Climbing anchors: Sliding X

[@ChrisMorrisW]

That was one of the clearest rock climbing instructional videos I've seen. Thanks.

[@camburns210]

You guys are brilliant. I watch hundreds of climbing technique videos and yours are so straightforward. Much recommended. Cheers, Cam

[@krisdouglas6536]

Another great tutorial. Could you possibly do one on anchors using say a tree. Like an improvised anchor. Thanks

[@Obsessionclimbing]

Consider it added to the list, it is an area that we want to naturally progress to, but for you Kris, we will speed it up!

[@yuzarsif3586]

Thats help a lot, thanks so much

[@nsantomeba]

Excellent explanation

[@GodzillaGoesGaga]

You still get a shock load with a limiter knot. You are just decreasing that force due to acceleration (gravity) by making the path shorter. F=ma (force =mass x acceleration). Acceleration = change in velocity/time. If you limit the time the acceleration is lessened, hence the force is less.

[@69minutes]

Did you do the math or did you test this yourself?

[@timdolinger1352]

Do shock loads matter? I mean, should they matter in the grand scheme of things?

[@GodzillaGoesGaga]

@@timdolinger1352 Shock loads can cause pieces to pull out of cracks or cause rigging to fail especially with static cord like dyneema/spectra runners. DMM did a whole review on this. Bob Gaines and John Long discuss it in their book on climbing anchors too. A well worth read. FYI, kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKPKkpegpJ6hn7s

[@nosho409]

Are there any advantages to using a sliding-X with limiter knots instead of a quad?

[@liam4154]

My guess would be that the sliding x uses about half the cord? Both perform similarly from what I have seen so mostly preference?

[@KillroyX99]

Can you use a figure 8 as a limiter knot in this Sliding X?

[@budfloydi]

yes, and it is easier to undo a figure 8 knot after top roping

[@paulgush]

So, limiter knots shorten the fall distance by a couple of inches. That's good, but they also drastically weaken the rope

[@peterpwn9558]

Good thing you're not tied into a single rope/point of failure with a figure 8 knot. Oh wait...

[@yobp]

Up to 50% or more loss in strength actually. After watching these videos my plan is to build sport anchors with 2 slings with sliding X knots (without limiting knots). It's only a little more gear and some peace of mind redundancy. If an anchor blows you'll have a bit more shock load as he mentioned but will have two full strength slings, which should more than make up for it.

[@paulgush]

Another thing to keep in mind: if your first anchor does fail, it'll still absorb quite a bit of energy, so the second anchor won't have take all of it

[@robertodeoliveira5735]

this can be built with 10000 arms if desired. Why do you say "only 2 arms"?

[@H1Hummer]

Just keep in mind everytime you tie a knot it is a potential weak spot.

[@yobp]

i just watched a hownot2 video and their tests demonstrated a 50% reduction in strength due to knots.

[@josephastier7421]

This anchor seems a little TOO dynamic.