Climbing - Tie into harness using the BOWLINE - 4 different ways

[@BenR9667]

Nice and clear instructions, thank you! Could you share the reasoning(s) behind tying with the variations instead of the standard bowline?

[@risesummit5170]

Normal bowline is for single sport routes. The bowline with two loops is for single sport routes, where you will have lots of falls, easier to untie. The bowline with yosemite finish is better used on multipitch climbs, you dont have the stopper knot on the outside which can sometimes undo. The rethreaded bwoline is safer, two loops attached to the harness, and far less likely to loosen.

[@CyclesMcHurtz]

The only one I know of used for climbing was the Yosemite finish version. I know that the stopper knot finish is critical for tie-in safety as an unloaded bowline can shake out. Curious what the Mean breaking strength for these would be?

[@risesummit5170]

Ask Ryan at HowNotTo

[@CyclesMcHurtz]

@@risesummit5170 According to their testing, the Bowline is weaker and can come undone, so not recommended.

[@risesummit5170]

@@CyclesMcHurtz At what strength/weight does it come undone? And is that on the single bowline with stopper or some of the others?

[@CyclesMcHurtz]

@@risesummit5170 The bowline variations without a dressed tail broke between 50% and 70%, while the traced figure-8 was about 80%. Some other folks have suggested it's due to the smooth first bend along the working strand (Kyle Hill channel). I have seen bowlines untie with 10-12mm line on flagging sails. Sometimes that's many hundreds of points cyclicly loading and unloading when in irons (head-to-wind). I would expect the Yosemite finish was designed to avoid this kind of problem, but it still has a sharper bend on the standing line and lack of directly opposing strands when under load.

[@risesummit5170]

@@CyclesMcHurtz Thanks for the info. Do you know what the kN strength was at which they broke?

[@lajosrofusz5826]

The BL is weak. You my fill the nipping loop 3times.

[@risesummit5170]

Why do you think its weak?