Climbing Basics : Anchor Angle Forces

[@petep9638]

The finger signs make it really easy to explain to gumbies. Thanks Josh!

[@marcusrice6737]

Lovin it. Would love to see a vid about angles and anchors being made with the multi-directionality of certain pieces (ie cams vs wires) in mind.

[@Mike_In_Idaho]

These are great videos, Joshua! Thanks for helping me with my climbing techniques.

[@ronnyolsen6207]

Nice video! Please make more on anchors. Maybe get into different ways to equalize anchors?

[@AskTheKid]

Can't wait to learn about natural anchors. Would you ever use a Texas rope trick with a piece of webbing around a tree?

[@bryansims6912]

Love your work, more on anchors please

[@alexjohnson4570]

Great video, please make more on anchors!

[@timothyjnau]

Good video! Would definitely be good to do a video on equalizing the anchors in the next part like the others said! Keep up the good work, I really enjoy your videos :-)

[@user-fs5bg1xj8t]

Noob question: they always told me carabiners aren't meant to work under 3 forces, in all of these anchor systems you have that... was is just to make it easy for the video?

[@NYpaddler]

In a perfect world the forces would always be 180º opposed and very closely aligned with the spine. Keeping the force close to the spine is most of the reason that D biners exist. Load a biner that way and you'll get pretty close to 100% of the rated strength because that's how they're tested. Saying they "aren't meant to work under 3 forces" is a pretty vague statement, but adding loads by adding connections probably means the forces aren't all opposed 180º. That definitely has the potential to reduce the breaking strength, but it's similar to having each of two anchors carry more than 50% of the load. With a 90º angle between two anchor points each anchor will carry 70% of the load, so the total load on the anchors is 140%. In the other direction, each anchor puts 70% of the load on the carabiner, so the upward force on the carabiner is 140% of the (presumably single) load pulling downward. That effectively reduces the breaking strength to about 71%. For a carabiner that's rated to 20kN (about as low as a non-locking climbing biner gets) that means you'd have to generate a load of 14kN. Considering that an 11mm dynamic rope only has to stand up to a 12kN fall to be approved there's not a lot of reason to worry about a biner that will fail at 14kN. In some tests by Black Diamond a carabiner loaded in 3 directions (maybe less then 90º at the top) failure occurred at about 85% of rated strength when the wide end was up and there was little or no loss with the narrow end up. I don't think it's a realistic scenario, but if you managed to load one end of a biner at very wide angles by putting a load aligned with the spine on the opposite end you'd be getting much closer to cross-loading it, depending on the angle. Figuring that a cross-loaded biner may break at 7 or 8 kN you definitely want to avoid that scenario.

[@mehhhh193]

Nice video

[@AskTheKid]

"the forces that go into those ankles"

[@jackhagerman2521]

my favorite you tuber where is the best place to buy a trax for not 130

[@derekatwood6236]

I got one on Amazon for $79 just keep checking bc they go for cheap sometimes

[@garymccreath2773]

Try a edelrid Spoc, same results for a lot less cash

[@hagantimmons7018]

Wouldn't you want your anchors equalized at three or two points less than 30 degrees? The wider your angles are getting the stronger the weight distribution is going to be on each load. So what's wrong with having your anchors on two or more points equalized less than 30 degrees? You should always have your angles less than 90 degrees and no more than 120. I get where you are trying to go with this but I think you should explain to people in another one of your videos why you can also have your angles less than 30 degrees on two or more equalized points.

[@BetaClimbers]

Right maybe I didn’t get it across the best. it’s just easy to get all the load onto one anchor when it’s under 30.

[@racsofischer7601]

I must say, I know how the force repartition works, but your explanation was not comprehensible. You got kinda lost in it.

[@FallLineJP]

Anchor angles from peace to pistol. hehe

[@sciencesaves]

simple guy, why are you wearing a jacket inside?

[@jackhagerman2521]

first

[@jenyates3033]

Watching you teach climbing makes me nervous. You demo three way loading of a screwgate and clearly have no knowledge on why this is a BAD idea. You also say to keep your angles between 30 and 90. Why nothing less than 30 degrees? No reason as less than 30 is better than 30!

[@NYpaddler]

He explained exactly what the potential problem is wit an angle of less than 30º. As for 3-way loading, do you actually understand the forces involved, or did you just accept it as gospel when somebody told you not to do it? He didn't show anything that would result in the carabiner being the thing to worry about.

[@BSMEngiNerd]

I really don't understand all this praise...that beginning part was super confusing, and somewhat incorrect just because of how you fumbled the explanation about load distribution. The rest of the video wasn't bad, but sorry man...not praiseworthy. Your explanations are so awkward and confusing I don't see someone understanding these concepts properly after having walked away from this.

[@derekatwood6236]

Maybe not watch because there are lots of us that enjoy and learn from these videos. This video in particular made perfect sense. Your negativity and criticism of the video is completely unnecessary, useless and I'm pretty sure nobody asked what you think anyway lol

[@AskTheKid]

You're awkward and confusing

[@BSMEngiNerd]

@@derekatwood6236 no one asked for your opinion of my opinion either, douche-canoe. The explanation isn't perfect, and quite frankly this whole thing deserves a re-shoot for clarity & accuracy. I typically like his other videos; this just wasn't a winner.

[@BSMEngiNerd]

@@AskTheKid I mean... you're not wrong.

[@derekatwood6236]

@@BSMEngiNerd well no one asked for your opinion of my opinion of your opinion! Haha whatever dude, go on ahead and rudely (and inaccurately) publicly criticize someone's elses hard work... you're a great person.