Svea 123 Winter Modification

Testing a modification in sub-zero (F) temperatures that helps with priming the Svea 123 stove. I added a piece of carbon felt to the burner stem with a piece of wire. This allows more priming fuel to be used compared to the little trough and also lessens the chance of spilling the fuel. I'm very pleased with the result as I get a sub-zero stove fully primed in a single try and end up with a perfect blue flame.

[@tomsitzman3952]

Remember warm goes to cold. In winter set the stove on a square of cork to insulate the stove from the cold ground and that serves two purposes. It increases the base size adding stability and second it blocks the heat from moving to the cold. I've used this stove at -20 F with no problems. But first practice at home. In cold temperatures avoid spilling fuel on your bare skin. Or you can freeze the skin. Don't over fill the tank or there is no way the stove can self-pressurize.

[@telebruce221]

I saw this video about a year ago, tried the mod and it works VERY well in all temperatures. A pump is not needed at all. I've had my SVEA 123 since 1972, and I'd like to add a couple of tips: The original instructions said on priming it: open the cap to equalize the pressure in the tank. Use an eyedropper/straw whatever to drip fuel into the burner cap, let it run down the pressurizing tube into the cup on top of the tank. Close the cap, and ignite the fuel before it evaporates out of the burner. This quickly warms the whole thing, burner, tube and tank . Yes you will get a bit of a bigger flare up, but no problems there. Watch the height of the primer flame. the moment it begins to die down, just crack the valve open a little, and it should fire right up. Absolutely no need to reuse the lighter or reprime. If you get a bit of a flare up, just shut the valve and wait. It takes practice. I use alcohol as it doesn't soot up the stove so much. In very cold temperatures, I keep the container of alcohol in my sleeping bag at night so it is warm in the morning. Having the carbon felt is a brilliant way to extend the prime time and the stove is ready to go no matter how cold it is. Carbon felt can be found anywhere plumbing supplies are sold. It comes in a sheet, and is used by plumbers to protect flammable surfaces when sweating pipe. For a stove base, I have a piece of Duct Wrap insulation. I also have an aluminum wind screen, but you need to be VERY CAREFUL that the wind screen stays far enough away from the stove that it does not overheat. These are great stoves. My only issue with it in more than 40 years is they are susceptible wind. but after a while it becomes second nature finding the perfect spot to fire it up. My SVEA 123 (old version) weighs 1lb 3 oz with a full tank, usually enough fuel for a summer overnighter where I just boil water for a meal or two. Great stove, it has never once failed me in 40+ years, and the carbon felt is brilliant! I made the same mod on my Optimus 8R as well. Last tip: SVEA fits perfectly inside an Optimus Terra Weekend HE cook pot. Thanks!

[@ColoradoCamper]

Thanks for your comment! I'm glad you still get good use out of your Svea 123.

[@peetsnort]

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[@coffeepot3123]

I'm bookmarking this video, will definitely try this the day i buy one myself.

[@86GT11]

Great video! Great info, thank you! I picked one of these up at the Salvation Army for $10. I cant wait to try it out!

[@473specop]

I was issued the 'Number 7 cooker' for winter exercises in Norway, they looked like a smaller Svea in a metal box, we were supplied with 'Meta' tablets [slug poison] to ignite and build up the pressure for lighting. Any Hexamine or fire gel would do the job just as well. Still have a Number 7 cooker [fell off the back of a wagon] timeless design.

[@seasoldier3902]

Those were the days on the Clockwork trips to Norway! I to proffed my stove! Brilliant bit of kit but a little heavy in this modern era. Bought myself an Optimus Polaris multifuel stove for my car camping adventures now!

[@shugemery]

That is brilliant and I am doing that for sure,. Makes so much sense. Will do it tonight. Heading out Sat for a couple of nights. The temps are not going to be too cold but bringing the Svea to play with anf get to know. Thanks a bunch and Whoooooo Buddy))))))

[@ColoradoCamper]

I'm happy to help, and I hope making that modification makes your Svea perform even better in those cold Minnesota winters. I've also noticed that the felt makes it very easy to prime the stove with alcohol which is nice because it doesn't soot up your burner the way white gas does. Enjoy your upcoming trip!

[@michaelbeard3192]

I first used my Svea in the late 60's. I just took half a square of toilet paper, twisted into a rope then dipped it and wrapped the base like that. Never failed and you always (or better) have TP.

[@bigstick5278]

The carbon felt has been on all my SVEA's from day one after almost torching a picnic table and myself at a camp ground, that white gas spreads out fast and you can't see it sometimes. It doesn't take much time to pressure up the tank so no need to soak the carbon felt to death with alcohol. I have switched the PITA twisted braided chain with a small link chain, doesn't bunch up as much. I also moved my chain forward and mounted it between the jam nut and the valve assembly seems the chain does not bunch up as much. keeping that key off the valve while cooking is a must as once or twice branded by the valve key is enough. I keep it off until I need it. Cheers..

[@jonathanhanson2146]

Very informative, thanks! I always wondered about the efficacy of repeatedly opening the cap to re-prime. This makes much more sense.

[@RetrieverTrainingAlone]

To prime you can use alcohol like Heet which produces less carbon, or hand sanitizer. My SVEA instructions say fill tank to 1/3 capacity maximum. I like this and the MSR Whisperlite up here in Alaska for very cold weather when canister type stoves like Jetboil do not work well in the cold.

[@martinerhard8447]

mine says to fill to 120 ml of the 180ml max capacity

[@deador9192]

Wood stove door seal (fiberglass rope) works great, too.

[@245L6GwM]

I've used my Svea123 a lot since I bought it in 1967. I carry two other pieces of equipment with it: a half-liter fuel bottle and a Bic lighter. Before each use, I top up the fuel tank and PUT THE WINDSCREEN BACK ON. Then I place the stove on a heat- and fire-resistant surface (needs to be heat-insulating, too, if it's cold) and dribble a little fuel from the fuel bottle into the flame spreader until enough of it runs down the stem to fill the priming reservoir. After capping the fuel bottle tightly and setting it well aside, I strike a spark from the Bic somewhere in the vicinity of the windscreen and watch. I usually open the needle valve before the priming fluid is entirely consumed, so there's seldom any need to flic my Bic a second time.

[@245L6GwM]

These stoves were meant to stand up to daily use by men working in the fields and forests. They don't need to be coddled much.

[@f9qo]

My Svea is like close to fifty years old in use. From day one, I've always primed it by cracking open the valve a little, then briefly holding a match or lighter to the underside of the fuel tank. Even on very cold days it takes like a minute or less to get fuel coming out of the nozzle to light. You just have to be careful about not having too much fuel pumping out and running down the stem before lighting. That method might have even been in the original instructions the I don't have anymore,. You can do it with the outer body on the stove. If you set the stove on a warm surface it will prime as well. Depending on how warm a surface determines the time. Works for me.

[@spinntex]

I agree with Shug, I am going to setup my Svea 123 today just like you invented. That is a super modification and provides wonderful fire protection as well! Thank you so much and happy winder usage for that great little stove!

[@ColoradoCamper]

+Jay Collins Thank you. I have been very happy with how easy priming the stove has been with that modification. I hope you are happy too.

[@peetsnort]

@@ColoradoCamper and I also use kanthal wire due to the low resistance. The melting point is 1500 celcius. Makes great handles for very hot applications and appliances

[@martinerhard8447]

For winter use you should insulate the bottom. Also the little pumps get it started faster in very cold temps

[@adventureswithfrodo2721]

Good idea. I have seen a firewall flying through the air from to much fuel used in the priming bowl. fortunately it was the middle of the winter in the tetons.

[@marzsit9833]

the tank insulator is really the more important modification, because these stoves are brass they conduct heat very easily and if you place the tank directly on frozen ground or ice or snow the tank will cool rapidly and all of your pressure will go away. in the 70's we used to carry circles of closed-cell foam cut from old sleeping pads as stove insulators which worked very well.

[@cgarby]

Excellent. Just did this mod. I used denatured alcohol and it works great

[@Tishers]

I use a small strip of ceramic fiber cloth. It is 1/4" thick and I cut it out in to a little disk that is slightly smaller than the indent that holds the priming fuel. It is the same stuff that you see used in metal melting forges, kilns and ovens. (it is not asbestos).

[@fizzlebug]

Question! Would this work with a wound up piece of glass wool as well?

[@fechaed]

amazing old stove! the best!!!

[@Chainsaw2373]

I use alcohol gel made to prime stoves or warming it with my hands. In sub zero temps I use the priming pump I have for mine.

[@authorizeduser8355]

Thanks for the video you are a real inventor lol

[@RonMTube]

Great idea. Better than my approach, which was to use a donut shaped piece of felt with a slit to get it over the shaft. Yours uses less material and can't fall off.

[@ColoradoCamper]

Looks like we had the same idea, just executed a little differently. I'm sure you can just add some wire to your donut of felt to secure it. Cheers.

[@MTMith]

Badass mod brother. I've been wanting to do this to my Svea 123 since I saw HiramCook's vids on carbon felt and the Trangia stove. He cut a long strip of carbon felt to match the height of the trangia, rolled it up, and stuffed it inside to extend the burn time of the alcohol. Pretty cool. Thanks for a great vid!

[@ColoradoCamper]

Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

[@peetsnort]

@@ColoradoCamper vermiculite is good. Its difficult to work with but it's very inert. So I'm keeping it in my prep bag for all sorts of applications

[@tomsitzman3952]

A square of cork makes a good insulation base. and a wind screen should be all you need to get the stove going. I've never had a problem starting mine at -20F

[@bigstick5278]

You can also use fine steel wool if you can't find the expensive carbon felt.

[@Thereal111t]

Cool mod! I think the pumps are overrated too. Mostly because people misuse them. They tend to want to pump it up till its stiff just like stoves that require pumps. The svea 123 and other similar stoves like the optimus 80 or primus 71 self pressurize. Therefore if it is fully pressurized at the start it can over pressurize as it runs. Someone may ask "why don't you just take the fuel to prime it from your reserve fuel bottle?" The answer is that you always want to open the fuel cap on the stove before priming it to equalize the pressure. You did this... I'm just pointing it out and emphasizing it.

[@ColoradoCamper]

Yeah I never saw why the pumps would be needed, and your comment makes sense that if used improperly they could actually present a hazard. Plus they are expensive. Always good to emphasize the need to equalize pressure. In my review video of this stove I make special mention of that important step. I typically prefer to prime with a little denatured alcohol since it burns cleaner and doesn't soot up the stem and bell, but I have to remember to always equalize the pressure. Getting fuel from the tank is the foolproof way to ensure you always do it. Thanks for commenting and watching.

[@Bread996]

Thereal111t they can’t over pressurize due to the fact that there is a pressure relief valve built into the cap. And the pumps, although not necessary, do make these a bit easier to start.

[@stacyschewalje6553]

Thanks for the update

[@nwlady1844]

Glad I subscribed to your channel. I am a newbie trying to learn prior to blowing myself up. lol. looks like a great idea for even warmer outside temps. thank you.

[@ColoradoCamper]

Yes this is helpful for all types of temperatures. Cheers.

[@janmariolle]

Awesome idea! Thanks for sharing.

[@clivenewton7609]

Sorry for such a late response but have only just found this great channel! First class video with great info, here in the U.K. carbon felt is probably as rare as chickens teeth 😂 so initially substituted with firebox rope, worked ok, but have now switch to using a small squirt of ethanol fire gel, the stuff is being used more and more by Scouts and other youth movements to keep them away from liquid fules☹️!! I have to say the newer 123R stoves are of lesser quality than the originals, the brass of the tank is clearly not in the same ball park although it has to be said it still roars like the 70’s one I use to use back in the day! I still use my optimus 8R in its little blue box when the mood dictates 😎 once again many thanks, kind regards Clive from deepest Dorset 🇬🇧

[@6brettes]

ive never heard or seen of carbon felt before? its a great idea where could you possibly aquire a small amount?

[@ColoradoCamper]

The smallest amount that I'm aware of is sold at Home Depot or Lowes in the plumbing department. It's called an Oatey Flame Protector, used to sweating and soldering pipes. It costs about $15, and is way more than you need for a project like this.

[@6brettes]

+ColoradoCamper thanks ill see my local plumber give him a glass of wine im in s west france!! wines cheaper than carbon here!!

[@6brettes]

thanks for putting me straight!!

[@bigstick5278]

You can also use the material used on the MSR International stove priming wick. Wrap it around the valve stem with wire. The carbon felt is much more efficient but yes unless your splitting the cost $15.00 for a pad of Carbon felt is a bit pricey. I have used this for wicks on Alcohol stoves, and primer wicks on some of my MSR and MSR/Primus knock off stoves.

[@6brettes]

Ive now used ordinary grade wire wool as a winter primer in the priming cup retains more fuel for a longer pre ignition prime or burn!! The wick you talk about on a msr whisperlite my stove does not have it the fuel line cable is the fuel wick i just have primer cup and jet and burner unit after that So i didnt quite understand where you meant? regards the msr wick? Im quite ok with way it operates now it is the pumps you have got to watch more than anything elses in my prev past exp i am on my 5th!!!! 2 -4 in spares Or new untouched after contacted msr design dept via eu agents To complain at their uses of plastic polymers weak seals that leak fuel in their pump instead of using fireproof alloys i think msr need to up their game optimus nova kicks arse over a whisperlite for perf and longevity in use they use all metal pump parts and longer safer distanced fuel line cable Have 2 ways not 1 of switching it off on in any emergency One far away from any flames other nearer burner head With a silent burner fine engineered alloy unit s korean burner unit upgrade you can alter flame output by simple uses of a ord screwdriver in uses If necessary And increase flame silence & efficiency output!! Austrian.army have equipped their mt troops with it Optimus aftercare is guaranteeing all its parts msr i have found to be not so good in after sale care of their stove users and parts are pricey Not even bothering to reply to stove design faults or input Or recommendations By their clientele They sent me 3x new pumps for free after id had 2 serious malfunctions in use!! Which was at disgression of irish eu agent not msr usa Who admitted upon inspection that the stove had malfunctioned in some serious way After forking out £55 per pump X3 times in close succession Id paid more for the replacement pump units than entire stove was worth!!

[@peetsnort]

The alcohol stovebrigade go on and on about the weight. I have been using primus since I ran away from home at 17. The power to weight ratio wins every time. I like the alcohol stove for emergency coffee in the tent and the quietness

[@oxxnarrdflame8865]

I use a piece of old political plastic yard signs wrapped in foil for my stove bases. It's corrugated so good insolation. Carbon felt is a great idea. Thanks.

[@ColoradoCamper]

That would be a great solution as well. thanks for watching.

[@adventuremanintheclouds8968]

I keep a small eye dropper with white gas or alcohol. That's what I use to prime the stove so that I don't have to open the lid, and I don't have to get any fuel on my hand.

[@Krankie_V]

That's cool! I bet you could use a piece of fiberglass wick or stove door gasket as well. I'm not sure where you'd ever get this carbon felt stuff from. I've never heard of it before this video.

[@kikomsr]

brilliant idea :) thanks for the tip.i tried it and is very effective.

[@ColoradoCamper]

Thanks for watching, I'm glad you liked the idea!

[@dcordry]

Great modification!

[@ColoradoCamper]

Thank you. It's really nice to be able to prime an ice-cold Svea just as easily as during the summer.

[@frankdigiovanni4946]

Good job love it

[@ColoradoCamper]

Thanks for watching.

[@billbailey48]

Great ideas, my stove has a hand pump fits over the full cap? Does that eliminates the well preheat?

[@SheepDoggy68]

No it doesn’t! I’ve only ever use the pump to slightly raise the tank pressure so fuel will run out the jet when I crack the valve and down into the priming divit. Turn the valve off and light the fuel. As the fire dies down crack the valve again and see if it will run. If it will not the jet will add fuel to the priming process and you just turn the valve back off and continue the prime! Being slow on the valve will give you too much fire so pay attention! This continuous process continues until the stove is warm enough to run. There is no second or third prime and there is no lighting the stove once it’s ready everything is continuously moving forward until it runs! I usually start with minimal prime, burp out a bit more fuel and have it running before it’s time to burp out fuel a second time!

[@MrTangent]

So I subscribed. You have some great info. It appears there’s soot build-up with this modification but only on the bottom of the bell due to incomplete burn of the carbon in the fuel, and once the jets are lit it gets a complete combustion resulting in zero - or near zero - soot build-up. Is that a fair assessment? Reason I ask is twofold: 1. I dislike soot on my pots, and why I don’t use wood or Esbit generally and 2. Am considering this modification on my SVEA 123, once she gets here. Thank you for all you do. Much appreciated.

[@ColoradoCamper]

The burner bell will get sooty if you use white gas to prime the stove, like I did in this video. But you still won't get any soot on your pot as long as you get a nice blue flame once the stove is running. I like to keep my gear clean too, and for that reason, I usually prime my SVEA with alcohol so it burns nice and clean and soot-free. This mod works very well with alcohol.

[@MrTangent]

ColoradoCamper Awesome. I buy 190 proof Everclear in the 1.75 liter size for my alcohol stoves so I can just use it as I prefer Everclear as it’s multifunctional over methylated spirits/denatured alcohol/HEET. But yeah, really looking forward to switching to SVEA 123/liquid gas. Thank you once again.

[@LaurentGouzouAKALynx]

Absolutelly a wonderfull idea, I have an old Meva 2140 from Tchécoslovaquia very similar to the one you have and I'm going to make the same mod that's sure.

[@ColoradoCamper]

Thank you for watching, I hope you have success with your stove!

[@LaurentGouzouAKALynx]

ColoradoCamper it already works great but your mod is a great one to avoid spilling priming fuel and for winter time. Check I have a video on my channel

[@wanderingwade8877]

Where do you get carbon felt?

[@ColoradoCamper]

I bought it at Home Depot. It's sold in the plumbing section. It's called a flame protector by the brand Oatey. It's meant to be used for sweating pipe and soldering.

[@wanderingwade8877]

Thanks for answering back. I looked through the other comments (like I should have before asking) and found some good discussions on this. I have a Svea 123 I bought when I was in high school in the early '70's. I never did any maintenance on it and it still works like a champ. I do the straw technique just like you do. I really like your channel. Subscribed!

[@ColoradoCamper]

Thanks for the kind words and for subscribing! My dad's Svea 123 story is just like your's. He bought it when we was young, used it a ton, then it sat in a box for 20+ years in the attic. We found it a few years ago, and it lit right up just like it was brand new. They are such great stoves.

[@ronkierstead]

I love the straw technique for priming that you use, and I've been using for a couple of seasons now. I started with barrel of a Bic pen, but when it started to crack I substituted a short length of 1/4" copper plumbing pipe. Thanks for this preheat tip, it's on my things to do list to improve this fantastic stove.

[@ColoradoCamper]

Cheers Ron, that's a great idea. The copper pipe will last and long as the stove. I better do that, because I bet the white gas will degrade the plastic straw and it will crack at some point.

[@pmfilmsUK]

Brilliant 👍

[@martinadejaquiz2482]

i dunno CC about it being a good time on EB to look for a 123 stove. looks like to me EB is going nuts on selling stuff high with xmas 2 weeks away? i'll just keep watching and on through the new year and we'll see what happens? maybe starting about feb things will go back to norm?

[@MTMith]

What tin do you use to house the Svea, by the way? I've been trying to find something that will fit just right. In all honesty, I started a project a while ago to "recreate" the Sigg Tourist windscreen out of #10 cans. After several prototypes I ran out of #10 cans lol, so I haven't finished the idea. Not to mention I don't have a dremel, so the result was crude at best.

[@ColoradoCamper]

I just happened across a metal tin at a local thrift store one day and it happened to fit the Svea perfectly. I think it's meant for cookies or some kitchen related task. It originally had a decorative outside but I spray painted it white. This one looks about the right size since its listed dimensions would fit the Svea: www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SHORTBREAD-COOKIE-TIN-90S-/251772609412?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9ed12384

[@bobharris6712]

I have had my stove since the early 70s I found that a empty metal 1 pound coffee can works great for a container to protect your stove, the aluminum cup is used as a cap on top to cover it all

[@MrBoxer1200]

Their is a cap and pump kit makes lighting much easier.

[@chadwayne892]

good idea. think I'll try it.

[@ColoradoCamper]

I hope it works well for you, cheers.

[@jwagmo]

Hi! Really like your informative video. I struggle whit my Svea to get it work well. When I pre-heat my Svea, I use the fuel from the stove, just like you. I use chemically pure gasoline but my pre-heating goes much faster and more explosive than yours wich results in a second round, and that is really annoying. What cind of fuel do you use? // Jonas

[@ColoradoCamper]

Jonas Wagmo I use a clean version of gasoline called naphtha or white gas. But my preferred way to pre heat is to use alcohol or methylated spirits, because it doesn’t burn too fast and burns clean, so it doesn’t make the burner black and sooty

[@jwagmo]

ColoradoCamper . Thank you! I’ll try the alcohol and also try to find white gas.☀️☀️

[@S2Wiley]

I use fiberglass battery terminal "washers"....same thing as fiberglass rope, just little stamped donuts.

[@charlietango186]

The stove that you have there is in fact a Svea 123R just thought I'd let you know, as the throttle is slanting down, it is this that informs you of this, so if you turn it all the way to the left, you will get the jet needle pricker come up through the jet. I don't know if you was aware that you have the "R" stove, also the key is a different size. (just my opinion) good informative video as well.

[@clivenewton7609]

CharlieTango 1 , sorry this is a bit late, only just found the thread! However, Just to be clear the stove in this excellent video is , without question, a SVEA 123 and NOT the 123R as you suggest , how do I know this I hear you ask? I have just come in from my workshop (well shed really!) where I keep all my stoves and can confirm categorically that the stove with sloping control valve is a 123! Mine has the straight valve bought on Amazon. Hope that clears things up, Wikipedia also advises the same. Cheers, Clive from deepest Dorset

[@christopherwyndham-mellor7065]

Remember to take the key out!

[@martinadejaquiz2482]

CC, this is a nice mod to this stove. I don't have 1 yet, but I'm interested in this stove and also in the 8R, too. just as you know...more toys! share with you 1 thing I recently built from a YT video and I was very disappointed with..... it was a wood gas stove made from a new 1 quart paint can and an inner 20oz. pineapple can as the burn chamber. it worked very very poorly and was made correctly to the instructional video. the over-all size of the stove is too small, (Period). IMO, it was a waste of time. I made it because I thought the SS smaller "Solo Stove" looked neat on video, but the one I made (the homemade one) was just simply way too small for using for anything I would be interested in. as far as hiking, anything larger wouldn't be feesable to carry, IMO. I like it when you go car camping and have cooking fire pits already there (like your car camping video in Yellowstone). that's convenient and useable. as far as a 1 qt. wood gas stove I give that idea 2 thumbs down (respectfully).... just simply way too small and not useable enough. however, as far as alcohol stoves go.... your 1/2 capacity FF stove I use regularly! I love that 1/2 capacity version! super nice idea! I love it! so, thanks again, martina

[@ColoradoCamper]

+Martina Dejaquiz I also have interest in the 8R, and I always have an eye open when I go to thrift stores or garage sales. These old Optimus stoves have a reputation for being extremely reliable and built to last. I have experimented with wood gas stoves as well, even the quart sized one you mention. I have never used it for cooking because I think alcohol stoves work better in just about every category. The only time I have taken my quart stove out was when there was a fire ban preventing open campfires. It was nice to have a fire just for the ambiance. I will also take it when I want to have a fire but I plan on camping somewhere that is seldom visited. I don't like to build new campfire rings, I prefer to leave as little trace as possible. If a fire ring already exists then I will use it, but if it doesn't I can use the stove to have a LNT fire. Overall, I have found the quart size wood gas stove I built to be very problematic in windy conditions. So I would never want to rely on it to cook my meals. Like you said, a little alcohol stove is lighter, smaller, and much more convenient to use for cooking. I have built a gallon size wood gas stove that would be much better for cooking, but it's huge and there is no way I am going to carry it with me.

[@martinadejaquiz2482]

I'm not sure that the little 1qt paint can wouldn't better serve as a small hobo stove with a raised floor than as a wood gas stove, but then it's still just so tiny, either way. I was watching shugemery's channel and saw him with a "Brasslite" brand alcohol stove model# "Turbo I-D". I looked on Brasslite's website and saw that they have the old style on a close-out clearance sale for $15 + free shipping. so, I bought one. with the vent holes fully closed, it really simmered for a whopping 90 minutes (under perfect conditions). 90 mins true, I promise. if not in a hurry, it sure will warm canned food in it's original can w/o burning on the bottom. me too...I keep my eyes open at garage sales for the optimus stoves, too. I think I've turned into a, "Stovie"! actually, I think I've been one for years...Haha! thx, martina

[@ColoradoCamper]

+Martina Dejaquiz That's a great deal for the Brasslite stove. I have never used them, but I think they would be excellent stoves for cooking or warming food because they have great adjustability. Great find!

[@jayk3784]

상향식저소음 연소캡이 잇써요

[@ChrisLichowicz]

I just use hand sanitizer or fuel paste. That is a good hack though.

[@B2Hives]

These stoves have been used for decades by me and longer by others in real life outdoor locations, no "suburbanite mods" needed or required at any temp or altitude..

[@ColoradoCamper]

Oooooooo, a tough guy. I never said this mod was required, I said it makes the process easier. Maybe you should pay more attention. That said, try priming the stove with denatured alcohol in below zero temperatures and let me know how it goes. It shouldn't be a problem for a real, tough, outdoorsmen such as yourself. I'm sure you practically live outside. "Real life outdoor locations," "suburbanite mods," hahaha, that's priceless.

[@sunsail]

TUCK FRUMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@AdventuresofGraywolf]

dipshit

[@charlietango186]

I apoligize, I have them round the wrong way, that is in fact the Svea 123 that you are showing here, Sorry, groval, groval.

[@ColoradoCamper]

+CharlieTango 1 Haha, no problem mate. Thanks for watching.

[@neiljennings1556]

just use hand sanitizer gel