The components of these lathes are terrible. Doesnt surprise me about the potentiometer. If you wanted my opinion about Precision Matthews I would definitely consider them. I have the Mill and love it. No comparison in quality and support from the reseller. Good luck and thanks for watching.

Pretty Cool short. Great way to use the lathe. Nice work.

Thank for sharing your experience with your Vevor Lathe. I have had fun with this machine.

My next machine will be bigger for sure, I will upgrade from this one someday. For now I want to keep using the one I have and get a few more years out of it. I would love something that I can change gears for threading automatically. a DRO would be nice too. :-) Cheers and thanks for watching. I am learning to appreciate that saying more and more. Buy once, Cry once. :-)

:-)

I like this idea, Great thinking outside the box. I love these kinds of comments for others looking at the same challenges. Cheers from the Midwest US, I am Fond of our Neighbors up North. My wife was born in Canada and lived in Nanaimo for a few years duringher early childhood years. Thanks for watching.

This is pretty good advice, I would agree that if you find a used Chinese mini Lathe it is likely very seldom used. Trust me when I say after the first few uses the machine will be oily and dirty anyway. Completely, Those are magic words indeed. "Made in Taiwan" certainly add to the $$$ though. I know some of the PM Machines are made in Taiwan, the smaller cheaper ones are from China.

If I had to do it all over again, Knowing how much I actually use the lathe I would have saved up and spent the additional money on a better brand...I just didnt know. Regardless I dont regret the purchase, It works and Im having fun and if I didn't just get one like this I likely wouldn't have gotten in to the hobby at all. I was at a time in my life I needed something to occupy my free time and get my mind off work. I wasn't depressed or anything like that just needed "more" if that makes sense.

I agree. It’s not a ram dimm or anything that would be a chip. Daughter board would be a better description. Easy to replace regardless if you can source one and needed to. Goal with this kind of video is to let people know they shouldn’t be afraid to investigate an issue before tossing in the garbage and replacing, sometimes a fix is easy. Thanks. Cheers.

lol. Yeah. Connections were janky. I’m sure the humidity and moisture from changing seasons didn’t help. but it is also easy enough to replace. I thought I’d share if anyone was curious what’s inside and if they wanted to tackle it themselves. Funny support response. 😂

Thats a good suggestion, I did attempt to file som slots in the gib to let it sit lower but that didnt work well. I was planning on putting new dimples or clipping it over but at the time I had an awesome viewer who offered to mill me a new Gib. It worked our fantastic and has been good ever since. No like you I have had other issues to overcome but thats part of the fun. Definitely need to know you WILL have issues buying these cheap min lathes but they are fun to use. I am a few days from my 2 year anniversary of posting my first Mini Lathe video...Learned a lot since I started. Thanks for watching and the advice.

Thanks, I will update my notes about having some vinegar on hand. I dont have any lead to use so I used a scrap of aluminum. for my next attempt I will improve the materials I am using. I will try to source some lead in the meantime. I have seen it done with lead and aluminum...who knows I just need to find something that works for me. Appreciate the comments and thanks for watching.

Thanks. I’m aware of caswell but didn’t go too deep researching their products due to costs. I am hopefully I can accomplish this on the cheap. I appreciate the direction, I will check out their how to video for further guidance. I was a little nervous about all the chemicals as well but trying to be as safe as I can with it all. I will be trying another attempt whe I get a bench top power supply to control my current better. Cheers and thanks for watching.

I’m really glad I put this out there. The advice I’m getting is priceless to me and it has renewed my interest in tackling this anodizing sooner than later. Appreciate it and you watching.

Comments about safety will never be overlooked. I do make mistakes and am always trying to improve and be more safe. I will make mistakes in the future as will other hobbyists but I hope others see this warning and take it to heart. Thanks for watching.

I do think it washes some of the dye off and reduces the intensity of the color but my understanding is its about the dye itself. I think it needs to be "set" by boiling it in water. Maybe the boiling water melts the dye or some how changes it state so that it is more stable. I am no expert but it appears the boiling water step helps seal and fill any remaining porous material. Here is a link to WAY too much information about it all. lol but a snipit from it is this... Historically, sealing had been predominantly carried out in deionized/distilled water at high temperatures (close to 100 °C); a practice that is still popular today. The efficacy of hot-water sealing treatment is based on its ability to promote hydration of the porous aluminum oxide and barrier layers, producing a crystalline hydrate phase (boehmite) which fills the pores. finishingandcoating.com/index.php/anodizing/1220-the-sealing-step-in-aluminum-anodizing

One of the most widely accepted methods of sealing anodic coatings is by hydration of the anhydrous coating. This can be done with a simple immersion of the component in hot deionized (DI) water, which, at the proper temperature, pH, and immersion time, will hydrate the coating.

@@fasturn-fc2of This is great input thank you!

The vibrations are there from what I did but not until I hit between 800 and 1000 RPMS. Overall it was an acceptable modification for my uses. If I had a milling machine with DRO at the time I could have drilled and tapped the holes more precisely abd make it a bit more balanced but overall I am satisfyed with my modifications and would recommed it. I did end up adding some set/grub screws in the unused holes to help blance things out. it did help but its not perfect. Overall very usable and was a good solution for my needs. Good luck and thanks for watching.

@@deezworkshop Thanks for posting the video. theres not much info out there so this helps a ton. That's still pretty impressive, those are fast speeds. I came across another video by this user seeigecannon who balanced his chuck using a dial indicator to measure the vibrations of his lathe and then placed a magnet on different spots of the chuck circumference that either made the vibrations worse or non existent. Sort of like balancing a car tire. Heres the link if you want to check it out kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJTKk3p3r8Z2rJo

I will check it out. Overall my 4-jaw is quite useful. Maybe i got lucky :-) Thanks for sharing and if you tackle this , good luck. For the life of me I dont understand why noone manufactures a 125mm 4-jaw chuck with a 3 hole mounting patten for these lathes. I could not find one anywhere.

Thanks for your words of encouragement. You have me motivated to get back on this sooner than later. My plan is to get a benchtop power supply to control current better than using the battery charger. I googled "Break free water cleaning" and now know what thats all about. I wonder if my splotchy spots were from a bad surface cleaning. I will give all those pointers a try. I think this is a really cool way to finish aluminum parts and I am confident I will get it right in time. Thanks for the comments and I appreciate you watching. Cheers.

Platers say if you can clean a part, you can plate it ! Very important to be water break free. Most are using sodium hydroxide at 140f to clean / light etching before anodize. We used about 18 volts. After anodizeing hot water dip for 3- 5 minutes will seal the part. Makes it dry faster too. I use other baked coating instead, because of all the chemicals you have to maintain. Just fun watching you do it at home. Most think it's like paint.....easy !! Not at all. Good luck, just don't use those skinny wires. Ohms law, you need lots of current. 😊

Loving all your responses. Taking notes. Thanks much. I will nail this down.

These are great points to add. Admittedly my technique’s weren’t as precise as I could have done. I probably should have focused a bit more on that aspect of making these. It doesn’t matter for what I made them for but it’s always good to try to achieve precision if you can. Something I have not been great about. I appreciate the comments and thanks for watching. Oh yeah I have learned a lot from Blondies videos. She has a lot of great content. Cheers

@@deezworkshop Don't be too hard on yourself. That's likely one of the reasons why I don't play around anymore, myself. Not everything needs to be perfect. Thank you for making videos and sharing these online for free.

@@jwrm22 at this point all I’m doing is having fun with this hobby and continuing to improve as time goes on. I enjoy sharing the videos and am glad many are finding them entertaining if not helpful. Cheers and thanks for watching.

Thanks, Funny you mention that, I was just looking at the mill table feed attachment from PMs site yesterday. It is likely a sooner than later purchase. Cheers and thanks for watching.

Thanks, I need to educate myself on the types of plastics and hardnesses. Lot to learn there. This material was much harder than the curring board type of material. Locking nuts would really help with those jacks. I need to improve them for sure. I think I will put some flats on them as well so I can snug them down with a wrench as needed. Cheers, Thanks for watching. Hope you are well and had a great Holiday weekend.

My shop space has really come together, The addition of the Yard barn to get the outdoor tools outside has really helped. You can make a nice workshop in any space you have...just need to get creative in some situations. I have been incorporating more close up shots in the latest content. The GoPro doesnt do well with anything closer than 12 inches and really is good at outdoor shots. The bigger issue with it is it overheats very quickly and shuts down. Really kills the momentum during certain recording sessions. Not been happy with it for what im doing. I actually use the iphone for my closeup shots and it does really well. I may upgrade my phone and switch to using it mostly. Thanks for the feedback, and I really am digging my workshop space now. Cheers

Thanks, These are a great fun little project for anyone getting started with a Mill. End up with a very useful tool as well.

I think its delrin but could also be UHMW or some variation. Honestly I am not quite sure. Some of the plastics are harder and more rigid and some are certainly more flexible and softer. This is an area I need to educate myself on.

:-) yeah it made a huge mess, I tried to vacuum often...lol

:-) I always think of Gronk when I hear that. lol

Thank you. I was really hesitant to put this out. Absolutely no pressure to anyone on this. Just an avenue for people if they want to contribute but is not necessary at all. Cheers from the 🇺🇸

I will record the process when I decide to tackle it. I have learned this particular one is kind of defective where you can get inconsistent readings. I will record the process and share all those details soon.

Got your Email from Dave, I will email you shortly. Very kind and generous.

@@deezworkshop happy to do it, I will also include a few other things that you should be able to use.

Email sent. Feel free to email me anytime.

As far as I know there is no such manual. The manual that came with mine is for a MX200/210 and beside that there are no parts breakdown or part list in it anyway. I am in the process of tearing apart my headstock. I was going to get into the spindle bearings but I dont think those are my issue. At the moment I dont plan to tear into that to find a parts number but If I have to get back in there I will certain have a video on it wiht the part numbers and all. There are smaller bearing in another pulley that I am replacing , they are standard roller skate or skateboard bearings, Bearing number 608-Z but that won't help you, I measured my OD of my spindle and it came out to around 51.79mm so a much larger set of bearings would be required. Dont take that measurement as anything accurate only an estimate. Good luck and as I said I will share those details if I have to get into those bearings. If you truly need to replace the bearings start tearing into it and get the bearing number off the ones you have. That would be the next step. Good luck.

Oxtools and I also did a video on lapping using aluminum foil on the plate with diamond paste you should watch works great! Soon I know Deez will show it also.

Cheers, I'll have a look👍👌🇦🇺

I will be working with it soon. Appreciate the details about doing squareness comparisons. I will be starting my lapping tests soon. Going to start wtih glass first and aluminum, then move over to the surface plate if that goes well. I agree diamond dust on the granite plate would impact it but I am going to take it slow and try to prevent that. If I am careful it should work out. who knows though :-)

@@deezworkshop wicked mate, can't wait to see the tests. What I meant was you will have to make up a lapping plate, grab a bit of ally or steel, cut some grooves in it then lap it flat with 220/600 grit silicon carbide paper on your granite(face up with the paper). Then your paste goes on the plate(it will need to be re lapped flat occasionally, it is a sacrificial surface) to lap whatever you want. Anything that diamond paste touches will wear down a tiny bit. It'll be fine, but do be mindful of it. When you see people doing granite surface plate restoration, they use a hardened roller to "charge" the cast iron lap with diamond dust, flip the lap over and start the cutting. Diamond rips the granite flat again. Enjoy your first go at lapping, it'll be fun👍👌🇦🇺

Actually that was someone else, He is a busy person and I dont hear from him often, I hope he is doing well, but his help early on was what allowed me to get right into the hobby with success using the compound. It was about the same time Dave was contacting me with advice and knowledge as well. Dave certainly could have made the replacement gib, heck he made my 72 tooth gear and it works excellent.

I answered your previous post. While I don’t use the 0XA tool post any longer, I just pulled it out and put a 1/2 inch carbide tool in one of the tool holders and it fits. I only used 3/8 inch tools but it appears to hold half inch as well. The tooling is bigger than the holder but it fits. I have since upgraded to AXA size and love it. AXA tool holders will also accommodate 1/2 tooling. I have videos on that if you are interested. Cheers.

10-4 thanks tons to learn gonna Bing watch your channel later :)

@@jobehayes8444 Excellent, I hope you find something useful. The content should improve as they progress from release date. Post a comment if you have any questions. I had and still have tons to learn. The community here has been very helpful. Cheers

Well I don’t use this tool post any longer but I still have it. I just pulled it out and put a 1/2 inch carbide tool in one of the tool holders and it fits. I only used 3/8 inch tools but it appears to hole half inch as well. The tooling is bigger than the holder but it fits. I have since upgraded to AXA size and love it. I have videos on that if you are interested. Cheers.

I’ll be working with lapping soon. Thanks for the suggestion for these game pieces. I didn’t think to try lapping them. Doh! lol. Cheers.

It is. I have to tackle this issue soon. I’m sure it’s bearings. Probably my next task. I do like that scissor knurler. Should have gotten it long ago.