Clever Subscriber Woodworking Tips and Jigs - Episode #28

[@ilive4livemusic]

I use a head lamp quite often and it has been a real help for getting light just where I need it.

[@louislandi938]

I always watch as soon as you post a new edition. Your channel is too valuable to miss. Thank you for giving me a foundation in woodworking.

[@bigsparky65]

Very interesting, i use zero clearance inserts on my table saw. I also use the gripper for my push stick or block. You were correct, that was a tie float. I will have to look into one of them

[@Idahoanghost]

Thanks Colin! Always great!

[@RGRGJKK]

Pura vida mi amigo thanks for sharing your ideas and knowledge about this topic pura vida

[@rays9033]

As always from this channel, great tips and help for us all. Thank you!!!

[@tundrasr5709]

I used the headlights all the time and they were great.

[@garyholtfreter5076]

Those head strap lights are great, especially for us older grey beards. Have you ever been under a sink for repairs and try to get a light positioned on your work? One of the best investments I have ever made. They are bright, long battery life and rechargeable. Spend a little more money on one and you won’t regret it.

[@MCsCreations]

Really great tips, Colin! Thanks a lot! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@bobheatwole804]

I have found the best solution for a push stick to grip better is to put a thin layer of silicone on it. Put a bead on and just spread it. Silicone has a high degree of friction on most surfaces.

[@SMee67]

More great tips, 👌🏽 cheers guys, keep me coming!👍🏽

[@hassanal-mosawi4235]

Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!

[@marilynmoore6752]

My husband replaced the light fixtures bulb that came with his bandsaw with a led bulb, big difference, also he uses shelf liner as antiskid material it works great and is inexpensive

[@Jurassique]

Very good ideas, especially the last one for me!! Thanks 🙂

[@nialstewart8263]

A decent head torch is incredibly useful. I use mine regularly, invaluable if you have to knock a breaker off to replace a light fitting etc. Worth spending the money on one that will last years, even if it's not rechargeable.

[@bradasskg11]

That last tip is great, I don’t know how I hadn’t thought of something so obvious

[@stanmashek3085]

GREAT VIDEO

[@matthewclina4162]

That last one would work great as a stop block for tenoning.

[@alant84]

Something that I think could make that last jig even more accurate is to actually cut the bottom off, so that it leaves a space underneath which is exactly as high as you need a cut to be. This eliminates any inaccuracies due to pencil thickness. Of course this would make it less versatile for setting multiple depths, but for common cut depths (say 3/4 inch) you'll have a jig which you can actually position over the blade and raise the blade up until it touches the underside of the jig for a perfect repeatable height adjustment. Since it's just made from a few pieces of plywood it would be cheap and easy to make a few like that for common sizes, and then another like the one in the video for any one-off depths you may need.

[@timrichardsatsea]

Well following that along, why not laminate (or trim) the block so that it is tiered into several cut depths, outer cut higher, inner cut shorter? Like a mini staircase.

[@takeniteasyfriend]

Brilliant. Tiered and without a base🎯👌🏻. Why not add a fence clamp to keep the height meter more stable also? Going to try your guys’ ideas. Thanks!!!

[@מעייןהמלבלבתחייםםםם]

Great tips, thanks!!

[@garyholtfreter5076]

The name float is correct Colin. Great for both sanding and push block.

[@peterfong8777]

Thanks 🙏

[@jerryjohnsonii4181]

Thanks for the Tips and Jigs !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@jimspencer5610]

You could also use the height jig as an easy block to touch off of when using your miter gauge so that you don't have to clamp a piece of wood to the fence.

[@jeremyprovonsil7886]

That grabber thing is nice, but crosscutting thin material like that is simply dangerous. It doesn’t matter if you haven’t had a problem (yet), it’s safer to use a sled or just go right to the smarter tool for the job if you have it. A chop saw. Cool video. 👍🏽

[@chuckredd9131]

Few months ago I went to a "Restore"/Recycle and found a ton of different floats, sizes all at good prices. I cut a couple to narrower widths, added anti-slip material to them.

[@Habibulla.M]

Nice tips

[@bayoudriftcreations5923]

I have about 6, energizer headlamps. A couple at work, and several around the house. I also have 4 or 5, cheaper ones, and the good ones, are FAR superior.

[@aaronmcintyre3998]

Thank you

[@jimspencer5610]

If the metal on that float is magnetic, I wonder if you could just hold the grippy material on with a couple nametag magnet bars.

[@grahamrankin4725]

I have used the headlamp in my shop.

[@gerdashupe1546]

I make my thin pushers out of Masonite, works great.

[@Pistol_Knight]

It's a grouting float (used by tilers)

[@michaelsnell4034]

That is a grout float. There is also a red rubber thing nearly the same with the concrete finishing tools.

[@johnoerter2883]

I was going to recommend the same: I bought one with red crepe, very good grip on the wood.

[@smokeydk7712]

My small bandsaw came with a magnetic flexy adjustable light

[@baldeagle5297]

Colin, did you forget you have a laser engraver? this would be a perfect place to use it.

[@jackgulick2631]

Just a mention harbor freight has a oval flashlight with a magnet on the it has 2 different settings for around $2

[@sarahlangwith7620]

Instead of making the little jig with ply facing, use a melamine so write on, wipe off? Stand the little jig against the piece to be cut and mark off the depth.. then just set blade to the top of that line?

[@takeniteasyfriend]

☝️The blade-height idea simple, elegant and inexpensive. I’m learning there is way too much marketing out there attempting to distract us from quicker shop-made solutions that are fundamentally superior (and more cost effective). Thanks for sharing 👍💪

[@blaugrana-jw3dd]

where can we send the tips and tricks?

[@NickGranville]

Wouldn’t that anti skid material be dangerous on the table saw? Eg the blade could catch on it and pull the whole thing into the blade (and maybe hands or fingers in the process). I’d think it might be a similar issue to wearing gloves.

[@simonclifton4139]

So that’s the issue I have seen with my measuring the height of the blade.

[@danrogers4617]

I wouldn't put the black non-slip mesh material on a push block. The material could catch on the blade and cause it to be ripped from your hand. That stuff doesn't cut with a table saw.

[@bradasskg11]

Huh? That stuff tears like paper

[@Andyloveswood]

If the insert is lower than the surface of the table, why not just adjust the insert?

[@Faruk651]

Are you sure you are not Proximo from the movie Gladiator?

[@talleysuehohlfeld3959]

Even if your workshop is relatively well lit, often when you are working, you cast a shadow on the very thing you’re trying to say. That’s one of the reasons I really love my headlamp and have started using it no matter what I’m doing

[@marbleman52]

I would not care to use the push stick idea that you showed at the 5 minute mark. And like Colin said, using a dowel as a handle is just too unstable in my opinion. There are plenty of much better push sticks available either to buy or better yet, to make yourself. The type that Collin has where the handle points upward and forward is what I prefer. But the ones I make are taller and have a long, oval hole for my hand that allows me to get a firm grip on it. And like Collin, I have two that are real thin and in fact, yesterday I made another one that is 2 " thick that gives good stability and pressure down on wide boards that I rip. I made it out of treated Pine and it has some weight to it, but that is okay with me...more stability. I do a lot of re-sawing with my table saw which requires the blade to be slowly raised, until and quite often, the maximum height is cranked in. So this is different than what Collin mentioned about the height of the blade. Fences are way too short, vertically speaking, for stable re-sawing so I bolted on two taller 6" boards , one on each side of my fence...a 'sandwich' effect. Now I can keep the board I am re-sawing held firmly against the taller fence board which keeps the board stable and nice & vertical.

[@joebrown1382]

Good tips Colin. I like the cement float push stick. Gonna make one of those.

[@ot9180]

Another vijeo where the contributors names called Jeff and Jill.

[@morrislevy6994]

i wish you would ramp up the volume of your videos.

[@mapp0v0]

led's don't last forever. On average the things seem to stop working in very roughly about 2years. Doesn't seem to make much difference how much I paid.

[@lafamillecarrington]

... but do you have a push block in the shape of a cat, like I saw in another video?

[@0SQUARESINMYO]

Stop spending $100s on non slip Rockler cookies and mats and all that. Go to Goodwill or even your local dollar general and pickup some yoga mats. Same material, low cost, and can be glued to just about anything. Works perfect for a non slip surface

[@ionpopescu4303]

Kevin - Do you have your clips somewhere else than KZbin ? They canceled the Thumbs down feature , and I am here rarely now.

[@kyleolson8977]

I searched for a float to use as a push block some time back because I was curious and my advice is - don't do this. This is safety gear. Yes, if you find the right float you get something which will work as a push block. But first you need to find the right float, because some won't grip the wood how you want. When when you do find a float with the right contact, you'll see it's almost certainly not designed to be safely nicked by a spinning saw blade like most modern push block. And finally the ergonomics of the float will be not quite right compared to a push block because you're using it in a different way. In the end you'll have at least a slightly worse push block if not much worse, and push blocks are not that expensive. You can get a pretty decent two pack for $15 or so. You many not won't save any money. on the alternative. But most importantly this is safety gear. These little bits are are important, and you should not compromise.

[@fparker9949]

and NO structural push notch opens the door to inferior push safety

[@louislandi938]

I always watch as soon as you post a new edition. Your channel is too valuable to miss. Thank you for giving me a foundation in woodworking.

[@louislandi938]

I always watch as soon as you post a new edition. Your channel is too valuable to miss. Thank you for giving me a foundation in woodworking.