Adrian Ballinger's Record Makalu 2022 Ski Descent

The world's fifth-highest at 27,765 feet (8,463 meters), Makalu saw multiple successes this season. Still, on Monday, May 9, 2022, Adrian Ballinger, co-founder of Alpenglow, texted me, "I summited today with Dorji Sonam and Pasang Sona (Alpenglow Sherpa). We fixed to the summit from where rope fixing ended by French couloir. And….I skied Makalu!!!!!! I just got back to ABC. First on top for the season. Alpenglow pride"
He walks through the climb, discussing how the Sherpas fixed the summit ropes, poor weather at times, or narrow windows of opportunity. I asked him to discuss his "ski technique" for those listeners who are avid skiers. As he was making his way down 8,000 feet of snow and ice, plus a rock gulley or two, he passed climbers going up-what fun.
Finally, we wrap up with a short discussion about how high-altitude mountaineering is changing, especially on those 'other' 8000ers like Kanchnugua, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, and Annapurna.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

[@adambuch6104]

Hell yeah! Been waiting for this one since the descent!

[@vashstarwind36]

Adrian is a pretty neat, cool fella! Great interview, Alan! A great watch/listen as always! Cheers!

[@haapysoxoxo5386]

OMG! I taught skiing when I was a teen @ MT WACHUSETT! That was 1970-71. Just happened upon this video, cazy serendipity. I've got to say, Makalu is a LITTLE steeper. Great accomplishment!

[@genokowalczyk1787]

I did as well at wachusett in 96 97

[@londongirl5339]

Hi Alan love your videos lotsa love from London UK

[@quivalla]

The next phase of climbing the 8000m for some is: insane rapid ascents, leap frogging to the next with little down time by perfecting the use of Normobaric Hypoxic Tents and high altitude Training methods. I was a Scuba diver for years and was amazed at the records people were constantly breaking as tech, training and knowledge increases. I don't think Mountaineering has come close to the extreme level divers have reached but I think in the next 10 or so years there will be only a few people that offer 70 day climbs. I also wonder if any are using EPO or blood doping to give an extra edge on top of everything. Leave your High rise apartment fly to base camp. Climb in 4 days. done. PS Great Stuff Alan!

[@LinusWilson]

Ppl should focus on first ascents. Records are temporary. Firsts are forever.

[@LinusWilson]

I really like Adrian. I hope he stays alive. The China Everest situation is unfortunate. I would not bet on it getting better.

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

China reopened this week to tourists. Alpenglow will return starting Autumn 2023.

[@LinusWilson]

@@AlanArnetteClimbs awesome but late for Everest 2023 and Alpenglow. After the Putin summit, I fear Chinese 8000ers will become like Elbrus. Inaccessible to Americans due to political tensions in the coming years.

[@cheekychicka]

Congrats Adrian on your accomplishment and your nuptials. I love happy endings! I have a question that I’d love to put towards both you and Alan. Deep divers use rebreathers and scrubbers so that they never run out of air. Is that a technology that can be used for high climbs? I assume there are some challenges to those systems that may not translate well to death zone summits but I haven’t been able to find anything on their potential online. I really appreciated how you investigated altitude tents to ensure an unbiased and scientific approach to critiquing their use. Any thoughts? I also think of my aunt who has COPD and has compact compressors so that she can go out or have to carry tanks with her. Love you both and even though I’m not Inspired to climb Everest, I do have some great wilderness real estate up her in northern BC, Canada. I’m 6 hours to Jasper and Banff national parks plus what’s in my back yard. Cheers!

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

I’m no expert but I know a few people who tied to make high altitude rebreather systems but they never took off. As you can imagine, reliability is the top priority. If you system fails, and you are acclimated to a few thousand meters lower, it’s not a good situation. This is the primary argument against supplemental oxygen along with style.

[@LinusWilson]

I haven’t seen any evidence of companies using bottled O2 on Aconcagua, but it is offered by several companies on Kili. With Aconcagua with a sub 40% success rate, and Everest north of 50% there is room for innovation in client support of Aconcagua. Every mountain’s success rate could be improved with Tanzanian guides and porters. Instead of seeing their groups as a Darwinian struggle with many failures inevitable, folks like Adrian need to think harder about ways to support clients to success.

[@AlanArnetteClimbs]

Not sure 🤔 TA accurate to connect overall summit with Alpenglow since they have a stellar summit rate, well above 90%. I had eight Summit Coach consulting clients there this year and they saw Os. But overall L see your point Linus. For me it seems to come down to preparation, trying and support for the increased inexperienced clients on all mountains these days.

[@LinusWilson]

@@AlanArnetteClimbs there is room for improvement on Aconcagua. I'm not sure how much more can be done on Everest. Alpenglow's biz was mostly no N side of Everest (not Aconcagua). I believe you on O2. Times are changing... I just have watched every video coming out on that mountain. I did not see it once and have not seen it advertised. Most Aconcagua trips have grossly inadequate acclimatization schedules, low guide ratios, no porter support above base camp and often have the clients pitch their own tents. Most of the parties show signs of altitude sickness by the night before summit. Its a wonder that more folks don't die. 2/3 deaths this year were from altitude sickness. I’m not sure hypoxic tents and choppers to Plaza de Argentina are a way to improve success rates as Alpenglow does, but they will necessitate a lot of richie rich money. Alpenglow does NOT advertise success rates. Thus your assertion is nothing more than rumor.