Climbing Mt Despair

[@swirvinbirds1971]

Absolutely stunning view of Mt. Triumph.

[@samuelbarber14]

You're doing the same thing I started doing almost 50 years ago, climbing solo. I did everything in Washington over 9000 and most of the ones over 8000.I really enjoy reliving my climbs via your excellent videos. Wish I still had the energy. Father time and Mother nature have taken over for me. Please keep the videos coming!

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

A bunch of climbers just drop out in their 30's and 40's. Yeah, time takes its toll. but no reason to stop until they take my cane and wheel chair away. :) Thank you Samuel, it is always inspirational to talk to the climbing veterans that have been around the block.

[@wesleyburton100]

Incredible! Thanks a bunch for sharing, truly jealous

[@leestamm3187]

I did a lot of class 3 scrambling in my younger life, but never cared to get seriously into climbing. I've long followed your video exploits that let me do it vicariously. As others have noted, you take the time to highlight the beauties of the mountains rather than constantly high-fiving yourself like some other KZbin climbers. You are really excellent at this and I thank you for sharing your trips.

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

Thank you Lee, for the kind words. I am glad you liked the videos.

[@samslaby4882]

My gf and i love your videos, Randy. We climbed Baker with Mountain Madness this summer and learned a lot about ropes, belaying, rappelling, etc. Your style of climbing is what I hope to achieve. Also, your aesthetic sensibility is top notch. I love that you highlight wildflowers and streams instead of harping about gear and all the junk that often obscures the beauty of wilderness travel. Keep the videos coming. You are truly an inspiration! Here's to hoping we cross paths someday, cheers.

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

Thank you Colin. You made my day! I make the videos for just myself and the few alpine climbers that might tune in because they are interested in the climb... with the flowers and streams. Thank for the kind words. Randy :)

[@GeorgyGobozov]

Beautiful video, very inspiring! I climbed Triumph last summer and like the are a lot! Maybe I should go Despair one day! ! Thanks for posting this!

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

Thanks for commenting. I am glad you liked the video.

[@thomasdetrick315]

Super dope! Thanks for sharing

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

Thomas, so glad you enjoyed it....

[@thomasdetrick315]

@@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb Fred Becky’s first first accent. Definitely on my list to hit up next year! Super epic!

[@ryan_steele_mcginnis]

Absolutely gorgeous oh my gosh ❤️

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

Thanks Ryan.

[@ButeoAlbonotatus]

Brilliant! You have the best Cascades alpine videos on the net. These solo climbing trips are really amazing! And that approach to Despair looks pretty brutal... Very nice work.

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

Glad you liked it. Solo gives me the chance to go fast, further, but I must also be more careful. It is not for everyone. Thank you for your comment ButeoAlbonotatus.

[@DawnchaserTheAdventurer]

have had this one on my list for a while! Will need to take a whack at it next year for sure

[@travelclimb]

I was desperate to go grab several peaks this summer, but now, in despair, I watch you summit them, specifically Mt. Despair.

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

It is beautiful wilderness. I hope you have a wonderful summer.

[@samtheman5923]

Putting this on my list knowing that Fred Beckey was part of the FA team for this! It be a bit till I come around to it but happy to see a vid on it! Tell me, how is the climbing and is it hard? Like the climbing with climbing shoes and trad

[@ChristianGustafson]

Amazing trip with a brutal approach. Beckey writes of a steep snow gulley on Despair that makes a traverse to Jasper Pass and Pioneer Ridge possible. Did you see this feature or the route over Despair?

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

I am not familiar with that line. I did come across 2 climbers, in fact I believe I mentioned that in my video. Those guys came in from Mineral peak and if I recall, saw no person for 6 days. The also said that they climbed not Despair's main summit but the lower N. summit. When I was on the summit, it seems the N peak is easy, the traverse over was not 100% in view, but seemed reasonable to expect it to work out. I hope that helps you.

[@ianculhane8453]

Fantastic video, as they always are! Do you happen to have any photos/videos looking down the prominent W-SW ridge of North Despair? There's a glimpse of it in the shade at 12:53 - wondering if you had any other footage you'd be willing to share. I've found very little information on that side of the mountain, and am curious what the rock quality looks like. Thanks!

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

I might be able to look, once I get a better internet connection. Don't get your hopes up, I was on the summit for a quick lunch since this was an overnight effort for me..... I did on the way in, meet a team coming out, that did not climb the summit I was on, but the one you mentioned, the North Peak. I suspect that the traverse from the N. Peak to the main Peak might not be that simple.... and I did not check it out.... again, I will look for the summit photos but later this month. just ping me if I forget.

[@ianculhane8453]

@@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb I'm a bit more interested in the prominent ridge/rib running SW off North Despair (on a topo map it's very obvious), but any photos you have of the ridge between the north and main summits would probably also be helpful. Thanks for looking!

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

@@ianculhane8453 I found the photo from the summit. It is basically the same view. 5472 × 3080 pixels,13.3 MB; The quality might be a little better, but nothing lower on the ridge. The little rock that I do see, seems like it is nice, solid. If you want a copy just give me your email. Randy

[@ianculhane8453]

@@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb Thank you! My email is [e-mail]

[@chubtoad157]

Very nice!

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

Thank you Chub Toad!

[@madykz101]

Randy, you're my favorite mountain climber! Thank you for all the inspirational hikes! May I ask, how do you find all your hikes and what would you reccomend for someone who's really just entering the beginning of their climbing hobby? (My most "technical" hike is Mt. Adams and will soon be Mt. Baker this upcoming season)

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

I did a lot of hiking and climbing with the Boy Scouts. Later with my Brother and friends. We always picked a bunch of destinations. Mostly rock climbs near Leavenworth WA. The alpine climbs are different. We climbed many alpine peaks as a teenagers. If you have an interest in climbing Dragontail, Colchuck, or other peaks in the Enchantments, let me know. I can probably give you some good tips. There are hundreds of peaks worth climbing. I like Baker. I did in in 2 hours and 28 mins at age 22 or so. That was car to car, round trip, yeah, no rope. I have climbed it roped too. I don't really have a big interest in volcanoes. I have done all of them at least once, some 3 or 4 times. Rainer I think everyone should do. Huge creavases there are very interesting. I think the real sport are the hidden gems like Dome Peak or climbing in the Pickets. Expect to spend several days and you will need to know how to self arrest. Even if you fall head first on your back... you have to know well how to stop. Once you get a peak or 2 in mind, just let me know. Some climbs are worth repeating, and a bunch I will never do again. loose high angle rock is more dangerous that free solo on the Captain. There are plenty of ordeals to be avoided. Peace, take care.

[@Zogador]

I've been wondering about this route for years. Did you use that rope at all? My friend Andy also did the route this summer, but I think he took 3 days. Great video Randy!

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

Despair seem to be almost all class 3 with perhaps a few class 4 moves. Staying to the right of center on the climb keeps you out of the cliffs. Jim Brisbane wrote out a good trip report on this peak. ( I met Jim once on the summit of Terror)....His report: trailcatjim.com/mt-despair-via-southeast-face/

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

I did not use my rope, but had it and my harness to the summit Zogador.

[@86Argonaut]

I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, but what do you do for food protection in situations like this? I noticed you only had bivy and this looks like a trip to travel light on. No bear can? Rope to hang stuff? Bury it?

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

It is true that i travel light. No reason to take anything you don't need, right? Each to his own on how you climb. How do you climb alone? Most don't climb on their own. I suppose many things a solo climber does, might not make sense to others. Fred Beckey, stated that modern climbers can climb 5.15 but they don't know how to camp. There was a bunch of truth to that statement. Having your food not taken by animals, getting your directions, barings straight, tying a knot on the end of your rappel rope....and so on, are somethings we all deal with. As for "situations like this" not sure exactly what you mean. Thanks for commenting. Randy

[@86Argonaut]

@@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb Sorry I wasn't more clear. I just meant how do you store your food when you're out like this? I generally take a bear canister which can make for a heavy cumbersome pack. Sometimes I wonder if it's really even necessary. I guess it depends on where you go. If I'm on a solo trip, it's generally nothing harder than 3rd class. This trip you did up Despair really intrigued me for a solo trip.

[@RandyT_RandyLikesToClimb]

@@86Argonaut I don't take a bear canister. I suppose if I was in the Park Creek Pass area, or other places with a bunch of bears, I could tie it up with rope. Sometimes I have done that. Some places have few rodents, but you would be surprised. Mt Rainer has mice everywhere, but I had a huge rat cross a glacier to get my food. In those instances, I have my food in my bivy bag. I do go light. I don't carry a stove, or anything for cooking. No time and I don't want the weight. Just keeping it simple. Here is a funny story. I was climbing Liberty Bell. My partner was coming up behind me. I had some chocolate, put it back into my hip pack. The hip pack was open. A mouse chewed through my pack and got the chocolate. He could have just gone up 2 inces and ate it with the zipper open as I waited for my friend. /// I have tons of stories. Others like that too. I hope that answers your question.

[@w8stral]

Sorry, couldn't go, but as it turns out, my head would not allow me anyways.