Cleaning and Calibrating Central Tool Co. Micrometer Precision Measurement for the Vevor Mini Lathe

[@Immolate62]

Enjoyed the video, Deez. I have no tools from my father or grandfather, but it's satisfying to see you honor yours devoting so much time.

[@deezworkshop]

Thanks, I appreciate the work my dad did more than I could have without getting into machining. Appreciate you watching.

[@aceroadholder2185]

If you have an unfamiliar micrometer be sure to find out how to disassemble, adjust, and reassemble it before you start. It will prevent you from making a mess or even worse, damaging the micrometer. As shown in the video for this style micrometer the thimble is adjusted to the spindle to set zero. Many manufacturers have micrometers that set zero by turning the barrel in the frame (e.g. Starrett & Mititoyo). Others, like Lufkin for example, adjust the thimble to the spindle but have a spring loaded 2 piece nut assembly that must be compressed to get the plot put back together. If you try to force it without knowing the trick the nut will be ruined. Use instrument oil (e.g. Starrett Instrument Oil) if available. Avoid oils like 3-in-1 as they thicken as the volatiles evaporate away. Don't over oil the micrometer. A drop for the threads and a drop for the spindle is plenty. Don't use acetone on any measuring instrument. It cleans too well. It will dissolve painted features and will fog plastic covers and lenses on things like dial indicators instantly. Besides mineral spirits I like to use naphtha (Ronsonal lighter fluid). A quart from the hardware store lasts for ages and a refilled lighter fluid squirt bottle will put a few drops of naphtha where you need it. Unlike mineral spirits, naphtha evaporates quickly for an easier clean up. Cheers from NC/USA

[@deezworkshop]

Thanks for sharing the advice. I did look to see if I could find a manual or some documentation on this micrometer on central machinery’s site but there was nothing about this model. In the end I knew it wasn’t reading accurately so I wanted to try and improve it. I’ll have to pick up some proper lubricant for micrometers. I like the lighter fluid tip as well. Thanks for watching.

[@robertharper8776]

Thank you for the video enjoyed watching you learn. Tore my first one down 50 years ago haven't forgotten what I went through before I got it wright

[@deezworkshop]

Thanks. I have this urge to see how things work. Learned A lot in the process. Thanks for watching.

[@bradley7723]

I've used Remington ( the gun company ) cleaning solvent, it gently cleans with no rusting issues. For lightly oiling I use Remington gun oil and a Q tip to apply. It's equal to machine oil, very light. Great video, have fun with your projects. 😊

[@deezworkshop]

great tips. Gun oil and solvents are good to clean these up. I actuall have some more Mics to clean up and a large caliper to get cleaned up. Will be a nice winter project.mThanks for watching.

[@fristlsat4663]

Something I have heard from multiple sources is that micrometers should not be stored closed. Multiple reasons have been given from trapping moisture or contaminants between the spindle and the anvil can cause corrosion to the pressure on the threads from leaving them closed can cause wear. I don't have any real evidence or authoritative source, but I also tend to trust my predecessors when they have learned much more than me from training and experience. Anyway, my micrometers that fully close I always store with a slight gap between the operating surfaces. You definitely used enough oil when you put that back together. Generally speaking, for surface like the spindle and other non-wear surfaces you can wipe the oil all off with a clean rag and there will be enough oil left on the surface to protect it. On threads you want to be careful wiping it, so you don't leave rag fibers on the threads, but a drop of oil is sufficient. On parts that fit together like your thimble locking taper rings you don't actually want excessive lubrication, it will make it tend to slip and lose adjustment. Just wiping those with the same rag you wiped the excessive oil off the spindle with is plenty. I have found with rear locking micrometers like that (Of the ones that I own, some Brown and Sharpe, some Scherr Tunico, some Craftsman, and I think my Mitutoyo, actually most of them that aren't Starrett) It is quickest for me to calibrate them by closing them with the ratchet lock or friction thimble, so the tension is correct, then lock the micrometer, then unscrew the back end and adjust the zero. If I close it after I take the thimble apart I have trouble closing it with the same tension that the ratchet or friction mechanism does. You did manage to disassemble and reassemble it without getting the twist lock misaligned. The locking mechanism is usually the fussiest part of micrometer for me to put back together, and from the micrometers I have seen on eBay with locks missing I think I am not the only one.

[@deezworkshop]

I definitely oiled it too much. I’ll have to clean that up a bit. I never store them closed. I always back off a small gap. 5-10 thou or so. I’ll try the calibration using the lock. I should have thought of that. Next time I’ll use a microfiber or non fibrous rag to work with them. Totally understand the impact of dust and fibers. If a sheet of paper is 4 thou a fiber or dust can easily distort things by 1-2 though. Thanks for the tips.

[@mattholden5]

I think you just transcended to real machinist. You're becoming very aware of extremely small changes. Your hand motions seem have become acutely radially sensitive to things fingers can feel but are too small for most eyes to see. There will likely be a follow on lesson in this same vane... planar surfaces can show features you can see but are too small to feel. As an observer into your journey through something I also experienced, this was fun.

[@deezworkshop]

Thanks. I continue to gain confidence in what I can do and keep trying new things. Thanks for watching.