Code Enforcement Costs Owner $3000 For Styrofoam Under Concrete Floor

[@ARoyalLyon]

The current cost of insulation panels may make a painful outlay, but it will get recouped VERY quickly in today's energy costs! After passing the break-even point, it's a gift that keeps on giving year after year over the entire life of the structure. Imagine enjoying comfortable interior temperatures year round without having to fret over heating and cooling costs.

[@slowfinger2]

I'll bet the break-even is within 3 years. After all, 30% of heat loss is down, through the floor. Here's another situation. My small home (Canada snow belt) is electric baseboard heated. Adding an airtight inset to my open fireplace, and burning only from Friday eve until Monday morning weekly, some evenings, through the Christmas holidays, and a few extra days, cut my electrical bill in half. The $3,000 stove and install, paid for itself by halfway through year three. Spread out over the year, that's saving $100/month over (30 months=2.5yrs), or $1,200/year. And, never having to spend it again. This is really only viable if your winter wood costs less than the saving. I harvest my own free firewood.

[@DanielJohnson-ec8rk]

There is so little heat loss through a slab floor, it’s not what you think at all. I’m a mason of 37 years

[@HobbyOrganist]

With styrofoam keeping the concrete off the cold damp ground, it helps keep the slab warmer and DRY I have styrofoam and plastic sheeting under my basement concrete I poured section by section myself in the 1930 Iowa farmhouse, and I can go down and walk around in the winter in my socks and the concrete is not cold or damp. Its a one-time cost and on a $300,000 or whatever this new house cost to build- another $3k is pocket change. @@DanielJohnson-ec8rk

[@HobbyOrganist]

I put R-100 insulation in my attic, I also added another inner wall to all my exterior walls which were plaster and lath and in poor condition, I added studs inside, 2" of Celotex, a plastic sheet, 1/2" CDX topped by sheetrock so I could hang heavy things on the walls anywhere and not have to locate studs too. So the 4" walls had blown in insulation, added 2" celotex at R-7.2/" and the walls are around R21 or so. I replaced all the single pane windows. I was getting sheets of ICE on the inside of my kitchen windows in winter, where my computer and desk are, it ALWAYS felt cold and drafty, turned out the draft was convection currents caused by the cold window glass. I had to have a 1500 watt space heater behind my chair all the time. I replaced the 3 windows with MI windows, double glass, argon, low E vinyl, immediately no more ice, and the space heater went in the trash, I saw an immediate reduction in my electric bill of about $50/mo The windows were around $179 each, I installed them myself, they paid for themselves in 2 years. Same story in the bedroom where I always had another space heater on low all night, replaced those 2 windows and that heater went in the trash too, that saved about $35/mo Since then I replaced the rest of the windows but its unknown the savings as doing so didnt eliminate any more space heaters-only had the 2. Buy last winter I replaced my 35 year old 80% efficient, 110k BTU Lennox Conservator G11-e furnace with a new Goodman 80k BTU 96% furnace and installed it myself, new better ducts and more central location along with a humidifier. I saw a reduction in the gas use last winter, this winter will tell me more. That 80% furnace took all its combustion air from the basement which pulled in cold air from every little crack, and when it was off, cold air would often spill down it's 5" flue. The Goodman takes all its air from outside with a 2" PVC, I also installed a damper to allow a small amount of fresh intake air from outside to mix in the return duct. @@slowfinger2

[@user-uj4ob5tg9v]

I just poured my own 30x40 slab without any experience other than watching your videos. Thanks Mike you're awesome!

[@peters6850]

How did it turn out? I'm thinking of doing my driveway but have only watched mikes videos too

[@phillhuddleston9445]

Depends on the climate, very cold climates yes, hot ones no!

[@mcmaddie]

I'm not sure where you are exactly, but here in Finland even without code I'd doubt anyone would pour slab for house without insulation under it. Even for garages it's usually put especially if the garage is heated.

[@geneticdisorder1900]

There’s no need to put styrofoam under a heated slab, it should be put around the outside of the foundation. I have a 1000’ feet of heat pex in my garage floor and the foam is on the outside perimeter. The heat only goes down 10”, and it’s why a mixing valve on a tankless coil is piped 10” below the outlet. The heat won’t convect farther down.

[@woozy607]

@@geneticdisorder1900ur wasting heat, the Styrofoam would save you money in the long run

[@ianbelletti6241]

​​@@geneticdisorder1900the proper term is conduction. Solids conduct heat. Fluids convect heat. And technically it's that it won't effectively conduct the heat beyond 10" but the heat does conduct much further than that.

[@geneticdisorder1900]

@@ianbelletti6241 Last time I checked, there was fluid flowing fabulously through my tubes convecting heat into the pex tubes, which conducts heat into the cement, which conducts heat into the dirty dirt. And all that mass of dirty dirt, cement impregnated with small crussy crushed rock than convects heat up into the air, which in turn warms my garage. Except where the 4 roundy rubbers sit on the cement and the heat is transferred into those 4 roundy rubbers and anything else that is sitting, stored or thrown onto the concrete floor. So in short, we were both half right.

[@Mars-zgblbl]

Without beneficial heat loss from the building to the soil below the slab, frost heaving soils will move an insulated slab. It will heave up at the edges. Prevent freezing, remove free water or replace the frost susceptible material and it can’t heave.

[@steven7650]

The foam is absolutely necessary. Your floor is your second major heat loss source next to the roof.

[@marcwert2180]

Could you explain how the ground conducts heat and when does it reach equilibrium.

[@steven7650]

@@marcwert2180 You're not getting a course in thermodynamics over the internet. Go to engineering school or consult an engineer in person.

[@sarahann530]

​@@marcwert2180 Take a course in college on thermodynamics. Don't rely on anonymous stuff posted on the internet.

[@jamesphillips2285]

@@marcwert2180 The ground stays at a mostly constant temperature year round. That is sort of how ground-source heat pumps work. (State-change reactions like freezing also sink a lot of energy.) If you dump enough heat into the ground it may eventually reach equilibrium. But water can carry your heat away as it makes it way down to the ground water level as well.

[@Sailor376also]

@@marcwert2180 I can try to give you a brief explanation. Steven is quite correct,, it is a long and involved study. First, the only equilibrium will be the temperature of the soil,, or the temperature of the outside air. There will be no blend or very little,, those two are just heat sinks. They will suck you right down to those levels. Some of the high points. Concrete is a heat sponge. To raise the temperature of one cubic foot of concrete 1 degree F,, takes (inaccurate but the correct idea) 100 times more energy than raising the temp 1 F for a cubic foot of air. Tremendous variables even within that because how much water is contained within the air,, or concrete, or soils. The next concept is the temperature of the soils. You almost cannot change the temperature of the soils under the building. Yes, a warm house sitting on a patch of ground will loose heat to the soil,, but you will wait decades before you see any substantial change. Temp of the soils beneath the house I am sitting in, 6 feet down, is 52 to 54 F Air is easy to heat, water is not easy, concrete is harder yet, the soils under the house close to impossible. If you isolate the concrete slab,, concrete is not in contact with footings, soils, or outside air at any point,, I repeat, at any point. The slab will be at the temp and relative humidity of the air above it. 70F air? 70F concrete. If the slab is in contact with the soils. the slab temp will be 52 to 54F. If the slab is exposed to outside air,, and the air is 10F then the slab will be 10F or close to it. R values. R values measure the resistance to heat flow. Common fiberglass insulation,, 3.5 inches R-13, R-4 per inch. Now line that up with R-4 per inch and foam under the slab is similar,, a 2 inch thick foam will be about an R-8 BUT,,, wood is about R-1 per inch,,, Concrete R-.08,, 8/100ths per inch it takes 13 feet of concrete to equal the insulation of one inch of wood.,, annnnnd if there is a bit of water involved,,there always is with soils and concrete,, that 13 feet will be more like 20 feet of concrete equals one inch of wood... If your foam job under the slab is just a little bit careless,,, the toilet pipe sticking up through the slab.. If the concrete flows down and around the pipe to reach the soils under the house,, it is called a 'thermal bridge'. that less than one square foot of concrete in contact with the soil,, will conduct the water in the soil up into the slab,, and drain away the heat. one square foot of careless install will chill 400 or 500 square feet of floor. Keep in mind,, as Steven said,, this is just a thumb nail clipping,, sort of over view. The full subject is a years long university level,,, you can get your masters in thermodynamics. The case of a house? Easier to think about a swimming pool of water,, poke a hole with a nail,, the water leaks slowly,, punch a basket ball sized hole It will all drain out rapidly. And this is just discussing the heat loss to the the under lying soils or outside air.

[@rayjackson4547]

I am a contractor can carpenter for the past 45 years and I still admire good flat work. You guys work really well together. You have a great system

[@KrisT1622]

Gotta have that thermal break to decouple the concrete from the ground. This keep the energy (heat or cool) in the house and makes it more efficient.

[@RussellNelson]

Also have to have a thermal break between the concrete wall and the slab, otherwise your slab is effectively uninsulated and the edges will be cold in the winter and accumulate condensation in the summer.

[@meyou8141]

With energy costs increasing, it probably makes sense in the long run. Add in the comfort of floors being warmer and the risk of floors sweating it makes even more sense.

[@meyatetana2973]

Umm it'd make more sense for hollow floors not cement floors

[@johnunsicker7440]

@@meyatetana2973 Actually insulation concrete floor is the best because you lose so much heat trough them. It just helps so much.

[@pghgeo816]

@@meyatetana2973 Do your research. Hot goes to cold, if the floor is cold then your furnace or whatever you have is constantly trying to warm that cold slab. that slab it coventing the heat into the earth instead of you. Over the lifetime of that house that $3000 will pay it back many many times over. Not to mention the comfort factor. in Ma the new energy standard for new and remodeled house is HERS 42 0 being the highest score possible you should see what it takes to get to that level. homes built in the 1950s would most likely score a rating between 120 and 130.

[@user-fx4qz8pt3w]

Here in Alaska had my garage floor replaced with a heated slab. I set the grade myself and put a vapor barrier and 2" blue board. Going into the 3rd winter and it was well worth the extra cost.

[@timothyjohnson6055]

Do not use the pink, green, blue, yellow foam in the ground. This is XPS, junk. It absorbs and holds water. There goes your r-value. Use EPS or GPS. And apply proper drainage.

[@ColinWatters]

I have 80mm/3.5" of PIR here in the UK and if building again I would probably fit more like 120mm/5".

[@davidbrewer7937]

We had a house fire in 2017. The original house is over dirt crawl space. I worked with a contractor friend to rebuild, but he handled the crawl space floor stage while I was in hospital. The plan required 4" Styrofoam under 4" concrete to form a conditioned crawl space but he skipped that part, opting only to put 6mil poly down. The skipped stage is a pain in the arse because the floor is a cold surface & atmospheric humidity causes the floor to shadow condensed moisture. It also creates a significant temperature gradient, nice in summer for cool but horrid in winter when it gets cold by your feet. I still have to fix this, but tge effort & expense to retrofit is big.... so, YES you do need the Styrofoam for a conditioned space like a basement or non vented crawl space.

[@aarongrabowski3775]

You guys are like a well oiled machine. Thanks for the video’s Mike. I haven’t poured any mud since early this summer. My back is totally ruined. 29 years of pouring concrete foundations and flatwork has caught up with me. I miss it. At least I can still watch you guys doing it.

[@slowfinger2]

My friends basement floor included a cold-room/food storage pantry. He left out the insulation under that part of the slab, but separated/isolated around the section with vertical foam. We walked on it with bare feet in the winter he finished it. What a difference, even without the walls up.

[@RJS1966USMC]

In June 2022, we had our barn floor poured by a professional crew (40'x64'). Our building site was sloped, so we needed a lot of fill material to prep for the floor. 200 yards of clean fill sand compacted as we went. We put a 10 mil vapor barrier on top of the compacted sand, (we were trying to battle frequent rains that kept causing us problems) then 2 inch thick pink foam board (25 psi rated, R-10) then another 10 mil vapor barrier, then #4 rebar on 1 1/2" chairs 16" on center both directions. 4" slab of 4,000psi concrete with fiber reinforcement. After that set up for 30 days, we were able to start construction of the barn. The posts are set into brackets that were wet-set into sono tube footings that were poured months before the floor. As a precaution against burrowing animals, we also built our own "rat wall" 24 inches high between each sono tube using 4" x 8" x 16" concrete blocks and adhesive. We just did it "LEGO" style. Then we backfilled inside and outside together, compacting as we went. I chose "floor first" because it allowed me to use a borrowed scissor lift to help install the truss bracing and all the roof purlins. So, except for the concrete inself, the whole project has been DIY with my two sons. Nothing will ever crawl under our floor and cave it in. And we should be able to keep it a comfortable temperature without massive heat loss.

[@HistoricHomePlans]

Nice, clean work! It's a pleasure to see. 1:25 You can put the vapor barrier under the foam insulation, like here, or you can put it on top. Both work. But there's a big advantage putting the vapor barrier on top. When you do it like in this video you can accidentally get concrete under the insulation, which floats up really easily. Once that starts to happen it gets really hard to get it under control. With the vapor barrier on top you avoid that problem entirely. 5:34 If the slab isn't structural, which is it most often isn't, then it's good to put 1"-2" of foam insulation vertically, on the inside of the raised portion of the foundation wall. This makes a thermal separation between the slab and the concrete foundation. That's a detail that really should be in the construction drawings because it needs to be coordinated with interior finishes and trim. 7:00 It's certainly not necessary to put insulation under a stand alone garage slab. But there's one case where you want to do it. If you're in an area with deep ground frost, you can avoid having to put in a deep foundation by doing a "frost protected shallow foundation" design. (Google that phrase. It could save you money.)

[@RedStorm.]

Don’t you need rebar, or mesh in that floor?

[@dementus420]

Sitting here at the store, eating my breakfast before I go pour and finish 2 smallish apartment slabs. It's gonna be 85°+ here in Central Georgia today, so hopefully it doesn't get up and get gone too fast. We did one Monday and it was a job just keeping up with it. We contemplated renting another machine to help out our 2 company troweling machines, but I think we'll probably try and get by with 2. Well, time to go do this. Everyone have a good day.

[@brentpearson4877]

How’s it go ?

[@alsteeves2044]

The insulation cost is inline with our area. Just built our home with a total of 2200 ft of hydronic heated slab and 2.5" of foam to code. Cost was 2500 bucks for foam. We moved in 3 weeks ago and are in very comfortable surroundings. ICF walkout, 2 x 8 R28 main floor, R60 blown in attic. A cacoon for us retirees. Love watching a well oiled machine like your crew. Go for it! Did I mention I operate a redi mix truck? That slump is crazy 😂 Great vid!

[@bluecollar58]

Can you really call that a slump. More like a slurry. If they add a little more water it will self level , lol.

[@alsteeves2044]

@@bluecollar58 Hear ya. If the finisher hollers to roll in more water, ya turn it on and rev er 👆 up

[@CrazyRFGuy]

Great video. A leaf blower does wonders for drying off the foam panels.

[@johncatalano9551]

I almost tipped over when you said you guys started at 7 a.m. and it's now 8:30 a.m. . That was quick. The work you do is not just a trade but an art.

[@jamestamu83]

At what concrete thickness do you need to add rebar reinforcement?

[@joeycmore]

With just enough concrete pour experience to be dangerous, I can confidently say that you do damn good work while making it look damn easy. Keep it up.

[@normbograham]

R value of foam, is about 6.5 per inch, or 13 for 2". Whereas 2 inches of gravel/air, is about 7. wall insulation, is about 9, etc. So, by comparison, requiring Styrofoam, under concrete, is not providing the best bang for the insulation buck. But, I've seen a garage with heated floors. You can open the doors, and still be comfortable. So, adding the heat is a game changer.

[@THEjasonTDI]

Should absolutely do it. Best decision I made under my new building. No damp floors from sweating and it stays warmer/cooler.

[@larryhack4038]

Nice work, but the concrete seems extra wet and being from California, it’s really strange that it doesn’t have wire mesh or rebar in it. I’m sure the rebar’s in the footings, but strange not seeing anything in the slab.

[@carmelopappalardo8477]

Ditto.

[@RussellNelson]

9:40 Also, assuming they plow their driveway with a truck, how is the truck going to slide past the door of the garage? You always want to push the snow *past* the garage door rather than up to it.

[@tstatech]

You are going to have to insulate the exterior also according to new building codes

[@williamadair8301]

Here in New Zealand, which has a pretty mild climate, 100mm (about 4 inched) of foam is required.

[@Erik-rp1hi]

In Ca. re-bar mandatory. My area footing have to bed into bedrock 18". My home had upper lever trenches 60" deep. Basalt bedrock. No foam needed. I run the furnace maybe 2 weeks a year. Otherwise down comforter and sweat shirts.

[@powerwagon3731]

R 15 (3inch blue board ) here in the Colorado mountains. 4000 psi and fiber. Man I wish I had your crew, I would come out of retirement!

[@zemanzee8949]

What about a thermal break at the edge of slab to side of wall??

[@chipsutcliffe7110]

The codes are there for a reason. Building has become a science, and the owner should not have the choice to ignore them because some contractor says slab insulation isn't really needed.

[@shittyopinions]

ok because NO CODE was ever "enforced" to turn a buck...

[@burningsporkdeath]

Coming from an engineer involved in construction for 20 years you have no clue at all. The "codes" are simply a money grab and a place for people to play cop.

[@topduk]

Make everything too expensive, that way people can be safe sleeping on the streets.

[@stevenpringle7813]

I see the foam boards moving up and down when they are walked on. How level does the ground have to be under it? Will the weight of the concrete push it down so that it won't push down more when more weight is put on it once it dry? I would think that in a garage if there was foam it could crack the floor when a truck drives on it depending on how flat the ground is under the foam.

[@BrandonWicknick]

I just poured my floors yesterday and my dirt was so uneven underneath and I had the exact question. We had to pour anyways but I worry about how that may affect settling in the future. We did end up using rebar 24oc hoping that helps hold it all together well.

[@jimkemp308]

I was always told that you don’t put air in the concrete if you’re going to polish it because you might see the air holes.

[@mikedandar1171]

Hi Mike, really enjoy your videos and your explanation of what you’re doing. Here in Minnesota it is mandatory to put foam under new home floors whether there is in-floor heat. It is a radiant barrier that keeps the floor from sweating. It’s especially crucial if they are laying carpet on it so that it doesn’t get mildew. I don’t like my garage floors to sweat either so I always lay foam down. Code enforcement isn’t available in most of the smaller towns but the state says we are all obligated to follow it regardless of inspections or not. Keep up the great content!

[@frankgrant4784]

No rebar in house or garage?

[@TheJagjr4450]

I put styro under my slab and no matter the weather I NEVER get any moisture settling out on the slab. I still wish I would have piped it for heating inside the slab. I will never do another one without insulation AND piped with PEX for heating.

[@tomhetherington756]

$3,000.00 well spent. for an additional $1000.00, I would have intalled pex tubing for radiant floor heating by stapling directlty the tubing to the foam board.

[@guidocasero1178]

Damn..!!!! This guy Mike has the concrete packed down to a science.

[@peep39]

I lived in a duplex in kansas with an attached garage that had no drain. we were only there a few years, but the melt and rain off the car made the humidity and the mud joints on the ceiling just fell right off

[@brianblithe2271]

Arent basements the norm up North ? weird to see a house in Maine but maybe im wrong ? Do you know how long the plastic and or foam lasts under the concrete being in cement work ? Have you ever dug one up and seen first hand ? What would happen if it all decayed or in spots ? How about the weight of the concrete much less the weight of the house and everything in it having an affect on foam ?

[@phillhuddleston9445]

Government should not be able to force you to do things with your own property that you don't want to do, they are supposed to work for us not the other way around but even if you say they should be able to it should only apply when safety is at risk and adding foam has nothing to do with safety!

[@legionair469]

Cold weather climates are a different animal compared to southern building. A small investment now will save you thousands down the road.

[@thomasjrusso9280]

why is this any different than neglecting to put insulation in the walls and roof of a heated space?

[@antilogism]

The thermal gradient is much smaller so insulation has a lower return. It's nearly temporate in warmer areas and in fact good ground conduction is prefered when used with excellent insulation of roof and walls. This is why caves and dugouts stay pretty nice.

[@markstults6603]

Depending on your state you are required to install insulation below the slab in new residential homes. The owner will save that money and then some in heating cost.

[@lassei4659]

6:50 A garage with no styrofoam. How does that hold up in the winter, thinking frost creepin into the concrete and may be prone to damage? You got a video bout that? Reason is i live in Denmark north scandinavia Europe, and just like this project the styrofoam is fking expensive, and i want to build a SA garage.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

It's probably worth it, whether you heat the garage or not, to put Styrofoam under the floor. I know it's expensive. I have it in my garage, unheated, and it rarely gets below freezing in there. My walls are also insulated though.

[@lassei4659]

@@MikeDayConcrete you are awesome to hit me back that quickly, thx Mike. Ill take your advice into the planning of the building.

[@feonix138]

Are you using a thermal break between the wall and slab?

[@CMCraftsman]

Two things I’d never pour concrete without… A vapor barrier and insulation. You should insulate under the vapor barrier so the poly iso doesn’t float up to the surface.

[@billtaber5093]

I was required to tape the poly seams with a specific tape and caulk seal the poly to the perimeter vertical foundation. The foam sheets are also glued with the proper adhesive. The poly is never going to move - float up to the surface.

[@leftylou6070]

Do you pour samples to send to the lab for testing?

[@HotNoob]

its better to put insulation along the sides... when putting underneath, it reduces strength and thermal mass. like wise, blocking out any potential geothermal heat. heat is lost mainly through the sides; dirt is both insulative and a thermal mass. i did on the sides for my building... a month of -10*c so far, unheated partially insulated house... sitting at 5*c inside. free geothermal heat that otherwise would have been blocked out.

[@kevinolesik1500]

nice job ... that'll be an insulated floor ...worth the 3000$ for a heated space ... will it crack ?

[@jefferykeeper9034]

I know what your talking about, because in high-school I took all the shop classes I could, they asked me why I told them how's going to build your home?

[@fuffoon]

In the last few years, energy costs have made insulation and other energy saving measure imperative. When utilities screamed past the price of a mortgage...😢

[@DGill48]

Soon as I heard your voice, I knew this was in Maine. But looking at the woods in the background, it's not northern Maine. I grew up in Madison.

[@chrisosti]

Good lord...no steel??? Wow 😞

[@DanielJohnson-ec8rk]

They used fiber but I would only use steel

[@TimeToCheckReality]

Yes, the foam is useful and REAUIRED. It is insulation, for the ignorant poster, it is not a vapor barrier. Will help a lot in not haing cold floors.

[@mlj6419]

Another great video explaining the process. Good job Mike and crew.

[@James-uk4xi]

Can't quite say why but right at the start I was like those kinda look like maine woods. But then I could've made that connection without knowing just hearing you talk now that I think about it

[@daskritterhaus5491]

an option is to sacrifice some ceiling height by installing an insulated floor. this should be left to the homeowner there are advantages to deferring investments in the interests of grabbing a property and getting on the bandwagon.

[@jessesawyer3875]

Hi Mike I poured 31 yards in Thomaston today early start, a 1.5 bags calcium per truck and the thing still wouldn’t kick , by about 4 o’clock we took the trowel off and handed it out. How much calcium do you use ? , and do you ever just hand em out when it’s colder?

[@mikejohnson9118]

So you use plastic and foamboard? I thought the foamboard acted as a vapor barrier as well.?

[@neeosstuff7540]

Well done. Looks like I should hire pros like you in the future.

[@splanzza]

Look at that InSync movement @13:12. That right there is enough to get hired ... again. 👍

[@markwhite6782]

I'm from rural Oklahoma so I have never heard of code or regulations, we just built our house.

[@I_Dont_Answer_Questions]

Entitled ignorance. You so proud.

[@henryfehr6202]

You should come to Canada and see these regulations. 3000 dollars for foam is nothing. Everything that gets lived in gets designed by an engineer and i think they own or get kickbacks from foam sales.

[@KenPurcell]

Nice to watch a good team.

[@dailyreader506]

It can seem like a unnecessary cost burden for an unheated garage floor. However if in 10 years the owner decides to use that space for any other purpose that would require space heating (workshop, office, living space) it is going to be much less effort and cost to bring it up to the desired insulation performance level. Cheaper to do it up front. Can’t comment on building code inconsistencies though. Don’t have the numbers for Maine but the savings on any future heating costs would pay for that work quickly. Most building code upgrades are based on lots of experience and data.

[@timquirk7551]

Doing a couple slabs soon for a carport and workshop. I have poly down under the mesh/rebar. Job got pushed as it's November and rain came in. How much water on the poly is too much water? I was planning to wet vac and leaf blower it off, but I see you not worrying about it here. I also heard you always want poly directly against concrete (not under foam or sand etc, because that will trap the water and force it to slowly evaporate up thorugh the concrete, could take years). Do you know why this builder put poly under the foam? Thanks

[@HuntMountain06]

They are already pouring soup. What’s a little more water at that point??

[@bobturner6516]

for any space that you're going to occupy a thermal break is a no brainer in colder climates, southern climates I think it should be up to the home owner

[@Sailor376also]

Pouring on foam insulation greatly speeds set time. Your guys are quick. You'll have no problems. Alarm bells went off in my head when you said you were using an accelerant. Careful. I've been putting foam under all my slabs for 40 years now. (retired now) Blame me. And the Best use is for an unheated space. My shop, my garage, they don't freeze in the winter. The shop,, 15 or 20F degrees warmer in than out in the winter,, and 15 or 20F cooler in the summer heat. But DON'T let your concrete slab touch the surrounding block or foundation, don't let it sink in around your plumbing or electrical intrusions. If you are gonna put foam under the whole thing,, make sure it is isolated,, not in contact with footings, soil, or outside air. You lose all benefit.

[@jonathanbair523]

I was watching to see what had to be remove/redone.... Sounds like the title should say "Code Enforcement Costs Owner $3000 extra For Styrofoam Under Concrete Floor"....With the tittle now I found this and was not sure if no Styrofoam was put down or I was thinking more likely wrong type/to thin was put down.

[@UNUSUALUSERNAME220]

Me too. I always expect code enforcement to make things more difficult, and expensive. You should know what the code in the area you are building on calls for. So should anyone that is pouring foundation, but ultimately it's the builder and homeowner's responsibility.

[@peterhaynes3661]

We pay $200 per yard in San Diego ,what your price ?

[@willdejong7763]

There's something cool about watching skilled workers getting a job done as a team. As for the floor insulation, I bet it pays for itself pretty quick in Maine. Better insulation allows you to use a smaller HVAC system, so you save some of that money right away. I think you said heat pump, so electric. If (when) the power goes out a small wood burning fireplace might be able to heat the whole house without much effort. Good insulation is even more important if you're going off grid and using solar panels, batteries, and generators; then those don't have to be as powerful, so you probably start out actually saving money.

[@stevejohnstonbaugh9171]

Absolutely under floor or perimeter foundation insulation should be code. You only get one chance to do it right and the only way to stop the short sighted from cutting corners is to have "code cops". It's too bad that we need code cops - but that's the way the world turns. Buy the way - for ground contact, you want to use EPS - not blue board or pink board.

[@ZipKickGo]

The one thing about weird elevation lots is I always say, if the driveway approach is ever in question, like a level lot house no one thinks about it so it's fine, but funky lots, just lower or raise the house 4' closer to the road height. It's either too high or too low as is. I've slid my truck off a hillside getting to a site because it was too low from the road. It makes a world of difference moving some dirt around rather than gambling.

[@rfarevalo]

the code inspector is correct. in this case the government regulation is doing the homeowner a favor, saving them from their own ignorance. foam insulation is a must.

[@tightwad]

85% of heat loss is thru roof. Cold floors do suck tho. Dont like how foam flexes under workers, hope fiber additive stops cracks in concrete.

[@rjthomasindyusa]

I'm not sure to what climate you are in.... but I've been building and remodeling homes for 25 years. Its my belief that homes are grossly under insulated. You can heat and air condition a house with very little energy in a highly insulated home. Home construction standards in America is embarrassing when you compare it to some Nordic countries....

[@garage3022]

All that is true... I am from a nordic country where code is strict and adds 50k worth of cost to an otherwise simple home. Its a slippery slope once they start making up laws, it never ends. The end result is these very efficient new builds that no working man can afford, resulting in a housing crisis. So be carefull what you wish for. America should be about freedom to make your own choices. We've lost our way here

[@professorg8383]

@@garage3022 Seems to me that codes should be about technical standards, structural adequateness, safety and that sort of purely technical requirements. Things like energy efficiency, handicap access and such should be recommendations and if done right, tied to tax credits and other incentives. I'm fine with policy that requires these things in public and even commercial buildings, but private residential is another story. Yu can certify aspects of these optional things that potentially increase the assessed value and incentives can be used to offset costs, but forcing you to do such things is an infringement on you freedoms. And the value of such things has a lot to do with the climate you are in. That gas a lot to do with how long it takes to payback on the energy,

[@songs4u2001]

Not only that, it puts immediate stress on supply chains. As soon as a policy is passed for more insulation for example, there is increased demand that the market takes time to normalize. This causes prices to increase in the short term, and supplier profits to increase in short term, causing windfall $$ to a few lucky people. Its is a tricky situation encompassing the environment, socioeconomics, and basic economics. @@professorg8383

[@antilogism]

@@garage3022 $50k, assuming 50% energy savings, is maybe 112 years until payback in our 15 y.o. Vermont house.

[@josephmclennan1229]

No rebar or wire?

[@MikeDayConcrete]

No, not needed in this case. There is fibermesh in the concrete though.

[@jjohnson479]

I love the information that you are providing. When you referring to pricing, such as $/sqft: how do you know that is covering all your expenses and still making a profit? Do you have any videos showing a total cost of a job?

[@alanviner3711]

pretty large floor with no steel??? Any reaSON FOR NO RE-BAR

[@karenstein8261]

With a career in contracting . . . While there have been a few times I've been on jobs where there were "surprises" in the specifications, I've never been on a job where the contractors were surprised by the inspector! Well, maybe I need to qualify that. I have seen contractors be surprised when they were doing a job outside of their usual scope. Or, they were newbies whose enthusiasm exceeded their experience. Biggest problem? You have to know more than "your" code. Especially with the newer energy, LEED, ADA, and 'whatever' codes popping up like mushrooms.

[@caleccopest]

that crew is fluid.....

[@marcosmota1094]

The styrofoam keeps the house energy efficient. So if 1,000 homes consolidated in one area need utility gas/electricity, that power density doesn't tax the state infrastructure as much. If you want to live in a small hamlet and do your own thing as a small community, then you get a pass on the regs. Energy is everything and it has to be delivered reliably and efficiently.

[@rpvitiello]

Of course it’s not up to the homeowner to not follow code, because eventually that house will be re sold to someone else.

[@bjkjoseph]

That’s nothing, I had to pay 25 grand for my rainwater. House was destroyed in hurricane I’m the lowest property around, and I had to build this system to contain my rainwater, I’m pretty much right at sea level so it’s pretty ridiculous. I’m in New York and I can’t wait to get the hell out of here.

[@JuanSanchez-ik7wx]

Garage floor has a crazy slope.

[@ericberman4193]

You asked whether or not 2" of styrofoam insulation should be required. Questions: (1) Based on your commentary, you are working in the State of Main. What set of Building Codes are you working under? and (2) Does that set of Building Codes require 2": of sub-slab styrofoam insulation? It would appear that if the Code Enforcement Officer required installation of 2" sub-slab styrofoam insulation, that the Building Code required it.

[@jasonwilliams3967]

Where's the rebar?

[@kallmewas]

No reo bars? Is that a US thing ?

[@edbaird7687]

Hey Mike, can you give me a rough estimate off the top of your head? For a 20 x 24 full foundation. Just to have the walls done. I would handle excavation, footers and I would do the floor. This would be for my camp in Dover Foxcroft. I’m probably going to block build it, but I am really curious what it would cost to have it poured. As always, I love your videos.

[@andrewshedron425]

I'm in Ohio. We have to do 2' on the inner side of the rat wall and 2' wide perimeter ones laying on top of them.

[@rs2024-s4u]

Why no expansion joint used? Ray Stormont

[@HuntMountain06]

Love the 16” slump.

[@SegoMan]

Water Saver..

[@gaiustacitus4242]

The homeowner was fortunate to only incur $3,000 in unplanned costs for the concrete slab. The average cost is $10,000 and can be as expensive as $25,000.

[@David0lyle]

Well, insulation is one of those mathematical things. You get the greatest value from the first inch. The next inch is less and so on. Well, getting the homeowner to agree to the first inch is probably the greatest obstacle. 🤷 an inch sounds like plenty as the alternative is nothing.

[@Bearlaw67]

It's common practice in Canada

[@stever2583]

Should learn the code then... You are lucky... In my city its 6" foam and then a water barrier.

[@cantseeneedcaps]

HOW CAN FOAM SUPPORT A HOUSE, ALOT OF CRACKS I THINK THEM THE HOUSE WILL BE CONDEMMED

[@bretburt7317]

As a Contractor, local code is local code. Doesn't matter if it is necessary. If you don't agree with it, go to the city council meetings before you start to pour.

[@cloudchaser966]

I am obviously no expert, so my question is: You are pouring this huge slab without any steel rebar reinforcement. Especially since it is also on top of a layer of styrofoam, isn't that just asking for cracks later on?

[@I_Dont_Answer_Questions]

All concrete cracks.

[@cloudchaser966]

No it doesn't. Growing up in Europe, even in single family houses the floors between basement and ground floor, and ground floor and second floor are usually not wood, but concrete. I have never seen cracks in those floors. But they are indeed highly steel reinforced. On the other hand, almost every basement or garage floor that I see in north America has cracks. I am beginning to understand why that is, lol!

[@BadWolf762]

@@I_Dont_Answer_Questions The concrete in my 2,400 square foot shop is over 20 years old and there are no cracks. I have heavy machining centers in it and also drive heavy pickups in and out. I had the contractor put in additional rebar and higher psi concrete also. If done right it does not crack.

[@mr.upcycle9589]

They require styrofoam.... but not rebar or at least wire mesh 🤦‍♂️. Code says you need an energy efficient slab, just not a solid or long lasting one...😂

[@jomarlefevre5311]

That concrete looks very runny, too much water will compromise it's strength, I guess it might be okay for a one single floor structure

[@henryfehr6202]

I see that a lot on KZbin videos. I wish the homeowners would require slump and strength test. A whole new ballgame.