Clutch Release Fork Noise

[@Smoke_Rush]

This video could potentially save viewers tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars on unnecessary throwout bearing replacements! Thank you so much for this knowledge!!

[@DrivelineMaster]

Yup...... Not all clutch systems have pivot balls that are accessible from the fork access hole and not all clutch systems use a fork and pivot ball.

[@ThefarmLife.]

@@DrivelineMaster my mustang t5 transmission is doing this,does it matter what grease you use?

[@DrivelineMaster]

Any grease will work but lithium based greases work best for this location.

[@ThefarmLife.]

@@DrivelineMaster ok ,because man mines is so loud and aggravating

[@jeremybuck535]

Where is this located? My 94 mustang gt started doing this. I couldn’t find

[@MrBojangles901]

I've been looking exactly for the explanation behind this noise that I discovered AFTER I had my entire clutch changed out. Thank you sir for this!

[@jonathan3083]

Not sure why this video was recommended to me again, but I saw this video several years ago and it helped stopped the squeak on My 2006 Subaru Forester. I just removed the rubber boot covering and jammed as much grease in there as I could and the noise was gone. The squeak started the day I got my clutch replaced by a mechanic so he must not have greased it. I sold the car earlier this year but just want to offer a late "thank you" for getting rid of the noise that was driving me crazy. Merry Christmas!

[@DrivelineMaster]

Glad it worked out for you. So sad that the service tech didn't know enough to grease the pivot ball.

[@timothysmith4968]

Had a squeak in my ‘08 WRX; shit raised my blood pressure. Mechanic said it’s a TOB & that I need to replace the whole clutch/flywheel. The appt was today but I cancelled, and tried this instead. My squeak is 100% gone. Saved me $1,500. I did not think this would be so easy to correct, but it was. Thank you very much, sir; appreciate you.

[@DrivelineMaster]

That is fantastic. Yes, some WRX release fork pivot balls can be reached by simply removing the inter-cooler and pulling back the release fork boot. This give you access to the pivot ball. Glad it worked out for you. There is a clear difference from when this noise comes and goes and when a release bearing (TOB) noise comes and goes.

[@iCrazy414]

Thank heavens I found this comment I have same issue with my 11 wrx! Thank you!

[@HaHu24680]

me too

[@naders5]

My mechanic diagnosed my sound as a release bearing which would of cost 1000 aud. I had a feeling if wasn't the issue so I done some research and ended up here. I followed the steps and nothing, still the same sound, so I added more grease and still nothing. After i drove around for an hour and then it stopped. Fantastic. So to anyone who tries have some patience. It might take a while for the grease to spread where needed. Thanks

[@JasonDiggs]

I've been chasing this noise for a month. Thank you for posting this video.

[@DrivelineMaster]

This noise can be very annoying. I'm glad I could help.

[@KEN_CHILLER]

This is exactly what I needed. Thank you for showing me how to put the crickets to bed.

[@JSadeiu]

This noise was freaking me out on my 05 Tacoma. Very detailed explanation. Thank you!

[@TheXavier20000]

Same!!! I have an 01

[@ce2813]

just happened to me on my 15!

[@joser-s3k]

I was looking in my 2006 Toyota Tacoma and can’t find it, any suggestions?

[@420SouthGate]

Did it get fixed?? I have the same problem 😅

[@miked7745]

same with my 08

[@jeremykaeval3635]

Spent the whole night searching for the fix. I thought it was the pilot bearing or something up until i came across this. Thank you so much 👍

[@DrivelineMaster]

Sorry it took so long for you to find my video.

[@DrivelineMaster]

I just updated my description and tags to hopefully make it easier for others to find this helpful video.

[@miguelalejandropelaezralda5329]

Changed the release bearing twice, mechanic said the bearing was fine. Few months later, noise came back again. Found out this was the real cause and lubricated the same spot. Thank you very much.

[@DrivelineMaster]

I'm sorry you experienced a tech who didn't know how to diagnose the difference between a pivot ball noise and a throwout bearing noise.

[@gasisthepastendoil]

i hate mechanics

[@gasisthepastendoil]

​@@DrivelineMastermine is a noise when pressing the clutch....but only when driving n shifting...really loud boat motor noise...da da da da...... I really don't want to replace the pressure plate unless I know that's the problem since I'll have to do it completely by myself.....

[@DrivelineMaster]

Please don't hate and group all mechanics into one large pile of piece of shit people. There are a fair amount of auto mechanics/technicians who take pride in honesty, integrity and genuinely want to do right by the customer. Please keep in mind that auto repair shops do need to be profitable in order to stay in business and the good shops will continuously update and train their technicians. We are like doctors, diagnosticians and engineers when we have to solve difficult problems and therefor we need to be fairly compensated for our expertise. That said there are some bad apples out there who don't care about training and bettering themself nor do they care how they treat customers. Those bad apples give the rest of us a bad reputation.

[@DrivelineMaster]

Sorry this was not meant for you. I replied to the wrong message.

[@EttorePasa]

I searched for this video for more than a year 😭😭 glad I finally found it! It’s definitely my fix, thank you

[@Empath-gh8jq]

I’ve been saving for a new throw out bearing and your video saved me so much money! Thank You!

[@fudgepads19]

daamn same

[@ali-vn9vf]

God bless you man you saved my money. The mechanic(if he really is) told me that I need a new disk, but I changed the disk a month ago and then this sound was created. Thank you again. I'm just worried if I greased that too very much

[@RomeOpalec]

Thank you for this. I had the the same noise coming from the clutch area. I went ahead and lubricated the bearing just like you did and voila, the noise is gone! Will share this video to help other folks experiencing the same issue! Thanks again

[@DrivelineMaster]

I'm glad it worked out for you. I had no idea how common this issue is until after posting this video.

[@logmeindangit]

Jeeminy. I hope my '06 Accord 4-cyl. Has this problem, and is not the thrustalizationizing bearing. My mechanic, who is the best I have ever found, is also pricey. Wants 3 (followed by a comma and 3 zeroes) to do the whole clutch renewal. If I do get in there to do it myself, it is ridiculously involved, and hope I don't get stumped with WTFs and magic tool needs. I've done trans R&R on older vehicles, RWD where the transmission was behind the clutch behind the engine, and although a couple bolts were hard to get to, 12-point box-end wrenches and standard sockets on 1/2" ratchet drives worked in the tight spots. On my Honda car, I have to remove a wheel, CV axle, even the battery, its shelf, air box, even unbolt the intake manifold! So re-frikkin'- dick-ulous.

[@yosipko5282]

Had old clutch replaced, been driving around 2000km, and noise started. After seeing this, im pretty sure i drove over few very dusty road construction = might have dirt in that part. Thank you for this nice video!

[@DrivelineMaster]

There is supposed to be a rubber dust boot covering that hole. Mine was missing for this video.

[@Izzy323x]

I know I'm 9 years late, but holy moly, thank you so much for this!!

[@darcioessa8966]

Thanks so much. After long periods of time working with the master cylinder and clutch tweekings and changing the throw out bearing and cluch press for the gears to work. All of a sudden this noise came out. It was a bummer because we think that the throw out bearing was damage because of water. And now i saw your video problem solved. May Allah bless u

[@DrivelineMaster]

Yippee! I had no idea how many people have this problem and how many automotive professionals think this is a throwout bearing noise.

[@filipdjokic6495]

Thank you a lot for your help! I replace the clutch a few weeks ago after that I have this annoying noise and with your video I figure out what is the problem.

[@DrivelineMaster]

Unfortunately too many technicians who change clutches don't know how to properly lubricate the clutch release fork pivot. This also puts into question if they properly lubricated the clutch splines and the release bearing contact points and sleeve.

[@altonweaver7757]

As a matter of fact. I am due for my regularly scheduled oil change. 🙏🏽praying it works. Other options too expensive. Will keep u informed. Thank you sir

[@dylancarias]

very helpful I was suspecting my drive belt or alternator bearing and was about to change it but man you saved me a lot. cheers mate

[@DrivelineMaster]

glad to be helpful. I wonder how you found this video when you suspected a drive belt or alternator bearing?

[@dylancarias]

@@DrivelineMaster oh I guess youtube algorithm favored me :)

[@madmartigan4948]

I have a 89 S15 pickup it is seriously thought it was the throwout bearing squeaking thanks for this video my worries are no more

[@DrivelineMaster]

Glad this was helpful.

[@urltheplural]

This sounds exactly like my problem. Hopefully it works. Thanks for the clear video and short explanation.

[@eddiehardy8497]

Gah damn!!!! Thank you for this. Cricket sounds from a mint condition Mach 1 can drive you nuts if you are a car person!!!

[@enjoyrevenge8146]

My 2003 mach1 jus started doin this too

[@nathanielramos9482]

Just had a clutch replacement & I’m going through exact same thing it’s so annoying!

[@vsaucehere2634]

EXACTLY

[@kenneth23]

wow thanks! My Mitsubishi lancer ex 2014 have this issue after replacing the clutch, gonna try this tomorrow! thanks man!

[@jonsalemi5434]

Hi, were you able to fix it?

[@cristophervallejo2787]

Did you fix it?

[@DrivelineMaster]

Glad this helped. Yes, those crickets are very annoying.

[@SpicyMcGeezak]

Thanks for the informative video. I have a car that makes an intermittent scraping noise once I start to accelerate again after switching gears. Any clue what that might be? It started right after the car sat for a week while we were on vacation.

[@DrivelineMaster]

Could it also be described as a screeching noise? What is the position of the clutch pedal when you hear this noise? Are you pressing it down? if so how far down is the pedal when you hear the noise? or are you letting the pedal up? and how far off the floor is the pedal when the noise is heard? Or maybe your foot is not touching the pedal. How about the gas pedal? are you accelerating, decelerating or holding a steady pedal. Are you giving it gas to take off from a stop? If you can respond to these questions with as much details as possible I might be able to help figure out what your noise is.

[@SpicyMcGeezak]

@@DrivelineMaster I am really sorry it took three weeks to get back to you about this.. I have thought of needing to respond every day but kept getting sidetracked. So it isn’t a screeching noise, it more sounds like metal plates scraping together. It usually happens after switching to 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear. After I change gears and release the clutch the sound comes when I accelerate and is usually more prevalent between 2k and 2500 rpms. It’s so strange because it is intermittent and doesn’t happen all the time. But it does make the sound more often than not. I am not losing any power, the clutch is not slipping in any way, and it seems like it’s running just as it was before the noise began. The only other bit of information is that my throw out beating is making some noise. I can hear that when the car is sitting still in idle and I have it in neutral with the clutch petal released. That’s really the only info I can think of that might be helpful

[@DrivelineMaster]

This is strange. Let me ask you this about your throw out bearing. When you hear the noise of the throw out bearing what happens to the noise when you apply a small amount of pressure on your clutch pedal? Does the noise go away? get louder? or change in tone? What happens to the throw out bearing noise as you continue to depress the pedal the rest of the way to the floor? Next question. Are you certain the noise is coming from the clutch and transmission area? Do you know what pre-ignition or spark knock is or sounds like? If not try a tank of high octane fuel and see if the noise goes away. If it does then this is your noise. If you are familiar with the noise of spark knock and you know that is not your noise then skip the high octane gas test.

[@SpicyMcGeezak]

@@DrivelineMaster I’ll see what happens tomorrow with the throw out bearing noise. Another thing I have going on is the clutch petal making kind of a popping noise when I push it in and release it. That started right after I took my car to Midas to have the alignment done and I’m pretty sure when they took it for a test drive they were ripping on my car 🤬 I suspected that because I had a floor jack in my trunk that was flipped sideways after they had it in the shop. The popping sounds like it is coming from somewhere right above the pedal. As far as the pre-ignition knock goes, I am familiar with the sound and I’m fairly certain it is not that as I always use high octane gas and it really doesn’t sound like that. By the way, I really appreciate you taking the time to try and diagnose this.

[@altonweaver7757]

Yes, my clutch is engaged, changing gears, up or downshift, and makes a similar noise to the video. More like a whirring sound. When I release/unengaged, the clutch, no sound. Thanks for your response/info/efforts. By the way it’s a Chevy S10 truck that otherwise is a champ. Use it everyday.

[@DrivelineMaster]

Clutch engaged (pedal up) you hear a noise. Clutch disengaged (pedal down) noise is gone. Clutch engaged and pedal is depressed about 1 inch you still hear the noise. If this is the case it sounds like you have a transmission bearing. I can't be certain but the most common one would be the input shaft bearing. Try changing the oil in the transmission. Make sure to get oil with the correct GL rating. Most of those transmissions specified GL4 not GL5 but check the manual to be certain. If the oil change didn't help you try changing it again but this time use something like 140 gear lube. It might help.

[@mertmehmed9469]

A BIG thanks for the video. Just got rid from all these crickets under my car. You will also get a big thanks from my neighbours which won't hear the noise mornings at 5 o'clock . :D

[@DrivelineMaster]

I'm so glad this worked for you. When I made this video I never would have guessed that so many people have this problem.

[@orionbastille1312]

It worked 100% for me. Thank you very much. My mechanic qouted me $400 for it. Wow!

[@DrivelineMaster]

That is FANTASTIC I love to here about this kind of outcome.

[@carsoncarcar5523]

thank u so much, everyone was telling me it was my TOB

[@DrivelineMaster]

It's a common mistake but so easy to verify the difference between a TO bearing noise and a release fork and pivot ball noise.

[@sebastianwalker7773]

I'm super grateful for this video! I've been saving for both school and getting my NB Miata diagnosed, this is definitely my issue. Subscribed :)

[@BURTONizAjerK]

This is what I needed to see. I'm gonna look on my 2015 Honda accord v6.

[@DrivelineMaster]

Honda's are notorious for this problem.

[@BURTONizAjerK]

@@DrivelineMaster thanks for letting me know. The service advisor charged me $160 and told me they couldn't find any issues. Smh 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@BURTONizAjerK]

@@DrivelineMaster your video is most likely going to save me. I'll report back when i get it done. I'm ordering white grease off Amazon first.

[@MrGaurav2807]

Hey... I'm new to cars... Can you please let me knew where can i find the release fork and the pivot ball inside the engine bay... Thanks

[@DrivelineMaster]

Not all vehicles have a release fork and pivot ball. If you have an external slave cylinder or cable operated clutch mechanism then you have a fork and pivot ball. Look on the side or even the top of the transmission bell housing for the slave cylinder or cable linkage connection. if you have one pull back the rubber boot that protects dirt from entering into the clutch mechanism. The pivot ball is inside the clutch housing. Some you can access through the hole like the one in the video and others you can't and the only way to fix those it to remove the transmission.

[@nikorarongonui6296]

Great video now i know what the minor problem is on my 2012 hilux 4x4,i shall get uner it asap and clean and grease the snot out of my pivot bolt,good as new

[@shyam5631]

Thank you so much for this video. This saved me a lot of time and money.

[@DrivelineMaster]

😄

[@ynohtna2636]

My 2012 wrx does this exactly!I ignored for a bit but now it's really consitant and annoying me.Thanks for this video!

[@fox10169]

ynohtnA my 00 rs does the same lol

[@cameronedwards1114]

I have a 2012 wrx as well. Did this fix your issue? Will have to look at mine if it did.

[@aubreyj.tennant1123]

👍 simple fix! Great job in explaining!

[@davidcid804]

I have exactly this problem on my VW Golf.. Is it possible to do it myself or do I need to take away parts? No experience with cars so I only dare to do small minimum fixes myself.

[@DrivelineMaster]

What year golf because early year golfs didn't use a release fork or pivot ball design. I'm not sure if current year models have changed over to a fork and pivot design or not.

[@davidcid804]

@@DrivelineMaster mine is a MK5 2012 model. Is it reachable without moving heavy parts? Thanks for a fast response.

[@DrivelineMaster]

@@davidcid804 In America I don't see the MK5 model listed in my service manual so I can't see the design. When I look at a Golf I see a system that does not use a release fork and pivot ball. If your MK5 has an external slave cylinder and a release fork and pivot ball you may be able to do this. You will have to be able to remove the slave cylinder and the rubber boot that keeps the dirt out of the clutch from the release fork access hole in the side of the bell housing. If you have gotten this far you will need a light and you need to be able to look inside the bell housing to see if you can see and access the pivot ball. Some clutch systems put the pivot ball on the opposite side of the release fork. If this is the case it can't be lubricated without removing the transmission. If you can see the pivot ball get some grease on a flux brush, push the fork back and apply grease to the fork pivot ball area. Reassemble and the noise should be gone. You might be able to get a mechanic to look up your clutch and tell you if you have a pivot ball and what side of the bell housing it is on before diving in. Good luck.

[@bulletthead1]

Had to come back and at least leave a comment that this actually worked for me! Thanks!

[@DrivelineMaster]

Thanks for the feedback. That makes me happy.

[@user-el3kv7pd9g]

tried this and works great. thanks for this video

[@johanerasmus2522]

The fork is NOT supposed to move like that when it is released. This clutch combanation needs to be replaced, although you have 'fix' the noise temporarely.

[@DrivelineMaster]

Some move more than others. It's all about how even the height of the pressure plate spring fingers are. As the disk wears the fingers can become more uneven. No one is going to replace the clutch or pressure plate because of this. The cost is too much and some movement is normal. There are no standards for how much movement is acceptable and there are no ill effects from this movement. The biggest problem is technicians who replace clutches don't know how to properly lubricate the pivot mechanism. In this case the rubber boot for the fork was missing which let in all kinds of water and dirt which accelerated the drying out of the lubrication at the pivot ball.

[@michaeljames9671]

The noise is actually fro the TO bearing face lightly contacting one or more of the clutch diaphragm fingers when spinning. When you put pressure on the pedal, the face stops spinning as the TO bearing engages the diaphragm. Greasing the fork just dampens the vibration, the noise is not from the pivot ball or fork.

[@DrivelineMaster]

I'm sorry James but that is not correct. Not all TO bearings lightly contact the diaphragm springs when the pedal if fully released. Only hydraulic clutch release mechanisms will do contact the spring when the pedal if fully released. If the TO bearing is bad it will make more noise, not less noise with slight pedal pressure because the TO bearing is now placed under pressure and spinning at a higher value. Bad bearing noises get worse when: 1) they are placed under more pressure and 2) when they are spun faster.

[@italia3929]

@@DrivelineMaster nice comeback 😂

[@JoseManuel.M]

Had this issue with my Land Cruiser Prado, was driving me crazy, even bought another clutch kit thinking it was the problem. At the end, it was the Pitchfork, the OEM pitchfork comes w a hard plastic cover where the pivot ball rest (would suggest changing the pivot ball also) that avoids this sound.

[@DrivelineMaster]

It was probably a revised part number for the release fork to correct for that problem. I have seen holes eaten through the release fork and worn down pivot balls because of the lack of lubrication. When I worked for BMW they used a specialized plastic pivot ball that we replaced on every clutch job.

[@Le_Booche]

Dude this video is badass

[@samnardi9401]

Thank you very much for pin pointing this noise for me.

[@sambeauchemin8417]

Very helpful video! my 2012 civic has got exactly the same issue, the noise goes away if you slightly press the pedal, however I cannot find access to the clutch fork easily (I don’t even know where it’s at tbh) and I wonder if I can go on with this noise without any real big issues for a while

[@DrivelineMaster]

If you let this go on it will eventually wear a hole in the release fork. If that happens your clutch will no longer work. I can't say how long that will take. It might go for a year or so or wear through in a month or so. I think your release fork and slave cylinder is on the transaxle under the air intake system. If you remove the air filter box and induction system you should have access to the slave cylinder. You will need to remove the slave cylinder but don't disconnect the hydraulic fluid lines. After unbolting the slave cylinder DO NOT push on the clutch pedal. Once the slave cylinder is out of the way the rubber boot around the release fork can be removed. Once removed you can look into the transmission bell housing for the release fork pivot and see if there is enough room to get some lucubration in there.

[@liger0yager]

This... actually sounds very similar to what is going on with mine. Except I have to press a bit more on the clutch. I am betting it is likely more input shaft bearing noise. :c

[@DrivelineMaster]

If you have to push your clutch pedal 2/3 to 3/4 of the way down for the noise to go away then the problem is inside the transmission. Input shaft bearing in the most likely suspect but if you have a transmission as compared to a transaxle it could also be counter shaft bearing noises or even noises from the bearings that support the gears.

[@liger0yager]

​@@DrivelineMaster I took it to a transmission repair shop, they test drove the vehicle and they said it's the throwout bearing. From what I have read, throwout bearings should only make noise when the clutch is engaged/pedal pushed to floor. What I am experiencing is, clutch is making noise when released, pedal is off the floor. When I push the clutch in to engage, the sound makes a slight rotational noise that is winding down, that then ceases shortly after holding it pushed to the floor. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3TOnGCenLN8aKc is similar to what I am experiencing. Chances are the one installed in this car is the wrong one, as the previous owner mixed dexcool and some other shit coolant together. Stock clutch for my car is an Exedy Sport (according to AAMCO a 'racing style clutch' that they won't warranty on install) also yes, this is a "transaxle" due to the car being FWD.

[@DrivelineMaster]

@@liger0yager Here is how to tell if it's a release bearing. But first I need to clarify. I'm glad you stated the position of the pedal but clutch engaged and disengaged are opposite of the pedal position. My students get that confused all the time. Clutch engaged is when engine power is engaged with the transmission input shaft (pedal up) and disengaged means the engine power is disengaged from the transmission (pedal down). Now for a release (AKA throw out) bearing noise. When the noise occurs is slightly different depending on if you have a hydraulically operated clutch or a cable or old mechanical linkage design. If it's hydraulic then you could be (not always) hearing a slight noise with your foot off the pedal and when you push your pedal down 1" - 2" the noise will change in tone and loudness. This noise will most likely continue as long as your foot is on the pedal. Once you remove your foot from the pedal the nose level will decrease but may not go away. If you have a cable or old mechanical clutch system you most likely will not hear any noise with your foot off the pedal and when you press slightly on the pedal about 1" - 2" you will now hear a noise that will most likely continue as long as you have your foot on the pedal. I have seen a few cases when the bearing was just starting to go bad where it was very difficult to hear and it almost seemed like the noise went away when the clutch pedal was pressed all the way to the floor. The key here is the noise you hear when you first press on the pedal. I refrained from using clutch engaged or disengaged as well as pedal depressed because these terms tend to be confusing until you fully understand them. Just for the record pedal depressed is the same as pressing down on the pedal.

[@liger0yager]

​@@DrivelineMaster Ahh! Thank you for the clarification, and thank you for your help. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a6PMoX1qmNGekM0 in its pedal down and out is pedal up. It's a very subtle sound right now so very hard to hear.

[@MediumHalf]

Excellent video and explanation.

[@shotemup123]

Thank you. My 2002 mustang with a 2012 mustang engine was making this noise and I was super worried it was a throwout bearing. Should be a simple fix.

[@havipran1726]

I have the same issue with my 1997 mustang . Did you get it fixed? Im guessing you took off the the dust box off near the transmission and put some grease where the fork and the pivot ball meet? Correct? The pivot ball on the mustang is deep on the other side of the fork , in the transmission. How did you get the grease all the way to that pivot ball? Long brush like this video? Or you used something else Please? Please help. I need assistance. Thank you.

[@teadoughh8915]

@@havipran1726 do you have a v6 or a gt? I have a 97 v6 I’ve been having the exact issues for about 3 months now, did it go well? Did you fix the problem? Any tips? And what type of lube did you use for the issue?

[@joumanamhamdi2628]

Thank you for posting this, I have the same issue, I will try greasing it

[@capricornshura9078]

So when my clutch is engaged it makes weird rattling like noise, but when I press it down the noise goes away(it happens when in neutral car not moving)what could that be?

[@DrivelineMaster]

Foot off the pedal in Neutral you hear the noise. You press the pedal down 1/2 - 3/4 in. you still hear the same noise. You press the pedal down all the way and the noise goes away. If this is all correct then the noise is coming from inside your transmission and it's not a clutch noise.

[@capricornshura9078]

@@DrivelineMaster thanks for the info

[@ricardoli2187]

97 miata, same issue, going to try to find where its located, cant wait to see if it fixes this annoying sound

[@hear1me1now]

Yes ! Thank you

[@edwardjenner1381]

I have the same thing, but only on a new clutch/flywheel install. I'm not sure if your pivot fork ball is similar to the clutch bearing I have. But I question why there is so much vibration that is making it rattle. In my case I noticed the new flywheel 'wobbles' a little. Not enough to feel when driving and not more at high revs, but enough to vibrate the clutch bearing, particularly at lower revs. My old flywheel/clutch does not wobble at all and so does not vibrate the bearing in the fork. I guess my concern would be that you are hiding a warped or unbalanced flywheel. But maybe it is a different enough setup or my old flywheel is 'perfect' and the new one is 'good enough'.

[@DrivelineMaster]

If the flywheel were warped or unbalanced you would most certainly be experiencing a whole lot of other very noticeable problems and vibrations. I'm going to assume that you are calling the throw out (release bearing) the clutch bearing. What causes the fork to wobble is how level the pressure plate (clutch cover) springs are. This has nothing to do with the flywheel but instead the quality of the clutch cover and the clutch disk. This is because that is what the release bearing is riding on and the release bearing is connected to the release fork. I see this a lot with different variations of vibration. The key indicator that it is the pivot ball on the fork making your noise is the fact that the noise is only heard with your foot off the pedal and it goes away with slight pedal pressure. This means the pedal was only pushed down about an inch. Even with a new clutch this can happen if the technician does not lubricate the pivot ball and fork or they use the wrong type of lubricate. Another factor is if the boot that is designed to keep water and road dirt out of the clutch assemble is missing. Not shown in my video because it was missing on this one. With the boot missing water and road grit can enter into the clutch and pivot washing away the lubricant.

[@edwardjenner1381]

@@DrivelineMaster Thanks for the reply. Yes, I meant throw out bearing. Makes sense, if those springs are not exactly level they will vibrate the TOB. I figured a bad flywheel would create a lot of vibration.

[@djbenhur4068]

I'm having this same problem with my 2018 ranger maybe not the same problem, but the noise is completely the same and only when I press the clutch pedal I took it to the Ford dealership where I bought it 3 times and I will return there on 07/07/2020 for them to try to fix it again, I'm from são paulo Brazil beautiful post I hope that now they can fix this still under the 5 year warranty

[@MrFouzi123]

You are the man thanks buddy

[@vnyeu]

This noise is also the sign or symptom of Throughout Bearing that touch pressure plate going to fail. I follow this clip and noise is reduce. But a week later found out throughout bearing behind the folk is cook

[@aryeffishak8185]

Thank you information sir. you video help me. if you can share is this shake piece of metal is normal.

[@dillonpierce7869]

Mine must need this or something else with it. Rebuilt a crashed truck and the clutch area has been making noise and slightly putting pressure on it stops it but earlier today it started making a noise kinda like that all the time and engaging/disengaging. Gunna dive under and take a peek in the morning now I have something to look for for sure.

[@andi.sxe10]

Where exactly should i put the grease on, my clutch fork is connected with the throw out bearing and in the video you say between fork and pivot bearing?

[@DrivelineMaster]

If you have a clutch fork you will have a pivot ball and a throw out bearing and they will be connected even if you can't see the connection. There are however some vehicles that don't have a clutch fork (release fork) and therefore they do not have a pivot ball to lubricate. If you reply with your year, make, model and engine size I will try to look it up for you and see what I can find out.

[@andi.sxe10]

@@DrivelineMaster Thanks for your answer man, i drive a toyota altezza build in 03, 3sge/ J160 6 Speed Manual ( the same transmission as the lexus is200 ) So far i know is my pilot bearing in the flywheel and my throw out bearing before the pressure plate ( thats the location that i can reach from the „fork cover“ )

[@DrivelineMaster]

Unfortunately the Toytoa Altezza is not sold in the USA and I only have access to repair information on vehicles sold in USA. Toyota is not one of the brands that did away with the release fork however some release fork designs put the pivot ball on the opposite side of the bell housing from the where the release fork extends through the bell housing access hole. You need to pull the rubber boot back from where the release fork extends out of the bell housing and find a way to look inside for the pivot ball. If all you see is the throw out bearing and you can't see a pivot ball then that means your pivot ball is on the opposite side of the bell housing and there is no way to lubricate it without removing the transmission.

[@andi.sxe10]

@@DrivelineMaster Thanks for your time, i think the lexus is200 was sold in the usa the „J160-6 speed gearbox“ is the same like the one from altezza. But i‘m pretty sure that the pivot ball is on the other side like you say.

[@SimplyEddieG]

what that background noise that goes away when u step on the clutch pedal? @ around 2:00

[@DrivelineMaster]

I think you are hearing the release bearing (throw out bearing) on the pressure plate diaphragm springs. as it sites on the release fork there is no load on it until the pedal is pressed so it is subject to rattle from engine vibration. This is not abnormal and changing the bearing would not remove the noise your are hearing.

[@teferi13]

@@DrivelineMaster what is the main cause of the sound when idle & goes off when clutch depressed ?

[@DrivelineMaster]

If you hear a noise in neutral with foot off clutch pedal and noise doesn't change if you press the pedal down 1 inch but goes away when the pedal is all the way pressed down is a transmission noise and not a clutch noise.

[@miked7745]

the squeak is gone, but that rattle? with this cause metal fatigue over time or rattle more as it wears?

[@DrivelineMaster]

The lubricant should prevent wear and metal fatigue.

[@exploringjenkins413]

Now that I junked my s10 after driving it for 7 years do I find this.

[@christophersmith4658]

😂

[@alperaslan3584]

Thanks to the video , same noise in my renault clio 4 2016 model manuel , is it easy to reach that area myself ? Or ı should go to service ?

[@DrivelineMaster]

Really hard to say how easy it is to get to. Some are easier than others and there are some designs that you can't get to unless the transmission is removed. Those have the pivot ball on the opposite side of the bell housing from the fork opening.

[@italia3929]

Hey bud, I have a 2006 Accord v6 6-6.... New luk clutch and flywheel, slave cylinder and the crickets are here until I touch the clutch. On a cold start it is most noticable and I also notice engine chatter in the rear towards the firewall. Is this related?

[@DrivelineMaster]

Sounds like the pivot ball didn't get properly lubricated when the clutch was replaced. This is more common that you would think. I don't think your other chatter is related but it's hard to tell via KZbin conversation. On your vehicle the release fork and slave cylinder are on the front of the transaxle just below the starter. If your lucky you may be able to lubricate the pivot ball without removing the transaxle. You might need to remove the starter if it's in the way and you most likely will have to unbolt the slave cylinder. Then remove the rubber boot around the release fork and bell housing that keeps the dirt out of the clutch. Push the fork towards the engine and see if you can get some lubrication on the pivot ball through the release fork opening.

[@ARDrummer]

Thanks for the video....I have this issue on my 09 Corolla and I used a spray can of lithium grease and it makes the sound go away, but only for a day or so. Guess I need to actually take the boot off and use thicker grease like in the video? What causes the movement in the fork? Is this something that will need to be fixed?

[@DrivelineMaster]

You Corolla has a hydraulic clutch and by design the release bearing which is the part that transfers the release form motion to the pressure plate springs will gently ride on the pressure plate diaphragm spring fingers. As the pressure plate rotates the gentle contact between the bearing and the pressure plate causes a small amount of back and forth movement which is transfers to the release fork. This causes the fork to wobble slightly with your foot off the pedal. If the pivot ball is dry it will squeak. Once slight pressure is applied to the pedal pressure is also applied between the pivot ball and the release fork. This pressure prevents the slight movement that causes the squeaking noise. This movement is normal and there is nothing that can be done except lubricate the pivot ball.

[@ARDrummer]

@@DrivelineMaster thanks so much for the info!

[@altonweaver7757]

Mine is just the opposite. Noise happens when I press the clutch in.

[@DrivelineMaster]

Then you have a throw out (Release Bearing) noise. The transmission has to be removed to replace it. If you go though all that work you should replace all the clutch parts and resurface or replace the flywheel as well.

[@copperyrocket5018]

i have this problem and i want to fix it. what lube did you use? i don’t want to cause damage by using the wrong type of lubricant

[@DrivelineMaster]

Almost any lube will work but I do recommend a lithium based high temp wheel bearing grease or white lithium like what I used in the video. The better grease would be the high temp lithium based wheel bearing grease.

[@xxtyler420xx]

Unsure if you are still around, but I have a 98 mustang GT that is doing exactly this. I cannot reach pivot ball from inspection hole on bell housing. Can I just spray white lithium grease in an aerosol can up there??

[@DrivelineMaster]

You can try but be very careful to not get grease on the clutch disk or pressure plate.

[@jakewaddoups1066]

Can you tell me where to lube on mine? Having the exact same issue/noise. Shop said it’s the trans and don’t want to fix it for me. It’s a 08 dodge 2500 6speed manual . G56 trans with a new southbend clutch . Thanks appreciate it !

[@DrivelineMaster]

If your chirping truly chirps with your foot off the pedal and goes away when you push the pedal down about 1 inch then you have a pivot ball and fork noise. If however you have to push the pedal 3/4 the way down before the noise goes away then you have a trans problem. If it is a pivot ball and fork noise I have other bad news. The way your release fork and pivot ball is designed there is no way to access it to add lubrication without taking the transmission out. If the clutch in new the fault is with the repair technician for not applying either the proper type of lubrication or the proper amount of lubrication or both to the pivot ball and fork during the clutch replacement job.

[@dougbruce6051]

I need to try this. I have a very similar noise on my 1996 mustang after installing a new transmission. Thought it was throwout bearing but hopefully it's an easy fix like this 😁

[@adamstampley7207]

Did that fix it? My Dodge Caliber is making that exact same noise

[@hellyabrother27]

I never considered that it could be this. Going to have to try this. Always thought it was my TOB as well

[@marksavastano8339]

Doug Bruce I have a 96 stang Gt 4.6 trew a new clutch in it had it done of course was getting a tic tic tic sound when crawling in 1st gear second also thow you could barely here it then now it sounds like something rubbing on tin press down on the clutch very slight just barley touch the clutch it goes away did you ever figure your noise out and if so what was the culprit please thank you Doug I hope you get this or any one that may know

[@boggartanor8230]

It could be the same problem with my strada triton 2013?brought it to the mechanic and he said it was the release bearing or the spring of the clutch disc?

[@DrivelineMaster]

Here is the clue on how to tell the difference between a release bearing and pivot fork noise. With the release fork pivot ball noise: The noise goes away as soon as a small amount of pedal pressure is applied. With a release bearing you hear the noise or the noise changes in tone when a small amount of pressure is applied to the pedal.

[@DaleHoskin-ub2qd]

I have the exact same issue but except my car is a 2012 SR Hilux 4 x 4 turbo diesel. I tightened up the clutch pedal and it went away. Where can this be located?

[@DrivelineMaster]

I'm not sure how you tightened up the clutch pedal but this will eventually cause you a whole new set of problems. Look under the truck for where the release fork extends out the side of the bell housing. Pull the rubber boot back and look inside to see if you can see the pivot ball. If so, your lucky. try to get some grease lubricant onto that pivot ball. Then reset your clutch pedal because you don't want to have that so tight that you don't have any free play.

[@Turtlefarm]

Here’s one for ya..Had a new clutch put in… changed the master and slave a month later.. since then I can’t get into first Gear or R from a stop.. if I rev the car while pressuring for 1st gear it will fall in.. or if I hold the pedal for 5-6 seconds it will fall into gear… I’m convinced it’s air in the system being introduced somehow.. but I’ve tried bleeding 101 different ways.. always seem to have air in the system.. never let the master empty.. garage wants a new clutch… I’m convinced it’s air… thoughts?

[@DrivelineMaster]

It could be air but the clue is reeving up the engine or holding the clutch in for a few seconds before tiring. This really sounds like Clutch drag. Clutch drag is when the disc doesn't separate from the flywheel and or pressure plate fast enough. Clutch drag can be cause by a few things but most notably would be grease or oil on the clutch disc or the clutch disc is binding on the input shaft as it tries to retract. This last one is often cause by the last technician not cleaning and properly lubricating the transmission input shaft and clutch disc splines. Two important precautions to follow, You have to be very careful not to put too much lube on the input shaft because it will get flung onto the disc and 2) make sure to use the correct type of lube. Sacs actually make a lube specifically for this. Most clutch kits also come with a graphite based lube for this but they never give enough because they are afraid the technician will put too much on the shaft. Oil or grease can come from engine oil leaking into the clutch area or transmission oil can leak past the input shaft seal. The only other way is for the last tech to be too sloppy with lubing parts or not working with clean hands or cleaning the disc before installing it. Some extra thoughts. What type of vehicle is this? was the clutch master cylinder rod properly adjusted? Did you try vacuum bleeding at the master cylinder? Does this vehicle have a self adjusting pressure plate? Was the flywheel replace, refinished or just cleaned up with some sand paper or buffing pad?

[@Turtlefarm]

@@DrivelineMaster I honestly think it is a poorly installed clutch… I’ve ordered a new one.. and I doubt the flywheel was machined..I’ve played with the master cylinders rod and it has to be maxed out in order shift at all… it’s a 06 G35 coupe I’ve taken it to two garages that bled it best they could… I get a lot of noise from the bell housing.. so I’ll do a clutch and hope for the best… I just worry it’s air and I’m wasting my money.. clutch pedal feels like shit only stiff 3/4 of the way down … but that could be from a bad clutch symptoms?? Not just air?

[@DrivelineMaster]

I have had some experience with G35's. You have to be careful with that master cylinder rod. When the pedal is completely released the rod should be adjusted so to make sure the master cylinder piston is fully back seated on the snap ring. The rod should have about 1/32" back and forth of free movement before it contacts the Master cylinder piston. Those clutches have a self adjusting pressure plate and if the clutch is replaced but not the pressure plate this can happen. When I had a problem with mine i swore there was air in the system. What fixed it was to replace the disc, pressure plate, release bearing and the Flywheel. Don't cut the flywheel. Spend the extra expense and replace it. Also inspect the release fork and pivot very carefully for wear or even being bent. On mine the pressure plate got out of adjustment and your can't reset them. This caused excessive free play which felt like air in the line. If you do this yourself watch out when installing the flywheel. it will fit multiple ways but there is only one correct way and the car won't run worth a darn if it's put in wrong. There is a location pin in the crank but the problem is the pin will fit into multiple holes. Look carefully on the back of the flywheel. There is an insert in one of the holes. This insert is for the locator pin. Good luck.

[@MEPPRO]

Hi, My car shakes while shifting on low gears 1st and 2nd and squeak sound also comes when pedal is pressed 80%.Not feels when shifting at high speeds. Any suggestions? Car ran 40k and is it the time to change the clutch? No pick up issue so far noticed. Thank you.

[@DrivelineMaster]

If you can provide me with some more information I will try to help. The shake occurs at what point. In other words while you are making the upshift from 1st to 2nd or after you let the clutch out once its in 2nd. Or is it when down shifting from 3rd to 2nd or 2nd to 1st. again does it shake while moving the shifter or after letting the clutch pedal up after the shift has completed. Does it only shake when accelerating? Or will it shake after the shift whether heavy, light or no acceleration. What kind of vehicle is this? and is it Front Wheel drive or Rear wheel drive? Does this happen every single time or only at certain times such as when the vehicle is cold or after it has been driven for some time and hot. Does the outside temperature have any impact on the problem. The squeak noise could be in the pedal mechanism or it could be a pilot bearing noise. Some vehicles don't have pilot bearings. Does the noise sound like its from under the dash or more like its from under the car near the clutch. Clutch life really depends on how you drive and your location. If you live where there are a lot of hills the clutch life will be shorter than flat lands. Do you rest your left foot on the clutch pedal or totally remove it. Resting your foot is bad for your clutch. If you want to make your clutch last keep your foot off the clutch pedal as much as possible and only use the pedal when you need it. Don't take an extra long time releasing the clutch when taking off from a stand still. Normally clutches get replace because the friction lining on the clutch disc wears out similar to brake linings. When the disc is worn out the power from the engine will not transmit properly to the transmission and your drive wheels. This effect is called slippage and first happens under heavy driving load situations. The engine and vehicle will feel like you are partially in neutral as you try to accelerate. The engine RPM's will be higher than normal and it will feel like you have poor acceleration. A good way to test this is to drive on a straight flat road in 1st gear going about 10 mph and upshift into 3rd gear. Let the clutch out and floor the gas pedal. If the engine shakes and or acceleration feels very sluggish your clutch friction is good and you don't have slippage. On the other hand if you feel the engine RPM's rise up but acceleration is not there you have slippage and the clutch needs to be replaced. Make sure the disc, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bearing are all replace. Make sure the flywheel is either machined or replaced and have the shop check and replace the engine rear main seal if its leaking. Now is the time to replace leaking seals since the transmission has to come out to replace that seal.

[@MEPPRO]

Thank you. Sound and shake is observed when pedal is up after shift completion. It's a front wheel drive car. Sound and vibration is not always there, when I started cold after shifting to 1st gear this issues repeatedly happening. Once vehicle started moving this issue is not felt. It might be of release bearing. Vehicle pick up is still the same. Its driven at city. I always keep fingers of my foot (not entire foot) as in city traffic I need to shift gear occasionally.

[@DrivelineMaster]

This does not sound like a release bearing at all although its hard to tell since I can't drive it myself. You might not have a clutch problem at all. I would check the engine and transmission mounts. If this happens while the vehicle speed going really slow you could have an engine misfire but you said the acceleration seems normal so that would rule out a misfire. You said the pedal is up and in 1st gear. Could it be that the shake happens while releasing the clutch to take off from a non moving vehicle. If so, that would be clutch chatter. Do you live in a city with a lot of hills like San Francisco? San Francisco is rough on clutches. I know you like to keep your foot ready to operate the clutch because of city traffic but I will tell you that even resting your toes on the pedal is not good for all the clutch parts. Try what I said to see if your clutch is slipping by putting it into 3rd gear while going slow. There will be shaking if you do this. Is this shaking the same as what you are experiencing in 1st gear? Are you in first gear going less than 5 mph and accelerating when this happens? If so, that would be an engine lugging. Same feeling you will get in 3rd gear at slow speeds and accelerating. Do some more testing and write back.

[@kuciksteadymelody8375]

Very good quality camera..

[@tomcatley5227]

How much should the fork wobble? I feel mine is moving to much?

[@DrivelineMaster]

The fork can wobble a fair amount but there are no standards. Fork wobble is caused by a difference in height between the pressure plate spring fingers. The greater the height difference the more the wobble. If you want to send me a short video of your fork wobbling I will give you my professional opinion.

[@tomcatley5227]

@@DrivelineMaster okay much appreciated

[@fauzanadiem6259]

Thank you for your video, how about Mercedes w123? I've been looking for the fork but I can't find it yet..

[@DrivelineMaster]

From what I can tell this model was never sold in the United Sates. Because of this I do not have any access to the repair manual information to help you. Look for the release fork coming out the side of the bell housing. The bell housing is located right behind the engine. If you find it there is most likely a rubber boot covering the hole where the fork exits the bell housing.

[@DIYManiacJohnP]

Really should have cleaned the area first

[@bushbasher69]

not always that easy as alot of it may have ended up on the clutch

[@DrivelineMaster]

Yea, I was too lazy.

[@ronniepitty2098]

On my 91 chevy it wont go into gear unless the truck is off i replaced the slave cylinder N master cylinder and nothing changed after bleeding. Any ideas? Also while i had the slave cylinder out i used two screw drivers to move the. Arm back and forth. Is there suppose to be spring back?

[@DrivelineMaster]

It is difficult to tell based on your information. It sounds like you changed the slave and master to solve a problem that did not get corrected? what problem were you trying to solve? As to moving the release arm it depends on the direction you moved the arm. There could be some spring tension but not always necessary. If you want to respond with some symptom details I will try to help.

[@itotech7845]

Hello, thank you for posting. I had issues with my gears grinding and hard to land a gear. I replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system. No I have that same noise and still grinds usually on 3 or 4 but it’s shifting a little better. Thought? New clutch? By the way the car is a Scion XB with 154k. Thank you.

[@DrivelineMaster]

If your having problems shifting into every gear the problem is going to be related to either the clutch not disengaging properly or the lubricant is wrong or worn out. If you have problems shifting into one or two gears the problem is in the transmission. There are multiple things that can cause this. Worn out synchronizer blocker rings are normally at the top of the list. Once these start to go out they can damage the gears. Further inspection is needed because the problem could be with a shift fork. Changing the oil and installing Red-Line Manual transmission fluid can sometimes help to reduce gear grinding and hard shifting on transmissions with mildly worn out synchronizer blocker rings.

[@itotech7845]

@@DrivelineMaster ok so 1-2 get a stuck a little bit but mainly 3-4 and sometimes 5 also. If I shift slowly and wiggle the shifter it eventually goes into gear. I used 75w-90 Valvoline Synthetic fluid as the manual recommended. Maybe I’ll drain it and use redline and see before taking to a shop. Should I go to an actual transmission specialist? Can they tell by test driving and listening to the car? I’m afraid if the transmission is bad the repairs may cost far more than the car’s value.

[@DrivelineMaster]

If the trans needs repair or replacing it will be costly and while the trans it out most shops like to put in a new clutch unless it's almost brand new. It's hard to tell when to call the line on fixing an old car or replacing it. I ask myself a few questions. What kind of replacement car could I buy that equals the cost of the repair? Would I be buying someone else's old problems. Has the car been good on costing me money beyond maintenance items. If it seems like every 3 - 4 months or sooner the car cost me repair money (not maintenance) then it may be time to get rid of it. If you buy a new car for $20K plus are you paying $20K to solve a $2K problem? As for the shop it really depends on the skill level of the technician. There could be a skilled technician who knows transmissions but the shop doesn't rebuild them. Not all trans shop have manual trans experts although you would think they should. If you have a favorite general repair shop that you use and feel confident using for your maintenance and general repairs I would start there and ask them for advice if you should go to a specialty shop or not. They may also be able to recommend a local specialty shop.

[@itotech7845]

@@DrivelineMaster thank you so much for your input. I really appreciate it. I’ll make some calls and go from there. Please continue to make video for the uneducated ones like me so we can learn a thing or two.

[@sto1asgoetia600]

This is exactly what’s happening to my 91 mustang, I keep being told it’s the throw out bearing and I’ve tried to explain I have no difficulty shifting or any noises when bepressing the clutch, it’s just some weird chirping that’s there when the clutch is not engaged

[@DrivelineMaster]

I don't remember the year but the video was from an older mustang. The problem is some vehicles don't place the pivot ball near the release fork opening in the bell housing but instead it's on the opposite side which makes adding lube like I did in the video impossible. Good Luck.

[@logmeindangit]

My 2006 Accord 4-cyl. Is at 150k miles, and recently developed a squeak from the clutch area that also goas away when I put any pressure on the clutch pedal. But it doesn't sound like a ball squeak, but a sound like a belt slipping or bad alternator. You know, like a sleeve that is worn, and is loose enough to squeal on whatever shaft it is sitting on. The pitch varies day to day, and is never loud like a belt slipping, it just has that kind of tone, sort-of a howl or chatter, as though induced by rotation, not vibration. Car still shifts fine, and once I am driving, I can't hear it over basic road noise and wind. I automatically thought it was the thrust bearingbecause of the type of noise it makes when unloaded. Is that possible? Likely? Will it require pulling the transmission? Ugh. For now, when it starts, I tap the clutch a little to get a moment of quiet, and am listwning to see if it gets worse with time. It started making this noise in the last thousand miles. I guess the best thung to do is get in there and lube the pivot point and see if that fixes it. Thank you SO much for the video. It gives me hope, and something that will hopefully be easy to do in a process of elimination. Peace, and happy shifting!

[@DrivelineMaster]

If the noise goes away with slight clutch pedal pressure then it can't be a belt or alternator or even a thrust bearing. Even if it doesn't sound like the chirping from my video there is a 95% - 98% chance it's your clutch pivot. If you have never changed the clutch in 150K that is excellent but it also means there is more chance for more severe wear. Yes I would check to see if you can get into your pivot through the release fork access hole and apply some lubrication to the pivot ball.

[@logmeindangit]

@@DrivelineMaster, thanks for the reply. I'll check into getting access to the pivot ball. I didn't mean to refer to alternator or belt except as a sound comparability, not location or source. The squeak of a pivot ball would sound different than a thrust bearing, and that was all I was doing, was differentiating in the type of sound. I've had a noisy thrust bearing, in another car, years ago. It, too, got quiet with any pressure on the pedal. I still think the squeal in my '06 Honda Accord 4-cyl. Manual is the thrust bearing, due to the sound. There is no oscillation, or squeak frequency like what I would expect from a pivot ball vibrating against the fork socket. Anyhoo, whether I am right or wrong, even Kwazimodo had a hunch. LOL! Again, thanks for your video and your views on this. I always welcome ideas and opinions. People like you help me learn. I'm in my 70s, retired, and am still learning!

[@DrivelineMaster]

I understand. Well there are thrust bearings in the engine and in the transmission but none in the clutch assemble. I can't think of any thrust bearing that the noise would go away with slight clutch pedal pressure but there is always the odd ball circumstance. Just ask Kwazimodo.

[@logmeindangit]

@@DrivelineMaster crap. I am probably using the wrong term Throwout bearing. I thimk of it as a thrust bearig, since its load is in line with the shaft, but you are corrsct about it being a *thrust* bearing. Thank you, and I apologize for causing confusion. "I are gud wif wurdz."

[@DrivelineMaster]

No problem. I often hear from less knowledgeable individuals who don't know the proper term or from individuals from another country who call something by a different name. In any event the throwout bearing noise shows up under different circumstances than the pivot ball noise. All bearings that are bad will get louder if you spin them faster or if you put them under a higher load condition. Pushing down on the clutch pedal will put the throwout bearing in a high load condition. If the bearing is bad the noise will get louder and sound different than it did with no pressure on the clutch pedal. This is opposite from the pivot ball whose noise goes away with slight pedal pressure. The two opposite as to when the noise appears or disappears.

[@arnoldvillarrealgonzalez5479]

Hey, my 2005 lancer got the clutch replaced last year and started to make the rattling noise this summer and started squealing last week but only when I change gears. The noise goes away when I press the clutch though. Do you think this is an easy fix?

[@DrivelineMaster]

A squealing noise most noticeable when letting the pedal up can be a pilot bearing noise. Pilot bearing squeals or most noticeable when taking off from a stop sign while releasing the pedal. While stopped put your transmission in neutral and release the clutch pedal. If you hear the noise it could be the pivot ball and fork or it could be in your transmission. Here is how to tell the difference. Apply a small amount of pressure on your clutch pedal. Push it down about an inch. If the noise goes away it's your pivot ball and fork. If the noise is still there it's in your transmission. If it's a rattle noise from your transmission check the oil level and make sure the correct type and viscosity of oil was installed. If in doubt drain and refill with the correct oil. If this is a slight rattle that is most notable in a garage or ally way where the vehicle is close to some walls this may be normal gear rattle. You should not hear gear rattle in conditions where the noise can not bounce off of a close wall. Gear rattle can sometimes be reduces by using a slightly thicker (higher viscosity) gear oil like 75W-140 instead of 75W-90. I would not recommend this if you live where the temperature gets really cold like 30 degrees Fahrenheit or colder.

[@arnoldvillarrealgonzalez5479]

DrivelineMaster thank you. It’s a loud rattle but I press the clutch a couple inches (like to the biting point) and the rattling goes away. When I’m at a stop sign and take off it will sometimes squeak

[@DrivelineMaster]

This really sounds like the shop did not do a good job of properly lubricating the pivot ball and fork on your Lancer.

[@shoku2725]

Exact sound my sn95 makes. I just had the clutch replaced too and this sound started like 300 miles after the install

[@DrivelineMaster]

The pivot ball was not properly lubricated during the clutch replacement. I would take it back and if necessary show them the video. Some pivot balls like the one in the video can be lubricated without taking the transmission out while others can't and the transmission or transaxle will have to be removed in order to lubricate the pivot ball.

[@doaburnout1205]

Long shot in the dark here being a old video but what if it makes that noise when youre getting up to speed in gear same thing??

[@DrivelineMaster]

Age of the video does not apply here. The symptoms when this noise happens and goes away will always be the same. If you hear a chirping noise with your foot off the pedal accelerating it could be a throw out (release) bearing noise. While you hear the noise gently press the clutch pedal down about 1 inch. If the noise gets louder you have a release bearing noise. If not the noise is coming from inside the transmission.

[@doaburnout1205]

@@DrivelineMaster was squeaky yesterday and not today but I did let it warm up abit more today I bet it's the bearing like you said

[@ZahraA-ld8mr]

Hi I have the same issue I think. When I depress my clutch and release it just under half way I get this sound. It goes away when my foot it fully down or off the clutch. What does this mean?

[@DrivelineMaster]

If you get a screeching noise as you are letting the pedal up at about half way this is typically a pilot bearing noise not a release fork pivot ball noise. Watch the video. the noise goes away anytime there is foot pressure on the pedal.

[@DonCh4oS]

Not sure if you'll respond but do you have to go back every so often to reapply grease?

[@DrivelineMaster]

If a good quality of grease is used with the proper quantity and the rubber boot on the shift fork is intact this should last the life of the clutch. It might dry out if you are really good with a clutch and you live where the roads are flat with minimal stop and go heavy traffic to where you get 80K miles on a clutch.

[@DonCh4oS]

@@DrivelineMaster Thanks DrivelineMaster, I can finally get rid of those crickets for good. Gonna try it today!

[@ernest10]

I have the same issue on Subaru Forester. I greased well and sound dissapears, but following day the sound comes back. I suspect the fork or pivot ball has some issue?

[@DrivelineMaster]

Some Foresters have an service bulletin about an upgraded Throwout bearing that might be problematic. Or it might just need a different type of grease.

[@ernest10]

@@DrivelineMaster my sound issue started just after clutch replacement at store. Definetely its not TOB (if I hold firmly the fork, noise dissapears). I used lithium grease.

[@DrivelineMaster]

OK, very odd that the noise would return the following day after lubricating with a lithium grease. Unless the grease just got around the edges of the pivot ball and didn't get well enough between the ball and fork. That's the only guess I would have on why it would return withing a day. There is a spring that helps to hold the ball up against the fork which could make it difficult to get the grease between the ball and fork. Good Luck.

[@jonathan3083]

If in doubt, add more grease! It worked for my Forester and the chirping noise also started the day the clutch was replaced like your situation

[@N1withaskillet]

Brilliant.

[@fabienmisson5367]

Thanks for this video ! Seems I've found what is my issue on my mini cooper S R56. Now only issue will be to find the pivot ball in my car !!! Any tips to find it ?? Thanks

[@DrivelineMaster]

Look for the slave cylinder and release fork. The release fork passes through an opening that is covered with a rubber boot as it enters into the bell housing. Pull the rubber boot back and look inside to see if you can see the pivot ball. If your lucky it will be close to the opening.

[@kinangeagle133]

What type of grease could i generally use/general avoid?

[@DrivelineMaster]

Use any Lithium based grease. I prefer high temp lithium grease but white lithium works well too.

[@DrivelineMaster]

This will work well. www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA/ref=sr_1_40?crid=JJFKYTZGJ526&keywords=high%2Btemp%2Blithium%2Bgrease&qid=1704128320&sprefix=high%2Btemp%2Blithium%2Bgrease%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-40&th=1 or this: www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3111-Generation-Bearing-Grease/dp/B000M8IHQY/ref=sr_1_45?crid=38QEMHKLH9OSX&keywords=high+temp+lithium+wheel+bearing+grease&qid=1704128572&sprefix=high+temp+lithium+wheel+bearing+grease%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-45

[@AlexGarcia-gj6ry]

I accidently disconnected the fork of the pivotball trying to do this to my 2001 honda civic. I tried to get it back on but I dont think I succeeded. I put the rubber boot back on and Im driving it like that.Do you know if there is any risk of driving it like that? When I get a chance I will try again to get it back on the pivot ball.

[@DrivelineMaster]

I'm surprised it can be driven if the fork is not on the pivot ball. I suspect that it is on the pivot ball but you may have knocked off or bent the retention spring that is designed to help hold the fork against the pivot ball.

[@AlexGarcia-gj6ry]

@@DrivelineMaster I might be wrong but the fork was against the edge of the housing and I struggled a little to push it away to get in there and spray. And when I finally did push it away like an inch or two the fork stayed there it didnt come back to the position it was and I tried to get it back to where it was and I couldnt. But the car runs fine and the clutch really doesnt feel any diferent. I will check under there one more time to see if it went back to its position I found it in or maybe see if theres any way to see if its on the pivot ball.

[@DrivelineMaster]

You may have just pushed the rod to the slave cylinder back into the cylinder and once you started to operate the clutch again everything returned to normal. I'm willing to bet that when you look it's all back to normal.

[@josetostado3804]

Fixed my 2013 Mazdaspeed 3 thanks

[@Katster]

I have a rattling sound when the clutch is up and goes away when its down but it doesn't squeak at all

[@DrivelineMaster]

Same problem and if you let it go long enough it will start to squeak. The correction is the same.

[@oguzhanyesilay2965]

this is although a temporary solution.have the same sound on my Hilux Vigo 2006.After lubing the pivot ball sound comes back after couple of months(water/time) i guess better solution is to change pivot ball and clutch at the same time cause it bears out

[@JoseManuel.M]

Hello my friend, Land Cruiser Prado over here w the same issue, did you solved it in your Vigo? Noise keeps coming back every few weeks so i was thinking the same thing, since I already changed the pitchfork, slave, pivot bearing, clutch kit, the only thing missing is to change the pivot ball

[@kev6509]

I recently bought a 2000 mustang gt and don’t know much about it, car shifts all gears and no grinds at all besides when i put reverse too fast, it’s making this exact same noise when im not pressing the clutch in this case how does it work? i don’t see any pivot soo im wondering if it’s the same mechanism please help, thank you so much for the video

[@DrivelineMaster]

I looked up your clutch system. There are 3 basic designs. One like what I show where the pivot ball is located close to the release fork opening in the bell housing. One where the pivot ball is located on the opposite side from the opening in the bell housing. and One that doesn't use a release fork and instead incorporates the slave cylinder and throwout bearing all in one assemble. Your Mustang uses the type where the pivot ball is located on the opposite side from where the release fork extends out of the bell housing. Unfortunately for you the only way to lubricate the pivot ball and fork is to remove the transmission. Too many mechanics don't apply enough of the right kind of lubricant on the pivot balls and release forks to last the life of a clutch and they can start to chirp.

[@kev6509]

@@DrivelineMasterall i hear is $$$ :( thank you so much for your time, what are the consequences of this long term? thanks hope u have a good day

[@DrivelineMaster]

Yes, $$$. Depending on the severity this is two metal objects riding on each other moving back and forth with no lubrication. After a period of time they will both wear and need replacing. If they wear enough before the life of your clutch disk you will lose clutch operation. I can not tell you how long this will last before it becomes a problem.

[@kev6509]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGWyZ5SQn79oaJYsi=5C0WqNu3-FTMlDUB

[@KEN_CHILLER]

What type of greese was used? @DrivelineMaster

[@DIFFLOCKERS]

White lithium grease by the looks

[@zmez5001]

How do I access the Clutch Release Fork? Is it in plain view? or hiding under transmission?

[@DrivelineMaster]

Each vehicle is different and some vehicles don't have a release fork. You often have to go under the vehicle and see if you can locate the clutch slave cylinder. The slave cylinder connects to the fork. The fork sticks out of the bell housing and is sealed with a rubber boot. If you can find the fork pull back the rubber boot and look inside to see if you can see the pivot ball. Some pivot balls are on the other side and not accessible. Also some slave cylinders and forks are on top and hard to get to. If you tell me the year, make and model of vehicle I will try to look it up for you and I can advise you better.

[@zmez5001]

@@DrivelineMaster Thank you for the advice, I have a 2004 mustang v6

[@DrivelineMaster]

From what I can tell your mustang uses a cable to release the clutch and the fork is on the left side of the bell housing. The pivot ball is on the opposite side and not accessible to apply lubrication without removing the transmission.

[@zmez5001]

@@DrivelineMaster Thank you for the info, how much do you think it will cost to get fixed at a shop?

[@DrivelineMaster]

This depends on where you live. Labor rates are higher in big cities as more rural area's. Dealers tend to cost more than independent shops. The repair would involve removing the transmission. This is the biggest labor part of the job but as long as the transmission is out you should have the entire clutch replaced. Just make sure to inform the shop to make sure to apply enough quality grease to the pivot ball on the fork so the noise does not return in a year. It would not be fair to speculate on price. Call around and ask for a general quote for replacing the clutch on your mustang. Ask for two quotes. One with resurfacing the flywheel and one if they replace the flywheel. I can say, it won't be cheap and almost certain to be north of $500.00.

[@Sheldonrocks456]

I have the same problem here, but the thing is whenever I grease it about a few days later the noise keeps coming back. Would that mean I have worn out something as well if it was to keep on squeaking?

[@JoseManuel.M]

Hello my friend, same issue here, you solved it? I was thinking in changing my pivot strut since I already changed the pitchfork, greased it and the noise keeps coming back

[@Sheldonrocks456]

@@JoseManuel.M hello, i still have the problem, ive also changed out the pitchfork and greased it but that only goes good for a day or 2 when its greased. After that the noise would still return

[@dentonmccorkle3807]

Can you explain where this location is at? I’m having this issue occasionally and it’s only getting louder

[@DrivelineMaster]

It's different for most vehicles. Some vehicles do not have enough access to lubricate the pivot ball like in the video. Just behind the engine is the bell housing and transmission or transaxle. The release fork normally extrudes from the bell housing. Left side, right side or sometimes on the top like on Subaru's. The access hole where the fork stick through normally has a rubber boot to keep the road dirt out that will have to be removed to access inside the bell housing where the pivot ball lives. If you tell me the year, make and model of your vehicle I may be able to look it up for you.

[@dentonmccorkle3807]

@@DrivelineMaster it’s a 1996 Miata, so I’m hoping it’ll be just as simple as jack it up and grease it and it’s fixed, but maybe not. I have a jack and stands I’m just not even sure where to find this chirping sound. Sound starts when I’m off the clutch but pressing in makes it stop like the video.

[@DrivelineMaster]

I just got back from vacation. Let me look this up and I will write back soon.

[@DrivelineMaster]

Under your vehicle on the passenger side just behind the engine is the transmission bell housing and you should see the slave cylinder and the release fork. The fork sticks out of the bell housing and it will have a rubber boot around the fork to keep road dirt out of the clutch assemble. You should be able to pull the rubber boot back to gain access to the pivot ball which is causing your noise problem. With a light and a flux brush with grease on it you should be able to lubricate your pivot ball. The hardest part might be getting that boot back properly installed.

[@Ajhowardz32]

I have same noise on my 300zx 1990 but the screeching gets higher when I rev it. Should that be normal?

[@joembarak]

Hey mate, did you work out what the issue is. I'm having the same problem.