Climbing Half Dome - Snake Dike 5.7R - Yosemite, CA - May 2018

From mountain project:
Snake Dike (along with Royal Arches) is one of the classic long moderate routes of Yosemite. For many climbers, this is number one on the Yosemite tick list when they first come to the Valley. For others it is known as "Snake Hike," but the bottom line is it is a great climb up an amazing natural feature to the top of one of the most spectacular formations in Yosemite - second only to El Cap itself.
Get to the SW shoulder of Half Dome by following the Muir Trail to the Mist Trail past Nevada Falls, then back on the Muir Trail. From the top of Nevada Falls, continue for 0.75 mile to an obvious climber's trail that heads off to the left, contouring around behind the back of Liberty Cap to Half Dome. You'll pass a swampy area (Lost Lake), and then wander up slabs to the south face of Half Dome, heading back left across ledges to the base of the route. The approach is six miles and takes 2.5 to 4 hours.
P1: The route starts up a slab below a prominent upside-down L-shaped roof formation. A big tree is up in this roof area on the right. Climb up into the roof, then traverse out the left end and up onto a nice belay ledge. 5.7.
P2: Continue up the left-facing corner system above and past a pair of bolts (optional belay), then wander right past another bolt to a bolted anchor. 5.7.
P3: Climb up and left past a bolt and 5.7 friction to reach the dike itself. Skip another bolted belay, climbing up the dike past a bolt and easier climbing, and up to a bolted belay.
P4, P5, P6: Follow the dike for three more long pitches, all about 5.4, all VERY run out, stopping at bolted anchors. The final anchor is at a point past a steep section on a small ledge.
P7, P8: Lots of low angle climbing (easy 5th class) wander up the face with occasional gear placements.
Once you feel comfortable unroping, do so, and continue scrambling up 1000' of calf-burning slabs to the summit. Descent is down the Half Dome Cables route. You can't miss it. For logistical reasons, it's better to not leave anything at the base.
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[@NickDangerThirdGuy]

Did this route in '88, at that time close to half of the pitches had no belay anchors. I remember being psyched to belay off a chicken head at one point after running out a whole pitch. In addition my climbing partner re-separated her shoulder on route (previously injured skiing). This forced us to top out after dark only to find 3 ft of snow drifted on the summit and the cables still down. We ended up spending the night with our feet in our stuck packs and arms zipped inside of goretex shells shivering harder than I had previously thought possible. Burned the guide at about 2 in the morning which provided about 90 seconds of cheer.

[@LockeyPrice]

That sounds like a solid day of Third Class fun! Great story!

[@Ricgardner91]

But how did it end ???

[@hemming57]

You survived and have a great story to tell.

[@robertbeightler1473]

Great video! Have hiked Half Dome a couple of times but never did the snake Dyke. At age 72 I struggle to follow 5.6 LOL.

[@LockeyPrice]

Thanks Robert, keep climbing, Snake Dyke could go on the bucket list, if you are comfortable with extremely long run outs!

[@JoeArioto]

Great video. Love it... planning to climb Snake Dike next week.

[@LockeyPrice]

Have fun! When in doubt, run it out!

[@LockeyPrice]

Thanks!

[@jordanramey2460]

How’d it go?

[@jeffelfont6887]

Nice video....Did it 1st time in 1974. Toughest part is the hike......Snake Hike.

[@LockeyPrice]

Jeff Elfont Thanks man! Yeah the hike is a doozy. Props to those that do it all in one day!

[@jerrygreene1493]

Needs more bolts so people don't get injured like the girl who lost her foot. Is a bolt every 10ft too much?

[@LockeyPrice]

I’ve heard both sides. There was a really good article in Climbing Magazine. At least one every 10m would be nice …

[@jerrygreene1493]

@@LockeyPrice 10m is an 80ft fall with rope stretch. Bolts are not an environmental issue, the birds don't care, it is a safety issue vs; 'I climbed it without many bolts, so everyone else has to climb it like I climbed it'. Personnally I would rather have bolts every 10ft on most popular climbs, at least that girl would have her foot back.

[@LockeyPrice]

@@jerrygreene1493 I said at least. We climbed 30m without any pro, which I wasn’t a fan of. This is the article: www.climbing.com/people/retro-bolt-easy-moderate-rock-climbs-peter-croft-snake-dike-half-dome-debate/

[@jerrygreene1493]

@@LockeyPrice I agree with Croft and Long. If you care about other people enjoying safe recreation, then you don't care about who did it first and in what style.

[@stonematthiessen4925]

I went over Mist Falls a couple of years back, but I’m better now.

[@LockeyPrice]

That sounds intense. I saw a report of people dying going over the falls, but not someone who has lived.

[@reubena1512]

Hi, I climbed Snake Dike a couple of summers ago and found that one of the easier pitches nearer the top didn't have any bolts in the middle of the route. This meant that I lead the pitch with only the anchor at the bottom for protection. I am considering climbing this again if I get the chance and was wondering if I simply didn't see a bolt mid-pitch?

[@LockeyPrice]

Reuben A yeah, that was our experience. One short pitch had no protection at all. It's at 3:21. I don't think it's there anymore.

[@stevewright6632]

Some climber from newzealand just fell on that pitch, Im wondering if this comment is relevant at all. 24m lived but totally destroyed

[@reubena1512]

@@stevewright6632 yh I saw that, awful

[@chivasfools]

hey was up dude how long did it take you all to get to the summit?

[@LockeyPrice]

Started at 8:30am and summited at 1:00pm. In no danger of setting any records.

[@chivasfools]

@@LockeyPrice Hey was up dude question did you get a wilderness permit to sleep out in by half dome?

[@LockeyPrice]

@@chivasfools What's up!?! I remember that we did get permits, but I can't remember exactly which ones.

[@dagda16]

No rangers on the way down I assume?

[@LockeyPrice]

No rangers on the way down the cables, but lots of rangers on the way down the trail back to the valley. None of them had an issue with us climbing snakedike befoe the cables opened.

[@dammitpham]

What's the song name?

[@LockeyPrice]

Sorry, I can’t recall. I use Epidemic Sounds for all of my music.