Climb Smart: Boulder Training Efficiency ⚡ | Tips & Tricks by Adam Ondra

[@AdamOndra]

Hey climbers, let's download the TIPS & TRICKS leaflet for this episode for free ⏩ drive.google.com/file/d/1j6BvSNPJmZo2m9jc9vbhPXKqrUND9u-O/view?usp=sharing and join me in the new membership section for the next TIPS & TRICKS videos. The second one with Teresa is waiting for you there already.

[@diegolera-lozano7092]

Do a video at B-pump if possible!

[@stefanorossignoli]

Thaaaaanks!!!

[@wulfkottmann285]

Great Idea!!! Please do a video on Basic Techniques!

[@fbimagesphoto]

The climbing community really is unique in that so many professionals are so openly willing to share their experience. From Adam’s typical bouldering session, the whole lattice training KZbin channel, the free crack tutorials from the wide boyz, the hours of incredibly detailed analysis from Dave McLeod… It’s not taken for granted!

[@chiz161190]

They don't do it for charity, you know ;)

[@mysterioushoodedguy2332]

And Magnus is out there doing side quests

[@rudolphteperberry3888]

I agree it's very cool but maybe not unique to climbing. My other main sport is trail running and I see the same there. I expect it's the same in a lot of sports.

[@Clin270]

@@rudolphteperberry3888Would you mind sharing a few channels? :) I’m trying to get into a bit more different running than just asphalt or whatever I meet when I get out the door.

[@elianechris7357]

@@rudolphteperberry3888 it is (also normal in other sports), a really nice trait of humans in my opinion

[@fennegvdgvd]

Easy warm up boulder, gets on a 7A. I knew it.

[@EmmanuelMiquet]

Ahah, yup, classic x) But really appreciated the kind and honnest word on beginners / whatever your level is, you can apply the tips, and we don't care about the number, weather it's 7c, 6a or even some 4, just go and climb ^^

[@Mylada]

tbh 6A is closer to 7A than 7A to 8C+

[@dab88]

was that really a 7A? Lots of holds and his fingers were in deep.

[@fennegvdgvd]

@@Mylada yeah, it's an incredible gap. If your max level is 8C+, what is 7A anymore..

[@franmartinruiz3662]

Yeees I was waiting for it too 😂

[@zelpingk542]

man i love how Adam always has this little smile on his face when he talks about climbing, keep up the series!

[@louisbayle9302]

As a senior climber, I feel like the non-climbing warmup movements are extremely important too, and I'd be very interested in such a session ! thank you very much, it is a great training lesson !

[@Cruuzie]

My gym doesn’t usually bother to set boulder problems just for me, but I guess I didn’t realise I had to provide my custom designed holds. This will definitely help me progress.

[@robertstone1218]

What an blessing to live in this era where I can watch in depth insights from Adam, Stephano, and Emil back to back to back. So informative and inspiring

[@_renz0005]

Good job on the climbing comp just now, my heart dropped when you slipped on the lead climb. But you did great. Keep your head up my friend

[@romanstinkt]

thanks for the spoiler

[@suede__]

20:00 is such a good lesson that you could be doing it "right" but also doing it wrong. Same holds, same movement, but body being slightly lower. I think someone could feel like they just aren't strong enough or flexible enough, and it could be that their body just isn't in the correct position.

[@Raynaputi]

That's the best explanation of warning up. I've always been confused about warming up. Thanks

[@aleksandratrzcionka8973]

I do appreciate you wearing a mike, so we can hear that you are actually working hard on those problems. You make everything look so easy it's good to know I'm not the only one making noices while climbing :)

[@riderdie1603]

This is really interesting. I am now curious what an endurance training session would look like. I basically only have been trying max power climbing at the beginning of the session with a high volume session to end it. This has worked well as someone who’s only been climbing a year and a half, but now I can see I need to focus my training more to keep progressing. I will try incorporating sessions like this a few times during the week.

[@Kaygu_]

Super excited for this tips & tricks series!

[@veselinkolev5105]

Adam, con mi hijo hemos empezado escalar gracias a ti. El tiene 7 años, yo 38 y queremos ser fuertes como tú!

[@AdamOndra]

Hola ¡Me encanta leer esto ahora! ¡Buena suerte y entretenimiento escalando a los dos!

[@petterho]

Granted it's only a warm-up but I love that one of the most replayed areas in this video is the massive dab at 6:20. Awesome video!

[@ivojonker]

Really good video, gives some perspective on questions I had but couldn't get answered! Hope you'll do more of these!

[@IzzyIkigai]

I really appreciate the "english subtitile available" and also saying that they are. Not enough people care as much as :)

[@sergiogonzalezcancela4802]

He climbs so fast whenever he tries hard like at 17:12 that you might think the video is sped up. That velocity you don't see it in anybody else and is amazing.

[@naheedhassan9037]

This is golden and no better way to start the week! Thank you Adam!

[@balakingston4684]

extremely grateful for this Adam, thank you

[@l3ob-Ross]

Great video! looking forward to the next one. Very educational, i will try adapting these tips to my bouldering sessions. Thanks alot Ondra and crew!

[@Rock_Appreciator]

Honestly, I thought I was a bit goofy for climbing randomly, stretching a lot, and just standing and feeling the rock and holds before every session. Kind of almost messing around to some degree vs. actually sending. Glad to see Adam does it too.

[@Julian-Boulders]

At 5:05 there's a guy wearing a Radium Arcadium shirt from Maastricht's bouldering gym. Nice to see someone from here in Adam's video! Of course it's also nice to get some insight into Boulder efficiency from Adam, especially his warm up strategy.

[@Will-lo8ji]

That back flag kick off the wall at 6:16 to generate momentum from high foot is so dang cool! I feel like I often end up in similar position and try to pull through. Stoked to try this next session!

[@zivotvkrosne2132]

Great! Thanks for this and see you in your crew!

[@b.j.krautermann6802]

I'm halfway through the video and i'm so glad the algorythm suggested it. It's so relaxing and informative to watch and the type of editing is also great. Props :) I think it would be great to have a similar Video on a typical grip strength session (hangboard etc.)

[@hahne9]

"Everything up to 8a, I consider as a warm up" 😅

[@boogaloo4640]

He's so relateable 😏

[@augustepugnet5407]

Love the concept, thank you ! Could you do the ultimate climbing test like Magnus did ? :)

[@boogaloo4640]

But he already knows he can climb 9c

[@augustepugnet5407]

@@boogaloo4640 that’s mostly to get more metrics on how strong he is, especially weighted pull ups and finger ! As a benchmark.

[@adriensourdille1241]

what a great idea august! The people wants to see it

[@isabellegarnreiter9327]

let's goooo

[@philleng480]

Nice one Adam, great to share what your training strategies are - confirming what most of us should know anyway.

[@remy1684]

Great episode ! Can't wait to see how a session of lead climbing looks like for Adam Ondra ! Also surprised by myself, I was already aware of many things that make a bouldering session efficient. Thanks for the video

[@Hruuu-fh1jh]

Great, let's go to be member-bros! :D Excited as hell!

[@fx__________]

this was awesome, simple and really helpful. can't wait for another video! Thanks Adam

[@Maggie.s.p.242]

thank you, Adam, you inspired me to go again to the climbing hall. Just like you said, I also enjoy bouldering like a warm - up exercise. without having to impress anyone, just enjoying my moves.

[@FloTheUIM]

As a beginner, this is great! Plenty of tips to add to my routine/sessions :) cheers big O!

[@davidenkel6675]

Hej Adam, thank you for sharing such nice content. I really admit that listening to your body/instinct while climbing is more important than exactly follow fix rules and plans. Therefore I really like your access. All the best, Dave

[@michaelbonnet2155]

great video. a short in-depth of the non-climbing warmup would be cool to see.

[@MrJojoxD]

Nice video Adam! Could you make a video on how to train power endurance and endurance? It is always difficult for me to know how to separate these two specific training sessions and to plan them.

[@kamilbeelidebelfort3319]

Great Adam! Thanks a lot! Very helpful.

[@luisteixeira6156]

It's really nice to see this kind of video coming from you! I definitely want to see more! Also, I think you can improve your content a lot as you do more and more of these. Besides, you have great friends in the youtube community that can help you that! Great video 👍

[@AndreaR_qualunque]

Fantastic video, really really clear and well done. Not always a great athlete is a great teacher, well Adam you’re the best climber and also a very smart teacher. Thanks

[@karelkarel958]

''typič - aahh, iteresting, i was pretty sure i was gonna do it''

[@harrisontrakilovic6766]

Great vid, thanks for the tips. More please!

[@mdogy2k]

Love the vid! Fun to watch a climbing session from such a star. Would love to see the grades of each problem as you do them :)

[@stefanorossignoli]

Thank you Adam! Waiting for the next video! I enjoied climbing like hobby 18 years ago and just one year ago I understood warming up and resting importance!!! Very happy to heard by you the same!! Ciaooo!!

[@nextgeneration4578]

thanks adam, we wanna see you climbing in the next one

[@ericbermudezvalle94]

I loved this video! Your explanations are so clear and with passion but chill at the same time, entering like water in my ears. Thank you Adam! It's my 3rd week in climbing hehe and as a beginner i learnt a lot, tomorrow i will apply all of this to my boulder session. :)

[@alexvesco9043]

This was really useful... thank you Adam 👍

[@KMoscRD]

I like the way you verbalize your experience, knowledge and idea. We move on the information we learned - books, experience. Knowledge system slows down belief system - source of constraints, freeing space for imagination and new knowledge and experience - visualisation processes get better with mental training. “If it disagrees with experiment, it’s wrong. In that simple statement is the key to science.” - Richard Feynman Climbing is science experiment of psychology, regulating biological processes, physics, math and use of cognitive skills pre, during and post climb - senses, inteligence, balance - orientation in space, bilateral integration - synergy of two sides of nervous system - forming coordinations, memory shapes, colors, its orientation in space as well us performing specific task, anything that's task related. Just it's all about relationships of all systems in the body acting as whole performing movement. Strategies to organize information might be different, but overall it's all about information and its instant access in movement. It's all about predicting and probability as well. Ecosystem of climbing good is when the knowledge dominates over beliefs, thus finding climbing diamonds to be polished into best possible versions.

[@Жекапельмень-ф4е]

Thank you Adam! It will help me become better

[@Leander_]

Hi Adam, great video, thanks! For the editing/visuals, a small tip is to give the text a black border or a semi transparent background to improve legibility. Now, occassionally text bled into the background.

[@AdamOndra]

Hey, thanks for the input. We'll consider it. AO Team

[@Ironboxrestingsideways]

All I want is to finish a boulder and have Adam say , 'Well executed '.

[@shinywalrus8856]

I did this warm up and I finally got my first V5. I haven’t felt like I have progressed until I got the V5.

[@Hhkkvh]

Love the video!! Would be awesome to see more of these videos where you explain your trainings/ warmup / stretch program so we can learn from the best :))

[@escapevelocity8092]

Joy to watch, nice chilled pace but with loads of practical advice and tackling of immense problems! ❤

[@julienguetty788]

Love this series of videos. Definitely I can relate !

[@skater5008]

Would love to see a video on mental preparation! Ways to focus, confidence level, preventing frustration and burnout, etc.

[@leoingson]

This is actually the most interesting question, since it's Adams main strength, in my opinion.

[@Basti12293]

Thank you for those tipps 😊

[@one-o-four8541]

Very interesting! Looking forward for the next episode. Can,t wait!

[@tomasjanda451]

Čau, supr video. Jakožto začátečník ocením každou užitečnou radu. Musím určitě zlepšit warm up a nezkoušet těžké nebo riskantní Bouldery. dneska jsem se zranil :) velký skok a natažený sval na lítku. Děkuji za tipy a budu se těšit na podobné videa a moc ti fandím kámo.

[@alexandrexavier1632]

Great video! It would be really nice to see your strategy when approaching a project on the rock as well!

[@ivanpaskalev9863]

Thank you for sharing your amazing experience! Would love to see something familiar for route climbing 😊

[@tuffythumper6676]

Super interesting ! I totally agree, warming is so cool to feel good mentally and physically (at least for me), not just to warm up.

[@arnauddandurand6531]

Merci pour ce partage ! Une bonne pédagogie pour une seance d'entraînement claire. Bonne continuation à toi.

[@KINGJEREMY6666]

This is amazing ❤

[@Vejteho]

Moc děkuji za takové videa od vás všech profíků co tvoříte, moc to pomáhá hlavně takhle pro mně když začínám. Lezu 3 měsíce svoje boty mám ani ne 2 měsíce a lezu obtížnosti V4 označené u nás v Budějicích na stěně což odpovídá asi 6C? Ale tyhle videa co vznikají mi pomáhají se posouvat, takže ještě jednou moc děkuji.

[@robdb1993]

Great vide as usual !

[@donkyuhbuhts540]

This was legit a really good and practical video.

[@Krone_46]

Wow, really good advices Adam. Thank you very much. Cant wait for next episode! 💪

[@AdamOndra]

Glad you liked it! You can watch more Tips & Tricks episodes and get more advice in the new KZbin membership ➡️ kzbin.info/door/8eNyF9eYwgr_K-Nl4gSHWwjoin. See you there!

[@po_2_banane]

Nice video i love the concept you should do it more

[@sewerynkaczmarczyk6113]

I like this tips & tricks section. Awaiting for more videos :)

[@brutus-raf]

Great video with a lot of useful tips! Thanks Adam!!

[@nbIxtean]

Thank you Adam for creating this series of tips and tricks. It is very refreshing to hear all this advices from the best climber in the world. Hope to hear some thoughts on mentality and how did you overcome any downfalls if you had any.

[@bb1039]

really good, thats a great investment from sponsors to have you do this (as some have coined Masterclass, and charge money) good way to give back and stay in the game you love. Nxt lead climb training :-)

[@47s18]

Great video Adam! More of this please :)

[@Lob4N]

Zrovna v pátek jsem byl si byl poprvé v životě vyžkoušet boulder a lezení obecně (v Hangáru v Ově), tak se mi tyhle rady budou moc hodit super :-). Chtělo by to i tipy co se týče předejití zranění kůže na prstech, případně její ošetření (dost by mě zajímalo jak toto řešíš na závodech). Mě se teď stalo, že mi nakonci lezení už na jednom prstu nevydržela, tak tipuju že to bylo tím, že jsem cvičil napoprvé příliš dlouho popřípadně to bylo absencí magnézia. PS: Chtělo by to pro začátečníky trochu lehčí bouldery v Ově . Nevím jestli je 5A dobrej start :D.

[@tono971]

Co sa tyka tej koze, tak u zaciatocnikov je casto problem, ze tie chyty prilis "rvou". Potom aj to, ze ta koza nieje zvyknuta na takuto zataz. Ked budes chodit pravidelne, tak koza sa ti prisposobi a naucis sa aj ako liezt setrnejsie k prstom.

[@Lob4N]

Jojo. Po 2 mesicich lezeni uz je to fakt rozdil :D. Vicemene lezu ty dve hodky a zatim jsem si kuzi znova nestrh :) kazdopadne jsem se do toho zamiloval :D

[@DaCo8311]

Beautiful format. Thank you

[@lucagiordanodrum]

Thank you so much for the tips! 😀Very precious! 👍

[@pavelbelik6174]

Maybe bringing back Kuba Novotny and Dr. Cumpelik for an episode and go over some less talked topics concerning general movement patterns? You had a video with them back in the day and it was super interesting! It was the episode #26 on how to move properly.

[@achjo123456]

Great viedeo, thank you Adam, please continue with these "courses"..it is really helpful for us..🙂

[@miszalajk7325]

Greetings from Alpika in Poland!

[@digitalsmear]

Love it! Thank you for sharing.

[@juliangrube6319]

Danm I really want to try holding the 50^ block now

[@morniclegreen3534]

Gotta love those 7a warmups!

[@Jchongsends]

Seeing Adam fall on a 7B slab gives me hope 😆

[@florianneumann9441]

I am currently struggeling to get solid in the 6B+/6C range - thinking of general climbing technique and flexibility ( especially hips ) being limiting factors - it really makes me sick how you just can square them out like that ^^ What i also really enjoyed in this video is to see how you use your 'free' leg, just using/switching hooks on corners so naturally. What i find totally wired is how you set your heel hooks... i am really not good at it but i wouldn't even try it the way you do because i would think that's the worst position to set it up. Guess i have to look if you already have a video on the topic. Thanks a ton for those insights

[@tono971]

I don't think that flexibility and technique are the most limiting at this level. Technique and flexibility always play a role, but from my experience, 6C is the level where strength starts to play more. It won't work without strength regardless of flexibility or technique at this level. At this level you have to focus more on (maximum) strength. It won't work without it. Also, strength will allow you to use new techniques that cannot be used without sufficient strength. This also applies to easy boulders. Compare the technique used by stronger climbers on easy boulders. It will be different from what you use. And that's because you don't have the strength for it. In the final result, this new technique enables them to climb that easy boulder more effectively. Although it seems like a more difficult/harder way for you.

[@florianneumann9441]

@@tono971 Thanks for your interresting input... I agree that often higher levels of strength are required on these grades, but usually i don't feel that as limiting factor. Or at least when i watch other (better)climbers on the same problem i often notice the mitigate some of the strength requirement by setting hooks i wouldn't think off or better movement or body position i am not really able to achieve or hold. That's why i thougth i should priorize that over strength... But it's probably a mix - already had a quite easier time on those routes when i had dropped 3kg over the summer. Will try to include a bit more strength training. Regards

[@drglobule8a]

The waiting in between tries is so hard to respect, but so efficient... I still have to warm up properly though, but then it's only been 20 years!

[@yourfriendsquid9199]

Great video, I'd love to see a power endurance bouldering video at some point in the future. I climb once a week, in a 90-minute session and I usually climb with minimal rest to try to maximize endurance training. I want to try and add more sessions during the week to try and balance it out but I'm curious to know how many times a week you think someone should train. Your insights into the sport are incredibly helpful and very much appreciated.

[@guitarmaniac]

Yeah same with me. Up to 8a easy warmup

[@LumpyGents]

This guy is climbing V7s and V8s as WARM UPs. This guy is climbing what most people will peak at in their climbing AS WARMUPS.

[@nuqqets9570]

As a new climber I really didn't realise it took that long of a rest to get back to a decent level of power. With gym I've been taking 30-90 seconds rest and have been doing the same until the flash pump hits (which should've been a sign) before doing a long rest

[@flobosstube]

Great video, thx Adam !

[@karlmatillano8705]

Thank you, this is very helpful as a beginner

[@retroanderson]

I would keen to see a video on techniques to get around body limitations. Like, I had bone issues with my hips that restrict healhooks and struggle to find ways around it to progress. Or for people of different heights to get around height limiting moves.

[@mysteriousdovesen]

Thanks!!!

[@alexgalays910]

Good video that applies to everybody (possibly not beginners with a decent strength base in their first first months as volume >>>> projecting then)

[@tamraclimbs247]

I see people climbing in the background . If Adam Ondra was at my gym I would stop everything to watch him climb. I could be one hold from flashing a wall and I'd come down lol XD he's my favorite climber!

[@JASQNT]

Managed maybe one 7a in my life!! Great video!! ❤

[@andigunzer5149]

I would like to know how your after-bouldering-session workout looks like (if you you some) or which exercises you would recommend to get a stronger climber

[@KalebSDay]

Adam with the tips to help us reach "new heights" haha :D

[@hugocreeth9469]

Fantastic video!