Cold Steel Viking Hand Axe - Is it a tool, a weapon, or a collector piece? Let’s find out…

Taking a look at the Cold Steel Viking Hand Axe and bringing it outside for some chopping.
Let’s find out if this is a tool, a weapon, or a collector piece…

[@MrAlexH1991]

This axe is PRIMARILY a weapon for fighting and killing men. The Vikings were very fond of this type of build specifically because when you used it, the mechanics of how the handle friction mounted into the socket would next-to-NEVER come undone while using it in full-blown pitched battle. The mechanics of an axe swing also facilitated that AS you used it, the head would just mount even more securely and tightly UPWARD on the handle as it was used. But if the handle ever broke, it was also insanely easy to replace. The handles were of a simple build, and as long as the top of the haft was carved to the right dimensions, and the rest of the handle was able to thread through the socket, then BOOM. You’ve replaced your broken handle. But it can still absolutely fell small trees, buck them, and split the logs. Don’t expect it to split through logs thicker than four inches, five inches at best, though. Vikings LOVED axes like this, because aside from being raiders and pillagers, they were also bushcrafters and woodsmen, shipwrights, builders, carpenters, farmers, etc. Outside of fighting and killing men, these kinds of axes were designed primarily for LIGHT bushcrafting tasks. They CAN split logs, just not overly thick ones. And you can still build fires and bush shelters with lumber that’s not overly thick or beefy. Viking raiders/conquerors did a lot of travelling and camping through farming countrysides and wooded territories. They were almost always on the go when on the warpath. So they weren’t exactly toting every single meticulously purposed wood processing tool they owned back at home in whatever Kingdom/Jarldon of Scandinavia they were from. That, and iron wasn’t as readily and expendably available to Scandinavia as it was to, say, Angleland, Frisia, etc. So this kind of axe was the best use of relatively scarce/expensive iron, and was also still perfect for many, MANY a Viking on a military campaign - cause it could do a lot of the stuff they needed to do in order to build fires, shelters, carve tools, etc., AND it was still an excellent design for fighting and killing men (because of the edge geometry, as well as how light and nimble the overall axe is compared to a large splitting or felling axe,) AND it’s really easy to replace the handle. You can even fashion and carry much shorter handles for this ONE axe head if you’re looking to temporarily convert it into a hatchet. Like if you wanted to just tippity-tap-tap the LONG handle out of the socket and quickly tippity-tap-tap the much shorter, hatchet-length handle in for finer bushcraft/carving/debarking tasks, then you can absolutely do so - and do so EASILY. The overall axe is *purposely* designed to be *easily* disassembled. But in such a way that you almost HAVE to perform the very SPECIFIC demounting impact action in order to get the head to completely wiggle loose (you just give the BOTTOM of the handle a few good thwacks with something preferably made of wood, and the axe head will very easily wiggle completely loose.) It’s friction-/slip-mounted, and these kinds of axes are explicitly constructed like that *by design.* The replacement handles are easily tapped into place and they’ll still mount NICE and solidly. And if they DO start to loosen up a bit, you can just thwack the top of the handle and get inertia to do the work in making the axe head go up and friction mount back into a nice solid ‘that ain’t goin nowhere’ feel. People call this kind of axe construction “stupid” and/or “RIDICULOUSLY inferior to the wedge-/compression-mounting method.”……. And YET… these very kinds of axes helped the Vikings make almost all of Europe their BITCH for several centuries. You can also get TWO tools out of one axe head. And another thing that Vikings did if they ever found themselves in a situation where they needed to apply non-lethal violence to someone (like a talk shit, get hit scenario - but they didn’t actually wanna kill the person,) was to just pop the axe heads off and stow them, then just start beating the brakes off the miscreant with their axe handles. 🤣 There is mechanical and utilitarian GENIUS to the design of the Viking age, friction mounted battle-AND-bushcraft axes. And it’s kind of a crying shame that more people don’t recognize and appreciate their genius.

[@theedcden5515]

Hey great info here thank you 👍🤙

[@greyglassL92]

It’s just not designed for processing firewood, there would be a much more dramatic wedge shape if it were.

[@longrider42]

Its called a "Bearded Axe" and it is made this way due to lack of iron in the area of the vikings. So it is just what an axe needs to be. No more, no less. I love mine. Remove that set screw, take the axe head to a good hardware store and find a bolt that threats in. Get some Blue locktite apply to the bolt, screw the bolt into the hole until the end is flush with the inside of the axe eye. Let sit over knife, then cut the head of the bolt off and sand flush and refinish the axe head. As for the axe getting stuck in the wood. That is because the axe is over sharpened. I've changed the angle of the edge on mine to 24 degree's and it works much better. Its a good tool/weapon.

[@choirboyzcutleryoutdoors]

I keep one of these. Now I'm not saying I use it a lot but I love the damn thing . If you put the right amount of time to it just like anything else it will work fine for what you need it for.. great look at it brother!

[@thethiccwarrior6675]

I have had this ax for several years I have only ever used it as a tool despite its weapon design and it has served me greatly I have smashed through doors cabinets and bed frames I’ve also cut down trees with it and split large logs And even after six years of this abuse, it still standing strong the handle has broken a few times, but getting or making a new ones not too bad Despite the thin blade, it’s a surprisingly good splitter I think it’s because of how dramatically the eyehole swells I am a short man, and this axe also acts nicely as a cane in the winter

[@steffenb.jrgensen2014]

For splitting wood you would need an axe blade with a much more distinct wedge shape but as a weapon the hook/beard is very handy to grab the edge of a shield or a weapon and the axehead need to be as light as possible. I have this Cold steel bearded axe, but for combat you need to hold it a little up the handle to get a good balance, but I often have it in my truck when I go hunting, the long handle and the beard makes it handy when clearing growth away from infront of treestands etc. With a little skill the bearded axe can also be used as a planer.

[@genghiskhan6809]

The reason it’s sold alongside their tomahawks is because you’re supposed to think of it and use it like a tomahawk. You can use it for light bush work and wood crafting but it’s still mostly a weapon.

[@Spiritof48]

Cold steel market almost all their stuff as weapons 😉 But a lot of it are good solid tools too . Why I like their products . ( Hopefully I’m not getting into any Viking axe combat situations any time soon😅) 👍

[@theedcden5515]

Lol good point 👍🤙

[@longrider42]

P.S. its not really heavy enough to split big stuff. So take that for what its worth. Okay, after you've removed the set screw. Take the head off the handle, get some 60 grit sand paper and a good wood rasp and begin to carefully remove those torn pieces. Yes this head is supposed to be friction fit. But, leave at least one half inch of handle above the head. Now if you want to secure it, use Hot glue on the end of the handle and a bit inside the eye of the axe, works great. Good luck and stay safe.

[@theedcden5515]

Hey James thanks for the tips here in the comment section! 👍🤙

[@160moebius2]

the thin blade and light weight make it a good felling axe

[@Steven-jn2cw]

The complete opposite is true.

[@alanashley6097]

I have a couple. One I bought off of eBay after the seller modified the head and shortened the handle. The other I bought new but the set screw is really frozen. I've tried Liquid Wrench repeatedly but it won't budge. The head is just loose otherwise.

[@jerseyknifeguy6382]

Shawn axes like that take sections at a time work from the outer in bud……. I do hear what your saying though it’s not a full blown chopper take it it small sections start on the outside small pieces at first!!!!! Thanks buddy it’s a cool wall hanger!!!!!! Good seeing you stay well out there

[@theedcden5515]

Hey Peter! Yeah, this one definitely isn’t a “back of the truck axe” lol. Hope all is well with you buddy! 👍🤙

[@novascotianinfj]

wrap the handle with nice looking absorbant rope- natural fiber. i used liquid nails and hemp rope. looks good and the head will never come down.

[@wavepropulsion1]

Looks can double as a parang machete, spear and walking stick. This bearded pattern comes from the lower middle ages as a farming tool, some was thicker but thanks for your concept of a long thin Hatchet, I believe is on point

[@theedcden5515]

Hey, thanks a lot for the comment 👍🤙

[@genghiskhan6809]

@@theedcden5515you can buy multiple different lengths of tomahawk handle from Cold Steel and they fit all their axes from their tomahawk catalog including the viking axe.

[@edwinabbel3783]

You should remove the screw and file the wood and round the head of the axe with some files to make it fit better, . I love Cold Steel!! Greetings from the Neatherlands.

[@theedcden5515]

Hey, good idea! I definitely plan on making some improvements. Greetings back at ya from CA - thanks for checking out the video 👍🤙

[@natetaylor9002]

It is a very good brush cutter + de-limber. But the thin (combat) blade is NOT good for splitting wood!

[@Guardian4080]

It's too thin to split large logs. The wedge is what splits the wood into. Keep it friction fit so you can remove it from the handle and use it like a ulu knife for food prep and scraping. Also makes a fair draw knife. I put mine on a shorter handle. No need for that much momentum with a thin light head.

[@theedcden5515]

Hey great thoughts here, thank you! 👍🤙

[@alexanderfenning8648]

You try felling a tree with it looks good for that.

[@nobodyatall7039]

Any axe that has any splitting power at all is almost certainly too heavy for field use, or has compromised cutting geometry, often both. Driving an axe into the grain of wood to split it is not something that I do, it's not efficient and it's not safe, it's something people do because they saw it in a movie or something. I split wood using improvised wedges, vastly superior technique. If we're talking about splitting wood for a wood stove at home then just use some cheap splitting maul from Home Depot.

[@spectermad9180]

It's meant to cut though a person not wood..get a Wood axe

[@adamleafy275]

I subscribed like i promised

[@theedcden5515]

Thanks buddy! Tell your friends haha! 👍🤙

[@epicpandaboi7822]

@@theedcden5515 I’m Adam’s friend, he told me about your channel and it seems interesting. You deserve a sub. / Kewin

[@theedcden5515]

Hey Kewin, thanks for the Sub! Have a great weekend buddy 👍🤙

[@MichaelR58]

Good review , thanks for sharing , God bless !

[@theedcden5515]

You are very welcome Michael, thanks! 👍🤙

[@ProudVet-Russ]

would such a thin head make for a good chopper, or would the extra unsupported material bellow be an issue and either bend or break?

[@ctp069ctp06o]

I'd be very surprised if it did. The beard isn't that thin it's like 4mm at least on the spine and it's 1055 high carbon steel.

[@davidkurle5418]

Thanks for putting this one to the test, it was neat to see! It won't make me give up my Fiskars, though. That thing goes through wood like a light saber. 🤣Cheers, buddy!

[@theedcden5515]

I’m a Fiskars guy too! And just started getting into Hultafors. But Fiskars has got to be the absolute best value. Fantastic tools. Thanks as always David 👍🤙

[@jeremyspaulding7735]

Not to bad for what it is. Great video 👍

[@theedcden5515]

Yo Jeremy, thanks for stopping by buddy. Have a great weekend 👍🤙

[@longrider42]

Never rule anything out. Who knows when some one might attack you, and all you have is that axe. Its light and fast. Also you an use the blunt side to whack some one. I put a 24 degree edge on mine using my Ken Onion Work Sharp. Takes and holds a good edge. Your idea of a small og, is a lot different them my idea. My idea of a small log is 6 to 8 inches in diameter.

[@SonoraSlinger]

Smaller than that is just a stick. Good idea on your edge reprofile. Did you go convex or flat?

[@longrider42]

@@SonoraSlinger Most likely a convex edge, since I used my Ken Onion Work Sharp, and it uses belts. A very useful sharpener. I used to help my dad cut and split fire wood for the winter. We'd use a full sized axe for logs up to 12 inches across, and a wedge or two for anything bigger. The Viking Hand Axe, just does not have the weight for large diameter log splittlng.

[@mrb4849]

It's not a splitting axe!!!

[@theedcden5515]

Sure isn’t.

[@jasonbailey9302]

I take mine to Waffle House. Used it in combat 3 times successfully.

[@christophervega3226]

Also to add really dumb it's a combat axe not a dam survival axe or a log splitting axe if that's the case I'd use my splitting axe not a combat bearded axe