Climbing Styles: The Dancer

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Okay so apparently I mispronounced her name for the whole video but Albert only told me after I'd recorded so... sorry everyone.
Ashima Shiraishi is pretty sick. We shouldn't prop literal children up as the best climbers ever. Thx for coming to my Ted Talk.
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MUSIC:
"Free Range" by Mona Wonderlick - bit.ly/youtube-monawonderlick
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported - CC BY 3.0
Free download: bit.ly/free-range-download
Paranoia - Prod. Riddiman x oldboyy / prodriddiman
Editing by Culann O'Brien / imculann

[@kellygage73]

“When you watch Ashima Shiraishi climb, the first thing you notice is her footwork.” Wrong. That’s the second thing I notice. The first thing I notice is her crazy pants!

[@ocherethania]

i’m a ukrainian who also speaks japanese, so in the first minute of the video i was first really impressed by you nailing the pronunciation of vasiliy lomachenko’s name and right after that i audibly gasped when u said shiraishi😭😭

[@kevin11739]

I really have to say that these videos are just such a treat to watch every single time! You can just see the effort and passion you put into these and I really hope more people find out about this channel soon! Keep up the great work, I won't miss a single video :)

[@JH-km9he]

Ok so you’ve already gotten a number of annoyed comments about the way you pronounce Ashima’s last name, so I’ll just had that it’s a-she-mah-she-rah-ee-shi

[@EgWyps]

I'm sorry but has anyone ever said her last name like that?

[@CoreySenderson]

He always says people's name wrong lol

[@KirstenRietveld]

It's how she pronounces her name herself though At roughly 40 seconds kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYq5maB7nbepj7s

[@toddgreen6862]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYq5maB7nbepj7s FWIW, how she says her name herself. But actually came to comment that it feels like you neglected to point out the disadvantages of her climbing style. There is (almost) always a trade off. For example in your Natalia vs Ashima example it took Natalia roughly 1 second to complete the sequence. It took Ashima ~6 seconds. That is *a lot* of time under tension. You'll see that Ashima falls not too long after that, looking a bit pumped. Natalia goes on to get silver doing many more moves. My point being, that I'm not sure she's "on another level" as you put it, so much as that other elite women choose to not climb that way as it doesn't suit the nature of modern comp climbs, both in the nature of the routes and that you have a fairly tight time limit. To counter my counter point, Laura climbed much like Ashima and she won. ;) Finally, I believe that was Chamonix 2021, not 2019. That all being said, she's definitely known for her flexibility and it feels like USA Nats almost changed the way that boulders were set because she kept breaking beta by doing insane splits or other feats of mobility. (See Albert Ok's Beta Break vid on her.)

[@AErchenkov]

Ouch, she also doesn't know how to correctly pronounce her last name?! 😨

[@BrianPaick]

For someone otherwise so obsessive about climbing, two minutes learning and practicing names would be well worth it -- especially given that you pronounce Kim Jain correctly!!

[@SachaGreif]

In case anybody’s wondering it’s “shee ra ee shee” and not “shee ray shee”. “Ishi” means stone by the way, so a fitting last name for a climber ;)

[@chdoenlen]

My mom Can’t pronounce “chipotle” to save her life. No matter how many times I try to correct her it’s always “chipol-te”. Surely you can find a kinder way of correcting someone, especially if you’re enjoying their content.

[@BrianPaick]

@@chdoenlen come now, this is on the level of a serious amateur basketball commentator or minor professional commentator pronouncing Kobe Bryant's first name as rhyming with "lobe." It betrays carelessness and a sharp comment is warranted.

[@leothegreygoose7657]

Could you do a video on the climbing style of Magnus Midtbø? It would be fun to see a breakdown of such a popular climber that I imagine most of us watch.

[@JH-km9he]

But on the analysis itself, spot on. I always wondered how much the age/size you are when you start climbing affects your route reading tendencies

[@vincentskater]

I love the animation arrows to show what the feet are doing!! Amazing and necessary touch to the video series, which are absolutely incredible!! Thanks :)

[@nicoswd]

Great analysis as always! The only thing that would make the content a little better would be a pop filter for your microphone, as the P's sound very harsh.

[@ascentionism]

Yeah the tin can audio days are over but it ushered in a new era of 'wow my voice sounds really harsh' It's a work in progress, I appreciate the suggestion!!

[@nicoswd]

@@ascentionism don't get me wrong, your voice is just fine! It's just the way the P's sound as they make you blow into the mic. That's usually an easy fix by using a $10 pop filter. Keep up the good work! Really love these videos!

[@Shakespearespaniel]

As a dancer (who climbs) I was a bit puzzled by the title. The observations about AK's childlike flexibility (physically and mentally) ring true, and of course there are different styles of dance, but say "dancer" and I think Grandmaster Kim Ja-in and a bunch of others before I think of AK.

[@everythingsfinett3903]

Hmm I would describe her more as a graceful spider, she’s just so natural, fluid and flexible that’s why they called her a dancer I believe. She just seems to belong in climbing more than even the best climbers out there because of how natural she is

[@everythingsfinett3903]

On top of that those achievements at her young age speak for themselves, maybe she’s a spiderman

[@CookieCreamCrumble]

being a dancer is not just good for flexibility, its also being hyper aware of your body positioning, co-ordination and enhances your ability to sequence a climb in the way that choreography is so easy to memorise for us so is beta too.

[@shirasael]

If you ask me, the real dancer is Fanny Gibert

[@Jagknorr]

Fanny dancing? Isnt that called twerking?

[@r456mjon]

I am not a climber but I am really enjoying your videos!!! I am even thinking in trying it for the firs time.

[@soapy2587]

Same!

[@niikon]

Dude, get a pop filter or something. Or an old sock... or move the damn mic from your mouth.

[@leothegreygoose7657]

Could you do a video on the climbing style of Magnus Midtbø? It would be fun to see a breakdown of such a popular climber that I imagine most of us watch.

[@Metalgear222]

Ai mori is similar in her beta breaking flexibility.

[@pasqualechironna3401]

As a climbing and boxing fan i immediately clicked like and subscribe

[@someasiankid6323]

best base is dancing, not wrestling

[@Prodeproteccion]

What happend with Ashima? She retired?

[@SendEdition]

This was really well done! You have a talent for seeing patterns and communicating them through these videos 🔥🔥🔥 Thanks for putting the work into this and I look forward to the next one

[@BastienAdrien]

I'm getting repetitive, but this channel is so criminally underrated. These analysis videos are so well thought through, edited and presented, every single one is a delight to watch and for someone like me, who's just joined the climbing community a few years ago, they give an incredible insight and inspiration Thanks for this awesome vids!

[@gabelindgren3819]

Great video

[@tichapadgett7875]

Love your videos! It's like nerding out about climbing with a good friend. And I'm sorry for all the negative comments. It's always easier to call your friend's dabs than to actually climb the route yourself ;)

[@ascentionism]

Honestly, this comment meant a lot :) Felt like a lot of negative feedback, especially on this video, so I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed it!

[@MrMitsospower]

I appreciate the video but for the love of god learn to spell her name or everyone's name if you do a video about them ! And dont try your way out like "I dont speak Japanese etc." Google it and find how to spell it correctly ffs.

[@officialthetubeofyou]

Good video but her last name is pronounced "shi-la-i-shi" not "shi-ray-shi".

[@virginiamooney4105]

Ashima Shiraishi 🤝 Alex Waterhouse Funky climbing shorts

[@jacoby310]

8:54 it's subtle but the bike is ever so more stable and easier transfer on the core when she needs to step up

[@fabiopalma4429]

What an insane leg split by Alex Megos!

[@ijumpthere]

[@inazuma3gou]

Flexibility is the ability to pretzel.

[@prawnstar502]

She climbs a lot.. she is buff

[@CruzPui]

Not "Rey", more like "Rye"

[@v0atmygym734]

Ngl hearing you pronounce her last name like that makes me think that you just went on google and searched up “flexible climber” to make a climbing style video

[@ascentionism]

this feels unnecessarily mean tbh

[@v0atmygym734]

If you’re hurt by this comment, there might be some truth to the joke. It’s a great video don’t get me wrong. I would’ve just thought you would be aware of a climber’s name if you made a video on him or her

[@seanyue27]

@@v0atmygym734 kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYq5maB7nbepj7s If you go by the original Japanese pronunciation, you would be right to say that Ascentionism did get Ashima’s name wrong However, if you watch from the 39 second mark of the link, Ashima clearly pronounces her name in a less Japanese and more ‘americalized’ way If you watch other interviews with Ashima, that’s how she introduces herself too. Perhaps if she was speaking Japanese, she would have pronounced her name the ‘correct’ way. But if this is how she chooses to pronounce her name in English, then that makes it the correct way in this language So in conclusion, no, ascentionism did not get her name wrong

[@v0atmygym734]

@@seanyue27 fair enough. But a lot of this can stem from her not bothering to correct people. But to each their own. Ascentionism writing that he got her name wrong in the description would entail that he already knows he’s wrong as well

[@seanyue27]

@@v0atmygym734 fair enough, totally get your reasoning, especially since many also mispronounce my surname haha. Also, I didnt get a chance to read the description before this so thanks for the heads up ^^

[@syindrome]

Undercut ≠ undercling

[@Danni24]

JAJAJA i love your flexibility definition: positions that others can't jajaja 😂😂😂