CNC Electronics: Explaining What Parts Are Needed And What They Do (

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

bit.ly/2zaQKB0-Solidworks-Free-Trial Try Solidworks for free right now online!

[@satxsatxsatx]

$4000 to buy, $1300 yearly rent. LOL

[@dellman191]

I enjoy your content and thank Solidworks for a smart sposorship!

[@RobertLopez66]

Jeremy Fielding will you be offering the plans for sale?

[@atlas1095]

What are those robust limit switches? would love to use them for a diy elevator bed

[@FlakeyPM]

@@satxsatxsatx Hopefully you have seen by now that it is $99 yearly

[@Iamtherodlight1453.]

Absolutely having your children around you while you’re working all these cool projects it’s a little slice of heaven

[@jwhite1016aol]

The last few minutes of this video is why you are our favorite DIY youtuber.

[@MarkMcCluney]

Jameson White Well said mate.

[@MJCPeters]

Jeremy, my daughter is now in her 30's and renovating her second house " by herself". I have to hope that letting her help as a child influenced her confidence to think through any challenge.

[@briancox2721]

1st: If you didn't want to spend the money on a RJ-45 break out board (those things get expensive), and don't want to worry about breaking a custom cable, you could make a short length of custom wired cable that goes from the component to a bulkhead connector in the panel side. Then run from the bulkhead to the component on the machine with a normally wired cable. This way, your custom wired cable is safe inside the cabinet and you have standard cables outside in any potentially dangerous areas, without the expense of the breakout board. The other is that you were showing wiring all of the switches in parallel for not being able to detect one of several NC switches opening. If you wire the NC switches in series, you can detect one of several NC switches opening. Further, for safety critical applications, both the NO and NC side of the switch should be monitored as NC contacts can't detect shorts or failures to open and NO contacts cannot detect wire breaks. Remember, a damaged cable doesn't always fail open, sometimes it will develop a short between conductors, especially if it manages to flex and chafe through insulation. Wire the NC sides in a series loop, and wire the NO sides in a parallel group. The control should monitor for both the NC and NO circuits to be in the "safe" state. Probably overkill for limit switches, but a must for multiple e-stops or palm button controls.

[@Sindrijo]

Sounds like he could maybe have just used an off the shelf crossover ethernet cable?

[@personanongrata9289]

Geeze! You’re a creative polymath! I’m glad you’re teaching and sharing what you know. From what I see of kids today, very few are ever even exposed to the kinds of knowledge you have.

[@douglashank8480]

There you go again, sharing with viewers more than just how to do the electromechanical 'stuff'. Your kids are blessed to have a dad like you. 👍

[@blainemaxwell]

You can Series the limit switches in NC configuration.

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

blainemaxwell Please check the description for more details on this

[@slevinkelevra5824]

@@Jeremy_Fielding i also think you could do that, and i cant find anything in the desciption, Have i missed something?

[@weekendproductions3161]

wanted to say the same thing. limit switches in NO configuration are wired in parallel, in NC config you wire them in series. voila ;-)

[@ocAToccd]

+1 If you put your NC switch in series, any toggled switch will open the circuit, thus telling you that a switch has been triggered... It just makes the broken cable problem more difficult to solve... and you will need connectors to jump from one switch to the other...

[@slevinkelevra5824]

@@ocAToccd He said that he has a limited number of inputs, and the nc in series is the best option for that. Sure, its more difficult to find the fault that way, but only marginally. And even then its easier to find and repair this electrical fault than Repair a bent Router frame.

[@hgbugalou]

I use to love to watch my dad build things. I learned so much stuff from him like this. Good on you for involving your children.

[@Vytor01]

As for soldering, if you take a small piece of thin solder and twist it inline with strands of the wire, you can then put the wire into the cup and hold the iron on top of the wire and the solder will melt and make the connection. I have wired a lot of solder cups.

[@mdvener]

What a great video, especially with your family. Sometimes you just need to step back, take break so your mind can clear n figure a solution to what is a speed bump inyour thought process. Having yourkids come in, ask some simple or even crazy questions, to get you over that bump and figure your way to move along. You are a remarkable person, n a great dad. Everyone is learning, in more ways than one. I feel better now just watching. I learned something. At 66 some times its hard to teach an old dog new tricks. 40 years as a residential journeyman electrician, now retired, a breath of fresh air is sometimes what you need. Thanks so much for sharing, n wish more parents lived life like you. The world needs more parents like you.

[@joelwilman8712]

You are a fantastic parent. I feel the best thing you have taught your kids is to have an inquisitive mind! You have also taught them by example to be lifelong learners and problem solvers!! Great job!!! You are a great role model for all dads!!!

[@zungruitelbitladnaternoche7305]

Jeremy, I discovered your channel a week ago and it didn't take long till I subscribed. You are awesome, I like the way you keep it within a range of understanding and leave the rest to us to figure out. That makes your videos so fantastic. You explain and teach us so much yet leaves us with just the details to figure out on our own for our personal application. I think it's safe and so smart. By the way, when you said "ask me how I know", I knew the answer to that because I did it too, more than once. lol... A month ago I was given an old industrial copier machine and an old industrial color printer. I took them apart and kept all I wanted, maybe a little more. Later on is when I found you. I don't know what I'm going to do with all those small stepping motor, compared to the large one you found in that copier machine. If you don't live too far from me I may ask you if you want anything I don't need and I'll send them to you. I live in central Alabama. I have tons of parts I hoarded for a long while which most I probably never use. I never sell anything, I give it away or I throw it away. I also dismantle a threadmill and kept the parts, now that I saw how you made a bench power supply out of it I need to find the box where I put all that electronics in. I want to make one just like yours, it's awesome... Thanks again for an awesome channel. Keep the great work.

[@CaseyConnor]

Re: the soldering, the melt-and-dunk method may not be wise: generally you want all the metal involved to be at the same temperature to prevent a bad joint ("cold joints" can look and feel solid but not actually be soldered.) If the wires can't take the heat required without melting their jacket, you can separately tin them (well), and then do the melt-and-dunk, but maybe hold the iron at the joint for an extra second or two to make sure it's all bonding.

[@ghwizz]

I can't make a straight box or many of the other things you find easy but I have been soldering for 40 years (!) and I would respectfully suggest you add a technical correction to the description as described above. Otherwise you run the risk of a bad joint or worse - an intemittent connection which is a pita to diagnose. I think this is shaping up to be a great series and I'm looking forward to the next episode. Proud to be one of your patreons.

[@tna2me197]

Your attitude towards your kids is absolutely beautiful.

[@bulletproofpepper2]

I like how you explain things. I have bought most of my components for a lite duty cnc machine. I looked in to a few blog sites for the wiring but the vile comments by troll groups was relentless. I think its a generational thing and sharing information unlimitedly to the best of your ability at the time of discovering is a fresh way for working. Thanks for sharing.

[@northshorepx]

Everyone - please click the link to show solidworks that we appreciate them sponsoring jeremy

[@PayneMaximus]

The problem with limit switches that you comment is the reason why in the industry it's so common to use current signals instead of voltage ones. The 4-20mA protocol is the most common, in which 4mA is logic zero, and 20mA is logic one, but if you read 0mA that means the signal path (or the sensor) is broken. These signals usually just pass through a resistor to generate a voltage and that voltage is then assigned a logic value.

[@aboveallthingslove6349]

I've had a need to reverse the RJ45 or RJ11 arrangement in the past and because it's a specialty cable I used some yellow CAT5 snipping from the bin. Because it can potentially damage components that are not made for it, so I tagged it as well but outside the raceway so I can follow the yellow to trace the route from component to component. I love that you encourage your children's interest in tinkering, that sort of thing changes their brains at an early age and can lead to a lifetime of curiosity and critical thinking, much respect Jeremy.

[@alanesq1]

For someone who wants to have a try/play with CNC I would recommend getting an Arduino UNO and install GRBL on it, then you can just use a couple of very cheap stepper motors with control board ($3 each on ebay) cobble together something very basic to move a pointer around and then experiment with what you can do with the software. Making a full size CNC router is not more more difficult than this, just needs bigger stepper control units :-) To quickly create some gcode to try on it have a search for JSCUT BTW - Have a look at GRBL on an ESP32 - this is really impressive

[@Billhilly87]

So glad to see more content from you!! As for the encoders you want to get RJ45 Crossover cables.

[@Simcadepro]

or a rj45 plugs and crimp tool rewiring to encoder

[@Leroys_Stuff]

But still makes it a special cable though vs you can use any cable though

[@appleton6509]

yeah just buy the 2 dollar crossover cable

[@z3r0grinder]

Man, I cant describe to you how much this video helps me. Please please do more in videos like this. Super big thanks.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

You're making great progress. Sharing your hobby with your kids- making memories they'll recall years from now.

[@designandbuild3953]

Jeremy, I really enjoyed your story about kids in the shop. I'm a Dad and didn't always follow that model, and that's my fault. Technical skills in our country are fading, except with Dads like you where they are expanding. I watch a lot of your videos and have sent many to friends and my Dad, great channel!!

[@humward888]

This is an awesome video series. I just found your site today and I have to say, I truly enjoy your delivery and content. Thank you Jeremy. I look forward to watching some more.

[@joshuacaylor881]

You are my new go-to channel for CNC info. Thank you, brother. Much love!

[@zunrue1]

Hey! I know I'm a bit late commenting here but I came back to your channel for a project to make myself a CNC mill and your reasoning for using NC limit switches is a great point. I may actually pass this on for some of our proprietary machines at work!

[@schelsullivan]

I laughed out loud at the ask me how I know part, because, ask me how I know?

[@nolansprojects2840]

When you know, you KNOW. Haha

[@tonyrmathis]

It's stuff like this that makes me love this channel. The little details we all sometimes miss and other channels pretend never happen.

[@TuttleScott]

its that or you forget to put the heatshrink on the wire before you solder it up too. son of a....!!!!

[@MarkMcCluney]

schel sullivan I think we all feel that pain...

[@tonyrmathis]

@@TuttleScott And you haven't left enough slack to cut it and start over.

[@marcelorodriguez9601]

🇺🇸🇦🇷 One of the things that I most liked is the fact that you teach your kids about it. There are some kids that know crap of NOTHING because their parents entitle them or “ don’t have time or protection them from I don’t know what “ Very knowledgeable this is not the first time I’ve seen your videos.

[@reaper060670]

I'm going to take a butchers at Solidworks tomorrow evening while I'm out in my small workshop. It's nowhere near the size of yours.. I'm rewatching this video again right now Jeremy..LOL.. I love the information u put into this so I need to watch it a few more times. I will take notes tomorrow and work from there.. Thanks again pal..

[@EarthMurph]

You are one of the finest in explaining these concepts to the average Joe like me. And I’m sure students already in the field (ing) love it as well. Thanks for all you do!

[@fredkeele6578]

Thanks Jeremy for your videos. Im getting my utube degrees while recovering from spinal fusion in my back. Lol. I admire you for getting your children involved with your passion to teach others. They will definitely remember and cherish the time you gave them.

[@franktaccetta784]

You are a natural born teacher! Thanks for sharing this awesome project!

[@KBilt92]

At 12:47 you say you can't wire multiple normally closed switches together if you want any one of them to cut the power. Your diagram showed the switches connected in parallel, so any one would bypass another. But, if they were in series, they would function properly. With positive "OR" logic, we want normally open switches in parallel. With negative "OR" logic, we want normally closed switches in series.

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

Yeah... there is a note in the description about this.

[@SteveHodge]

@@Jeremy_Fielding The note seems to be missing?

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

There was some kind of error and it reset back to the original description. I added it again. It should be there now.

[@FlyingShotsman]

Great video, Jeremy. I'm really enjoying this series. One note about wiring your quick-disconnects. Your description of soldering the solder cups is a recipe for cold solder joints. The wire should be fixtured in the solder cup first, then be soldered in place. If you fill the cup with solder first, then by the time you insert the wire, all of the flux will have burned off and the solder is likely not to properly wet the wire. Also, you can use normally closed limit switches on a single input by wiring them in series. This way any one that opens trips the controller.

[@nolansprojects2840]

About the “eathernet switch” you made, Siemens makes connectors that you cut the cord and you can wire the connectors any way you want. You don’t need to strip them either, you just line them up and clamp it together (the connector and the wires are everything you need.) it’s what we do at work for this sort of thing. I’m very impressed with how compact you made the control cabinet! Although it is a bit messy, but it’s not going to a customer, so works for me! 😂 haha

[@a-yates]

That cabinet is pretty nice I'll show you some messy cabinets lol

[@jasonwoods7915]

As an electrician we use cat5 or cat6 connectors. A crimping to which is only about 20 bucks is needed though. For communication we use the b color code. From connecting one pc to another pc we use a on one end and b on ther other. There are connectors for data cable that doesn't require crimping tool but they are bulky and expensive.

[@seaforb13]

Woah my head hurts. I like your simplified descriptions makes researching what I need to know easier. Thankyou

[@wyore4344]

Jeremy. i am so happy to "meet" you on KZbin. you are doing a terrific job. please keep up all the informative videos, great content, and hard work. so honest: "ask me how I know !?!" 'A-Plus'...jumping the 80volts. just like jumping 12v on the back of a gauge cluster. but...your information..."makes my old head spin". any, and all, negative comments are just (know-it-all =) "yada, yada, yada." so very proud of you and all of your hard work. very best to you and yours. walt.

[@sdunca4864]

To your comment about the kids in the shop- Sage and Well said my friend! If you can't explain it to a 7-10 year old to the point THEY understand it- then you dont know it either... BRAVO Mr. Fielding!

[@aspencespence7435]

The rj45 you need is a crossover ethernet cable. Or for 20 dollars or less on Amazon you can get a crimper kit so you can make your own rj45 cables

[@TuttleScott]

when he shows the breakout board it looks like more than just the rx/tx wires are crossed over.

[@klikkolee]

When using break-out boards for Ethernet/RJ45/8P8C connectors, be aware that those types of connector are usually used for data that is somewhat sensitive to electromagnetic interference (both from outside noise and from cross-talk between wires of the same connector), with the problem usually being mediated with the use of twisted pairs of wire. If you don't know much about the data going through, assume you need to use twisted pairs after the breakout, or if you can use tiny wires, cut off the connector and use the pretwisted pairs inside directly.

[@howtoanddiychannel2387]

Congrats on 200k Jeremy! Nice job!

[@vennic]

Subs are hoppin!

[@radishfever]

The inside of your box is very organized and clean👍looks really well made.

[@Hablizel]

Great video! You're a wonderful teacher.

[@tomlaight]

When I worked in engine test and development, a lot of our equipment used RJ45 connections too and we often had to have "crossover" cables made so that Tx would talk to Rx properly without the use of a network switch. Usually tried to use different coloured sheathing to make it obvious

[@TheGarrison89]

Jeremy, it is very fun and refreshing to watch your videos. You take pride in your work and enjoy what you're showing. Keep it up and thanks for the quality content!

[@RangerM98]

Alternative method to the RJ-45 'translator' solution you showed: If you have an RJ-45 cut/crimp tool then you can just make your own custom wire by reordering one side of the connectors properly. Then you don't have to use the 'translator' . Both things take time though, and this solution would require that you have the RJ-45 Crimp/Cut tools and spare RJ-45 connectors as well as the networking wire needed to make your own custom RJ-45 connection. I have those things but most don't.

[@lordhelmet6518]

7:47 Jeremy, IMHO the simplest solution for your "translator" issue would be to make your own RJ45 cables. This is simple to do with an inexpensive crimping tool. This is done in crossover cables. You would simply rearrange the wires on the end of one of the connections. BTW great video.

[@someoneelse6336]

Bro awesome video. You are the perfect teacher . I learned lot of your youtube chanel.

[@zahialsalman]

Idk if you'll read this, but I think the off the shelf solution is called a crossover cable. Its basically an ethernet cable that isn't wired 1 to 1 on both sides if that makes sense. I think it was meant so that if you connect two PC's together, they send data to the other PC's receiver pins, rather than their sender pins. This has been rendered obsolete by modern computers. I think. But you don't need me to tell you that your method does the job just fine.

[@johnfithian-franks8276]

Hi Jeremy, It is so few times that I know something that might help someone that it is almost nonexistent. I have a tool that makes up "RJ45's" because I used to run cables from one room to another and I needed lengths that were not available. This tool would allow you to make up a cable that went from one rj45 to another and had the wire configuration that you need. The tools are not that expensive and you can get them from "Maplin" and most likely other electric supply stores

[@iraydiaz5888]

Love the bonus footage. Man big brain on this one and I'm here building a $100 CNC.

[@partybusdad]

MPCNC?

[@burtonkent4549]

WHOA. Your comment on the limit switch closing the circuit means the switch is pressed close (or normally open). Limit switches should always always be normally closed, so when they fail, they fail open and your motors don't drive whatever into the frame, burning out the motor and doing damage. You're my new favorite youtuber, BTW. I just don't want your beautiful machine to be able to tear itself apart.

[@burtonkent4549]

My bad, right after I commented on this you mentioned the difference. You didn't cover the pros of normally open switches though.

[@rayp.454]

You're a good Dad Jeremy. Thanks for the video.

[@sheemondallasgeorgia]

The best instructional video I have seen. Thank you!

[@rosswoolley2854]

0:18 Proma THC in the control box! I won't be taking any of your advice and that's for starters. Not to mention no shielded cables or ferrite beads on the wiring!

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

Yeah… turns out it didn’t work. But you say this as if you have never made a bad purchase? Weird. We all make mistakes:) thanks for watching

[@rosswoolley2854]

@@Jeremy_Fielding I admit that i have made some bad purchases in the past, namely my first wife!

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

@@rosswoolley2854 WOW... thats cold. And public LOL

[@mattadulting]

RJ45 connectors go on what's called twisted pair cable or category cable, ie: CAT5, CAT5e, CAT6, etc. Rather than a breakout board i would recommend just terminating cable with the right combination on each end. If you don't know how, but need it done, look for a local shop/business that does low voltage work including building networks. Go five a technician and tell them what pin out you need. I can do it in a minute and if i was close to you I'd just do it for you.

[@blackseabrew]

Just a late comment. Using the control power transformer, as you have done, is best practice. For those who don't understand why it will become readily apparent when you source power from the same power panel as your air compressor and plasma cutter. When the air compressor and/or plasma cutter power on there will be a voltage spike through your control panel that will likely disrupt operations. To anyone who doesn't know a control power transformer will mitigate/eliminate voltage irregularities from the primary power source to anything that is sourcing power from the transformer. That being said your practice of installing that big round control power transformer is a very expensive way to go. It requires a lot of real estate inside that panel and large panels like yours are expensive. Another option for lower budgets is to buy an independent separate stepdown/stepup transformer from places like Vevor or ebay. They cost $70 vs $250 for a proper control power transformer. The typically come in their own case with a cooling fan which is easy to mount separate from the control panel. This can allow a person to buy a much smaller control panel and save at least $100.

[@kde5fan737]

For the RJ45 option, you can do away with ALL those pieces except the cable. Get a tool to crimp your own cable and just learn the pin-out for each cable and input on the controller. Then you just put the individual twisted pair wires in the appropriate location on the male cable end and plug it into the controller. If you have 8 RJ45 connectors, buy 8 cables of different colors (get CAT6), one for each location, and get them at least 2x as long as you need, so you can cut them in 1/2 so you can make an extra or backup (or if you make a mistake). Allow for length needed to route cables. You can probably do away with 8 of those boards this way and about 200+ connections that could all be a point of failure. I've made 100's to 1000's of custom cables like this and they work well. If you ever need to run USB long distances, I found running over CAT5 works really well, you just double up the connectors, so it uses a single twisted pair (2 wires) as one USB cable, with will give you a total diameter/gauge 4-8x greater than USB cables - so there is less V drop and greater amperage capacity. I got it to run well over 75ft with standard USB2/3 over CAT5 cable w/ no "extenders" or powered aux devices.

[@scallywag1716]

Ahhh electronic controls....fun stuff. Use this all the time in food processing / manufacturing.

[@ishimwehonore7282]

Brother Jeremy we are waiting for your space craft,but truely am really always pleased with your hand making great,you inspire too much let God enlarge your skills.

[@YehudaKatz1]

For changing the pin order of the RJ45 connectors, you could use a 110-block or a keystone jack. You can even surface mount the keystone jacks on the outside of your box to use as your quick-disconnect.

[@tonyrmathis]

The rj45 connector stuff reminded me of making crossover cables for home lan setups for gaming parties we used to have back in the days of 28.8k internet connections.

[@tjkoker]

Great video, Jeremy. Beginners will really benefit from your experience. A suggestion: It looks like you are borderline on the 50% open-air rule for an electrical enclosure. You might want to look into putting a couple of air circulation fans in. Would hate to hear some of your components overheated and fried because of overheating. Keep up the good work. Cheers.

[@barath_aron]

Very informative video, I especially liked the safety measures. Deserves much more views!

[@mattthie9993]

NO and NC is the "de-energized" state of the relay/switch, i.e., the state it's in when it's disconnected from all power sources, and not necessarily the "resting state, the condition it is in all the time". I only think this clarification is needed because we use NO and NC relays at work, but we often have them wired to be constantly energized (so basically "NO, held closed" or "NC, held open"), so "the condition it is in all the time" wouldn't necessarily match up with what pins are actually connected.

[@elideaver]

To wire multiple limit switches in normally closed couldn’t you put them in series?

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

Eli Deaver Please check the description for more details on this

[@JusttheEdge]

@@Jeremy_Fielding all I see in the description is a link to a article about npn vs pnp.

[@TheFraggBear]

@@Jeremy_Fielding there is nothing in the description about this you are using mechanical switches there is no transistor output. If they are wired in series with NC then any one limit switch tripped will break the digital signal to the plc and so will do the same if you only had your one limit.

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

I think there was an error or something. I added a correction to the description and then it wasn't there?? I don't know what happened, but I added it again. It should be there now.

[@Cyruscosmo]

LOL... "Ask me how I know" Honestly I can not even remember the number of times I soldered connectors together and then had that DOH... Moment!

[@chuckmoore972]

Half way through and I already love this channel! Thanks Jeremy

[@klikkolee]

8:00 The common general term is just "adapter". You can be more specific with "X to Y adapter" where X is the standard of the data/power source and Y is the standard of the destination. You need to know X and Y by name if you want to find an off-the-shelf solution. If the adapter is "passive" (doesn't significantly transform the signal -- just connects pins together and maybe throws in some termination resistors), then you can fudge X and Y without harm -- Y in your case probably has the same wiring as the RJ45 standard, even though the data doesn't match the RJ45 standard, so a passive whatever-to-RJ45 would probably work.

[@OtherTheDave]

I was wondering about that... maybe one of them is configured to use a crossover cable for some reason? Also, separate from that, there’s two wiring standards for regular, non-crossover ethernet cables. Doesn’t matter which one you use as long as both ends are the same, but if you’re just comparing the color-coding on the individual conductors, you’d come to the conclusion that they were wired differently. I guess it’s at least not the latter case, since I doubt it’d work if that was what’s going on. I just can’t figure out why anyone would use RJ45 ends and ethernet cabling but not ethernet wiring.

[@klikkolee]

@@OtherTheDave The connector and the cable are used for multiple standards (not just RJ45) and multiple ad-hoc use-cases, like splitting one cable into two jacks (which would be limited in speed to 100Mb/s since the higher-speed standards require all the pairs to be present). They're cheap and freely available, and capable of carrying any kind of differential signal, so why not use them? With regards to the two wiring standards: they are coloring standards for an underlying wiring standard, and the latter is what you would need to know to purchase an adapter (RJ45 will probably get you what you want, but I'm struggling to find the actual text of the standard to determine if that is correct (as opposed to too specific or too general). Any time you're looking at the wiring of a cable, you need to compare the ends to be sure. There may be a single coloring standard, but you may have a cable with nonstandard coloring that will still work perfectly fine.

[@OtherTheDave]

klikkolee Oh, I’m not objecting to them “repurposing” ethernet cables, it just seems like using a visually standard cable with a non-standard internal wiring is just begging for trouble. Doesn’t make sense to me... use the standard cable and “reconfigure the pins” if you have to within the device. That way the fiddly parts are where people expect them to be and the cable that looks identical to a regular ethernet cable is a regular ethernet cable. Life’s hard enough without having to worry about non-standard cables.

[@klikkolee]

@@OtherTheDave Even sticking to the standards, there are lots of standards that use that cable and connector. They're really not just an "ethernet" cable and connector. Ethernet is just the most common usage in consumer spaces. They're kinda like the old RCA cables, where same type of cable is used for audio and video. They're usually color-coded for purpose, but you can use just about any RCA cable for just about any RCA-cable-needing job.

[@OtherTheDave]

klikkolee Yeah, I know. Drives me nuts.

[@01Tubee]

I am glad I found your channel! I enjoy seeing your videos and the way you explain what you are doing. Thank you, keep up the good work and God bless you and your family.

[@arthurschwieger82]

Nice video. I like the advice about having your children out in the shop. I did have a quick comment about your limit switch NC vs NO answer. I hadn't thought about it before as my controller wants the switches NO. There are two sets of pins on the controller for each axis. They are the same electronically and the controller figures out if the positive or negative switch was tripped based on its movement. When you said that having NC switches connected prevented you from having multiple switches connected, that isn't true. You just need to wire them in series vs parallel. That way if any one of the switches or connecting wires creates an open circuit, the controller will stop. I like the idea of sending a positive signal from the switch vs no signal and assuming all is good. The odds of your wiring developing a short when using NC configuration seems very minimal vs. in the NO configuration having a wire or connection break and always sending an all clear signal. I am going to check my controller to see if it will allow the NC signal and if it does, I just may switch which terminal I am using on the switches. P.S. I send a link to your video where you were showing off your new CNC machine and he has been drooling ever since as he would love to have something like that in his shop. :-)

[@BlaBla-jk9mk]

Hi Jeremy, first of all, love your video's. And for the encoder, i like your solution. However, the first thing that comes into my mind, that also would be cheap, is to cut off the connector and put a new one on in the right order. This would save you some space. I used to create these cables all the time, working in IT. Inside are just the 4 pairs of cables and you can easly rewire them to a different order. Also i would recommend to use sftp cable as it would protect the signal due to the insulated shielding.

[@CYoung-hq7zs]

You have amazing videos! Came here from smarter everyday and am loving it!

[@davidbrewer7937]

A properly applied crimp pin for instance in a connector shell beats a soldered wire to pin connection any time. Soldered connections are not common in panel building. Under some versions of electrical code, they are actually prohibited in some instances for instance in high current power carrying conductors.

[@digoulm]

I really love your videos, including this one. But for me as a German it is really funny how you say "DIN". DIN is a german abreviation which stands for "Deutsche Industrie Norm" which translates to "German Industry Standard" in english. The "I" in DIN is a long vocal so it should sound more like "dean". 😉

[@harrypehkonen]

Today, my "like" was brought to you by "ask me how I know" ;D I was thinking it would have been nice to have the high-voltage parts and wires (>50V) separated from the low-voltage stuff, but it looks like that would be not so easy to do in practice. You're an awesome dad!!!

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

I thought about having two panels for that purpose but I was eventually motivated by the fact that it would all actually fit in one cabinet. I completely agree it would be the best practice

[@garagemonkeysan]

Great job on the video. Description was easy to understand. Great engineering. Congrats on sponsor! Mahalo for sharing. : )

[@jonaslinchangco824]

Inspiring content Jeremy. Currently making a CNC plasma table myself. Keep making 'em!

[@jraschke]

Great video! Love seeing kids in the shop.

[@bob-the-Millwright]

this video needs 10 thumbs up, great video!!!

[@dzee9481]

Jeremy, excellent video explaining the POWER Supply for a CNC machine. I would hope you explain couple of things about VFDs. 1. Which is the better VFDs to use for especially at home, since the homes in the US are single phase 120/220. I have read that getting a spindle that is 2.2Kw and 220 volts is not good to run on a VFD that takes 120/220 volts single phase and converts it to 220 volt 3 Phase. It would great to hear your point of view since you have done excellent videos on various motors. :)

[@kareno8634]

Smile on my face Made By You Jeremy! Works well and what I needed to Fit my day! ~ Thanks! note: I don't make or really understand all this, but I DO Know ~ W0W! Look how much you've done! I Enjoy listening about ALL created. Hold Close the Sound a Energy of Your Kids - They grow up too fast! Hi to them & 'Mom' there as well! Cheers to All : } ~- *

[@sdspivey]

You show the multiple NO in parallel, you can do multiple NC in series. It is just a bitwise AND or OR arrangement.

[@H2Dwoat]

Hi, any chance you can show a close up of the soldering process, I’m not sure I understand what you mean about filling the cup and dunking the wire in?

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

I will consider this... I plan to do more videos around this topic so I might be able to show that somewhere.

[@joelwatts9042]

For several normally closed limit switches, hook them in series.

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

Great Idea... I hate I missed that. There will probably be 100 comments from people telling me I could do that LOL. I will add a note to the description. This is a simple and probably obvious solution to people who design these cabinets for a living.

[@TimothySielbeck]

@@Jeremy_Fielding I was going to suggest this but since you know, I won't.

[@1pcfred]

This being an overview presentation I would not expect such details. I'm sure there's videos of people soldering cup terminals. In fact searching the term soldering cup terminals several pop up.

[@Dwilli9013]

Always a pleasure watching your videos Jeremy. Keep up the great work and keep em coming.

[@taylorwhitt3974]

You could use a few different things for your ethernet problem. A 66 block is great for wire wrap, or an ethernet patch panel with a impact drive. As for what you're using, it's basically a biscuit. There's usually a standard between ethernet devices. EIA/TIA 568A/B, crossover, rollover. depends on client and terminal.

[@jeffpeterson6335]

The last 2 minutes was the best!

[@chrissteene]

if you have a home depot near you you should buy spool of (rj45) cable and connectors wear the wires poke thru and when you crimp the connector it cuts off the what is not needed and leaves a nice clean look and yes they work great I did my whole home that way I hope this helps you save time and money and most of all room from having to much wire laying around and to many unneeded connectors

[@karlirvin5904]

What was the cost? I missed the spreadsheet.

[@toycobra12]

Great video. Thanks for walking us though each component and step. Very informative and helpful.

[@Danny.._]

depending on the pinout, you may be able to use an RJ45 Crossover adapter. They're made for connecting one computer directly to another, rather than going through a router/switch, which means the pinout is "backwards."

[@rpavlik1]

For the cat5 "translator" you might be able to find a "punch-down block" that is the kind of thing used when doing telecom wiring with all kinds of RJ cables (as long as you don't need the twisted-pair nature of the cat5 cable, which it sounds like you probably don't)

[@MikeysLab]

One note, optical limit switches should be considered. They are very precise and consistent. For example with mechanical switches, you can get slop of a couple 10th of a mm, optical has no slop. In your example they would be better and cheaper than the proxy switches. I would also suggest solid state relays, a little more expensive, but there is no arch on switching, hence much less of a fire hazard. No applicable here, but it also a lot faster at switching.

[@Jeremy_Fielding]

Can optical switches operate covered in saw dust, or that plasma soot that gets on everything? Real question I don’t know.

[@MikeysLab]

@@Jeremy_Fielding I have seen them used in such environments, they are usually covered, with just a slit for the interrupter to pass through. I would put brushes over the slit as well.

[@nickreed1367]

love the electrical aspects! keep em coming!

[@mikenorfleet2235]

Maybe the wire you needed off the shelf was a "crossover" Ethernet cable? There are really just two types of RJ45 cables (crossover and straight through), unless the company who manufactured the encoder did something really special just for their stuff (a possibility). Your pin out board is a better flexible solution to make any off the shelf cord work as long as you know the pin out it needs to be. Probably save yourself money than buying "special made" cords from any manufacturer.

[@technosaurus3805]

For your rj45 you can just clip off the ends and crimp on a new one with wires however you want. I used to do something like that to connect 2 windows 95 boxes together without a lan - just 1 cable

[@whitesheatingairappliancer7101]

Great build. Question how can you have a program cycle that runs the same every time the machine is started?

[@Leonarco333]

Like a crossover cable? Where the wires are crossed so the order of wires is different at one plug than the other. They have them, but I don’t know if the order is right. You can cut the end off, reorder the cables and crimp on a new connector.

[@davetubeu]

Great content! Great Dad to those kiddos keep up the good work!