Рет қаралды 2,586
I've been waiting to climb this one for around 3 years, mostly because I didn't know exactly how the trad protected sections looked like, and everyone would give me a different opinion.
Some would say that you only need a sling around a tree and you'd be fine, some that you can free solo the trad section because it's way too easy...
And not being a trad climber (yet), I didn't know if it would be safe to go without someone more experienced.
So I finally got the gear, and went for it.
In my opinion, it's not safe to go if you are not familiarised with trad gear, or if you don't have someone that is used to trad climbing to go with you!
0:33 - 1:33 - Pitch 1: Easy climbing (14) on bolt protected up to the first ledge, (half way), then go left and up. You can use a tree with a sling for extra protection before the chimney.
1:34 Pitch 2: All trad protected!!! Easy climb (10). Climb the crack up on the left.
2:46 Pitch 3: Bolt protected. Up 3 bolts then traverse right. I had some hard time finding the bolts, but the climb was easy (13), so not a big problem. There's a big run out around 5th bolt.
5:05 Pitch 4 (FOURTH, not forth!! Sorry for the typo): Bolt protected, also has a big run out before the anchors that can be protected using a cam. We didn't cross over the crack before getting to the anchors, which I believe is the best part of the whole climb. Felipe just went straight up because he could see a set of anchors, which was not ideal because of the huge run out, and not doing the best part of the climb. (I have to go back for the proper thing now).
6:46 - 8:19 - Pitch 5 (Variation). The classic pitch 5 is all trad climbing up the crack on the right from where we were. Instead, we climbed up a bolt protected variation, which I believe is about a 16/17. If you go this way, you will get to a ledge and a set of anchors on the right, then one extra pitch to the top. (If you choose the crack, you will go all the way to the top, and I believe the climb is easier, about 14 or so as per The Crag.
8:20 - 8:52 - Pitch 6 (Variation). Easy climb (15) up on a bolt protected line.
The last 2 pitches we did I believe are sections of a different climb called Saccharine Nightmare. Mostly because we didn't have a better look at the books to know exactly where to go, which is not a good idea.
Always make sure you know where you're going, and never rely on only one person. Best thing is to make sure everyone knows the whole plan.
Thanks for watching.