Adrian Ballinger Podcast on Everest and Makalu 2022

With the Everest 2022 season just around the corner, it appears the Tibet side will be closed and continued uncertainty about the wisdom of climbing on the Nepal side. There are questions as to whether operators should run their programs at all. Many are moving forward but a few are not.
I discuss the situation with Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow Expeditions who has canceled his expedition from the Tibet side this spring. We also talk about his plans for a no O's, ski descent on Makalu.
As we near the end of winter, most of the efforts across the Himalayas from Everest to K2 to Manaslu are stalled fighting heavy snow and high winds. Note, I will be covering all the action on Everest this spring on my Blog
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

[@glory5918]

Whew ! One smart one of a kind beyond human crazy dude. No wonder Ryan Mitchell chose Alpenglow for his Everest summit this year. Entire team made it up and back safely. Adrian said elsewhere he ( Alpenglow) was in contact with Swiss Meteorologists during the climb. Alan, thanks for your recent interview with Ryan Mitchell, and for the cc addition.

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

I agree about Adrian, great person who runs a class operation. Ryan climbed with different and another great outfit, Maddison Mountaineering.

[@victorvandermeulen3945]

I always enjoy Adrian Ballinger's enthousiasm and Alan you're a great interviewer 👍🏼

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Thnaks Victor, glad you enjoyed it. We always have a fun time.

[@luciad5988]

Love you Alan! Adrian is very personable as well. He’s great to listen to. Thanks.

[@matthewcollins5344]

Thank you✌️

[@vashstarwind36]

These climbers are amazing people!!! It is unreal ... and blows away my imagination what these climbers have done & can do!

[@NelsonDellis]

Great interview as usual, Alan!

[@simonngure1175]

Greetings from Kenya have watched your K2 ascent and also Adrian's on KZbin several times...inspiring stuff

[@itwasflavor-aid]

Adrian has such a unique accent.

[@ericclaptonsrobotpilot7276]

Back to regular uploads. Love it!

[@vashstarwind36]

Great content! I love it!

[@thurstonhowellthe3rd]

Choppering up to Camp 1 on Everest? That would be total capitulation to money, crowds and lack of self-sufficient skills, surely. About as ludicrous as that Russian crowd offering Os up to Camp 2! Very engaging conversation Alan. Adrian is such a credible and wholesome guy. Great stuff, thanks!

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Yeah, I think most people are not in favor of flying over the ‘fall' but years ago Brice told me he predicted the Cwm would become impassable. Long term the South Col route may become moot. Thanks for your comment and please say hi to Lovey.

[@dougdavis8986]

It's really no different than having a chairlift to camp 1. Ludicrous.

[@AllenMacCannell]

It's almost that time of year again! Time sure flies.

[@thenorthboy]

beautiful sharing

[@pakistanivloggerqueen7638]

Good sharing

[@LinusWilson]

Alpenglow’s ads on KZbin have started stalking me. I clicked but found nothing to convince me they could make it more likely that I would summit safely v paying for logistics and setting my own schedule.

[@ericclaptonsrobotpilot7276]

A Denali style Park Ranger presence at high camps is a great idea. Nepal certainly could do so at a relatively low cost.

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Agree; the idea has been floated for decades. Still, the lack of continuity and leadership from the Nepal Government (Ministry of Tourism) has stalled any ability to work on such efforts. And no guide company would foot the bill, so it must be funded through permit fees that disappear within the MoT. Both Denali and on Aconcagua, there are repeatable models of this.

[@amac6624]

Talk about an intense couple

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Intensely in love!

[@MrCollewet]

What are the ethical problems in the South route of everest?

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

I'm not sure it about ethics more than about objective dangers.

[@ericclaptonsrobotpilot7276]

Based on what Adrian has said in the past I’d say he means safety in regards to the ethical problem of putting his employees and clients through the icefall more than once or twice. Once he said he would gladly move his operations to Nepal if he was allowed to helicopter his clients and employees to camp one for their safety. I assume they would have to do their acclimatizing climbs on nearby peaks like Russel Brice has been doing for years.

[@ericclaptonsrobotpilot7276]

Ok, now that I started listening to the video I see that he just said the same thing I just did.

[@MrCollewet]

@@AlanArnetteClimbs yeah alright this i can understand, i thought he was referring to something else. Thanks

[@MrCollewet]

@@ericclaptonsrobotpilot7276 thanks for your answer. I wasn't sure if it was only about safety in the khumbu section or if there was something else I didn't know. Actually I never understood why people wouldn't acclimatise elsewhere

[@LinusWilson]

Ethics in USA guiding companies. Don’t make me laugh!

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Rather cynical, don’t you think? Yes, there are problems but many excellent operators out there as well.