Should you build a VORON 2.4 in 2023? (LDO Kit Review)

[@CNCKitchen]

VORON 2.4 - Overhyped or everything you desire?

[@FoxSock]

i want it but am broke lmao

[@Jan-pz5ox]

If you are serious about voron printers then it is not hype. But if you use a cheap kit from China then you are not serious in my opinion and voron is a hype for you. I am building one myself. The 350mm version of LDO. I chose the prusa colors. prusament ASA black and orange.

[@notsam498]

I love my voron 2.4. with the exception of being able to print engineering materials that require high temperature chambers. It does everything I want!

[@3DPI67]

It is just right👌

[@The123eh]

You can make a Voron virtually silent, it doesn't need to run the bottom fan at any more than the lowest setting, the fans are there to cool the Raspberry Pi and the controller board(s), and both really just need a little bit of air circulation even if you pre-heat the bed to its max temp for an hour before you start printing

[@Hopeinformer]

That's the part that gets me. I bought the kit in full, nearly $2k and they didn't even provide the wiring harness but a couple spools of wires and a bag of connectors, while KZbinrs get a full kit for free of charge for a review. Plus often get extras. Spend the $1800+ and then offer a more reliable review. If I didn't have to pay for the kit I can easily over look a lot of negative points

[@yo_vlad]

U should have gotten a Bambu X1 carbon instead, it's cheaper and better

[@Hopeinformer]

@@yo_vlad it's not the printer that's the problem, it's the suppliers like LDO. That said, I wish they had the Bambu Lab X1 a year ago when I started my Voron collection. I totally would've got one.

[@BelviGER]

That's weird, I had one of the first 350 ldo kits out there and it came with a full wiring kit

[@DD-sw1dd]

@@Hopeinformer The only problem with the Bambu stuff is all the proprietary hardware. Whereas with a Voron you can do whatever you want. I almost got the P1P awhile back. But opted to wait and see what these will be like after some realistic mileage.

[@henryglends]

@@yo_vlad that’s subjective, there are issues with the rods.

[@ChromePhoenixQ]

I run a print farm in Alberta, Canada with 11 Voron 2.4r2, and here's my opinion after building all these printers and running over 100k hours on them. If you are a hobbyist, and have the time, absolutely, build one, super rewarding and satisfying. But you NEED to have a love for tinkering, because you will need to tune them to get the "Voron" performance. And when things break, you will have to fix it yourself. For us as a print farm, vorons are great in that anytime we need to replace something, we can have it done as quickly as we can print the parts. They are reliable workhorses as long as you set them up right and maintain them properly. If you are someone that just needs quick prototypes, get a pre-built printer. Maintaining vorons to keep their performance up is really a job all on its own, and requires a lot of attention and dedication.

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks for sharing your experience! This totally reflects my opinion as well. Side question - did you build all of them and how long did it take you in the end? 😅

[@ChromePhoenixQ]

@@CNCKitchen I was originally using them to manufacture parts for my startup so I had a small team. I built the first two, compiled the "4 instruction manuals" + supporting documentation I learned from devs in the discord into one step by step manual, and taught the rest of my team to build them. In the end we finished tuning the last Voron after about 4 ish months. It took my entire last summer and I had to sleep at the office a lot. Stuff didn't really work out so now pivoted to manufacturing consumer products (cause the quality is fantastic) where we use a pneumatic ejection system I designed to help small local businesses grow with thousands of parts a month. Being able to eject parts allows me to make gcode files to use up an entire spool at a time. I wouldn't trust any other printer to run a 100+ hour file.

[@FletcherHillier]

​@@ChromePhoenixQ All summer for 11 machines sounds like too much investment. Even at $2/h you can pay off a Creality K1 in a couple weeks.

[@FletcherHillier]

​@@ChromePhoenixQ All summer for 11 machines sounds like too much investment. Even at $2/h you can pay off a Creality K1 in a couple weeks.

[@Vez3D]

For me.. a good reason to do a DIY printer over a bamboo (which is a super nice printer) is the fact that it is a a DIY. There is a lot of fun making and building something yourself and be proud of it. And you learn so much in the making, which will make you a way better 3d printer operator and will be easily able to troubleshoot and maintain the printer since you know it from bottom up :) Good video there again my friend!! Thanks for sharing 👍 and kudos to Voron designers! I have too been dreaming of that printer before because it looks so nice :)

[@probablyblue426]

@@Dashitishere22 “for me” He did build his own printer 😂😂

[@Dashitishere22]

@@probablyblue426 aw shit you right lol

[@probablyblue426]

@@Dashitishere22 You made my day 😂😂

[@Vez3D]

@@probablyblue426 i did build a voron before going into vz world. I built a 1.5 because i was too broke for v2 back in the days. That was before i knew how to use cad software and before i decided to build my own. But i was dreaming of a v2 when all i had was 2 tonxy p802ma haha. Then my knowledge increased and got into a goal of printing faster and faster with better quality...and that led me to vzbot...and that voron 1.5 became an organ donor for my Vz-235

[@probablyblue426]

@@Vez3D Wow I thought you just had the tronxy X5S and decided to rework the printer. great story!

[@benupde1979]

I self sourced and built my Voron 2.4 over the span of a couple months. I spent less than $900usd on it by catching things on sale and scoring a Pi4b for actual retail price! Love it!

[@HumanShield117]

There's also a software-mod called "automatic z calibration" that actually bounces the klicky probe off the z-endstop, baby stepping the z-offset. There's a little bit of tuning, and it can be a little confusing when first installing it. But it's is totally worth it. You can change the build plate without having to change any settings. :)

[@CNCKitchen]

Oh, that sounds tempting! I'll take a look at it. Thanks for sharing.

[@twistedvyon6234]

@@CNCKitchen its a must after adding klicky, it makes every print just "start print" and leave it alone.

[@coorexz]

@@twistedvyon6234 I absolutely love it. I've had one failed print since the install and that was just due to a small little ooze-blob messing with the values.

[@Daepilin]

works even better with the sexbolt mod! With the default endstop I had still a bit of inconsistency, with a spring loaded sexbolt my first layers are perfect, every time

[@HumanShield117]

@@coorexz In my experience, the offset-tolerance almost always catches when this happens, and error's-out of the print-job. It defaults to a max-offset of 1mm, but you can adjust it. It tells you how much it adjusts, and I'd check if I where to try and tune it to make things more reliable. But right before z-calibration is also the only time I brush my nozzle.

[@mrendall90]

For what it's worth, while I'm sure the LDO kit is lovely, I have zero regrets about going with the Formbot kit. I've had no issues with any of the components.

[@willyvanas]

I have had a self-built Hypercube for years, it has been running 24/7 for 6 months straight and has given no problems, looks a lot like the Voron, I am very happy with the printer and will definitely build a 3rd because the 2nd smaller fursion was straight to the big execution building, I LOVE THE XYcore machines

[@benvrakas6665]

Hypercube Evolution Gang. I have probably ran hundreds of KG of filament through my HEVO in the 6 years I've had it

[@OzFaxFlyer]

I agree completely - built my Hypercube as my first printer from the printed parts supplied by Tech3D, and learnt way too much about so many things. It still runs fast and true. Ok, I also own a Mk3S+ and enjoy "just getting the part", but as in most things, served my apprenticeship and look back with fond memories.

[@2112user]

I've got the HEVO too, love it but still never found the "perfect" bowden or extruder setup for mine. Running an E3D v6, but the heat creap and part cooling was killing me, so modified it a bit at the reduction of speed. What are you running, and do you know of any groups to join to see what others have done? Edit: Also, interested in upgrading from the Ramps/Arduino sandwich to something more capable (speed and memory size for Marlin options), any recomendations?

[@willyvanas]

@@2112user I have a standard setup with to types of hotends with a bodum end without and both are printing fine and one print had de Ramps setup and the second one the BTT 1.3 turbo setup.

[@chemicalcorrosion]

I’ve been SLOWLY building my LDO Voron 350 kit. When I get free time, I go down to the workroom and finish a step. It really is a very nice kit.

[@petermaersk-moller3014]

I have built a Voron 2.4 last year based on Formbot and before cable harness became common available. Went for Dragon High Flow. Simply love it. Love that ABS/ASA/Nylon and other high temp chamber filaments just work. Added a lot of mods, lights, temp sensors, humidity sensor, two cameras, new spool holder, emergency shut off button and 24V PS controlled via relay from Pi. Also added 10mm foam isolation for bottom and back and modded for that. Next is temo sensors on A/B motors as well as all stepepr controllers. Added permanent mount ADXL345 for resonans test. It is worth all the hype.

[@CNCKitchen]

Great to hear that! Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@Frankie_Freedom]

Where did you get the hardware from?

[@Raymond-u8x]

Parts from the Print It Forward program are ALWAYS done on Vorons. This is a requirement for becoming a printer for PIF

[@RubixB0y]

But how pure is the bloodline? Can the Voron's in a PIF program be made out of parts printed on a non-Voron :ooo

[@joshuavincent7884]

How are they gonna know, check the exif data of a physical part? Lol

[@LudwigRuderstaller]

@@joshuavincent7884 doc is strict and there is a lengthy screening process befor you are allowed to print parts as pif provider.

[@joshuavincent7884]

@@LudwigRuderstaller that's interesting. What exactly is the point of the requirement the parts be printed on a Voron? I'm genuinely curious. I can understand material and quality requirements but I don't get the Voron thing, is it part of the philosophy or something.

[@stevenb6098]

@@joshuavincent7884 It has a lot to do with quality and bragging rights. It's "For Vorons by Vorons" and showcases to new builders what a Voron that it tuned correctly can really do. But it really falls to, I think, the guy who is in charge of PIF (Doc) simply doesn't want the hassle of trying to get other printers to the PIF quality standards,

[@teenflon]

I have a 2.4 and it is fantastic. Built was great fun, tuning was a bit of a pain but now it prints everything perfectly

[@Thisdudechannel]

I just completed my voron build. What an amazing experience. I enjoyed every part of it. I learned so much about conexy and know everything about my machine. It is a well engineered and work horse. Build not bought. Not knocking on bamboo I was seconds away from pulling the trigger on a x1c with ams for 1299 during Black Friday but that’s the easy way out. I needed a challenge and I got one with voron. Shout out to the discord guys. You guys rocks!

[@joelbisson8323]

I self-sourced a 350mm Voron 2.4 and I have a Bambu X1C. Both are great and offer different use cases. I would highly recommend both.

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@stephenjohnson4955]

When I decided to build a Voron, it was for light commercial production. Whereas a Bambo would now fit that market, it did not exist at that time. The commercial printers I did have experience with were far less capable, and cost far more (you pay for a machine that works right out of the box with slicer settings even "that one guy" in your office can use; you don't pay for the best printer). In 2021, I felt that the Voron hype was a very real thing, and I still do. The printer is extremely capable, dependable, and customizable. You are correct that this is not a machine for those that don't want to tinker. You don't *have* to tinker with it, beyond maintenance, but DIY printers are aimed at those that tinker to begin with, and it's strongly encouraged. The printer is fast (I tend to now run it slower than theoretical limits, but I have not messed around with input shaper yet) and is extremely accurate. I have made 0.025mm z parts with a 0.20mm nozzle on a 350x350x500 custom v2.4 (yes, shame on me for wasting so much build volume), and they look almost like they were a resin print. They are clean looking, and don't look like a middle schooler's science project. Is it worth the cost over lastest generation cheaper prosumer out-of-the-box options (like the Bamboo)? I don't know, since I have not personally used the newest generation. The Voron does take a lot of time to setup, and I spent as much time running DIY wire looms (self sourced build) as assembling the mechanics, which should be factored into the cost difference. But I don't regret my purchase (though I did swear a little too loudly when I later heard the LDO kits would come with precrimped harnesses), and reccomend Vorons to fellow tinkerers wanting something more capable than their Ender 3. Edit: Also be aware that with more and more modern commercial printers adopting Klipper, the 'monopoly' that DIY printers had on advanced features is changing. Two years ago, the community also hyped a Voron because it had access to features and improvements not available in off-the-shelf stock configs. Are they still riding that wave? Yes. Would I today build a third voron or buy a Bambu? I'd build a Voron Trident in a heartbeat. I'm a tinkerer, and I want it to be MY Voron, not THE Voron, as you said.

[@laberbla]

Well... this video was kicking me to start a build even in 2023. My Voron 2.4 is now 30% done and should be completed within the next two or three weeks (as I'm sourcing all the parts by myself) and it is just as you said it: A really enjoyable project, a great experience and after all it is so nice to really know what you're building. I've been highly interested in buying a Bambulab printer first, but then I recognized that I would be "trapped" in the Bambulab ecosystem and not able to modify anything to match my exact needs. At the moment I am running a highly modified Anycubic Mega and missing the ability to modify the printer is not an option for me. Thanks for your videos: I really enjoy the very most of them.

[@GeneralKenobi69420]

Update?

[@derbacksteinbacker4942]

ive built a 2.4 300 with an ldo kit, it was my first ever printer build. The main reason was speed, and i can say i wasn´t dissapointed! I put a Mosquito Magnum in there and usually run it with a 0.6 nozzle at speeds around 200-300mm/s at a layerheight of 0.2mm. The Print quality is outstanding and over the last months i found my other printes just collecting dust because simply don´t use them anymore, why would I? I am already thinking about the next Voron and i think i might build a Tridex (Trident as an Idex) next. The build of my 2.4 was challenging at times, wich i was expecting, but i got everything sorted with the help of the guys over at the Voron Discord. I have experienced the Voron community as verry helpful overall, its a great bunch of people and i am shure that is a big reason why Voron is so popular. All in all building a voron is a great project, you will learn a lot, you will have ups and downs but in the end you got a printer you build yourself and you got endless customizability options. It is totally worth it!

[@qozia1370]

Yeah get an flsun v400 and get 400 mms right out of the box for less than 1000 usd

[@mr.payless6749]

@@qozia1370you should delete this comment it’s really embarrassing

[@kageofkonoha]

Using my Bambu X1C to print my Voron 2.4 parts. I am excited to have both.

[@BeefIngot]

While not building a voron I too print printer parts on my X1C. Its nice to have a printer to not worry a out when you have multiple others because now you can choose whether to worry rather than being forced

[@TTS-TP]

And this is my goal currently

[@jayphone1]

Hearing about the raw part costs of the Voron 2.4 it is really astonishing to me how Bambulab can keep their prices in a comparable range.

[@LudwigRuderstaller]

Production volume :)

[@pizzablender]

Overengineering creates a machine without compromise. But really smart engineering makes it 'good enough'. Which is, as it says, good enough.

[@davidbucek]

LDO kit is littlebit overpriced ... Formbot is much better in price/value, also very nice kits dont have some fancy parts but you dont need them :)

[@caramelzappa]

Really comes down to them building it from the ground up for manufacturing vs having to buy tons of off the shelf seperate parts and connect them together. The frame alone of the bambu is going to be huge cost savings compared to extrusions. Same goes for the carbon rods vs linear rails, and using a single motor for the Z axis instead of 3 (trident) or 4 (2.4). By being in control of every part and designing the printer from the ground up they can save a ton of material and manufacturing cost, assuming they move enough volume to make up for the initial R&D and tooling costs.

[@jayphone1]

@@caramelzappa Thought by using of the shelf parts, i. e. kind of standard, mass produced parts, for the Voron, the raw ingredients should be quite cheap already. And the assembly costs of the printer are fully paid by the customer with his spare time.

[@Runoratsu]

This is exactly why I backed the X1C, too. I WANT a boring _tool_ that can churn out the parts I want to create easily, quickly and reliably. Where I can buy replacement parts for a reasonable price instead of having to create them just when I really don’t have time for that. I might still tinker with some of my other printers, but there’s so much _more_ you can make instead when your printers simply do what they’re supposed to and you don’t have to pamper them.

[@teguh.hofstee]

That's why I got a Prusa i3 when I got my first printer, but it has made me want to build a V0 :) X1C also looks fantastic but I don't need a second printer at that build volume, though I would have had a much more difficult decision to make if it was available at the time.

[@shadow7037932]

The X1 is a closed system. Who knows how long they are going to be around/in business. With a Prusa for example, everything is off the shelf stuff and easy to replace in comparison.

[@Nobody-Nowhere]

@@shadow7037932 but prusa is horribly outdated and way overpriced

[@Todestelzer]

I finished my Voron long ago. There is no tinkering anymore. Just printing part after part. The last “mod” 9 months ago was the ERCF(MMU) for 150€. The only mods I suggest is Klicky probe with auto-z and Nevermore to get the air moving inside the enclosure.

[@IcyqtLoL]

@@Nobody-Nowhere what is a good alternative for a prusa mini? (Tinker free printer around 400-500$)

[@SeanTaffert]

I've build a V0 two years ago from a LDO kit for $850, and designed and built a 1m^3 HEVORT using NEMA 23 servo-steppers with $40k in hardware. Buy the LDO kit. They are reasonably good parts, wiring is almost perfect, and whatever it costs to change something your don't like in the kit (fans) is still WAY less expensive than going self-source. Big kudos to LDO for dong a very good job on the kits. My next project will be a V2.4r2 kit from LDO with a ERCF 6 channel feeder.

[@icemanbldr]

I built the Prusa MK3s because I was a first timer, because I didn't want to spend hours and hours debugging a DIY printer. (I built a wood CNC machine patterned after one of your very first videos as my first jump into the general area) I'm glad I purchased the MK3 as I have had a great deal of fun and productive results using it. Having built it I was able to trouble shoot problems with the machine too. Now when it comes to the Voron, it may be beyond my skill level, so I'm looking at kits or pre-builts. For me it all boils down to balancing productive, fun printing versus hours and energy spent puzzle solving of a DIY build. So far I lean towards the printing side. thanks for the video about the Voron and your thoughts on the build process.

[@Akegata42]

I love my 2.4. I don't really feel like using any of my other printers after I built it. It's really nice and somehow actually fun to print with. There are certainly some mods that make it rock steady, but with those in place it's just really really nice.

[@manu45game]

i build my voron with an Formbot Kit buyed at their website, and paid $941.15 shipping incl. in aug 21. the quality was very well. just wanna let you guys know

[@No0o0o0o0o0]

No regrets getting my Bambulab X1C. Fast accurate speeds. Nice size build volume, 256cubed. No building, optimizing, sourcing parts, flashing firmware and best of all cheaper with an AMS and enclosure. Basically plug it in and start printing. For the DIYers Vorons are a great projects, just not the best deal if you can't get the parts at a good price.

[@martijnpeters]

If I had to choose right now, I would have gone with the bambulab instead of building a Voron. I love building stuff, but the novelty of building my own printer has gone and would prefer buying a tool instead of a project now.

[@muniradlan3659]

@@martijnpeters same situation as me. I like building things, especially tech based but I know that I'll only build the printer once and the rest of the time it'll be printing, so even if building a voron would be fun, the fine tuning would be a headache when I just want it to reliably print 24/7 like the Bambu Lab X1C. The X1 also has multi colour printing, LiDAR, Cameras, its own slicer & app plus countless other features which make it more advanced than the voron (its also faster).

[@tombeardy4833]

The X1 and X1C still showing pretty often issues which is the reason why i didnt jump in yet :/ And the buildvolume is too small for me to be honest. but the idea and the ppl behind bambulab are gr8

[@reinux]

I cancelled my bambulab pledge because I didn't like the privacy policy and the fact that if relationships keep going sour with China, we may run out of spare parts.

[@hawtdayum]

@@reinux What exact wording in the privacy policy is concerning? I read through Bambulab, creality, even prusa and it's a standard boiler plate policy. Every company that does business in the US, EU or wherever has to follow the laws of that country. At the time of writing there are no printers able to compete with the X1 and X1 Carbon for the price. enclosed, able to print all types of materials, camera, lidar, remote controls and so much more. And if a country is running sour trade with china we will be in a whole lot more issues than a 3d printer.

[@masimplo]

The DIY perspective is the more dominant one in the decision I believe. Another aspect to consider when comparing a Voron (or any other open platform) is their upgradability. For instance I started with a Voron 1.8 a few years back with an Afterburner V6 with a less precise inductive probe, not a removable steel PEI plate, less sensors, no nevermore filter etc and the same machine is now a much more capable Voron Trident with a Stealthburner Dragon HF and all the bells whistles. Bamboolabs X1 is a great printer and will probably be for a few years to come, but I think future upgradability is something to consider also.

[@xLuPo]

what I also see as a good point for getting one is, if yours is working, then you know the Printer and also easily can upgrade it or replace broken parts with ease

[@thadude3]

I built my Voron before the bamboo x1 was even kickstarted. So then the hype was real. Now it seems a lot of machines have caught up. But as you said it doesn't take away from the Voron and all that time building and tweaking makes it your own. Now I think i'd totally get the bamboo for simplicity and price. It seems like a great machine.

[@vfastdriver]

I self-sourced a voron 2.4 300x300 and printed the parts with an ender 3. I really love this machine! It feels unique, fast and reliable. Also very nice and helpful community with a lot of support and mods.

[@CNCKitchen]

Great to hear!

[@groto27]

Did you print ABS on the ender 3? Was it difficult to get good quality?

[@vfastdriver]

@@groto27 I used abs+ which is more "forgiving" than regular abs. Of course I have esteps and flow calibrated combined with slow speeds parts came out great. Once I got the voron up and running i printed some spares just in case.

[@riccardosacchetti]

I have done the ratrig v-core. With about 1100 € you get a really nice machine!

[@josephvanas6352]

Building a voron 2.4 and have already learned so much. I got my CR-10V3 set up to print ASA for all the printed parts and now have the ability to print ASA and that alone has been worth the effort.

[@voicesarefree]

As another commenter noted, the side panels will significantly dampen the noise. I also spent some time tweaking motor settings and switched the skirt fans to 12v (and not 100%) which make the printer quiet enough to be inaudible while teleconferencing in the same room.

[@ChromePhoenixQ]

90% of the noise from my 11 vorons is from the server fans. Which panels do not cover.

[@dezent]

The messing around with stuff is half the joy of owning a 3D printer. LDO seems like a solid company and I will give Voron a try!

[@CNCKitchen]

100% agree

[@simontanguay3619]

Love the Vorons. Love the diy philosophy. Built my own trident a couple months back (formbot kit with a couple mods). It is a pleasure in itself to tinker and optimize the build for ever greater speed and quality.

[@EnchiladaBro]

Any suggestions for a new LDO trident owner? 3d print parts come Monday and all I've been able to assemble without them, is the base frame. I feel like I don't know shit about octo pi or raspb pi or klipper, or any of it lol been randomly browsing through KZbin to try and get good basis knowledge of hardware mechanics and software, but not an easy taste per say. Any suggestions ? Voron discord has been good but they can only do so much , I need like a long format informative videos on it

[@simontanguay3619]

@@EnchiladaBro Look up Nero3d youtube channel. He does tons of voron builds and is the reference.

[@TomTom-zx7lo]

That helmet picture is _AWESOME_!!!!! It's poster boy material for filament run-out: "Don't let this happen to you!"

[@CNCKitchen]

I might leave it like this 🤘

[@AndrewAHayes]

I am extremly surprised none of the manufacturers have come up with a 90% ready built Voron 2.4 yet, I am sure there are many people out there who would want this, I wanted a Voron a couple of years ago but could never find a kit that was fully in stock and some of the parts were not good quality and I was hearing of people having to replace parts, in the end I decided to go for a Pro 3D V-King 400, I self sourced the BOM with the very best quality parts I could get my hands on, because of this I paid quite a lot in shipping costs but I ended up with a wicked machine.

[@Rushmere3D]

I've seen a kit with printed parts now on AliExpress it's only a matter of time before they involve to partly made, but I think that would increase the price. Personally I'd rather build it myself.

[@AndrewAHayes]

@@Rushmere3D Me also, I think I enjoy building almost as much as printing with them!

[@eastcoast8435]

Old video, but still very relevant. TY. I'm currently STILL running my original Folgertech 2020 reprap rig in a custom enclosure, modified with E3D hotend, SKR 1.4 running Klipper off a RbPi, input shaping with an ADXL345 S2DW accelerometer, and now a BTT Eddy. Printing just keeps getting better/easier with every upgrade, I love the versatility of a home-built system.

[@davydatwood3158]

I fully agree with your distinction between the X1C and the Voron: one is for just using, and one is for building and tinkering. The different build volumes are the only reason I might build a Voron, now - bascially, I'd really like a very high precision small build volume printer with a 0.2mm nozzle. But even with that in mind, the truth is at an X1C isn't much more money than a V0, and would be a *lot* less stress and frustration, so the only reason not to just get a second X1C for the small detail stuff is finding somewhere to put it.

[@MaethorDerien]

The thing is if you want a small but high precision option then go with a resin 3d printer. My issue with the X1 came down to build volume, I want my next printer to have a bit more volume. I already have a great printer that does 235 by 235 and a resin printer for small detailed models. Ideally a 300mm volume would have been perfect for it.

[@Penofhell]

To be honest once build and tuned a Voron is a productivity workhorse, I don't ever touch mine except to change filaments and take printed parts out of the printer.

[@Todestelzer]

@@Penofhell yeah you thinker with it for the first 1-2 months but later you just print with it. I am very pleased with my Voron 2.4.

[@davydatwood3158]

@@MaethorDerien Fair. I have pretty f'ed up lungs already and the hassle of dealing with resin doesn't seem worth it to me.

[@davydatwood3158]

@@Penofhell Yeah, but that's like saying "Napoleon could have easily conquered Europe once he defeated Russia." It's ignoring the fact that "once build (sic) and tuned" hides a *lot* of work and frustration.

[@Stirringthepotagain]

I went with the Troodon 2.0 which is basically just a Voron 2.4 80% pre-assembled. Works great.

[@drumsmichael]

Just got my kit a week ago and am done with the frame and am waiting on printed parts 🥳

[@Marv3D]

I've built 2 LDO 350 kits for work and I think they are much much quieter with the side panels on than my MK3S at home. They print in our office and nobody is annoyed by the sound because you can't hear it sitting 2-3 m away from it.

[@CNCKitchen]

I'll see how the noise level changes once I install the panels next week. Yet the fans in the electronics compartment will still remain.

[@Marv3D]

@@CNCKitchen I changed the electronics fans to 30%. The temps are still fine an the fans are very quiet in my case. But you are right, it would be good to change these sooner or later

[@CodeZombie]

@@CNCKitchen I dropped my fan speed to to about 50%, and added a ducted fan across the stepper drivers as well. That really gets the electronics bay noise right down.

[@davidweidhofer9284]

i used noctua pwm fans for electronic compartment. they are silent even at full power. also they can be regulated very well.

[@dmytro.d]

@@CNCKitchen panels do help quite a bit for the fans within the enclosure. But for me the electronics ones were the most annoying. I replaced them with noctua a6x25.

[@ZhechenZhu]

Having built and owned a VORON 2.4 for two years, I'm very inclined to purchase a printer like the Bambu X1. Just so that I could have a functioning printer when I'm modding my VORON which is way too often.

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks for sharing and a great point!

[@tavarisjones551]

Sounds to me like you need *2* vorons...

[@tcsgarden6633]

I love my Voron V2.4r2. So much so that I don't use my other printers at all since I finished my build. I find that I know and understand my V2 so much better than the other printers and I can say that is due to having built it. I love building things and making things, so this was a natural fit for me. Now I just need to finish building it its workbench home and get it off my desk!.

[@terrorzwerg5963]

I have one 350 build as a workhorse with over 3000 priting hours.at tthe moment i build a 300 v2 when this is done, i will rebuild den 350 and fit him with a ercf. love the freedome of the voron project. especally the firmeware and slicer thing. I do not like to be forced to do x or y. the vorons are well designt, there is a very helpfull community and mods for every peace you dont like. so I love the voron

[@WhiteWulfe]

A couple of things come to mind... - Latest design? The v2.4 is older than the Trident ~_^ Improvements made from the Trident were ported to v2.4r2, and then additional things noticed were ported to Trident R1 (like the idlers). This is also why they stopped with the numbered designs, because far too many assumed The Voron 2 was newer and therefore "better" than the Voron 1. - You also mention cube build space, but the v2.4 is actually -20mm on the z (so a 300mm frame has 280mm height capability). Then again, it would seem that many resellers state this, despite the fact the Voron configurator on their site will showcase the slightly lower height capability. - You mention "probably printed on a Voron". Print it Forward parts ~MUST~ be printed on a serial'd Voron, and those involved in PIF must pass a vetting process before they can participate in such. You can't even apply for PIF until you've gained a serial on one machine. I do love the detailed breakdown of the whole experience, and doubly so the comparison between a Voron 2.4 and other options on the marketplace such as the Bambulab X1C. It's a very valid comparison, not just because they're similar price points, but like you stated, there's something about being able to take it out of the box, do a little bit of work (as there's a tiny bit of assembly required) and then being able to print. For what I spent on my Voron Trident (I got a Formbot kit) I not only could have acquired a Prusa MK3S+ that was pre-built, but been printing for at least two months since I kept discovering I'd forgotten to pick up one tool as I got through various steps.

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

The local 3D printing shop started selling this LDO kit, so great timing on the review.

[@CNCKitchen]

I hope I could help you a little in your decision process.

[@caramelzappa]

There are so many options in the same ballpark now. 2.4, Trident, Bambu, Vzbot, Annex K3, Ratrig, Rolohauns Simplecore or Defiant Croxy, and so may others. And soon the upcoming Prusa XL. Truly difficult to decide on one.

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks for the list! Yet again you've got the clear distinction between the printer kits and the out of the box experiences. Everyone needs to decide what they want and especially the kits are simply a great tinker project that can teach a ton!

[@user-yk1cw8im4h]

Voron is the best supported out of the DIY bunch. And Trident is the most modern.

[@MNanme1z4xs]

A kit is the best way to start on custom printer, for those who want to learn the technology this voron is a great guide on the world of printer engineering

[@nextInsiders]

I think the reason why Voron is so hyped, is that if you want all of those good things Voron includes, you don't really have much choices in the market. And the open source nature means, that eventually, you can mod it to be better than anything else in the market.

[@Tom--Ace]

Theoretically better. Everything on a voron is theoretically potentially better than a bambu x1c. But the x1c is a well tuned package that works better out of the box and overall, while the vorons are a huge time sink with lots of little things that go wrong and need to be figured out (like the nozzle cleaning). The bambu also has way better software integration and multi material and multicolour printing to boot. This is not a knock on the voron. It's a great printer design! It is a reflection on proprietary tuning VS open source tinkering. This is why I prefer Windows for any machine I actually want to game or work on, while open source stuff like Linux is great for a tinkering machine. When you just need to get shit done, a proprietary solution is often just superior because someone tested and stood behind it Unless of course they don't, in which case a proprietary solution is the WORST! Open source splits the difference and hedges your bets - you probably won't get the best product out there, but you'll get something that is high end and works with some work

[@nextInsiders]

@@Tom--Ace Vorons are like a Ferrari that you tinker with. If I put mine on the line, I can smoke Bamboo but that's not the point really. I can If I wanted to build a super reliable print farm with Vorons it would be just expensive, not unreliable.

[@lolikongpoi7868]

I look you video for years and nearly bought a 350 voron2.4, just before this video released. I am so surprise that voron2.4 is so cost there in EU. I got the well tuned seconed hand voron for under 555US$. And a well built new voron2.4 cost just near 650US$ in China. As a consider X1 carbon cost 1000US$. Bamboo really make some awesome devices if someone just want a 3d print for test or limited manufacture.

[@ldomotorsjason3488]

Thanks Stefan for nice video and straight reviews! 👍

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks for the kit! It was a pleasure.

[@grasstreefarmer]

With over 3000Hrs of printing on my 350x350x400 Voron 2.4 it only gets better all the time as I continually and gradually shape it to my needs over time. Maybe the new prebuilts will be able to stand up as well over time (though I have concerns they might not) but they will never appeal to me. I self sourced all my parts but if the LDO kit had been available then I would have seriously considered it. My Voron is not just just a hobby toy, its a seriously useful tool that has already paid for itself and I know will continue to improve with new and better parts as they come along. I still use the inductive probe because I just haven't had the issues that some have had and I can't even remember what a bad first layer was like because it just works. I use an active chamber heater so it warms up quickly and it gives me super accurate, super strong parts every time. I just vacuum it out and keep the rails greased regularly. I've only had to replace 2 40mm part cooling fans.

[@byKOGR]

THANK YOU :D So long i was waiting for a video about that!

[@CNCKitchen]

Hope you liked it!

[@huntliba]

That "Your own" part is why I modified/upgraded my pre-order MK3 with Caribou parts... there is smt what makes you feel good, when you see working (damn well I would say) machine, which is built by your own hands....

[@Doodifur]

My voron 2.4 is the only printer I've ever owned where I don't watch the first layer after clicking go. That alone says enough to it being worth it That plus print times being 1/10th of my ender three.

[@LudwigRuderstaller]

The anwser is comes down basicly to this: Do you like building a printer, do you want to build it the way YOU want, do you want to tinker with it? - Build a voron Do you dont care about building, do you just want to print. Do you think the manufacturer made the best possible printer and so dont need tinkering or moding? - Buy a X1 (or any other Commercial available printer in this price class) @CNC Kitchen: as you already use klicky - add a nozzle brush and use Autocalibrate Z Macro. You will never ever need to tinker with z offset again. I bet your bed variation (its ok no question) could be improved with a different Sheet. I find ldo sheets to not be very consistent. try making a mesh on the magnetic surface itself you will see what i mean. Energetic smooth/textured sheets are quite good in my experience.

[@madhunugg]

Love the new studio!

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks! It's great!

[@luisvarca]

Well said x10. In the end it's built by you, for you. I've a small print farm with many commercial printers and none are quite as beautiful nor dear to me as my voron. In fact, I plan to build another. If you already own a 3D printer and want to expand the hobby I would argue there is nothing better than a Voron 2.4.

[@TioDave]

I've been thinking about building a VORON 2.4 R2. I enjoy being able to work on and upgrade my own printer. I'm currently running a TEVO tornado and would like to build something a bit faster. I built the MPCNC and enjoyed it.

[@JonS]

Jason from LDO is a legend (although he is a real person, I met him at Orange County Maker Faire!). He's so attentive to the 3D printing community.

[@ldomotorsjason3488]

Thanks Jon, cheers!

[@looxonline]

Used to love building and modding. Pandemic is over now and the pace of life is getting too crazy for that. Bambu just does the job and it does it fast and well.

[@Kelocyde]

Been using an Anet A8 for 5 years and love it. Still can't justify upgrading.

[@g.4279]

You need to anneal CF-Nylon to avoid creep Mr! Also try to stick to quality blends like Polymaker PA6-CF

[@CNCKitchen]

Yes, I already did tests with annealed CF-Nylon and that helps a ton. General CF test is currently in the planing.

[@g.4279]

@@CNCKitchen I'm really looking forward to the video! I hate annealing PLA because it likes to change dimensions and likes to be compacted in salt. The CF nylon blends I've found to not warp or change dimensions even in open ovens. But I'm curious how other brands might behave.

[@PH1LZ]

Wow, I was thinking a lot about building a Voron 2.4 lately and now theres a video from you regarding that very topic, awesome!

[@Twistedmetal-qe8kx]

It's the ease of repair and parts for a printer you build\modify yourself that makes the Voron more attractive to me.

[@francootaola9172]

The thing is that it would be great to have a tool changer or something more than only a good fff printer.... I love the spirit of the community and don't get me wrong it is a nice piece of engenieering. But well, today even cheap printers gets greats results.... That's why I cross my fingers for other tool heads in the prusa printer.... Specially for this range of price....

[@hansoncrack]

The Voron hype is real because people like to be a part of something. I agree with your points about Bamboo Labs being a tool that applies to that target audience. Complicating something and tinker endlessly provides personal enjoyment but also aligns oneself with a community. Though it may be easier to get a Voron now, and that will limit some of those that that seek prestige. I do think the community will continue to thrive much like the Ender 3 community. Once people are invested in something they are not very quick about shifting either. So it has its pros and cons the way people, people. Exclusivity pushing the boundaries, and holding onto things that could be improved. Thanks for the vid

[@hansoncrack]

@CNC Kitchen - I think you've been invaded by spam

[@superbrain3848]

im currently in the process of sourcing a Annex k3, im quite happy that there are frame kits, linear rail kits and stepper kits aviable from LDO, but the rest still has to be self sourced. some stuff where annoying to source first, but ive found quite a few new shops that make it a bit less annoying. biggest deal where probably being able to buy good quality screws in smaller quantities than 100.

[@morcillavegana]

I built a 2.4 and while I tink it's a great machine for petg, abs and technical filaments, if your main objective is printing PLA, the default toolhead is seriously underpowered. People kept telling me its the fan but that same fan on a different mellow wind printed perfect pla benchies at 100mm/s yet on the stealthburner I get some warping. Mantis is a good alternative but doesn't work as well on a dragon/v6 hotend. I built it for the DIY experience mainly, but I wish I spent the money on something linke bambu (wasn't out when I built it tho, april-may 2021), and just built a 0.1 for the DIY fun.

[@FunkyMind]

Hi Stefan, the best alternative to ABS for printing the parts is the 870 or 850 grade PLA (aka ingeo). This could even be a new entry for your resistance/torture tests. The Sakata brand makes some.

[@CodeZombie]

I have one, its a superb printer. The only critisim I have of my own one, is that after 1500 hours of print time, some of the wires in my wiring harness, that I'd bought from Linneo, started to internally fray. Also installing the Klicky probe was very sensible, as not only can the inductive probe drift, but I found that it's proximity to the hotend can kill it prematurely due to the heat. I'm currently upgrading from the Afterburner to the newer Stealthburner, and adding a Klicky probe will be part of that upgrade.

[@kuvikina]

Doc from Voron PIF will not like that the master of the hypers.

[@MarionMakarewicz]

If this review had come out six months ago, I would have gotten this build. Just couldn't wade through all the options available. I watched so many build videos and reviews, but it just didn't come together well enough. Now, perhaps, I might go ahead and buy one. I'm ready to get a better machine to do a wider variety of materials and bigger builds. thanks so much.

[@aSingluarFemboyHooter]

Putting the side panels on seriously quietens these down, and the speed on the skirt fans usually need slowing down, mine were wildly excessive at 100% Also, what made you choose the 2.4 over the Trident? The Trident seems to give similar results with a simpler and cheaper design. Having used one for a while, my main criticism is the placement of the electronics. I really wish they were accessable from the back, especially as you already need to route cables there for the fan. I've got an LED light system I want to install, but I've been putting it off due to the pain of having to put the whole machine on its side!

[@thenickdude]

There's a mod called "Roller Brackets" for the 2.4 that makes it way easier to tip the printer over for servicing

[@aSingluarFemboyHooter]

@@thenickdude Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try! I'm always a little bothered about the amount of weight I'm putting through the rear feet while tipping it back!

[@thenickdude]

@@aSingluarFemboyHooter yeah, before I added that mod I picked up the whole printer so I could flip it without stressing the Z motor mounts, but it's heavy as heck so that wasn't very fun

[@sasca854]

The primary reason why people do the 2.4 over the Trident is because almost everyone things the flying gantry is cooler than lead screws ;)

[@christophfriedrich5092]

I just finished building my Voron V2.4R2 kit from LDO in the 300mm configuration. With the panels on and the electronic fans set to 0.2 it is not load anymore. And regarding the Z-Offset problem: take a look at Voron Tap. It is a new way to measure the distance by mounting the toolhead onto a small linear rail and using an opto-switch as a trigger. I have done that modification and my first layers are great. Also no more docking and undocking the probe as now the nozzle is the probe. That way it also compensates for expanding metal due to the temperature.

[@chdn]

Voron should consider spec'ing an extra grub screw in the BOM as a spare just in case. Worst case scenario you don't need it and have a snack for when you're done. I hear they taste just like nerds candy...

[@CNCKitchen]

I'm not sure if it was missed by Bondtech or LDO, but yes, that was a pain!

[@cdsmakestuff]

just received my Bambu X1 a few weeks ago and it's an amazing machine... but, I've wanted to build a Voron 2.4 for well over a year before the X1 reveal... and now, I believe, I want to build a 2.4 even more. Why, well I now have a reliable machine (X1) and can tinker with and build a the 2.4 at my leisure.

[@Rushmere3D]

Question is through Stefan, would you still have built a Voron if you hadn't been given a kit and if so would you buy the LDO kit over formbot? (Haven't watched the video yet 😁, so sorry if you've answered that)

[@zheki]

I built a Formbot kit. Couldn't justify the bigger price on LDO. No hotend, and the additional lighting, nevermore kit and clicky are cheap to build. Formbot did came without the rpi, but I was able to source it. The seller offered discount because of that but i chose to upgrade to Dragon HF and one more thing that I can't remember. The kit has quality components, or at least they seem to be, we'll see in the long run. The only cable I had to crimp was the probe.

[@Rushmere3D]

@@zheki My V0.1 is a from a formbot kit and I've heard they've really improved since I purchased mine.

[@zheki]

@@Rushmere3D I bought mine around may, and got a good kit. All the rails where smooth, all the components seems of good quality. But I can't really compare apples to apples. I built my 0.1 from Blurolls kit. Best LEGO technics set I ever built. The only downside was that I had to crimp the wires myself. I printed the entire 2.4 250 on it. 11/10 wouldn't recommend xD And in retrospect I should've built 2.4 first, but it was walk in the park after 0.1

[@SittingDuc]

I feel this is an excellently researched and produced video that covers the state and philosophy of Voron well. The V2.4 has definitely improved in the past 18months, and the LDO parts kit does look nice. Your nevermore is probably not doing much without panels! I will second the call to print the parts from ABS, or use print-it-forward. Avoid PLA, PETG, and cheaper online sites offering a "printed parts set". The quality is not there and disappointment will follow. ABS. You can get quieter enclosure and exhaust fans (but not so much part and hotend fans), and panels drop the noise a lot. But many quieter fans do not last in fhe heat of an enclosed printer, or do not have enough airflow (/"static pressure") for reliable cooling. And noisy motors go faster 😀 [Full disclosure, I built V2.1538 from a kit in April 2021 😉]

[@smittery]

The fans and motors are quite a bit "quieter" when the side panels are on XD

[@CNCKitchen]

Good point 😉

[@master-gbig1140]

After watching your video Stephon I would buy both printers. The Bambulab X1, and LDO VORON Kit. First I would buy the Bambulab X1, to have a fast working printer, and then buy the VORON Just because I got to have it. Great video and I love the fast pace review.

[@_Livefreeordie_]

The Bambu Lab X1C is really tempting, but I don't like how it is closed source. That's the only thing turning me away from it and why I'd probably get a Voron over it.

[@redline6871]

Vorons maybe open source but very toxic closed minded community. They also have no stake and don’t do anything that involves a business. The closed source argument is stale at this point.

[@_Livefreeordie_]

@@redline6871 You misunderstand my reasoning. I couldn't care less about the community. I don't want a company with pretty much total control over my printer.

[@redline6871]

@@_Livefreeordie_ I guess but your only going to run whatever is supported by the voron project and nothing else how open source is it really?

[@_Livefreeordie_]

@@redline6871 At least I'd be able to make changes within Klipper and customize it. If you don't like how something is in the firmware on the Bambu Lab, you're stuck with it. They can literally put something within the code that recognizes certain files and prevents you from printing them. Just as dji prevents you from flying their drones in certain locations.

[@oscaranderson1822]

I think the boron is exceptionally well engineered. In a special thanks to all that are involved with open source for this project.. thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world. I have a prusa Max. Thanks for your input and your time putting this video together we appreciate you out here

[@AccountSpace]

my bud made one and i wish i did instead of my ender 5 plus, its just a overall better for the price

[@rcmaniac25]

Good overview. I think these kinds of videos are not only important but going to be more common. There are many different printers and every person will have their own requirements. So the many comments for/against Voron vs. Bambu vs Prusa vs Creality vs... whatever, is to their own requirement, need, and preference. If it wasn't for videos like this, all we would have is "Prusa is perfect, there is no need for another printer" and "Bambu is perfect, there is no need for another printer" and a bunch of people who, due to algorithms or bias or something else, would just accept that and move on. So yay for what you've done.

[@ldomotorsjason3488]

Awesome video! I was difficult to spell raspberry too!

[@CNCKitchen]

Happy to hear that you've watched it till the end!

[@prongATO]

Make it a multi part video! After I spend a year or two with my mini I am considering a Voron project. You and Thomas, I trust your input.

[@JamesElise160]

I love my voron 2.4, it’s a very good printer, but…. It does require quite a lot of attention a lot of the time, and my workhorse will always be my prusa mk3 for that reason. It’s not as fast, it’s not very good at abs, but I can rely on it absolutely all the time, whereas I can’t quite do that with the voron.

[@ThomasS17]

Out of curiosity, why does the 2.4 take a lot of attention after you have tuned it well in the beginning, and why is it not that reliable? I've heard several times now that a Voron requires a lot more maintenance than the typical printer, why is that?

[@JamesElise160]

@@ThomasS17 Its a combination of things. 1. Some components arent of the same quality as on the prusa (particularly the spring steel pei, which is nowhere near as good as the prusa). 2. The printer is under a lot more stress, so things need a lot more adjusting. 3. There are far too many opportunities to upgrade things, which means more tweaking. Now, 2 and 3 are avoidable (2 by running it at slower speeds akin to the prusa), but 1 still isn't.

[@csadler]

It was between the Voron and RatRig 3.0 for me. I went RatRig due the easier part sourcing and I liked the electronics at the back. 300+ hrs printing and it's rock solid.

[@livedeliciously]

How is the RatRig community?

[@csadler]

@@livedeliciously It's pretty good, I don't interact a lot but every time I have an issue someone else has already solved.

[@briguy9915]

The hype is definitely real. I've built both the Voron V0.1 and Trident R1, lots of dedication to build and tune it. But I enjoy that sort of thing, and it's nice to have a one of a kind 3d printer.

[@Visualize01]

Very cool printer, but definitely seems like a lot of work especially when the industry trend seems to be moving towards smarter, less fussy printers with the Bambu Lab x1 and Prusa XL.

[@marcin.sobocinski]

I built a LDO Voron with all the mods you can have (clicky, LEDs, purge bucket, auto-z calibration, whatever) and I do think its a fantastic printer. Print quality in my opinion is better than on Bambulab (which I also have) but... but the software/config side of Voron is a nightmare!!! You never know if your settings are correct. There is no standard config by any means. Most of Voron owners think that their config is somehow their own intellectual property (which is, but still that is not the open source way of doing things). Especially when you have LDO kit (which is a kit! from a single provider) should have OPTIMISED, ready to use config. I was as impressed with the quality of the prints as I was tired and frustrated with optimising the config myself. I am so happy with the Bambulab now, you just press print and wait for the part to use it. I think that should be some Voron Software Design Team as well to provide community with optimised, tested and proofed configs. Then it would be a killer printer. For the moment hardware of the printer is much ahead of the software which is overly complicated to get it going.

[@steffenhahn6553]

Whats your imponion: Voron 2.4 vs. HevOrt?

[@CNCKitchen]

Unfortunately I don't have an opinion because I never used a HevOrt.

[@tonnyprasetya48]

I own 3 voron already If i may recommends you any mod + LDO Orbiter V2.0 + top spool holder, you will not have any feeding problems anymore + magnetic panel clip corner, you can make yours closed / open machine in a breeze + 4.3 Dsi Lcd screen for easier control If you wanna go crazy, use TMC5160 for AB motor for blazing speed

[@yannickvural3474]

I Love your Videos

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks.

[@ChriDDel]

I'm a bit jealous. I had a China Kit before LDO has a kit. It is still a great printer. Even with the less quality parts. I think the hype is real. Even with the not milled bed, with no name steppers it's such a great printer.

[@smittery]

On another note, I think in many senses it's almost an unfair comparison to look at the Voron2.X vs X1C. Voron2 has been around for a while and X1C is new. I built a trident and it has been a great machine, but had X1C been an option back then, I would have bought that instead and my wallet would have been quite a bit happier.

[@jannekallio5047]

Nice video.. and yes it can be a slightly challenging task.. Moved from Finland to Germany and building a small workshop for myself in Bochum... I'm feeling a bit lonely finishing up the Voron and a large laser cutter at the same time.. and both the first time.. so anyone else in the area is welcome to give and get some support 😆

[@Lucas_sGarage]

I never clicked so fast

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks!

[@Liz_ArdE]

I have 2 printers, my project and my printer haha. But seriously, as much as a working voron looks awesome it also looks like the work you have to put into it never stops. It's not just once it's working it going to keep working. This is different from a Prusa who despite still having 8 bit boards, using older designs, and being too expensive for the sum of its parts, is a workhorse through and through. You get told how to screw every screw, you eat your gummy bears, you download their slicer you have a tool. I also have a project printer which was actually my first before buying the Prusa and it's an ender clone. I definitely understand the desire to tinker but I also like how I don't have well over a thousand dollars into a project printer.