Clever ideas for clamping and edge-gluing flat panels

[@StumpyNubs]

When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Bora/Portamate: amzn.to/2XByXhw Video about biscuit joiners► kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpTHg5iHmrhsiZY

[@rodrigobarbabosa572]

Could you give us a link to the clamps you use on this video?

[@StumpyNubs]

Bora: amzn.to/2XByXhw

[@StumpyNubs]

The ratchet clamps: amzn.to/2WzDnaH

[@rodrigobarbabosa572]

Thanks!

[@gateway1600]

I use a Porter Cable "classic" chrome trim saw with a 4.5 inch Forest WWII trim saw blade and a guide made from a 4 ft section of composite pre finished flooring with a poplar edge guide. I get friction free, glass smooth cuts on all sheet goods. Saw is 20 yrs old with blade that never seems to get dull...

[@Squashmalio]

Stumpy Nubs is several orders of magnitude better than every other woodworking channel out there.

[@NomenNescio99]

The rubber bands, pure genius, it's astronomical amounts of profanity that the exact same situation has provoked from me without rubber bands

[@harrykoppers209]

Go to the big box store and sort through the crappy whitewood studs. Betcha you'll find several cauls with a variety of curves.

[@joearbuckle817]

I have got to the point where when I have a woodworking question, I fire up KZbin and see what Stumpy has to say on the subject. I’m rarely disappointed. Thanks for the guidance. You’re a good man.

[@alanmatthews9260]

Painter’s tape - genius

[@nostrilnick]

Man, I wish I'd watched this video before making my son's desk.

[@sisyphushappyxvx]

The rubber band trick made this video worth watching all on its own! Thanks!

[@AB-nu5we]

Answering the caul as always. Nice tips. 😊

[@tonyknightsecreto8338]

Yeah this is what I needed to know about because talk about your bad habits I would probably wait and use to cut this wood down to use in small peaces thanks coach !😢😅🐸thanks tk

[@cyrilnorrie8450]

Thanks for another info-packed tutorial. This will come in handy when I make up some panels. You're the best!

[@darrylportelli]

The rubber band trick is so simple yet genius !!! 😊

[@stevenrayhoward]

Awesome! Best tutorial on caul making I've seen here on "the tube." Holes over the seams! Of course! Perfect! Built up paper painters tape? Another awesome... the last method (cutting a curve) is all I ever considered or used. Your post has provided me withh knowledge to become even better at amateur woodworking! Thanks James (Stumpy).

[@californiadaze]

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us! The blue tape method of creating a crown is so helpful.

[@HowlinWilf13]

Go ahead and draw your line like that, but then plane it down to the line by hand, checking for square as you do it. That's the sort of activity that makes woodworking a pleasure, in my opinion.

[@ARepublicIfYouCanKeepIt]

James, I'm a huge proponent of Bora's WTX Clamp Edge System. I have all edge lengths, as well as circular saw plate and router dado jig. Best of all, the saw plate also works with Bora's Rip Guide, which I also have. This is the best of all worlds for safely, accurately and quickly breakdown sheet goods; both rips and cross cuts. Not to mention affordably! I always use rigid foam board insulation as a "spoil board"; fully supporting the fibers of the lower face, resulting in perfect cuts every time.

[@totallynotabot151]

How does it compare to Kreg's system?

[@ARepublicIfYouCanKeepIt]

@@totallynotabot151 I chose Bora's system after trying the Kreg Accu-cut. While the idea of the Accu-cut is good, I found the actual product to be useless. After several attempts at accurate cuts, it went back to the store. I'm generally a Kreg Tool fan, so I was disappointed that their product didn't work as anticipated. It's important to understand that Bora's offering aren't like a track saw guide that lays on the cut line. These are edge guide systems, so you have to add the blade offset to the measurement. With that said, I wouldn't want to have to work without my WTX Clamp Edge System. After many years of searching for an affordable alternative to Festool's pricey products, I finally found what I was looking for.

[@totallynotabot151]

@@ARepublicIfYouCanKeepIt Thank you for your thoughtful reply. I have tried Accu-cut in the past and quite liked it, precisely because I could place it on the cut line.Haven't tried Bora yet..

[@W1ldt1m]

The fastest easiest way to cut the curved cauls is with your hand plane: Mark the center of your caul. Then plane the last four inches of one end, about two passes. Then two passes on the last eight inches, then 12,16 etc until you get to the center Then flip and do the other end. Makes a nice even curve in less time than it takes to get the tape out.

[@SandBoxJohn]

I have made several as long as 6 feet using a Jointer. In the shops I worked in they were primary used to glue and clamp hardwood edges to sheet good panels.

[@TommyArianoutsos]

I use the hand plane method as well. Very easy

[@stephanholland6181]

Real nice set of clamps! I like the rubber bands too. Good video.

[@felixreali7101]

anyone know the brand name of those clamps?

[@leehaelters6182]

Never mind the notches. Best way of dealing with glue squeeze out is packing tape; neatest, quickest application and most glue rejecting material easily available. Pays to use the thickest, widest high quality clear stuff, rather than the cheesy brown. When Richard Buck at our shop in Boston’s South End came up with that one, it was a major “Doh!” moment.

[@StumpyNubs]

"Another way of dealing with squeeze out..." - There, I fixed it for you. You'll find that there are always several ways to do something, all with their own pros and cons. You're point is more likely to be heard if you avoid saying things like "Never mind what you do, MY way is best."

[@leehaelters6182]

Stumpy Nubs, begging your pardon, offense unintended.

[@StumpyNubs]

@@leehaelters6182 - No problem :)

[@espressotom]

I don't know if this has been mentioned before. All my cauls have blue tape on the edge that comes in contact with the panel. I have used paste wax on the blue tape so it does not stick to the panel or the glue makes clean up real nice and I don't have to notch the calls where the seams are. Thank you very much you have absolutely awesome videos I watch them all the time. I even watch some a second or third time. Keep up the great work I've learned more from your videos than I have just about any other woodworking video.

[@dougblazer1376]

Thanks for the video.I have been struggling with this problem and I welcome the solution. By the way why is it that no matter how good a video is there are always a small group of people who give a thumbs down?

[@StumpyNubs]

People love to be critical of others. It's human nature. I can make a video full of babies playing with puppies and I'll still get thumbs-downs and nitpicky comments from some folks.

[@philipbyrnes7501]

Sheer brilliance mate. I’ve only ever made my cauls by planing down on each side and thus left with either a permanent caul or, as usually happens, a thinner piece of wood. Your idea of using blue tape to achieve the same result is truly brilliant. Thank you so much mate, once again you’ve shown how clever you are and how grateful I am that you share your knowledge and wisdom, thank you

[@stevenrayhoward]

Oh yeah, rubber bands...Yes! I totally forgot to comment on the use of rubber bands, of course! Duh! So many times I've struggled to keep cauls from moving on me while setting up the clamps. Awesome!

[@Mr_Rick]

Thanks for sharing. Good info. Good instruction.

[@jlmfoy365]

Hi James, those tips were absolutely brilliant, many thanks. Regards Jim UK.

[@kennyb4871]

Good ideas for creating the pre-load in the Cauls. Appreciate the tape idea. Always a wealth of knowledge my friend. As for the "Track" saw from Bora. IF you have the ability to bend their ear.....you might want to mention they should really think about creating a base to accommodate a Worm-drive saw. I can promise there are more Skil model 77 out there than any other single make of saw on the market. I have to make some rather long tapers, and looking for something other than a 5' long taper jig for my table saw...guess my 8' level and a couple of clamps will have to suffice.

[@mcorrade]

I save scrap pieces because I'm cheap and a wood hoarder. Can't help myself

[@denniswhite166]

Me too and I get a lot of wood from the curb and work sites (with permission of course) where some less frugal wood workers have tossed them out. I recently made a dog house out of entirely tossed out wood. One man's scrap is another man's lumber supply.

[@nightcatarts]

There's nothing worse than needing something & not having it. Consequently, my garage is full of pallet boards.

[@JosephQPublic]

Night Cat - Never know when you need rusty nails 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@avrumisolaimani8546]

same

[@samcooke5970]

Oh man that speaks right to my soul

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Good info James, I like the idea of the plaining you mentioned 👍👍. Thanks for sharing with us.Fred.

[@bati800]

thanks for sharing such useful tips

[@robertbankhead8661]

Your tips n tricks are awesome! Appreciate this video immensely as about to start a table. Here's to saving me about a week of sanding. I'd say more but I'm headed to Amazon to buy rubber bands.....

[@paulcrow4827]

Stumpy, this is off topic, but I used my first Fisch drill bits last week. They were Brad point, not Forster, bits but I was still impressed. Thanks for steering me right.

[@davetarrant6888]

James your are a genius. Always so insightful. The holes over the seams... tape to create a arc... rubber bands... 🙌

[@kevinmorley8119]

I wish this video had come out a week ago when I started gluing up 15 kitchen doors out of 3/4" maple haha, would have saved me a lot of sanding!

[@oxylepy2]

I save tons of scraps of wood. I use them to prevent my c clamps from damaging projects, propping things up, making shims, beating leather on

[@kevinsmith4001]

What are your opinions on 4 way panel clamps? I’ve been considering making some or buying the kits for them since I regularly make cutting boards and panels for flags too.

[@gateway1600]

Excellent video. Now I have a use for that 5 pound bag of rubber bands I bought for a misguided garden project.

[@danmadefurniture]

the wood wizard! love your videos

[@JT-hw6mq]

Thanks for this and all your useful tips. stay safe.

[@markkoons7488]

You're getting really good.

[@markbryan9989]

Like the tape idea for medium panels. Always frustrating when you unclamp and find ridges between the boards! Thanks James!

[@tiananman]

Stumps you're a lifesaver. I've been working on a dining room table, dreading the final glue up... this will help enormously.

[@twandieltjes1359]

This video is a but older but I just saw it today. Do you provide the tape at both cauls (Top/bottom)? What stuff do you put on the workbench to protect it from glue dripping on it?

[@jayminor9757]

Easy to find 2 x 4s shaped with an arch in them 75% of the buggers at Home Depot come like that! Just try and find a few straight ones. Good tips sir. I’ve glued up lots of panels but will adopt these techniques in the future.

[@jjh468]

Super helpful, thank you!

[@MrBonners]

Also shims (posit notes,playing cards...) under the cawls. matched wedge pairs under bar of bar clamps to nudge boards in.

[@SCWatches]

Nice clear video and well laid out workshop. Good idea shelving for grinders as they take up a lot of bench space and chisels look great laid out. Am clamping old split clock case with old wooden cramps and appreciate the ark you showed us as everything bows when pressure applied.

[@greglavallee7613]

as always another great educational video I really like the elastic bands trick

[@dougprentice1363]

Seems like plywood would be a good choice for caul material.

[@glencrandall7051]

I knew that cauls should have a slight radius but never thought about using painters tape to create the bow. I also like the thin strip method to create the bow. Thank you for sharing James. And stay healthy.

[@havenwoodcrafts2939]

THank you for all the informative videos...

[@seamus6387]

Nice, the only cauls I've ever heard about where the last ones you mentioned. Glad to know there are other styles.

[@mikecurtin9831]

Thanks for the tips. My bell was rung years ago, but definitely a thumbs up.

[@U2BER2012]

Excellent, thank you!

[@dougbing7792]

I have been using cauls, but had never seen or heard of the idea of putting holes over the seems. Great idea! I love learning new things. I also like how you explain it in detail without being too wordy. Keep up the great work.

[@guyh.4553]

Great ideas Stumpy! I came up with an idea by accident. I acquired on old bed frame that I am going to use on some projects. When I tore it down I came up with (2) 3 ft pieces of angle iron. I've since started using them as cauls and they work great.

[@timk282]

Best video on this topic I've watched, thanks!

[@musicbymark]

Instead of masking tape, I just do a few swipes of each end on the jointer. You just gave me an idea though James - you could cut a kerf 1/3 or so in on each end, but shy of the middle. When you clamp each end,, squishing the kerf closed, MORE press would be applied to the CENTER... Interesting eh James? Greetings from Iron Mountain / Dickinson County.

[@gslope1]

Do you have to put the arc on the top and bottom cull?

[@StumpyNubs]

Yes

[@TheSkiggly]

Stumpy.. it would seem with all those wonderful planes displayed behind you, using one of them to shape the cauls on the last 6-8" or so to provide the arch, would be easier and faster. There's something magical about using a hand plane. 😀 I absolutely enjoy every video so far. Thank you for sharing your experience and expertise. Note: "re-arrange-a-ritus" was hilarious!

[@StumpyNubs]

I don't make videos for me, I make them for our viewers. And the majority do not use hand planes.

[@SmallWorkshopGuy]

An yet again, another great tutorial - your stuff is so very helpful for people learning woodworking! Hope while you are hiding out from the infamous virus, you can make about 50 more instructional videos for us! Stay healthy! By the way, is the finger pretty much healed?

[@StumpyNubs]

I can bend it most of the way, but it still hurts. It'll take a couple years to get back to 100%.

[@tubescream]

That Red Wings can holder always brings a smile to my face.

[@allenwc]

I’ve never used cauls. Great idea. Good timing too, because starting tomorrow I have an 8ft wide bookcase to build, top, bottom,2 shelves, all out of laminated panels, Douglas fir, spruce, douglas fir to create red white red, Canadian eh ;).

[@unitwoodworking5403]

Thanks for the visual and detailed explanation

[@mikevanerem4088]

Thanks, very helpful as always!

[@grahammcelrath8167]

Got a recommendation for how much arc/radius to put on a caul for large panels? Say, up to 3 feet wide or as wide of a glue up as you recommend?

[@grahamstephenson1505]

Always an education- thank you!

[@bernarddouthit4647]

James - thanks so much for all you do and for our prompt reply to my question. Obviously when you are making panels, the boards need to be as straight as possible. I have 2 questions about "joining" boards: 1. Are there any entry level jointers you would recommend? I have purchased a 6 in Craftsman jointer that is on the way. Bob Vila and a few other sites rate it highly, but other reviews say it doesn't last. Spending $1,000+ for a Jet or Shop Fox jointer isn't part of the plan as I'm saving up for a SawStop. 2. I have a piece of walnut I am trying to get straight to add to a cutting board that's in progress and the uneven-ness down to milimeters as I hold it next to a metal level I have. For the record, I did build a jointer jig sled for my planer that included glued down sandpaper and shims - and like you said, it's "not optimal" lol. After about 2 hours of adjustments and passes and more adjustments I gave up. Do you have any recommended tips or techniques for hand sanding boards to get them straight? It may be time to get out the orbital sander and a 80 or 120 grit disk, but the board is only slighly uneven in about 2 one-inch spots and only a fraction of a milimeter. I can just barely slide a sticky note through in some parts.

[@stretchhurion6702]

will this help with panels that twist from corner to corner thanks

[@715woodworks2]

Thank you for this! I'm starting on a desk and have been worrying about making sure the top (65"x32") will be flat as possible. I'll have to give the cauls a try. :D

[@tjacksonwoodworker3726]

very good info...Thanks

[@johnbarlow1892]

You suggested using a sander to reduce a 2x4 while standing in front of a whole rack of hand planes.

[@StumpyNubs]

I know it's fun to look for things to call people out on, but I don't make videos for me and my tools. I make them for our audience.

[@tugnut1]

Great information. Another useful woodworking video.

[@stevetobias4890]

Great video Mr Nubs!

[@rick91443]

Thanks....cheers...rr Normandy, France

[@OzSafe1]

Timely video. Can I use my domino to help align my boards? Sorry if this is a dumb question but I’m fairly new to woodworking and haven’t done this yet. Thanks.

[@StumpyNubs]

Yes, that will work.

[@markproulx1472]

Super video. Thank you!

[@stewartbonner]

thin shims and thin wedges under the cauls near non-flush joints for fine adjustments. no need to arc a caul. the underside (the good side) will be forced flushed up.

[@nkabui8wnabnd8099999]

Love this. Making a set today. Thanks!

[@SteveC38]

Well done James👍

[@TulsaDave3]

How do these work with pocket holes?

[@dammorgan107]

A section of angle iron does the trick...glue won't stick, wont warp, lasts forever. Have the right angle turned up and the two edges on the boards

[@StumpyNubs]

If it's iron it can react to some wood, like oak, and leave black streaks. That's a common problem with pipe clamps as well. So you're back to waxing or taping over the iron.

[@thegoodfight365]

thanks for another great tip. 👍🏾

[@ralhmcc47]

Stumpy, Been following you longer than I care to admit, this is off-topic, what is the best circular saw blade to cut 2-inch thick basswood. smallest kerf Ralph

[@bernarddouthit4647]

James - I ended up with a bunch of redwood boards that a contractor left out after finishing a deck project down the street. I'm hoping to glue them together to make as part of a new shop cart that will hold my planer and soon to be ariving jointer. Most of the boards are the same thickness, about 1x6 and they vary in lengths from 24 to 48 inches long. Two questions: 1. Is this a good idea? (Assuming I joint the edges of them so they aren't rounded.) 2. Since redwood is fairly soft, do you think I should apply a hardener to the surface like a polyurethane? I am hoping that I might be able to build a saw sled out of this wood as well. If this works, I can return a piece of 3/4" maple plywood to Lowe's that was $45.

[@StumpyNubs]

It is a soft wood and will dent up over time, but I am not sure that matters for a shop cart. As for the sled, I would use plywood because it is more stable and likely to remain flat compared to any solid wood.

[@beantea5592]

GAAAHHH I literally glued up a wonky top an hour ago. It would have helped to see this first.

[@davidpfisterer4075]

You talk about using hard wood or pine. How about 3/4 inch plywood?

[@williamellis8993]

More great info, James. Thanks.

[@nightcatarts]

I often wrap the cauls in foil or cling film (saran wrap) to ensure I don't have to worry too much about glue squeeze-out or drill the things. Provided you wipe off most of the excess after applying the side clamps, it's equally simple to clean up with a scraper afterwards.

[@seb1675]

Awesome. Thanks for this.

[@מעייןהמלבלבתחייםםםם]

Thanks for another great tips!!

[@fournierluc2205]

Very interesting video. Do you have some kind of rule of thumb to determine how much arc you should give to the caul e.g: 1/16" or 1/32" per foot?

[@StumpyNubs]

No need to be that precise. I go about 1/8 for short cauls, 1/4 for long ones, or somewhere in that range.

[@damionrod]

Hi , I m making a white oak coffee table it will have 5 , 141mm x 25m x 705mm panels glued together. I was thinking of using done dowels when gluing the panels to add some strength as my 3 year old daughter will definitely play on it once its done. Do you really think I need the dowels ?

[@StumpyNubs]

If you use good glue (get a new bottle of Titebond if yours may be a little old) and glue it up in a warm place (don't do it in the winter in an unheated shop) your glue bond will be stronger than the wood itself. You should need no dowels. Of course you should also make sure the mating edges between the boards are flat so there are no gaps in the joint.

[@steveholman5978]

Another way to make cauls with a curved edge is to screw them onto a scrap of plywood or MDF. You can put the flush edges up against a fence or other straight piece of something and put a small piece of something an eighth of an inch thick (more or less depending on how much curve you want) between the caul and the straight edge in the middle and clamp the ends of the caul to your straight edge so that when you screw the caul down it will be slightly bowed. Then simply rip an eighth of an inch or so off after removing the clamps, and when you remove the screws you'll have a slightly convex edge on one side of your caul.

[@islandcharlie7132]

Great tips, Thanks.

[@williamfitzer4805]

Boiled linseed oil applied to the caul will also keep them from sticking to the glue.

[@RobyWanKenobi]

Would the 3rd method be the best option for laminating 3 or 4 pieces of 3/4 MDF to become a workbench top measuring 40"x80"? And or are there other considerations or options that I should be aware of. I was planning on using a screws in a grid to act as clamps during the glue up but became worried that when creating dog holes later I may go through half of a screw hole damaging the dog hole. Obviously this would be minor and only cosmetic but looking for ways around it. (Because that should be my concern not the off chance that I will actually get this flat and then not slip up when cutting to final size or just dropping it on a corner while flipping it) And note that I have not finalized my dog hole positions at the moment which would also solve the problem. Thank you for all you do. I cant begin to explain how many and to what extent you have helped, educated, and inspired my woodworking and in turn my life. Thank you.

[@jwdougherty3798]

AN alternative and very easy trick to making cauls with a slight arc to the edge with a hadnplane. It costs nothing. Mark the center of the caul and, starting with the end where you can plane with the grain remove wood starting with long strokes that almost reach the center and successively shorter strokes that start at the end and end farther from the center. You can check the curve with a straight edge if you want. Then for the other end, since you are planing with the grain, start close to the center - about as far away as the work on the other end stopped and successively plane an arc, each stroke reaching to the far end of the board. This typically takes about as long as laying down tape. You can do this for all sizes of glue ups. The reverse of this can be applied to the mating edges of the boards to be glued. It was often used in the past because by starting your clamping in the center the slightly concave edges become "self clamping." The clamp pressure compresses the arc near the center and the boards "want" to straighten out, so there is pressure from the clamped boards themselves near the ends. You need fewer clamps this way too.

[@أبوحمود-ب2ي]

How to cut 1×2 longitudinal half by usig sirculer saw?

[@MillerCustomGuitars]

Great tips Jim!

[@barryirby8609]

One way to get a curved caul is to just buy some of those crooked a$$ 2 x 4's from the borg and cut them in half. the way I curved my hardwood ones was with a jointer. Mark the center on both sides. Cut from center to end both ways. Then make progressively shorter and shorter passes and develop a nice taper both ways. I also made pieces of All Thread to take the place of the clamps. Tighten then with a socket on a drill or impact driver.

[@mskulls83]

How is those Bora clamps working for you? always look at them..

[@StumpyNubs]

Work great! my favorite are the parallel clamps and pistol grips.