how to string your guitar, the PRS method

I found this method on the PRS website, and I thought it was worthy of sharing.

[@Yourguitarworkshop]

So great to see this! I've been doing this same thing for 25 years, never knew it was the "PRS method". It works super well and many don't know about it. Thanks for sharing Jack!

[@SrDeMaFp]

A copy of this video should come with every beginner guitar./guitar kit I've been using these "techniques" for years and while they may seem pointless or even silly, the fact is that THEY WORK. THANKS FOR THE UPLOAD!

[@Grzz51]

Interesting.....I've been playing since I was 16......that was 52 years ago.....a fellow player showed this method to me back about 1970.....worked then...still works now!

[@Bomber848480015]

This is the way I learned in the 70's as well

[@badhombre4246]

ive been playing since i was 7.....that was 9 years ago.....

[@HectorBadillaOfficial]

Bad Hombre 😂

[@redwhiteblue9866]

Same

[@smartypantznumber2840]

When you dive bomb a whammy it's the same effect as cutting strings under tension it does no damage.

[@Justin.Franks]

I also discovered this method on the PRS website. After I bought my PRS SE245, I wanted to see how PRS recommended setting the intonation for the wraparound stoptail (which has no adjustable saddles). It does seem to keep in tune slightly better than the traditional method, so it's what I use now. Of course, my most recent purchase, a 7-string Schecter Hellraiser, is my first guitar with locking tuners and now I'm spoiled. There's no need to have the string wrap around the post, just pull it tight, lock it down, and tune. It's almost as stable as a double-locking tremolo, without the setup headaches inherent to those systems. I'm definitely going to buy locking tuners for my other guitars, it's so much more convenient.

[@airdale18]

Thanks, Jack for this vid of the PRS locking string method. I've tried it before and I know that it works, even better than cheap generic locking tuners. Can't beat the cost either. My problem with the method is that I am getting old and my short term memory is fading. I saved your vid because it was clear, concise and right on point. I believe that it will be easier to remember the technique and a good reference to refresh an aging mind. Good job, thanks for producing it.

[@waltermusik6200]

I have played the guitar for 48 years and run into videos like this while searching the web for "lock tuners". It is so funny I did not know the method. Might save me money (and sleepless nights fearing they screw up my guitar while changing tuners). Thanks for sharing, will try very soon. Oh, and I bet PRS does not claim to be the father of the method.

[@davidchristian01]

I learned to do this 40 years or so ago. What I like most about the method is that is very fast and stays in tune. The only drawback is that it's sometimes harder to put a string back on if you take one off and you haven't left enough length after cutting them. I don't break as many strings as I did when I was 20.

[@DWinegarden2]

That is called the Blue Grass method of locking strings. It comes from the Blue Mountain region they say. Also, waxed dental floss (tape) run through the nut slots works way better than anything else!

[@mattgilbert7347]

I've been doing this for years! Didn't know it was the PRS method. I find it takes a little longer to "play them in" using this method. The graphite trick is new to me, thanks!

[@dcamnc1]

This method is actually much older than PRS. Gibson guitars used to include instruction cards on how to do this in the 70's. I'm sure the method is older than any of us watching. Nice vid!

[@mandolinic]

I saw this technique in a book about mandolins about 30 years ago. It's how I've always restrung my mando.

[@LawrenceDeVere2000]

Iv started restringing this way and its worked an absolute treat I was going though a set of strings every 3 weeks snapping at the tuning peg from lots of playing college rehearsals outside band rehearsals and at home and now they last twice as long.

[@wmfife1]

Thanks for giving credit to the PRS site. Some call it "my method" but you cite. Good on you for that, whoever thought of it first. One thing I see everyone doing that I don't like to do - and maybe this carries over from my days as a Navy aircraft mech - but once the strings are wound around the machine posts and under tension the ends are cut short using wire cutters. I do that too but leave just enough to loop the end once around tightly in a "pigtail" so the sharp tip isn't exposed. Hardened metal music wire cut that short can stab like a needle if encountered accidentally and mopping up blood during a gig isn't what they came to see. May not be likely but what I do prevents accidents altogether and isn't that much trouble yet gives an extra layer of comfort especially going in and out of the case/ bag, putting it on, etc. A set of needle-nose pliers while not essential make doing this really easy. Just a passing comment and thanks for the demo. Good valuable info.

[@coasmechteranic]

Thanks. ...and nice tip. Cut long, and bend the sharp edge over.

[@leeburnley]

i think its funny that so many believe that cutting all the strings at once will cause problems...in all my years playing ive never had a problem with warped neck or intonation issues (unless you change stringe gauges) by doing so. In order to properly clean a condition a fret board you have to remove ALL the strings. i also keep my unused guitars in their cases detuned..zero tension..with zero issues. Brother makes a good video that helps someone who doesnt know, give him some props...good vid brother

[@dennisloobman8013]

My mate bought a new Gibson SG in 1968, it came with a 'maintenance' booklet and this was in the booklet. I've been using it ever since.

[@kevinstephens9019]

Everyone is getting so upset. Cutting strings under tension does not damage the guitar. Removing all the strings at once does not damage the guitar either.

[@TheeRocker]

Maybe they had a string break playing live, and it broke their guitar ? lol,,,

[@jimgrill]

Agree. I’ve been doing exactly that to change my strings since the 1980s and never once had a problem.

[@jmm09015]

No but it can shift your truss rod....

[@TheeRocker]

Maybe if all at once,, but not one at a time,,, Highly unlikely or very rare at best.

[@claire030201]

My nuts and truss rod have always worked well together.

[@aidanlarose6901]

I think you're supposed to put the pencil under the strings where they sit in the nut BEFORE you put the strings on it

[@mickm8028]

On six a side headstock you can use the next tuner post as a guide for how much slack you need . So for the low e use the a string tuning post as the length you need, when you get to the high e hold the string at where the hight e post is then move it backward still keeping hold till where u are holding is level with the b string post, then with other hand grab where the string is level with the high e post again .And putting graphite dust in the slots before you string up is a better idea.

[@alext9067]

Do you think it wold be better to put the pencil graphite on the nut first. I don't think putting it on top will help that much.

[@TheGhostGuitars]

LOL, my thinking exactly. For lube to work, it needs to be between the two contact points.

[@DougHinVA]

right.... and pencil lead is not the ideal lube... black and dirty and powdery. Get cheap nut slot lube and be done with it after all nuts are sized and smoothed correctly (maybe by a pro).

[@carltaylor4942]

Absolutely!

[@christopherslaughter2263]

If its a graphite nut it doesn't really matter

[@armanzakwan1898]

Pencil lead or pencil graphite

[@dirtyrottensinnermusic3212]

Thanks man! I've been playing for 50 years and never knew this. Your experience may vary..

[@shuggy1110]

Hi Jack, I see what you are doing. I am glad you included the lining up of the screw-holes... I like to take it a step further and tighten any loose hex nuts and screws as well... then I look for any stiff tuners which could benefit from lubrication. Then I lubricate the nut (insert jokes here). I do a similar winding method where there is no overlap- instead the string points down instead of up. Then I put as many winding's as I can (with in reason) each one crossing over the long string part pointed down towards the head-stock. I make sure there are many winding on the post, without binding. This increases the nut pressure which enables the guitar to achieve 3-4 X's the sustain you would get by doing this PRS method. So in summary if you had one locking wrap vs many overlapping wraps, which one do you think would provide the most benefit? A stop watch will help in timing for comparison. If you strum an electric with no amp you'll see for your self. 2-3 winding's using the locking PRS method would give me fits, cause when I'd re-string I couldn't get any guitar to hold it's tuning. I learned this lesson the hard way and so did a buddy of mine who is way more knowledgeable. If you decide to comment about my experience-fine, please be polite and use a timing device before giving my rebuttal a reply. Thanks Jack, Happy New Year and keep it "Bluesy."

[@torchlord11]

Try to understand. So you point the string down towards the head-stock parallel with the tuner, then wrap each wrap of the string over top of this part of the string that would otherwise get cut off? Do you snip off the excess, just as it comes out of the last string wrap?

[@sm6jesse]

That sounds sound. (The logic I mean.) I'm going to try that next time. Is this for electrics or for acoustics as well? thanks,

[@jimsreynolds]

I do this on my acoustics and have been for years. It is debatable whether it is of similar value to do so though because electric strings tend to get more stretching/bending action than acoustics, in the main, but it only takes an extra couple of seconds per string to lock them off as per above so why not.

[@checocr]

You are basically creating a string lock on a set if non-locking tuners. This is a very good method but has been around for many, many years. Nice vid. Cheers!

[@Bassplayer8705]

Good strategy for winding, but I always wind so the string goes below on one full turn then above the next full turn of the cut/pass through so that it squeezes it in place on both top and bottom of the string

[@gunslinger8130]

That was the way I was taught to string my guitar and bass many moons ago by my Grandfather (R.I.P.) It provides extra strength and support for the string where it is wound at the machine head, less chance of string breakage.

[@MrMongo321]

Thanks for zooming in Jack - it made a big difference!

[@philipboug]

I am 74, been playing over 60 years. I ALWAYS remove all strings when doing a change so I can clean the fretboard and headstock properly. ALWAYS have cut the strings while under tension, NEVER had a neck problem on either electric or acoustic, bolt-on or set necks. STOP SPREADING INCORRECT INFORMATION!! Cutting the strings is no different to divebombing the Whammy bar. It removes all tension from the neck quickly. Just because YOU think something is a bad idea does not make it so!!

[@Todeswalzer1305]

Exactly

[@jmmjjmmjjmmj]

Holy fuck you're 74

[@chrisw5742]

And do "dive bomb" whammies??? Awesome :-)

[@carlosmatos9848]

Some guitar players are just a little nutty. I've had a few tell me that hanging a guitar on the wall is bad, because it will ruin the neck. I always say, "You realize there's 100 lbs. of string tension pulling the opposite way right?" Derp.

[@NealJett]

@sapple joviAwwwww, someone's still young and ignorant.

[@jimtalltheislandbrothers6639]

Been doing it for years as well. Never knew that is it is the PRS recommended way. Maybe that is one of the reasons their guitars stay well in tune.

[@OhMarcOh]

This video saved my life Thanks man, i swear This is bloody legit, saved a buncha my tears

[@allancrow134]

I've been doing that since before 1980. It works great. It locks the string on the peg a lot better. You still need good clean wraps. 2 1/2 to 5 depending on the string diameter.

[@pay9011]

Could you please clarify which strings need more or less wraps? More for thinner strings? Thanks.

[@tracyc7813]

That is the way Ibanez has described how to do it in their owners manuals for decades. I've done it that way for decades myself. It works really well.

[@TheGreatD_Mize]

I know several ways of attaching a string to a machine post, and most of them work pretty well.

[@guitarhowtos2148]

Hi Jack. Thanks for the video. This method indeed locks the string onto itself. They are a bit difficult to later remove however. As well, your neck may thank you if each string is unwind individually rather than clipping each string.

[@Logan45499]

This is exactly how I've strung the guitar for a long time.

[@ianaintsaying1625]

This is exactly how I was taught to wind my strings back in the late 60's

[@fenderbender909]

From a tuning stability perspective my understanding is you only need a couple of winds on each string, plain or wound. The theory is that the less winds the less possibility of slack in the string and therefore better tuning stability. On Fender type head stocks some like to add extra winds on the bottom of the post to increase the break angle/tension across the nut, particularly on the G and D strings if there is only one string tree. Dan Erlewine says you only need enough tension on the nut to keep the string from popping out of the slot. If it ain't popping out, no need to worry about break angle (again, my understanding, I'm no expert).

[@dynadude56]

I've been using that "PRS" method since around 1970 on all types of guitars with less than a full wrap of slack on the post. It's like having locking tuners, so you don't want a lot of slack. If you use any down tunings, you may need to leave a bit more slack. Maybe as much as a full wrap.

[@joepasco1420]

Back in the early 70s I changed strings for the first time and had to deal with that type of unnecessary knot. I've been cutting all SIX off under tension on the same Ibanez artist since 1980, it still plays perfect, pop pop pop pop pop pop.

[@wsmith1213]

I was taught to use a graphite pencil and to do it actually on the nut of the guitar while the string is out of the saddle not on top of the string but from now on I'll go over the top of it as well

[@keyshawest8704]

lol when I add new strings on my Ltd I go all berserk and I love the hard work that I myself put into it!!! \m/

[@aikidoisthebombyeah]

I been playing for 35 years, this was the first thing I learned.

[@fabriziodutto7508]

Hi Jack! I'd really like to know if it worked for you, I mean if this new "wrapping" method has been effective, as far as tuning stability (using them too) goes. Thanks for sharing!

[@ThermaL-ty7bw]

i always clip mine on the bridge side of the string strings get rusted/gunked , the more string you pull through the back , the more rust/gunk settles in there... little pieces are quicker to pull out and almost none of that crap can stay behind and get on the fresh strings you pull all the way through the back and so through the gunk

[@lalythil]

This is actually a good method to lock the strings without a locking tuner. The principle is the exact same as the locking tuners. Also, you don't need that much slack to begin with. like 1 full wraparound is actually enough is what I've found and I'm guessing (haven't tried it yet) that half or three quarters around might hold the string tight as well, since you're locking the string down with the pressure of the tuned part of the string. Also after playing and bending a bit you'll have to retune anyway and you'll wrap around a little bit more anyway. :)

[@JonOrtuondo]

Before cutting the strings like that, you may release some tension on every string. You can see the neck "jumping" backwards.....

[@jamesbutterson426]

if you don't have color ball ends it's thickest to thinnest ;-)

[@Nemesisrooster]

James Butterson Mate, Well played. That made my day! : )

[@craigpoole1868]

Do the unwound strings with the locking method you show. Do the wound strings with one wrap above the string and the remainder below. The post has a waist and clamps onto the wound string.

[@TIMExBANDIT]

im impressed with how well it works

[@JJ3136]

John Caruthers was the first one to do something similar and it works like a locking string

[@glennsmith6357]

This is not a "PRS" method, but instead has been around for more than 40 years. But still - it's nice to see that someone else will learn how to correctly put strings on. FYI - you'll never need locking tuners in you put the strings on this way (the right way).

[@David13Rome]

I would disagree that you don't need locking tuners. This method is better than the traditional stringing method but does not eliminate the need for locking tuners especially on guitars with tremolos. I've had Floyd Roses and they definitely need locked even with this stringing method. On PRS guitars the locking tuners are far superior to this method. Also, it's important that the locking tuners have zero wraps. so in that instance this method would not be used.

[@Nazman06]

Locking tuners do not help keep your guitar in tune. They just help you restring faster

[@David13Rome]

That's highly debatable. For a fixed bridge you can make that argument and many will take the opposing view. But for a tremolo there's no doubt it helps keep the guitar in tune. However, it is just one of several areas that contribute to the stability necessary to stay in tune.

[@jacobhammond6783]

locking tuners dont keep strings in tune that much better than good normal tuners i have several guitars some with one with locking two with normal and one with a floyd and minus the locking part of the floyd the ther guitars all stay in tune the same despite being locking and non

[@jacobhammond6783]

in fact my ibanez fanned 7 string stays in tune better than my ltd ec 1000 that does have locking tuners

[@brianknickerbocker8518]

Seems to work really well, although I was shown to have much less slack.I give about a half inch.

[@wdumas226]

This is my default method for my PRS and all guitars, but I think that running the string around the peg 3 times kind of defeats the purpose because it invites slippage. I don't even run it around the post one whole turn and I can abuse the tremolo without it going out of tune. But I like the pencil graphite idea, I'll have to try it!

[@bentmller675]

I"ve done this method for years,cause its the best.

[@stratman103]

I've always used a similar way. Skip to 4:30 to when he actually starts doing it.

[@keiranbradley3238]

Isn't this just known as a "Luthiers knot"?.

[@gabor222]

Usually I just route the string which comes through the hole of the machine head down near the post and wire the first 1 or 2 rounds over it so the string will be locked between.

[@AnnihilatingAngel]

The way I've always done it is to make a loop about a half-inch in diameter, put the string through the post, bend it, then pull up on the string with y right hand while tightening: doesn't stay in tune the way I'd like

[@PeteWizzle]

This looks like a good idea. I'm just wondering why roughly 1 in 6 people have given it the thumbs down...

[@DeadShred9]

I tried it just about an hour ago , I guess I will find out . It was kind of a hassle don't see how it locks the string but if it works it works . I will do it on my other guitars .

[@matthewhart5824]

This will not only help to keep the string in tune but also keep the string from flopping over the post of the tuner when getting the string to wrap around the post.

[@Kennykoo65]

Been doing it that way since 1981...works well.

[@tommilitello198]

The way you tune your guitar is a personal preference,nothing more.as long as they don’t slip there isn’t a right or wrong way

[@bunakkaptan]

I'm 76 years old and I am doing the same wrapping since I was 15 years old. Most important thing is ... You have to give Full 2 wrappings for the no:6 Thick E String

[@TKD187]

I always take my string put it through the hole wrap it around the neck back through the hole again then wind it up pretty much same thing on my high E I will get a couple raps and b,g,d but my E,A I might get one wrap around on the E sometimes it's like a half because for one I do it by hand so I just don't feel like cranking it that many times and two I feel like it puts too much tension on my tuning knob , but that might just be an excuse that I make because I don't feel like turning it by hand a hundred times lol you think after 15 years I would have a tuning drill

[@gabetrujillo2795]

Honestly half the comments are either like, “I’ve been doing it this way for over 8 thousand years.” Or they’re just gassing this guy for not having a string winder. May the Internet prosper.

[@pennypacker7209]

I used to do it this way but now use "Mark the Guitar Guy's" method. Just pull the string tight and wrap around the post then insert the end of string in post hole. Less stress on the strings plus the angle from nut to post keeps string in place. The downside is it's kind of fiddly and takes some practice. :)

[@Airtrooper719]

I used to do a similar thing, I would wrap E to D 3 times, insert into post and tune, G to e 5-6 times and insert, tune. It stayed 100% in tune, but the treble strings had a tendency to snap quicker when retuning. Seems to be a trade off, better tuning for less durability, or average tuning stability for longer lasting strings (i.e the typical one wrap and tune, or pull tight to tuner peg, slack off to 1st fret and tune).

[@therealscarred2112]

I've actually read about several different methods of restricting a Guitar (I'm a Bassist, and don't have to deal with silly things like that once our new strings have been on a day or so and released their tension 😊) and have always heard that for a Trem-based Guitar, the more winds on the Tuner Post, the worst tuning will be over time. The reasoning is that every time you dive you slacken *all* of the wraps around the post and the more wraps you slacken the looser *each* wrap becomes, and when you have 4 or more wraps the combined amount of extra string loosens to the point where the string goes flat upon returning to Tuning. Not a HUGE amount, but enough to have to retuned all your string back to your Standard Tuning. ...this is the reason all of the Locking Tuners (of which are the first modifications I make on my "Songwriting & Extra Tools in My "Musicians Toolkit") on the market automatically locks after only a wrap or two: because once the string is locked down and extra wraps and the extra mass they contribute can add no positives and only possibly cause negatives, such as all those wraps slacken, are tuned up, and reslacken (...rinse & repeat) is that they all rub against each other, creating wear & weak points that breakage is more likely to occur, whereas the maximum of two wraps on a Locking Tune doesn't have the mass to do so and eliminates the possability of breakage at the Tuning Post.

[@Airtrooper719]

Ian Perge Interesting, I never actually thought of it like that, maybe the same would apply even for a non-trem guitar when bending etc?

[@generalbarry]

Put the graphite in the groove of the nut BEFORE the string is installed. Get the lubricant BETWEEN the nut and the string.

[@raychadderton2537]

correct my son, otherwise it negates the whole ethos,(look it up)

[@odmsteel]

The easiest way to do it is pull from the nut to the bottom of the first fret and that's enough slack for each string. This method is used by professional guitar techs. Stringing your guitar this way greater approves tuning issues and stability.

[@OhhLoz]

odmsteel What exactly do you mean?

[@spiderfan1974]

Loz measure the string from the tuning peg your restringing, low E a little over two tuning pegs (if it's a tall tuning peg, if not one tuning peg for short tuners). Bend the string sharply pull on the string don't pull it through the eye hole push down on the string at the tuning peg and start winding. Three tuning pegs for the A (two for short pegs), four or five tuning pegs for the D and G, and five plus for the b and e. This creates a solid anchor for the strings lots of windings means less tuning problems.

[@OhhLoz]

Ah thanks, I had done a pretty shoddy job but only the G string needed redoing, 2 tuning pegs worked perfectly, it had 3 perfect coils underneath so when I next need to replace my strings 2 is probably the standard I would use.

[@spiderfan1974]

Loz The b and e are always a bitch for me to change. Keep at it I promise it will get easier.

[@coreyhansen3520]

this is the way that I learned how to restring my guitars when I was learning how to play

[@hahe3598]

Hi Jack, thank you for sharing. After a few years of experiment, is this method better than the ordinary one or just the same? I am going to change strings for my guitar. Just check out if you have some update.

[@samfiadrangus9188]

Aren't most PRS owners doctors and lawyers who bring their guitars back to the shop for restringing?

[@stevelandress]

No

[@44scoots]

Steve Landress haha I think they are.

[@Charlieboy2680]

I don't think so.

[@j.d.schultzsr.9215]

Samfia Drangus, No, not all PRS owners are doctors or lawyers. ALL of them ARE, however, effite, cork-sniffing snobs who spend W A Y too much money (which could be much better spent feeding homeless cats) on some fancy-schmancy guitar; totally incapable of making fine music with a beat-up old gut bucket that was rescued from a trash heap.

[@electropentatonic]

@@j.d.schultzsr.9215 That's pretty rude

[@FretFriendGWaL]

This is the Martin method (as far as I know) and has been used for many years...

[@1275jasonmartin]

been stringing my guitars like that for like ten years. all my guitars stay in tune.

[@DougHinVA]

locking the strings is not needed. just use the 'Z' bend method and it works fine. The string tightens on the shaft of the tuner and that friction helps make the string secure.... no need to lock the string on itself

[@maxbauer1633]

interesting. figured it out by myself a long time ago before i even heard of PRS. should be taught to every beginner, plus pencil lead in the nutslot.

[@ALSomthin]

There is another little problem when guitars go out of tune that is caused by the string sticking in the nut that you have shown here in this video tthat can be cured by pencil graphite . There is actually a product called nut grease you can get from stewmack that works really good.

[@danieljewell5803]

Damn, didn't realize this wasn't the 'normal' way to string a guitar... I've always done it like that...

[@grappleduck57]

Hint...stringwinder

[@SodomySnake]

Pro tip! Bend the cut ends of your strings over with needle-nosed pliers so they don't tear up the inside of your gig bag or stab your fingertips.

[@markpro4813]

If you are taking all the strings off your guitar you better make sure that you adjust the truss rod, level, crown and polish the frets while you have the strings off. I like Jack have a shit ton of guitars (30 plus on the walls and a closet full). Most were never setup properly. so now when I put a new set of strings on a guitar I personal never set up I take the time to do a proper setup and man what a difference it makes. I find new pleasure once again with each guitar I setup correctly. Do read and watch tutorials and practice on a POS first. If you can get the POS to play nice you can do wonders with the good stuff.

[@Treachery93]

I loosen the strings before cutting removing all of them at once and re-string from the low E on up. I've had no issues in my 35 years of playing.

[@-WolfMan-]

Treat your guitar to a Good set of Locking Tuners. Just 1 wrap instead of 3... minimizes the common issues of slipping and string stretching. Locking Tuners also allow you to Trim your strings much closer to the Peg. It just looks a lot nicer compared to the old "pinched string" method.

[@paulwittek2660]

Not a bender or a tremolo user, but I smack the shit outta my guitars when I play, and since I started using this method years ago, my tuning stability has greatly improved. And I didn't have to buy a $100 set of locking tuners to do it.

[@struong57]

Jack, you need to invest in a string winder. 😀 On a more serious note, what do you recommend to dry lubricate a guitar with an ivory nut? I don't want to use graphite, because it's gonna make my nut look like a mess.

[@Markle2k]

People are going to hear your out of tune guitar long before they see the grey pencil lead. :) A better way to do it than shown here is to take a newly sharpened pencil or a 0.5 mm mechanical pencil and, before tuning all the way up to pitch, pull the string out of the slot and rub the pencil lengthwise in the slot. This way you get the graphite where it is needed instead of hoping it migrates down under the string. Then replace the string in the slot, tune up, and stretch. Personally, I use a puff of powdered graphite rather than hunt for a pencil and sharpener. It wipes clean off my Strat's nut, you only see the graphite "stain" in the slot when changing strings. Seriously, 90% of the graphite blows away with a breath and the rest cleans up with a dry Q-tip cotton swab.

[@struong57]

Markle2k Thanks for the tip. I will definitely try that next time I change my guitar strings. Rock on, brother! 🤘🏽

[@thecrypt5747]

Good video :) I might try this as I have a tendency to break the G B and e strings when I restring. Any other ways of avoiding this?

[@thecrypt5747]

Trevor Capper Ok, so make sure to keep each winding under the last?

[@lalythil]

Also, try to make note of where the strings break. If they break on the bridge, it might be worth it to have a look at the bridge and see if it's maybe too sharp and you could try the roller bridges and/or nuts.

[@thecrypt5747]

lalythil It was on the nut end. Just didn't get the winding right. Getting the hang of it now. It'll break at the nut if it's binding (getting stuck) as well

[@surfnomad5405]

Yup that''s the way to do it man... that loop under means the detune factor is minimised

[@brianosbment2343]

I play PRS! How many wraps around the post? I have about 3 on big strings,a little more on smaller strings. I always have a hard time trying to get the right length.

[@GravityBoy72]

Yes, i've done it that way for years.

[@seerattan]

Most prs have locking tuners.

[@joesatch899]

I feed the e,b and g strings through the machine shaft hole twice. This seems to keep them in tune without having to wind up all that slack.. It makes removal it bit tricky but keeps strings 1 to 3 accurate.. Any one else ever try this?

[@kderby2204]

I am 63, time flys, and that's the way I always string my guitars. The old way slips.

[@mayurpratimsaikia5171]

hi sir. this video is a has a good lesson but i need a help please help me sir. i have purchase a new electric guitar it is ibanez grg 170 dx model number i have changed the strings but i have coiled all the strings i have more than 4 to 5 rounds on one string and i have a bridge problem after changing the strings i have a buzzing sound after playing a chord . i have changed the height of the guitar strings through bridge l. now i am not getting the comfort what i have got before in playing. i don't no to bring to the original place.please help.I

[@geoffreyalder7275]

I thought PRS used locking tuners ??....they suggest half a wrap around the post before locking it down

[@drwombat]

does it matter which way you start to turn the tuning peg when tightening up your strings? seems like you could turn either way and make tension.

[@coasmechteranic]

drwombat yes. Turn the "wrong" way and it creates bad geometry between the nut and tuning peg. Try it once, you'll see what I mean.

[@drwombat]

Jack Bias I'm due for a change that's why I sought your video and I like the method in principle I suppose twisting the string ensures that it winds downward towards the headstock as I seen suggested elsewhere but what may I ask is the 'wrong' way? anti clockwise?

[@coasmechteranic]

drwombat the "right" way, the string will be a straight line (as viewed from the front of the instrument) from the nut to the tuning peg. Back angle, (towards the head stock) is ok.

[@VenancioPortalatin]

Been stringing my guitar like this for over 20 years. Hardly the PRS method. It’s been around forever

[@richardwitherow5289]

Hi Jack! Hey, I was wondering if you'd be able to advise me on something. I bought a brand new PRS McCarty Singlecut five weeks ago. For the first three weeks the tuning was very stable, but in the last two weeks it's been a nightmare. Especially the D-string, which goes flat almost as soon as I've tuned it. I haven't changed the strings or adjusted anything. I'd just take it to a tech, but the ones in this hick Australian town are hopeless - anytime I've had work done by them my guitar is no better, or worse. It's unbelievable! I only bought the PRS because of the purported tuning stability, nothing else. Is it likely the strings, the nut or the tuners?

[@coasmechteranic]

In my experience, strings typically won't stay in tune if they are really new, or really old. If it's not the strings, maybe the tuner is loose in the headstock. I'm no Luthier, these are things I've experienced. Hope this helps.

[@richardwitherow5289]

@@coasmechteranic Thanks very much for getting back to me! I'll look into this.

[@baldbearded9601]

Haha.. No wonder you find changing strings a PITA. Get yourself a drill bit string winder, or at least a manual string winder hehe. Flipping those by hand drives me nuts too ! ;)

[@johnryrie8347]

That’s how I have been doing it for the last 56 years I thought everyone did.

[@Fari-100]

It's called a "luthier's knot" been used for maybe centuries

[@czt1dave]

I think the graphite from the pencil should go in the nut slot before the string.

[@jaytwo96]

thanks for the pro tip dawg~