opposite to what you said it contains petroleum based oils. If you want to clean your chain properly and be left with a completely dry and contaminate free surface use an appropriate solvent like brake cleaner or petrol or something.

[@cs1992]

Agree on brake cleaner. It's great at breaking down grease/oils. Next time I clean my chain/cassette I think I'll use the brake cleaner as a final "rinse" to make sure all water is removed before oiling the chain.

[@bessermt]

So rubbing back and forth multiple times takes off more than not moving the paper towel and WD40 makes no difference? This video sponsored by Brawny, the quicker picker upper.

[@manabiker]

You cleaned the outside of the chain, you shouldn't lube that part of the chain anyway, the parts that need the lube are inside the chain..

[@Ed-lz4jv]

@jens gernandt yeah he is stupid

[@johnki325]

I use goosefat to lubricate the chain, after 30 years chain still good.

[@hafwan5851]

Literal goose fat?sorry i havent heard any brand name like that in my short life

[@PolskiKabaret]

Good stuff 😂

[@Eraayzz]

Hey bro I sprayed wd40 on my disc brake now my hydraulic brakes are not working how do I dry the lubricant?

[@ryanw1284ryansrants]

This happened to me the other day. Use isopropyl alcohol to clean your rotors and pads. Mine immediately regained its felt pressure and stopping power.

[@jimstanley8139]

Agreed, isopropyl alcohol will also stop honking brakes in most instances and works well for cleaning the chain also.

[@gerardov9693]

ATUK You idiot!

[@gerardov9693]

ATUK Lol jk

[@Razorjaxx]

Throw the disc , and the pads away, it's hard to get rid of the oil in the pads , if the pads are contaminated there's nothing you can do

[@robevans8625]

I use wd40 to degrease the chain. spray liberally with a cloth behind the chain then run chain with cloth around it. its a very good degreaser which also when the solvents evaporate leaves a residue of light oil which then lubes the chain. i have tried wet lubes that attract dirt create a grinding paste and look awful. if your chain ever comes off its not pleasant to put back on. teflon dry lubes last no longer than wd40 and squirt wax lube clogs up the chain and rear derailleur and makes my chain rusty. why pay 5x the price for a bike lube when wd40 will do the job

[@cosmin_budda]

Does the WD40 apply and at the disk brakes?

[@FinWallman]

Noooooo God no I broke my rotors because I applied wd40 to them

[@FalconFlurry]

Putting WD-40 on the brake rotor is the worst thing you could possibly do

[@PriyanshGarewal]

after cleaning the chain with wd40 can i use normal oil for lubrication instead of any lube

[@josepha8759]

No, use a lube made for bike chains.

[@casualguy393]

WD40 works perfectly fine. I've been using it for over 40 years and have never had a problem using WD40.

[@monty6749]

Casualguy 939 I've had my bike for 2 months and it's my first so I don't know a lot about bike and it's a hybrid bike, and I don't know how to clean it, does putting WD-40 on the chain with nothing more work? Like I don't need any other lubricant or anything?

[@casualguy393]

As soon as I get every bike, I clean the chain really well right off the bat. Then, I spray it liberally with WD40 and rotate the cranks about 50 times. Then, I wipe off all of the excess WD40 (external) with a dry rag, and that is it. The reason I do that is because if you leave a heavy film of anything on your chain, the dirt will have something to stick to. After about 200-300 miles it gets a bit gunky but where I ride is only on the road or riverside where it is really clean. After logging those miles it is time for me to focus on the chain, so after a ride is finished, I'll put my bike on the stand, and spray WD40 on the chain while rotating it just to let it sit for about 20-30 minutes. I'll take a shower and come back to the bike. I'll spray more WD40 on the chain while rotating it again, and by that time all of the gunk is loose and just dripping off. Then I will wipe the chain with a dry rag and that is it. No soap, no water, no cleaner, no special lubes, no special cleaning tools... nothing. For corrosion to happen, you need water. Since WD stands for "Water Displacement", as long as your chain has WD40 on it then it is almost impossible to rust, corrode or bind because water won't stick to it. Others will tell you that you need to spend money on special lubes, cleaners or other stuff, and in all honesty, Paraffin wax lubes will save you (scientifically proven) about 3 watts over using WD40 on your chain. But for my money, time and effort, WD40 is the way to go

[@monty6749]

Casualguy 939 thanks

[@girishchandrachaubey8238]

Hi

[@retroonhisbikes]

How not to remove dirty from a chain. You have simply created a chain with grinding paste in the rollers. Gonna increase wear.

[@mohamedkh5974]

Thanks 😊 you are the best

[@mrsax77]

I remove my chain and put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with purple power and water. After cleaning .....I dip it in melted Molten wax and soak it till it the air bubbles cease.. hang it wipe it and install it. No more chain tattoos and runs suer quiet.

[@rterry2752]

chains are $35, everybody talks about lube like they are $350

[@wasabiajaponica5564]

I did that with my bike ... now i have a stealth bike.

[@ddrusa]

What up with the fast video editing I see on every video every one does that to

[@Stunl3y]

Use petrol ,take chain off put it in a container with petrol and clean thoroughly rinse and lube , chain will be spotless

[@chicanoforever9005]

GOOD VISEO BRO!!!

[@jonathan___4684]

You're spraying WD-40 with your disk brakes right behind!!! Ahhhhhhhhhhh

[@Giove83]

Jonathan O.P I made that mistake once. I’ll never do it again I was squeaking for months lol

[@rinonhoxha4059]

@@Giove83 ....you can use Vinegar to clean the brakes and discs from the impurities that cause squeak.

[@wangdangdoodie]

What on earth is the point of cleaning the outside of a chain?!

[@stuartlittle2778]

Not a good idea spraying towards the disc, even the mist off the spray can screw your brakes and pads up😐

[@veyolaski4324]

yeah, it happened to my friend's mountain bike when he sprayed the wd 40 on the brakes and it stuffs the brakes.

[@nickolaismith]

Most people that don't know about Rock N Roll Gold Lube will use WD-40 and something else to lube their chain. It's too bad most don't know about the best to use...

[@casualguy393]

Ive been using WD40 for over 40 years and have never had a chain fail. Please tell me why WD40 isnt good.

[@nickolaismith]

For speed. It's not for causing harm to the chain. Take a look at the results here kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5rRe52YbcShe9U

[@nickolaismith]

For speed not for causing harm. Search KZbin for the video "How to save 30 watts of drivetrain losses using only your chain! aka Friction Science in 8 steps" and there is a chart that explains it.

[@casualguy393]

I watched it, and the video says how to save 30 watts, but the first 12 watts saved was the difference between a clean or dirty chain, which WD40 does do. So those 12 watts don't count. The next 5 watts was simple about buying a quality chain, and had nothing to do with WD40. So those 5 watts dont count either. The next 4 watts were about chain length, and had nothing to do with WD40, so those 4 watts also cant be attributed to some inadequacy of WD40. The next 3 watts was about cross chaining, and again cant be attributed to WD40, so those 3 also dont count. Number 5 on the list was about chain tolerance saving 2 watts. As you can guess, this has nothing to do with WD40. Chain wear is 2 watts, (6th on the list) concerns stretching of the chain and the uploader suggests changing the chain at 4000-5000km is also not about WD40. Finally we got something that WD40 concerns. Chain deep clean is 7th on the list, and it is for 1-2 watts. WD40 doesn't really do a deep clean at the uploader suggests, but with regular spraying I doubt there is going to be a serious buildup of gunk. Lastly we get to the lube, which is number 8 saving "4-5 watts". The chart at 6:59 on the video you listed shows WD40 at 7.1 watts lost, and the very best wax the uploader recommends (paraffin wax) at about 4.8 watts lost. Here comes the important part. What does all this mean? 7.1 watts lost with WD40, and 4.8 watts lost with Paraffin Wax means a total of 2.3 watts difference between WD40 and Paraffin. I dont know how much paraffin wax costs or how difficult it is to apply, nor do I know how long it lasts between applications. I heard something about removing the chain, heating the wax and applying it, then reinstalling the chain and waiting before riding your bike. That's a lot of steps and isn't as easy or economical than WD40. Don't spend your money on the hype braddah. For 2.3 watts I'll shave my face stubble before my ride, trim 1 more centimeter off the overhang of my brake cables near the brakes and wax my spokes once a year ;)

[@nickolaismith]

My comment was solely about Rock N Roll Gold Lube and WD-40. The chart refers to the difference between them. All of the other watts mentioned don't apply when comparing methods of using a lube. I don't ever plan on using Paraffin Wax which is why I didn't comment on it. As you mentioned the hassle in using it seems to be a lot of steps.

[@finarollerz]

This would be a last resort.

[@Imcrikee]

Next time, instead of paper towels, use sand paper.

[@stephanblack4558]

Never use paper towel.

[@stinkyfungus]

Use a park chain cleaner, use a degreasing solution in it. Or remove chain and use a direct bath (ultrasound or just agitate) Use an air compressor to blow degreaser and remaining contaminants out of the chain. Rinse chain with dawn and water. Blow out with air compressor again. When chain is 100% dry, lube with lubricant of choice. (I use squirt wax based emulsion, did not care for rock n' roll, finish line wet, finish line dry, white lightning,)

[@pabloalbertolopez3909]

Hola a mí parecer mecánicamente estás haciendo mal la limpieza de cadena primero y principal no se usa wd40 para nada que te ha que ver con la mecánica de bici porque no es un buen producto segundo para hacer una buena limpieza de cadena hay que limpiar toda la transmisión, platos, piñones, roldanas de pata de cambio y cadena completa usando productos desengrasantes y biodegradables luego lavando con agua, secando todo con aire y luego lubricar la cadena con lubricantes a base de cerámica que evitan el polvo y la suciedad consejo de mecánico argentino de bicis de competición espero que mi opinión no moleste abrazo grande

[@c1bav]

never use the wd40 on you shocks they will destroy your seals.

[@erhanhazar176]

diesel is the best degreaser for bike chain, wd40 is not recommended.

[@saymyname218]

Interesting Erhan.....got me thinking (y)

[@kabilang4921]

Diesel is best for cleaning, but WD 40 removes all rust, as it is rust penitrant, removes excessive oil from the chain in case you apply more wet lube on the chain. WD means Water Displacement.

[@casualguy393]

I've been using WD40 for over 40 years, and it is never failed me. Who the fuck told you WD40 isnt good for chains?

[@casualguy393]

If you spend more than $30 for a specialized lubricant to save 2.3 watts then you are an idiot.

[@howelrio7724]

@John Smith its been 5 months and i see this idiot. Wd40 have a variety of products they havr chain lube too. Dumbo

[@roblowe9796]

As others have said, this is a totally pointless exercise. It will make the outside of the chain cleaner so may look better but is not cleaning the bearing surfaces or preventing you getting much and grit on jockey wheels or gears. A chain needs to be cleaned with one of the rotating brush devices to get as much muck off as possible in between the links regardless of your views on whether WD40 is any good or not. I always clean the jockey wheels and gear rings too as that's where a lot of muck can collect.

[@thediscoman2001]

How not to Clean your drive-train use wd40

[@HiTecHoBo]

No, no, no not wd-40, it’s will reduce the viscosity and protection of your new lubricant. Oil attracts contaminates, use wax

[@HarmonicResearch]

WD-40 is a great cleaner when sprayed on and a great lubricant after the volatile hydrocarbons evaporate, leaving a thick grease inside the roller axles where ordinary grease can't go. Best to wipe the chain outside to prevent dirt pick-up. In the hot sun, WD-40 will be grease in a few days.

[@bohickity]

I tried the WD-40 and all it did was clean the surface. I then used it with a brush and it made a big mess. No matter how I cleaned it up and wiped it of the chain slung oil for weeks. WD-40 has gone into the bicycle products division because cyclists are so anal retentive about their chains. I’m going back to Dawn detergent and a brush. I use a dry lube and a syringe with a a 22ga needle and it takes 1 ml of lube to get each roller. I think ATF would work great, you don’t see transmissions failing all the time.

[@robevans8625]

wd40 will not sling oil for weeks???? the original version anyway

[@philipanderson4673]

...unless you have an old Ford ha ha ha ha ha

[@johnbess7320]

Omg nm

[@dreasmom2789]

I like this video. I'm not a hater but usually men's videos are to the point but women's videos prattle on. Thank you

[@SuperBigchain]

Annddd uhhmmmm...

[@dbarless]

Don't ever use plain WD40 on a chain, it will leak into the pins and accumulate dirt and other gunk. There's a reason that chain-specific cleaners and lube exist. Dry lubes don't attract dirt. Ceramic wax lubes are even better and provide lower maintence.

[@robevans8625]

wd40 is a dry lube

[@redbertiethechampion1863]

Bullshit! WD40 works great!

[@LitNews]

Incorrect. WD40 is a lubricant. It also contains penetrating, de-soiling, water displacement agents, and anti-corrosion agents. Ideal for chains!

[@Ryedady]

Not really a good way to clean a bike, should be using non shedding rags not paper towels, should also be using a brisel brush to clean inside of chain and deep around the roller pins. Cleaning the top outside of the chain is completely worthless waste of time. Once PROPERLY cleaned it should be thoroughly rinsed with water or preferably soapy water to remove residue, once completely dry it should then be properly lubricated. Also if wd40 gets into a sealed chain or hub it will eat the grease inside it's best to use a water based non toxic kitchen/household type degreaser, I have used wd40 but only as worse case scenario and it was immediately rinsed off with soap, water and a rag. Acetone is a very good chain degreaser as well. its miss information like this video that makes me hate that anyone can post anything on the internet. Really this video should say how to not clean your bike.

[@tingowealeans5712]

'Once PROPERLY cleaned it should be thoroughly rinsed with water or preferably soapy water' I keep reading that dish soap is a no no due to the salt in them. Bike manufactuers say so on the websites. What's your thoughts on this please?

[@alltimeproductions3749]

WD40 will make your chain Rusty as hell if you spray WD-40 on your bicycle chain and let it sit outside for one week it will be solid rust

[@kerryblueher3147]

WD-40 is a 30 to 90 day indoor corrosion inhibitor! If you chain sits outside and no rain or dew it will be just the same as day 1. Keyboard experts spread ignorance and stupidity.

[@robevans8625]

wd40 prevents rust

[@sifuerik]

WD 40 inhibits rust corrosion!!!!

[@edgaralmanza8952]

Mal todo, eso no es para bicicleta y mucho menos para limpiar...

[@Joshfortian15]

Chain check like butt wipe